Europe 2022

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Joined
Jan 9, 2021
Messages
1,136
Location
Boston/Hong Kong
I have not been to Europe since 2019. Due to the pandemic cancelling concerts, I really had no work over there until this summer, so naturally, I was excited.
Interestingly enough, I had very little interest in trains in 2019. I certainly enjoyed a good train ride, and definitely knew that Europe and Asia were superior, but more or less was uninterested in learning more. This of course changed when I reinvigorated my interest during the pandemic.

Those who know my posts on the forum know that I am a pretty big advocate for Amtrak. Though I'm keenly aware of its issues, I stood by the belief that the NEC provides reasonably good service, making it a reliable and reasonable transportation option.

Now, I am not so sure.
In a nutshell, European trains this time around were eye-opening, and my usual statement of "NEC provides roughly comparable service," is a statement I no longer believe. Without an informed look and experience of different European systems, its impossible to fathom just how useful trains are, and can be.

Italy
Its hard not to love Italy. After my concert in Casole D'Elsa, I spent the night closer to Siena, and took a train from there.
Italy has probably the most polarized rail system. Some trains are the best product in Europe, and could compete with Asia, while other trains are reminiscent of the MBTA Purple Line.
Siena has a small, inconveniently located, station (given the location and architecture of Siena, it can't be helped). The tracks are not electrified, so only diesel power can access it. The ride to Florence is long, slow, and rather uncomfortable due to the many curves.
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After arriving to Florence, I was hoping to catch my Nightjet train to Vienna. Unfortunately however, my coach aboard the Nightjet was involved in a derailment and therefore I lost my sleeper. At this point, I opted to take a day-train to Munich, and forego my commitments in Vienna (which were not professional related). There is a Eurocity day train connecting Munich and Bologna run by OBB which I decided to take.

To get to Bologna, I decided to experience the Frecciarossa, which I had not taken since 2019. This train never fails to deliver. The service was perfect and the train and tracks it ran on were very impressive. My 45 minute ride was too short! Unfortunately, I failed to research Bologna before I arrived, and was very confused when I stepped out in to the subterranean station. It took me a solid 10 minutes before I realized how to get to the above-ground station. Waiting to purchase my ticket to Germany almost made me miss my train, as I had spent too much time trying to find the ticket office.

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Eurocity is a really interesting initiative, and probably compares best to NEC/LD day trains in America. The train rides are long between the endpoints, and the goal seems to be to connect as many cities and countries as possible. That said, the standards for comfort, food service, and cleanliness are quite high (mandated as I understand it), and therefore, the train is quite enjoyable despite the long duration of the journey. I was particularly impressed by the dining car, which was a really enjoyable place to hang out, and had very decent food. That said, it was highly unfortunate that WiFi has yet to be installed on these trains. Of course, the journey itself was beautiful, as after Verona, the train traveled through the Italian and Austrian alps.
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Germany
DB is a well oiled machine, and it makes me chuckle every time I hear someone complain about how bad it is. When I walked into Munich HBF after my overnight stay at a hotel across the street, I marvelled as just how many people rely on DB. Anyone who still says that trains are outdated tech, and that nobody uses them truly has their head in the sand. Though this station doesn't even see the numbers that Penn Station sees, it has services far beyond that of Penn. I got a first class ticket to Stuttgart, so I got to experience the DB lounge, which was entirely complimentary. The food and coffee was definitely better than the Moynihan lounge, though the service was not.
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My experience on the ICE was excellent. Though the tracks between Munich and Stuttgart are quite slow (honestly, not much faster than an Acela), the train journey was enjoyable. Perhaps it was luck of the draw, but my meal aboard the train was the best of all trains I took in Europe. I ordered the vegan pasta salad, and everything was tasty, fresh, and well presented. It definitely was unexpected, and was a truly pleasant surprise.

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Regional S-Bahn trains in Germany are a true marvel, and I wish that America would take notice. Stuttgart and Boston have a lot of similarities, especially in their regional rail system potential. If Boston were to commit to electrification, procure true EMU, and get half-hourly service on all lines, we would have the best rail system in the country (but at this point, Ill settle for the Orange Line not catching on fire). In this case, I took the S-1 to Herrenberg. The train was standing room only for about 2 stops, but by Herrenberg, there were no more than a dozen people per car.
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Another plus of Germany was seeing the progress on Stuttgart 21 (probably needs to be renamed). I was last there in 2019, and the old station was pretty much still in full use. Now, construction is in full swing. There is essentially no more terminal or concourse with the exception of the tracks and platforms. The western portion has a convenient exit to the street, but the eastern portion has a long walkway to make it to the the front of the original station building, which is abandoned, though still retaining its facade, which I think will be integrated into the new station complex.
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France and the TGV
This was my first time aboard the TGV. I had taken some SNCF regional services in the past, but it was no comparison or even reference for what I was about to experience. I have watched Simply Railway's reviews of the TGV and I was expecting sub-par train service. I think that Thibault is overly critical of his home country system (aren't we all).

The TGV duplex journey between Stuttgart and Paris was the best train journey I have ever experienced. The train was crazy fast (the fastest speed I recorded 320kph and it held speeds of 300kph steadily for much of the time after Strasbourg) and the ride quality was unparralelled to anything I've experienced. I only had a coffee and croissant aboard the train, so I can't speak much about the food and service other than a decent espresso and friendly staff. We departed about 2 minutes late from Stuttgart (I took the 6:52am train) but arrived early to the Gare de L'est.

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The highlight of my entire time in Europe however (concerts included), was seeing the Gare du Nord for the first time. It did not disappoint. This is now my favorite train station in the world. The mix of functionality, beauty, and sheer awe inspiring size does it for me. The station is a superb triumph of modern engineering, and proof that trains have a place in the 21st century and beyond. Furthermore, it is a beautiful integration of past, present and future.

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I think its safe to say the only thing that can top my European experience is Asia.
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Italy
Its hard not to love Italy. After my concert in Casole D'Elsa, I spent the night closer to Siena, and took a train from there.
Italy has probably the most polarized rail system. Some trains are the best product in Europe, and could compete with Asia, while other trains are reminiscent of the MBTA Purple Line.
Siena has a small, inconveniently located, station (given the location and architecture of Siena, it can't be helped). The tracks are not electrified, so only diesel power can access it. The ride to Florence is long, slow, and rather uncomfortable due to the many curves.

While in Siena, did you take the amazing series of escalators to get from the train station up to the main town? I did so in 2018 and spent the night in a small hotel before taking two local (and I do mean local) buses to Montalcino, where I spent five blissful days wandering the town and enjoying the restaurants and incomparable Brunellos. When I left, I took a taxi down the hill to the nearest train station at Buonconvento for the local train ride back to Siena and from there, the same train you took to Florence. The route was indeed slow and curvy, but the scenery lovely, as I recall. And it turned out that the young guy sitting across the aisle from me had just graduated from my alma mater, Queen's University in Kingston, Ontario. We had lots to chat about given the 54 years that separated our graduations. This is just one example of why train travel is so rewarding, no matter where you are in the world.
 
Big fan of your photography!
Thank you! I guess the saying is true; the best camera is the one you have on you. In this case, that was an iPhone 11.

@GAT
I can't seem to quote your post.
No, I did not take the escalator up to Siena. I was staying a few km outside the city, so I ended up catching a ride to the station.
I'm in complete agreement; rail travel stories are always the best.
 
Though this station doesn't even see the numbers that Penn Station sees
München Hbf has about 450,000 daily passengers (including about 150,000 on S-Bahn), seems to me that it's much more than Penn Station.
Though the tracks between Munich and Stuttgart are quite slow (honestly, not much faster than an Acela)
Even slower than an Acela, speed ranges between 110 and 160 kph there, but the new 250 kph high-speed line between Stuttgart and Ulm is opening at the end of this year (albeit first only at 160 kph, they didn't have enough time to proof-test the high-speed part)
I have watched Simply Railway's reviews of the TGV and I was expecting sub-par train service. I think that Thibault is overly critical of his home country system (aren't we all).
I do agree with him on that one, SNCF treats high-speed rail like a commercial airline would: single door per car, slow awful boarding process (not in use in Germany, good for you), packed bi-level trains with almost no space for luggages, bad food options (standing room only, and food served in its own plastic package!). Of course they're fast, but speed is not everything, and I enjoy travelling on ICE much more than on TGV (so when travelling between France and Germany, I tend to pick ICE services over TGV services, they're equally as fast, and much more enjoyable)
 
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München Hbf has about 450,000 daily passengers (including about 150,000 on S-Bahn), seems to me that it's much more than Penn Station.
Check your facts. Penn stations saw about 650k passengers per day in 2019. There are some sources that say 500k (Amtrak Fiscal Year 2019 fact sheet), but either way, its busier.

Even slower than an Acela, speed ranges between 110 and 160 kph there, but the new 250 kph high-speed line between Stuttgart and Ulm is opening at the end of this year (albeit first only at 160 kph, they didn't have enough time to proof-test the high-speed part)
Actually, it depends how you define speeds. The average speed of the tracks between Munchen and Stuttgart is faster than the average speed of tracks between NYP and BOS.

I do agree with him on that one, SNCF treats high-speed rail like a commercial airline would: single door per car, slow awful boarding process (not in use in Germany, good for you), packed bi-level trains with almost no space for luggages, bad food options (standing room only, and food served in its own plastic package!). Of course they're fast, but speed is not everything, and I enjoy travelling on ICE much more than on TGV (so when travelling between France and Germany, I tend to pick ICE services over TGV services, they're equally as fast, and much more enjoyable)
That fine. I didn't try the food, so I can't really comment. The coffee is far superior to anything you would see on an airline, and rougly comparable to what I had on the ICE (in terms of quality and taste. DB did use real espresso mugs).
I agree with you that onboard service is much better on the ICE. But the ride quality and speed do indeed matter to me. Its a matter of opinion I guess.
 
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Check your facts. Penn stations saw about 650k passengers per day in 2019. There are some sources that say 500k (Amtrak Fiscal Year 2019 fact sheet), but either way, its busier.
Thanks, I had a much lower figure in mind for NYP :)

Actually, it depends how you define speeds. The average speed of the tracks between Munchen and Stuttgart is faster than the average speed of tracks between NYP and BOS.
Actually no, they're even, both with an average 100 kph speed on their respective routes.

I agree with you that onboard service is much better on the ICE. But the ride quality and speed do indeed matter to me. Its a matter of opinion I guess.
Speed is the same between ICE and TGV on this route, but you're right the ICE ride is more "bumpy" ^^
 
I looked up some running times for 1970/71 for Munich > Stuttgart. F27, the Rheinblitz, took 2:12. TEE11, the Rembrandt, covered this 242 km segment in 2:15. D906, the heavy Dalmatia Express, was allowed 2:50. D6, another heavy train, complete with extra capacity and a dining car across the daylight portion of its trip, the (real) Orient Express, took 2:52.

I rode this line in August 1971 and it was the only time in my life that I've been on a passenger train that had a helper added for the toughest part of the trip. (I believe between Geislingen and Ulm). There's a 2.4% grade in there.

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