Ghost train whistles in the desert...

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caravanman

Engineer
Joined
Mar 22, 2004
Messages
5,014
Location
Nottingham, England.
Arriving at Mr Greatcats house in Flagstaff, Arizona, I hoped we would be able to get along... I had no idea of him, save from his posts and a few pm messages arranging the

visit. I was early, and as I waited outside his house a guy drove up and waved. I waved back and got up to greet him... turned out he was just a friendly neighbour! Fortunately, Mr. Greatcats drove up immediately after, so I did not get too confused.

Mr. Greatcats has asked me not to use his name and address, in order to avoid too many B and B visitors, so I will call him Mr G. from now on...

Introductions over, we enter the house, and I am introduced to two great cats, Boris and Headly, and get the background to their names and where they came from.

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We have a talk about things to see in the area, and soon Mr G rustles up a very nice dinner in the time it would take me to just make a snack!

We go out in the evening and meet some friends, have a look at the arts and crafts style church, and hear a little choir practice. We end the evening with a nice glass of beer in the company of one of Mr G’s friends from the choir.

Friday.

A very substantial cooked breakfast, and we head off to visit one of the nearby sites, Walnut Canyon. A quite amazing place, very steep gorge, apparently populated around 900 years ago by folk displaced by the eruption of the Sunset Crater volcano. The cliffs have natural rock overhangs, which were put to use as shelters, with extra stones arranged to build rooms. A verdant, quiet, very special atmosphere here... a good place to relax and draw breath. Breath needed in abundance for the steep steps back up to the rim!

Sadly, my camera malfunctioned and I don’t have any pics from Walnut. (What’s that you say..? Thank goodness for that?)

Next port of call was Sunset Crater, and we decided to grab a sandwich to take with us. I nearly caused a traffic faux pas when I spotted a place to get a new camera card as Mr. G was turning the vehicle in another direction, he coped well and I was able to get a new card for a very low price, then we bought our lunches and headed off into the Sunset...

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Following a nice picnic lunch we took a tour of the park. Mr G is a volunteer guide here, so I was in good hands. Again, quite an astonishing spectacle, sharp clinker type lava had erupted from side fissures and spread out to the surrounding area. The volcano itself is a cinder cone type... they are a one-off event, thankfully!

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It was surprising to find that vegetation was already starting to soften some of the view, 900 years is such a short time to turn red hot sterile cinders into a growing medium.

Some trees had evolved twisted trunks, helping to draw and conserve the meagre water available to them.

Mr G showed me his office, a rather wonderful shady tree and a nice fallen tree trunk to sit upon amidst peace and nature, where he answers questions and gives out info in his official park interpreter capacity

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Surprising to discover that there had been some benefit to the local primitive agriculture... in distant parts where ash cinders were just a few inches deep, the covering helped to minimise moisture loss. Some parts have lava around 100 ft. thick.

Wupatki Park.

The third of our visits for the day, and a collection of well preserved dwelling houses of around 900 years of age, on several different sites.

One large building dramatic in its location, atop a high rock. It must have been visible for many miles around. Several beside shallow crevices, either good for growing food in a sheltered spot, or maybe a source of rain water. Early dwellers had to rely mostly on rainwater collecting, no rivers were near.

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The visitor centre had good information and exhibits, although it was hard to see the good in creating a Wupatki “national monument” and then forcing the remaining natives to move away from it for the tourists benefit! Strange times in the early 20th century... nice that everything is so fair to minorities today... Hmmm.

A drive back to the house and make a fuss of the pusses, and another great meal appears in no time. A glass or two of wine with the meal and I was soon nodding off in front of the Alaskan travel video.

Saturday

We start our day with breakfast at a nearby golf club, where I have my first ever burrito, a breakfast burrito stuffed with meat, cheese, beans and tasty treats... So filling, I could not quite finish it. Nice to look out on the green lawns while eating.

Grand Canyon Day!

We set off northwards and in light traffic soon arrive at the Grand Canyon. Mr G suggests the lesser used east entranceway to the park, and it is a super drive, twisting up and up to the park itself.

Our first viewpoint is by the faux tower, designed by Mary Colter, of the Fred Harvey company, to resemble an unfinished native tower dwelling. Inside are many painted murals, and one can climb the tower. I ascended to the second floor, and got out onto the flat roof for some excellent views.

As mentioned before, my landscape photos never do justice to what I am seeing, but I keep trying to capture the full majesty of the spectacle. Although my shots can look hazy, or washed out, when seen in reality these views are astounding.

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Mr G points out the flora and explains the way different plants and trees grow in different micro climates, north or south facing locations. He describes the many different rock layers, and their ages, although the only one I remember was called Kaibab Limestone...

(sorry Mr G!).

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We visit several viewpoints on the south rim, and Mr G points out the Bright Angel trail deep down in the canyon bottom... we can just see ant like figures moving along it. I am more than impressed that Mr G has just a fortnight ago descended from the north rim to the lodge below, slept, then and climbed back up the south rim trail!

“Lets have a look from a fire watch tower” Mr G suggests, “You will get a better idea of the overall layout from up there...”

So shortly after, I am suffering fearfully, going no higher than the 3rd ladder, while Mr G climbs happily to the top... Ok, so you win all round on both fitness and bravado!

A scared Eddy, or a scaredy cat!

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Spot Mr g fire spotting!

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A small snack at the main visitor and train depot, and we take a free bus out along the rim to Hermits Rest, alighting in between to include a short walk, and take many more photos. Almost everywhere we have been over the last few days we have been followed by a ghostly train whistle, an old fashioned steam blast. Very funny to see folk looking around in vain for the railroad in the middle of nowhere... Mr G has an amusing and very realistic “ring tone” on his phone!

We decide to head back before dark, and catch sight of several Elk in amongst the trees.

A meal out tonight, we enjoy a very tasty Greek dinner, and I arrive back at the house a very satisfied, very happy camper!

I leave important things to the last minute, and our attempts to book my next ticket online failed due to my card not working, and the national Amtrak booking system crashed on Sunday... a good lesson to learn, don’t put off doing important things!

Sunday,

Another excellent sleep, an excellent cooked breakfast, and it is soon time to depart for Las Vegas.

I more than enjoyed my visit, I found Mr G to be a fund of amusing stories, a kind and intelligent host, and although I am leaving this important thing to last again, I hope he will look on me as a friend now, as well as a fellow train fan.

The car was returned on time to Las Vegas, with 3106 miles driven. I will return here again to enjoy the South West, if Dame Fortune permits.

Next, a few days in Las Vegas again, then on to the gathering...

Cheers,

Ed.

More pics :https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152762671154120.1073741850.682004119&type=1&l=d366776450
 
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Wonderful stuff Eddie and Great Photos! Pretty good Host and Tour Guide too!

When he comes to England you can take him to the "good places" too!

Hope Vegas is fun, have you talked with GG-1? ( the other Eric!)
 
Invitation to visit my humble abode already issued.

Relaxing in Vegas for a few days, a sort of "time out" after driving on the wrong side of the road for 17 days!

Looking forward to meeting up with all attendees at the gathering.

Cheers,

Ed. :cool:
 
Sounds like a great trip. We enjoy those places very much. Did you see the "blow hole' at Wupatki? It was hot the day we were there and this hole in the ground had nice, cool air (60ish) shooting out of the ground.

Dan
 
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