Rocky Mountaineer and Pacific Northwest island hopping

[thully]

After visiting the Pacific Northwest on last year’s Canadian-Empire Builder loop trip, I’m back again! This time, I’m going to take the Rocky Mountaineer from Vancouver to Banff - but first, I‘m doing some island hopping in the Pacific Northwest.

The trip began last Saturday, when I flew Delta nonstop from Detroit to Seattle, on my way to the San Juan Islands. The flight was fine, aside from being delayed by about an hour and my checked bag being put on the wrong carousel, which caused me to get a little frantic since the last ferry out of Anacortes was at 8:20, and I was meeting some people to go up and stay with them. However, they were stuck in traffic driving up from California, and in the end I got my bag with time to spare, and we easily made the 8:20pm ferry to Friday Harbor. The ferry was quite large, caring many cars and passengers, though I’d say the BC Ferries seemed nicer.

For the next few days, I stayed on their boat in Friday Harbor. I first met them on the Canadian last year when they were part of a tour group and kept in touch, also meeting up in San Diego after the Gathering. Really got to know them on the train trip and was a bit sad to depart in Vancouver, so it was nice to get to see them for longer. On the Rocky Mountaineer, I am actually doing a similar tour offered by the same company as part of the University of Michigan Alumni Association, in part because of how much fun I had with people from that group (and how it sometimes gets boring doing a trip alone).

The second day I was with them, we took the ferry to Lopez Island and back to see some friends of theirs. That was fairly uneventful, though unbeknownst to us they had cancelled the return ferry we were going to take (the last of the night from Lopez to Friday Harbor). We went about our business and returned to the ferry terminal to find out the ferry had been cancelled, un-cancelled, and now delayed by an hour. Probably good we didn’t find out about the cancellation until after the un-cancellation. In any case, it seems like if they have to cancel a ferry, they should try to never cancel the last one of the night if at all humanly possible. Others in my group agreed, and had their own rants about the ferries (one found herself facing the “dreaded cone” while we were there and not being let on the ferry, and also had her own ideas on how to reorganize the ferries). As a transit nerd, this kind of stuff was kind of interesting - the Anacortes/San Juan Island schedule is a confusing mess, and it definitely would make sense to streamline it in some way…

 

[thully]

There are a few ways to get from the San Juan Islands to Vancouver. I had considered taking the ferry to the mainland, doing bus/Uber/cab to Mount Vernon, and catching the Cascades (or a bus, though I’d far prefer Amtrak) to Vancouver. Another would be taking the ferry to Sidney, BC, and then making your way over to Swartz Bay by whatever means for the ferry (and then the same from Tswwassen), but that is currently suspended until 2030 (!). Wouldn’t be surprised if they pulled a Sunset East with that one. Yet another would be taking the new Kenmore Air flight on a Cessna to YYJ (also in Sidney) and transferring to Vancouver via similar means (or perhaps another flight) - which I had initially ruled out due to the website stating that baggage was limited to TSA carry-on size. Though after calling, I found that rule actually only applies when boarding at YYJ - which left that open.

However, my host offered to take me on the boat to Victoria and dock the boat for the night there. I couldn’t pass that up - as much as I did want to ride the Cascades, crossing into Canada by private boat would be a new and interesting experience, and I would get to stay with them longer. Plus I wouldn’t have to leave super-early or arrive super-late, and once in Victoria I could take the BC Ferries Connector from the bus station a couple blocks from Victoria Harbour straight to my Vancouver hotel. That was definitely an interesting experience - the weirdest part about it was at Canadian customs, all they had to do is dock, pick up a customs phone, and call in the boat and passport information. While there, I saw the Victoria Clipper I had taken last year, as well as several seaplanes (which again tempted me to book a trip on one). There was no physical interaction with a customs officer. We checked out the Fairmont Empress for a bit, though ultimately didn’t have a ton of time in Victoria - though it was still fun to be back after my short visit last year.

 

[thully]

This morning, after waking up, eating, and gathering my belongings, I set off to Vancouver using the BC Ferries Connector. I had considered using that last year, but the first run was just too late as I wanted to maximize my time in Victoria. This time, the timing of one of the runs worked really well for my schedule, leaving at 9:45 (not too early, but not too late), and arriving at 1:45 (not too much before my hotel’s 3pm checkin, increasing the likelihood I could get right into my room). Plus, it picked up a couple blocks from Victoria Harbour and dropped off right at my hotel. While a seaplane would have been nice, it cost nearly 3 times as much and the time saved would have just been sitting around Victoria after my friends left or sitting in Vancouver waiting to check in. Plus, for the same price I could do a seaplane tour 3 times as long tomorrow.

While it seemed tempting to ride one of those BC Transit double-decker buses, that would mean a bunch of transfers with my luggage. Plus, they still will only accept exact change for fares, which would require me getting Canadian cash from an ATM and then breaking the bills, unless I found a place that sold single-ride passes. While mobile payment is supposed to come soon (they say “this summer”), it’s not soon enough for me - and this summer is already well underway.

The bus was waiting when I made it to the station, and to my surprise they were actually weighing luggage for compliance with the 50lb limit. Having had a last-minute scramble on the ferry last year to get my bag from a couple pounds over down to 50, I was a bit nervous even though Delta did accept the bag. In the end, it was 48.5, so I was good. Got on the bus, and found myself really hot until they turned on the bus and started moving. The bus was packed - it actually sold out soon after I bought the ticket. Though Amtrak was still selling tickets for it (it is offered as a Thruway bus) - glad I bought direct, as I suspect buying from Amtrak would mean you get bumped.

The bus ride went fairly well, and the bus driver made some funny comments that reminded me of goofy Amtrak (and Thruway bus driver) PA announcements past. As we pulled into the ferry terminal, we went into the secret gate 99 for buses and went into the dark underbelly of the ferry terminal and ultimately the ferry itself (as narrated by our driver). We all had to get off the bus and onto the passenger deck, returning to the bus once we approached Tsawwassen. The ferry ride was nice, though on the deck I quickly went from hot (when we were still) to cold (when we were moving). Ate a little something, and then boarded the bus for the ride back, which was uneventful aside from some kids horsing around, dropping me at the hotel right around 2 (a little late, though the ferry was a little late).

 

[thully]

Once in Vancouver, I took some time to rest before our tour group met up, and get dinner and a few things. Also, I called Harbour Air about the seaplane tour, and was able to book what they call the Mail Run (Vancouver to Maple Bay via Salt Spring Island) tomorrow afternoon (after our morning tour of Vancouver) though I will miss out on the Salt Spring Island stopover which would involve twice as much time.

Got together with the tour group at 7pm and introduced ourselves to each other. On the way there, I ran into the trip host for Michigan, who had in fact been on the same BC Ferries Connector bus and ferry as me. There was a bit of lively banter about football - about 2/3 of the group were Michigan, with most of the rest Mississippi State and one lone Wisconsin couple. Most of the group was there, though a few were doing other things and some weren’t arriving until tomorrow (guessing there may be an airline snafu explaining that). The people doing a pre-tour in Victoria were a bit late, owing to a cancelled 2pm ferry and a late 3pm ferry.

We went over the schedule for the next few days and some administrative details as to how the Rocky Mountaineer operates. First of all, they will knock on our doors to collect checked bags for the Rocky Mountaineer at 5:30am the day of departure. Thats pretty darned early! Secondly, the train will split in Kamloops, with half going to Jasper and half going to Banff (much like the Lake Shore Limited and Empire Builder). Finally, they do meals in two sittings, with people getting the first sitting the first day getting the second the second (and vice versa).

 

[Palmland]

Good report, thanks. That is certainly a beautiful part of the U.S.and Canada. We’ve been putting off for too long a trip back to the NW as we now have a nephew who lives on Salt Spring Island. Rocky Mountaineer is definitely a bucket list item for us. I didn’t realize they actually did switching in Kamloops.

 

[jiml]

I didn’t realize they actually did switching in Kamloops.

There used to be two separate trains on alternating days IIRC. Like most things these days, the split is likely about saving money or staff situation. Kamloops is a crew change point anyway (and the base for the RM).

 

[railiner]

We went over the schedule for the next few days and some administrative details as to how the Rocky Mountaineer operates. First of all, they will knock on our doors to collect checked bags for the Rocky Mountaineer at 5:30am the day of departure. Thats pretty darned early! Secondly, the train will split in Kamloops, with half going to Jasper and half going to Banff (much like the Lake Shore Limited and Empire Builder). Finally, they do meals in two sittings, with people getting the first sitting the first day getting the second the second (and vice versa).

Great report, thanks for taking us along!

I have a question about the meal sittings...can you choose which of the two days you have first seating? And...were you aware of them "running out" of any particular items on the menu?

 

[zephyr17]

Really good report. A couple of thoughts. Washington State Ferries are fun to ride, but do have the ambience of a floating DMV. One should never depend on the last ferry, WSF obeys Murphy's Law much of the time and if there is going to be a mechanical issue, it seems like it's going to be for that last run. Most runs only have one boat.

I think the analogy to the Sunset East is a good one for the Anacortes-Sidney, BC run. While it was always full, much of the traffic was to the San Juans, not Sidney. Much like Amtrak, WSF is short of equipment, it old and life expired (see "never depend on the last ferry", above) and tardy in getting new ordered, with funding, price, vendor issues. Finally, WSF always seemed ambivalent and unenthusiastic about the BC service, not unlike Amtrak and LDs. For those in the Seattle Metro wanting to take their cars to Victoria/Vancouver Island, staying on Interstate 5 and going Tsawassen and taking BC Ferries instead of Anacortes and WSF was always a good alternative. Much more frequent than the once daily WSF boat to Sidney and more reliable, though less scenic. It being the only alternative other that Port Angeles now isn't a big deal for those on the mainland.

Luggage out at 5:30 am is the final nail in the coffin for me as far as any desire to take the Rocky Mountaineer. I was not disposed to take it anyway due to the cost, but paying that sort of money to get rousted out at the crack of dawn really kills it for me. With that said, I am anxiously awaiting your report on it.

 

[thully]

As our trip on the Rocky Mountaineer doesn’t depart until tomorrow, we had today to explore Vancouver a bit. In the morning, our tour group took a bus tour of Vancouver, which I joined. Our driver showed us the various sights, highlights, and lowlights of Vancouver, and we stopped briefly to take a group picture and and explore the totem poles as well as at Prospect Point Lookout, both places I hadn’t been last year. After that, we made our way to Granville Island, where we got lunch.

While the group was given until 2:45pm to explore Granville Island, I decided to depart early after a brief lunch to do a seaplane tour with Harbour Air. Got there right around the suggested arrival time of 2pm for my 2:40 flight to begin the Mail Run tour, though I probably would have been good 20 or even 30 minutes later (I suspect the 40min is mostly for people checking bags or if a big line forms at the checkin counter, as there isn’t security).

Got on the plane, and we took the 25 minute-ish flight to Salt Spring Island. The plane was tiny, and it was really neat to see the scenery we were passing (unlike on large planes) and take off and land in the water. After landing at Salt Spring, I had to get on another, even smaller aircraft to go to Maple Bay. That flight was more like 10 minutes, and we landed in Maple Bay with 20 minutes or so on the ground before returning.

On the way back, the views seemed even more spectacular, as I could see the areas we were taking off and landing from a bit better from my vantage point. Also, when flying from Maple Bay to Salt Spring, I got to sit in the front seat next to the pilot and listen to air traffic control on headphones. Back in Salt Spring, we again switched to the larger seaplane, with the one from Maple Bay continuing to YVR airport. That would be an interesting way to connect to a flight, though the SkyTrain would be far cheaper…

Once we landed, I decided to do another thing I had missed last time - ride the SeaBus. The signs at the seaplane terminal elevator showed SeaBus the next level up, so I went up there. Unfortunately, there was no signage for the SeaBus after that, and I had to walk 10-15 minutes to Waterfront station to catch it. Had almost exactly enough time to do a roundtrip and get back in time for a Michigan group gathering, so I did that. The SeaBus basically lived up to its name - it functioned like a bus as far as payment, frequency, and being connected to the main transit hub, It was a neat little ride, and I checked off another thing on my Vancouver to-do list. Feel like I’ve accomplished most of that, save for taking the Cascades between Seattle and Vancouver.

Went back to the hotel and the group gathering (where I actually talked with the tour group leader about my experience on the Canadian, which they had done many times), then returned to my room to prepare for the early wake up for the Rocky Mountaineer. Found they had left my bag tags for checked luggage, including one that said “Coast Hotel”, which I guess is where they’re sending me in Kamloops. The 5:30am bag check seems like a strong candidate for least favorite thing about this trip - it’s almost as bad as the inbound Texas Eagle/Sunset Limited at LAX, though at least the experience should be well above that (particularly compared to the flex-dining/no SSL Eaglette).

 

[MccfamschoolMom]

The 5:30am bag check seems like a strong candidate for least favorite thing about this trip

That actually wouldn't be a deal-breaker for the hubby and me (if we were ever to take the Rocky Mountaineer), as he keeps "farmer's hours" and routinely wakes up at 4AM or earlier. (This morning, for example, was 3:30AM for him/4:30AM for me.)

 

[Bob Dylan]

After visiting the Pacific Northwest on last year’s Canadian-Empire Builder loop trip, I’m back again! This time, I’m going to take the Rocky Mountaineer from Vancouver to Banff - but first, I‘m doing some island hopping in the Pacific Northwest.

The trip began last Saturday, when I flew Delta nonstop from Detroit to Seattle, on my way to the San Juan Islands. The flight was fine, aside from being delayed by about an hour and my checked bag being put on the wrong carousel, which caused me to get a little frantic since the last ferry out of Anacortes was at 8:20, and I was meeting some people to go up and stay with them. However, they were stuck in traffic driving up from California, and in the end I got my bag with time to spare, and we easily made the 8:20pm ferry to Friday Harbor. The ferry was quite large, caring many cars and passengers, though I’d say the BC Ferries seemed nicer.

For the next few days, I stayed on their boat in Friday Harbor. I first met them on the Canadian last year when they were part of a tour group and kept in touch, also meeting up in San Diego after the Gathering. Really got to know them on the train trip and was a bit sad to depart in Vancouver, so it was nice to get to see them for longer. On the Rocky Mountaineer, I am actually doing a similar tour offered by the same company as part of the University of Michigan Alumni Association, in part because of how much fun I had with people from that group (and how it sometimes gets boring doing a trip alone).

The second day I was with them, we took the ferry to Lopez Island and back to see some friends of theirs. That was fairly uneventful, though unbeknownst to us they had cancelled the return ferry we were going to take (the last of the night from Lopez to Friday Harbor). We went about our business and returned to the ferry terminal to find out the ferry had been cancelled, un-cancelled, and now delayed by an hour. Probably good we didn’t find out about the cancellation until after the un-cancellation. In any case, it seems like if they have to cancel a ferry, they should try to never cancel the last one of the night if at all humanly possible. Others in my group agreed, and had their own rants about the ferries (one found herself facing the “dreaded cone” while we were there and not being let on the ferry, and also had her own ideas on how to reorganize the ferries). As a transit nerd, this kind of stuff was kind of interesting - the Anacortes/San Juan Island schedule is a confusing mess, and it definitely would make sense to streamline it in some way…

Brings back Great Memories of my trips to visit friends on Lopez Islamd and @ Friday Harbor.

 

[tgstubbs1]

The 5:30am bag check seems like a strong candidate for least favorite thing about this trip - it’s almost as bad as the inbound Texas Eagle/Sunset Limited at LAX, though at least the experience should be well above that (particularly compared to the flex-dining/no SSL Eaglette).

I'm in Mountain time, so 5:30 would be 6:30. I might be up early anyway from the excitement.
It would be darker and colder in the winter but summer mornings don't bother me.

 

[thully]

Today was finally the day to depart on the Rocky Mountaineer. I woke up shortly after 5, packed all my remaining items, and set the bag out to be collected. Fortunately, as I found out from the host the previous day, I didn’t need to wait for them - they could retrieve the bag without me opening the door. That’s exactly what happened, as they ended up collecting the bag while I was in the shower. Went down to breakfast at the hotel around 6, and ate/drank coffee until it was time to board our bus to the Rocky Mountaineer station at 6:45am.

Arrived at the Rocky Mountaineer station, and found the place was quite busy, with a sense of anticipation of the journey ahead looming in the air that was amplified by the music. There was coffee, tea, and water available, and signs pointing people to coaches numbered JAxx (for Jasper) and CBxx (for Banff). Not sure what the C stands for - perhaps a remnant of past service to Calgary?

I boarded in my GoldLeaf coach and found my assigned seat (fortunately without anyone next to me), and soon we were off. After departing the Rocky Mountaineer station, I found I had been assigned the first seating for both breakfast and lunch, and made my way to the dining car for second breakfast (which made me feel like a hobbit). Sat with a couple from the UK who were there for a long vacation, including an Alaska cruise and a few days in Vancouver. I had the pancakes and some coffee, which were pretty good (and featured real maple syrup).

As we inched along, I found we were following the same CN line that I had taken on the Canadian into Vancouver last year, as I observed the SkyTrain, the same bridge, as well as New Westminster BNSF station. This was a bit of a surprise, as I had expected we’d take CP (which I saw on the West Coast Express). As it turns out, we did turn onto CP, but not until Mission - and that run took around 3 hours. Much slower than the West Coast Express, even with that making intermediate stops.

 

[thully]

After we got on CP, the territory was new to me - while we had traversed similar areas on the Canadian, that was on CN and mostly in the dark. We followed the Fraser River while traversing small towns I had only seen on the map when riding the Canadian as I had been sleeping. They did come around with one snack after breakfast but before lunch - most were offered peanuts, but since I have an allergy they offered chips. Pretty soon after getting on to CP it was time to head to lunch.

Sat down with the same UK couple as well as someone from New York. At one point there was a comment from the UK couple about how they thought they had Amtrak tickets out of Seattle, but we’re confused to find no train at that time and noticed the “Operated by Cantrail” (which is of course a bus). I couldn’t resist mentioning the “Can’t Rail” joke from last year when no trains were running. For lunch I had a fish special - while I liked the fish, I didn’t particularly care for the veggies and rice.

We ended up going through Hell’s Gate while I was at lunch, which was a bit annoying as I didn’t get a great view. While we started around noon, the service took until after 2pm - in general, it seemed like Rocky Mountaineer did meals slower than Amtrak or VIA Rail. People doing second seating were still eating at close to 4! Getting a good view became a bit of an issue for the next few hours even after returning to my seat, as often the best views were on the other side and Rocky Mountaineer has no lounge car. While the outdoor viewing platform is there, you cannot sit down, and at times it felt too hot or too cold there. Also, while GoldLeaf is a dome car, the upper parts of the window are tinted such that you don’t really get as good of a view as in the dome cars on the Canadian.

Eventually I changed clothes in the bathroom so that it was more comfortable outside, and in any case the scenery moved to my side of the car once we reached the Thompson River. That and Kamloops Lake were surprise highlights of the trip on the Canadian, and here we got to see it all in bright daylight. Also, the outdoor viewing platform proved to be a great way to experience it all once I had on comfortable clothes for the outside weather. It was also a nice change of pace to go down there - there is no lounge car and you can’t walk between cars on the Rocky Mountaineer (the sign says “crew only”), so that is the only real option.

However, around this time, we began to get significantly slowed down by freight trains. As it grew later, I began to start feeling hungry, and wish there was some kind of cafe car or even some grab and go snacks as are found in the Canadian lounge cars - while they serve drinks regularly, the menu does not include snacks. I eventually found out they had done a cheese and crackers service and somehow missed me, and managed to get some. As it got later, I was starting to want dinner, but had to wait until we got off the train and to our Kamloops hotel, which didn’t happen until after 8pm.

Got into Kamloops, got some food, and am now writing this right before I go to bed. Another early start tomorrow - bus leaves the hotel at 6am with a 6:45 train departure for Banff. Might try to grab something at the Tim Hortons across the street, though, as they open at 5 and I will be in the second serving for breakfast and lunch…

 

[lstone19]

Since the Rocky Mountaineer's Vancouver station is adjacent to Pacific Central Station (Via and Amtrak), I'm surprised you were surprised to use the same route Via and Amtrak use. Looking on Google Earth, while there is a connection from near Pacific Central Station to the CP by the waterfront, it connects the wrong way and appears to dump into a yard at the CP end. I have no idea how good the track is.

You also appear to be unaware that CN and CP do shared directional running in the Fraser River canyon. You crossed the river to the CP just before Mission because that's how all eastbound trains (including the Canadian) go. The shared track ends, IIRC, about ten miles before Ashcroft. I suspect you stayed on CP from there to Kamloops (while the EB Canadian returns to CN there) since I believe the station the Rocky Mountaineer uses in Kamloops is on the CP.

 

[thully]

I was aware of the CN/CP directional running, which is why I kind of expected to use CP track out of Vancouver. The Rocky Mountaineer station is close to Pacific Central station, but does use a different track before reversing to join up…

Since the Rocky Mountaineer's Vancouver station is adjacent to Pacific Central Station (Via and Amtrak), I'm surprised you were surprised to use the same route Via and Amtrak use. Looking on Google Earth, while there is a connection from near Pacific Central Station to the CP by the waterfront, it connects the wrong way and appears to dump into a yard at the CP end. I have no idea how good the track is.

You also appear to be unaware that CN and CP do shared directional running in the Fraser River canyon. You crossed the river to the CP just before Mission because that's how all eastbound trains (including the Canadian) go. The shared track ends, IIRC, about ten miles before Ashcroft. I suspect you stayed on CP from there to Kamloops (while the EB Canadian returns to CN there) since I believe the station the Rocky Mountaineer uses in Kamloops is on the CP.

 

[zephyr17]

You crossed the river to the CP just before Mission because that's how all eastbound trains (including the Canadian) go. The shared track ends, IIRC, about ten miles before Ashcroft. I suspect you stayed on CP from there to Kamloops (while the EB Canadian returns to CN there) since I believe the station the Rocky Mountaineer uses in Kamloops is on the CP.

Yeah, the Rocky Mountaineer station is just south of Pacific Central (formerly CN) station and ties in at CN Junction a little south of the Pacific Central lead. Totally agree it would be awkward to get on CP from there, though they could pull straight through at CN Junction then back up to the CP interchange if they really wanted to. It makes more sense to just use the standard routing to the beginning of paired track running at Abbotsford/Mission.

The pictures look like they are from the north shore of Kamloops Lake, which would put it on the CN past CP Basque (end of CP/CN paired track running). That makes a certain amount of sense since the Banff and Jasper sections were combined and the Rocky Mountaineer's big operating and servicing base is on the CN just north of CN's Kamloops Yard. After discharging passengers at Kamloops North they could pull forward to the Rocky Mountaineer base, service and restock the train, and cut the sections apart. Then back the Banff section down to the wye at the south end the CN yard, pull forward it forward across the CN bridge across the South Thompson River, and back a short distance to spot it for loading at the CP station. They have to get the train into the Rocky Mountaineer facilities on the CN in any case, that's the center of their operations.

 

[lstone19]

Zephyr17, thanks. I didn't know that RM's service facility was on CN.

 

[thully]

Once we got to Kamloops, I got a very late dinner (being almost 9pm), and went to bed. It wasn’t a great sleep - I got a stomach ache, and kept waking up with the 5:50am bus departure looming over me. I was finally started by what I thought was someone yelling “5am!” - got up since my alarm was set for then anyway.

Managed to get everything packed and grab some Tim Hortons in time before the bus departed, and got on the bus. We pulled up right to our railcar, as there didn’t seem to be a proper station as in Vancouver. Eventually got on our rail car, and we were off. The scenery east of Kamloops was pretty interesting, with us following the Thompson River and a series of lakes. Noticed some people enjoying recreational activities there, but no mooners as you’d see on the Zephyr.

Having been first for breakfast the previous day, I was second this time. Was seated with some people from the Michigan group this time, and as the menu was the same as before ordered the same thing (pancakes). Soon after we started breakfast, the train came to a stop, and we got word that a defect was located on the track and we had to wait an hour. We pulled forward slowly a bit more, but eventually came to a stop again. While delays aren’t very fun, I was glad this one happened during a meal.

After breakfast, we continued on our journey, going through Glacier National Park (which is not the same one as in the US) and the Columbia River (which is the same one as in the US). We saw several long freight trains, and actually saw a facility with CPKC signage (which was a first on this trip). We eventually began to see mountains approaching, and started going through some tunnels. Not the famous Spiral Tunnels, but we were getting closer. Lunch ended up being really late, as the second seating was yesterday - we didn’t start eating until 2pm Pacific Time, and didn’t finish until 3:30 (by which time our clocks had shifted to Mountain Time, so 4:30pm). Given that (and the early Tim Hortons) I basically made lunch dinner. At dinner I sat with some other people from our Michigan group.

Once we got back from lunch, we began rapidly approaching the mountains, and it seems we were closing in on the Spiral Tunnels and our ultimate destination of Banff. This was probably the best scenery I had seen from a train, edging out the Zephyr and Canadian. We listened to some narration from the Rocky Mountaineer staff - one of which had said she was from Australia and would like to do the Ghan. They did pass our one last shack of crackers and cheese plus wine - I ate some but not the wine. We eventually made it to the Spiral Tunnels and ascended, though it did seem to take longer than I hoped. At this later point in the trip I did have a bit of trouble getting pictures, mostly because we didn’t have a lounge car and scenery was on the other side (as was the case previously).

We eventually made it to Banff around 9pm Mountain, after 13 hours on the train (25 in total). Had been hoping to get to the hot springs, but the late arrival made that not possible. Ultimately by the time we got into the hotel it was 9:30, and I ended up using the hotel pool/hot tub (and ran into the tour guides there). Had another stomach ache at this time - it seemed clear that this is the same recurring issue that delayed/changed my San Diego Gathering trip rearing its ugly head. I am at least still enjoying it when I don’t ache too back, and will be flying back on Tuesday…

 

[Northwestern]

Yes,

Once in Vancouver, I took some time to rest before our tour group met up, and get dinner and a few things. Also, I called Harbour Air about the seaplane tour, and was able to book what they call the Mail Run (Vancouver to Maple Bay via Salt Spring Island) tomorrow afternoon (after our morning tour of Vancouver) though I will miss out on the Salt Spring Island stopover which would involve twice as much time.

Got together with the tour group at 7pm and introduced ourselves to each other. On the way there, I ran into the trip host for Michigan, who had in fact been on the same BC Ferries Connector bus and ferry as me. There was a bit of lively banter about football - about 2/3 of the group were Michigan, with most of the rest Mississippi State and one lone Wisconsin couple. Most of the group was there, though a few were doing other things and some weren’t arriving until tomorrow (guessing there may be an airline snafu explaining that). The people doing a pre-tour in Victoria were a bit late, owing to a cancelled 2pm ferry and a late 3pm ferry.

We went over the schedule for the next few days and some administrative details as to how the Rocky Mountaineer operates. First of all, they will knock on our doors to collect checked bags for the Rocky Mountaineer at 5:30am the day of departure. Thats pretty darned early! Secondly, the train will split in Kamloops, with half going to Jasper and half going to Banff (much like the Lake Shore Limited and Empire Builder). Finally, they do meals in two sittings, with people getting the first sitting the first day getting the second the second (and vice versa).

***************************
Interesting narrative. Thanks for posting. Yep, 5:30 AM is just too early for a baggage pickup.
I guess it's necessary to get train departure on time. I have been on several Rocky Mountaineer excursions, and early wake-ups were the only real negative. One other disappointment, on a Vancouver to Banff journey, 3 years ago during the last week in May, it was snowing all the way from the Rockies to Banff, and the temperature in Banff was 33 degrees. I didn't expect that.

Another trip which I really enjoyed was their "Rainforest to Gold Rush" excursion (Vancouver-Whistler-Quesnel-Jasper). However, 4 days of 5:30 AM wake-ups was a little too much for me.

 

[zephyr17]

Zephyr17, thanks. I didn't know that RM's service facility was on CN.

Driven past it many times on parallel BC 5 on my way to Sun Peaks.

 

[thully]

The last couple days were spent touring Banff and the surrounding areas, both with the tour group and a bit on my own. After breakfast yesterday morning, we went to the Banff Gondola, which we rode to the top of Sulphur Mountain and back down. That was a fun ride, and we had some cool views at the top of the mountain. After that, our bus dropped us in downtown Banff, where I got lunch and used the Roam bus pass provided by the hotel to get back. That afternoon, I took the free time to enjoy the Banff Upper Hot Springs - that was kind of nice, though I definitely prefer Glenwood Springs (it felt more like a pool-sized hot tub with the water temperature and using chlorine instead of minerals). After a brief lecture for our tour group, I again used the Roam bus pass to go to dinner and back again to the hotel.

The main street (Banff Ave) through downtown is pedestrianized, with only Roam buses using it to get through. The bus system was well used, with many tourists getting on to get where they want to go (unlike what you’d generally see in the US outside of large cities), and the buses generally run pretty often for a town that size (every 15 min during the day, 30 min morning and night). Kind of reminds me of RFTA in Glenwood Springs/Aspen (and like that system, it has regional routes like one to Lake Louise). After dinner, I did run into the one time that the “generally” every 15 or 30min doesn’t apply - there was a scheduled 1hr gap between 7:55 and 8:49 on our route. Though it wasn’t too bad - I just slowed down eating dinner and ended up waiting only 20min or so.

This morning our group took a bus ride to Lake Louise, where we followed the Trans-Canada Highway, eating lunch at the Fairmont Chateau overlooking the lake, and then on to Moraine Lake. Both looked spectacular with their turquoise coloring. One interesting thing I heard about Moraine Lake - as of this year the road to access it is closed to private vehicles except for buses (either Parks Canada shuttles from a Park & Ride or tour buses) and vehicles for people spending the night. We then headed back to the hotel, where I have a bit of free time now until dinner - thinking I may head back to the hot springs (perhaps before and after dinner). Tomorrow after breakfast we will head to Calgary airport for flights back home.

 

[thully]

After our final group dinner, I decided to just head back to the room and get ready for bed instead of visiting the hot springs again - I was still feeling tired from the visit a few hours ago. Woke up somewhat early (6am) to have our bags packed for the shuttle to Calgary airport, where almost the entire group were catching flights back home (a couple had decided to stay longer in Banff or Calgary, which I almost did but in the end decided against - and with my stomach issues I’m glad I didn’t.)

After a bit over an hour and a half ride, I checked into my flight and got to my gate with a couple hours to spare. Though I was a little annoyed that YYC-DTW ticket I booked on WestJet with Delta SkyMiles somehow omitted the space between my first and middle name, forcing me to wait in line for manual check-in. Also, they charged me for my first checked bag, contrary to what they told me on the phone and during online check-in for this ticket.

Overall, I’d say the Rocky Mountaineer was a nice ride, but I definitely prefer the Canadian and Amtrak western LD trains service-wise. I didn’t like the early wake-up calls (would get more sleep in an sleeper) and late arrivals without a provided dinner, and meals being slow/really late if you get the second seating. Also, I would have liked the ability to get snacks/drinks quickly without waiting for them to come around, and being confined to one car without a lounge to sit in to socialize or see views that are opposite my seat wasn’t ideal.

Our tour guides from Orbridge seemed to concur - they do both the Canadian and Rocky Mountaineer, and prefer doing the Canadian for many of the reasons I mentioned above. Found out that they are in fact the largest customer for VIA’s Prestige cabins, booking all but one car when they do tours, and as such they end up having the Park car mostly to themselves before 4pm. I did ask if they did tours on Amtrak, though they do not (guessing Amtrak having way fewer sleepers may be part of that, combined with the lesser service level even if they were to use mostly bedrooms).

Despite this, the scenery is perhaps the best I’ve seen on a train, topping the Jasper scenery on the Canadian and perhaps the Zephyr/Starlight as well. Also, the outdoor viewing platform was a fun experience, though it doesn’t substitute for a full lounge. Of course, this was the original route of the Canadian - a shame they don't do it anymore, because combining that with the experience on VIA would be the ultimate train. Though I figure I’ll do the Canadian or Zephyr before doing the Rocky Mountaineer again - and if I did do it again, I may try westbound in hopes that going back instead of forward an hour made the wake-ups more tolerable.

 

[PeeweeTM]

Thanks for the report and your opinion about this train; it was on my maybe list and it will for not advance to my to-do list as I can relate to what you wrote.
I hope your stomach issues will go away again.

 

[lstone19]

After a bit over an hour and a half ride, I checked into my flight and got to my gate with a couple hours to spare. Though I was a little annoyed that YYC-DTW ticket I booked on WestJet with Delta SkyMiles somehow omitted the space between my first and middle name, forcing me to wait in line for manual check-in.

Thats's normal in how names are shown on airline tickets - spaces are removed. It should not have caused any issues. Did you actually have a problem checking-in on-line or at a kiosk or did you just assume there would be a problem and went to check-in agent?

The "names must match exactly" is not completely true as it appears to be somewhat of a fuzzy match. I'm retired from an airline so our names on our flight benefit tickets come from the employee database and are just full first concatenated to middle initial (no full middle). Despite that, I am 100% at getting Pre-Check since getting Global Entry even though my passport (and therefore GE card) is FIRST (full)MIDDLE. Never a problem (the only "problem" is my son is Brian A which shows up on tickets as BRIANA which has caused some people to look for a girl). In fact, we flew WestJet (we get benefits on other airlines as well) just a few months ago and no problem checking-in on-line with our names as FIRSTM.