Southeast Asian rail travels

[user 6862]

Anyone here ever used all or part of the Ho Chi Minh City/Saigon to Hanoi line, the so called Reunification Line? We're booked on it and it would be be interesting to hear any personal experiences from an AU member.

I have read a little online but some the reports are a bit lightweight, the quality isn't up to AU standards.

Thanks

 

[Ziv]

Anyone here ever used all or part of the Ho Chi Minh City/Saigon to Hanoi line, the so called Reunification Line? We're booked on it and it would be be interesting to hear any personal experiences from an AU member.

I have read a little online but some the reports are a bit lightweight, the quality isn't up to AU standards.

Thanks

I took that route way back in 2004. The train was old, slow and packed full of people but it was clean and well cared for. I can not remember the view from the train. I ended up hanging out with a dozen police officers and we drank about 30 of those green 500 ml vodka bottles. Not recommended. The drinking part, that is.
When I travel I tend to have long hair and look like a "hippy" so cops like to get my measure. Which can be a pain.
My car was a hard sleeper, just 3 shelves with thin cushions. The train was narrow gauge, I believe, and the track was poorly maintained so we ****** about a bit.
I had friends try to book tickets themselves for the same train a few days before my trip and they got ****** around. My concierge bought mine for me and it was smooth sailing. She also got a driver to put me and my bags in my car on the train which was actually a nice touch.
But it was 19 years ago so your mileage may vary.

 

[user 6862]

I took that route way back in 2004. The train was old, slow and packed full of people but it was clean and well cared for. I can not remember the view from the train. I ended up hanging out with a dozen police officers and we drank about 30 of those green 500 ml vodka bottles. Not recommended. The drinking part, that is.
When I travel I tend to have long hair and look like a "hippy" so cops like to get my measure. Which can be a pain.
My car was a hard sleeper, just 3 shelves with thin cushions. The train was narrow gauge, I believe, and the track was poorly maintained so we ****** about a bit.
I had friends try to book tickets themselves for the same train a few days before my trip and they got ****** around. My concierge bought mine for me and it was smooth sailing. She also got a driver to put me and my bags in my car on the train which was actually a nice touch.
But it was 19 years ago so your mileage may vary.

Sounds like an interesting journey being 'escorted' from end to end of the country, even if you couldn't focus on the scenery. Hard sleeper does sound a little gruelling although you survived it. Maybe helped by the beverage you were drinking? We're in soft seats, coach, as most of the soft sleeper were sold out already.
I got hi-jacked in a similar way on the Trans Siberian, same drink though, this lot were airforce officers. I was lucky to have a wife to rescue me, you were defenceless.

I'll leave a comment on the track conditions and if there are any views from the train after the trip.

We bought tickets online through an agency, they were very efficient and clear to use. It has been the best of any we've used for this rambling Asia trip, I'd recommend them Book Your Transportation In Asia – Baolau

Many thanks, very much looking forwards to this.

 

[Bob Dylan]

Sounds like an interesting journey being 'escorted' from end to end of the country, even if you couldn't focus on the scenery. Hard sleeper does sound a little gruelling although you survived it. Maybe helped by the beverage you were drinking? We're in soft seats, coach, as most of the soft sleeper were sold out already.
I got hi-jacked in a similar way on the Trans Siberian, same drink though, this lot were airforce officers. I was lucky to have a wife to rescue me, you were defenceless.

I'll leave a comment on the track conditions and if there are any views from the train after the trip.

We bought tickets online through an agency, they were very efficient and clear to use. It has been the best of any we've used for this rambling Asia trip, I'd recommend them Book Your Transportation In Asia – Baolau

Many thanks, very much looking forwards to this.

Another AU Member, "Long Train Running", traveled on the Vietnam RRs in the recent past, you might want to PM him for up to date info Jamie.

 

[Ziv]

Sounds like an interesting journey being 'escorted' from end to end of the country, even if you couldn't focus on the scenery. Hard sleeper does sound a little gruelling although you survived it. Maybe helped by the beverage you were drinking? We're in soft seats, coach, as most of the soft sleeper were sold out already.
I got hi-jacked in a similar way on the Trans Siberian, same drink though, this lot were airforce officers. I was lucky to have a wife to rescue me, you were defenceless.

I'll leave a comment on the track conditions and if there are any views from the train after the trip.

We bought tickets online through an agency, they were very efficient and clear to use. It has been the best of any we've used for this rambling Asia trip, I'd recommend them Book Your Transportation In Asia – Baolau

Many thanks, very much looking forwards to this.

Hi v v!
I just got 12Go's word that I do have a ticket on train #10 (the newer train sets) from Chiang Mai to Bangkok on the 16th! Yea!
Unfortunately, my 1st Class reservation got downgraded to 2nd Class, but I am going to be taking a train I have read about for years from Chiang Mai to Bangkok so I am pretty excited. I wanted to splurge on 1st Class but I am just happy to be able to ride the train. Seat61 has good things to say about it.
My tickets say I will be going to Hua Lamphong station in Bangkok but I have been told by others that there is a new station. Not sure where I will end up but I am looking forward to the journey!

 

[user 6862]

Hello from a very wet France. When are you travelling Ziv?

Apparently Bangkok has been trying to open a new replacement central station to the north of Hua Lamphong for a couple of years, probably Covid delayed it? It was or is still called Bang Sue, the new name is Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal Station not quite so snappy. I have been told the new station is operating, but before we travel I will try to confirm that.

We are travelling Bangkok ~> Chiang Mai the 27 January 2023 9.05am, 2nd class soft seats, same as you no 1st class available. We return to Bangkok on the 1 February by the 6pm sleeper.
Here's the important bit. This southbound train has a different destination to whatever our Bangkok start station will be. Our ticket shows it as Don Mueang by the airport of the same name, a few stops north of Bang Sue (if it's open).

I have a friend in Bangkok but he doesn't get out much, I'll text him to check if he'll try to find out the state of play with Bangkok's stations, let you know what feedback I get.

We also used 12Go for these rail tickets, ours are being posted to our hotel, we arrive 4 days before the train north. Had to go back to them a couple of times but have to say they responded pretty quickly.

 

[George Harris]

Vietnam track gauge is one meter = 3 ft, 3 3/8 inches. Originally built by the French. Much of it out of service during the Vietnamese war. In 1971, the section Saigon (I refuse to call it Ho Chi Minh City) to Long Binh Army base was in operation in South Vietnam used primarily for Vietnamese civilian workers in the Army base, plus some into, out of, and in Cam Rahn Bay Navy Base. Most of the rest of it in South Vietnam was either destroyed or simply out of service. Most of the coaches I saw were left over from the Frence, and pulled by what appeared to be small US made diesels. I don't know how much of the railroad was open in North Viet Nam. Obviously it is all now open throughout. There is also a rail line from Hanoi to the Chinese border, but I don't know whether that segment is meter gauge or standard gauge.

While in Vietnam in 1971 my construction platoon replaced a road culvert under the road on the base side of the Long Binh Post boundary fence, plus putting in a concrete apron to the matching railroad culvert on the other side of the fence and a presumably personnel proof barrier between bottom of boundary fence and channel. There was a fairly good sized wire running through the railroad culvert. It was a slack line. We carefully uncovered enough of it at the boundary end of the culvert to put concrete around it so it would not move. All CAREFULLY done by hand with small tools. I thought about clamping it, backing off a goodly long distance and pulling it to see what would happen, then thought better of it and decided to fix it so that it would not move. There was a simple rule about dealing with this sort of unknown. If it is slack, don't pull it. If it is tight don't move it or cut it. It could well have been connected to some sort of IED. I decided to follow that rule because if it had been connected to some sort of explosive device I did not want to have to explain why I blew up the railroad line. So far as I know, what ever was there then is still there.

 

[UserNameRequired]

Vietnam track gauge is one meter = 3 ft, 3 3/8 inches. Originally built by the French. Much of it out of service during the Vietnamese war. In 1971, the section Saigon (I refuse to call it Ho Chi Minh City) to Long Binh Army base was in operation in South Vietnam used primarily for Vietnamese civilian workers in the Army base, plus some into, out of, and in Cam Rahn Bay Navy Base. ...

What is the aquaculture? going on in Can Rahn Bay? It looks amazing on satellite view.

 

[Willbridge]

Vietnam track gauge is one meter = 3 ft, 3 3/8 inches. Originally built by the French. Much of it out of service during the Vietnamese war. In 1971, the section Saigon (I refuse to call it Ho Chi Minh City) to Long Binh Army base was in operation in South Vietnam used primarily for Vietnamese civilian workers in the Army base, plus some into, out of, and in Cam Rahn Bay Navy Base. Most of the rest of it in South Vietnam was either destroyed or simply out of service. Most of the coaches I saw were left over from the Frence, and pulled by what appeared to be small US made diesels. I don't know how much of the railroad was open in North Viet Nam. Obviously it is all now open throughout. There is also a rail line from Hanoi to the Chinese border, but I don't know whether that segment is meter gauge or standard gauge.

While in Vietnam in 1971 my construction platoon replaced a road culvert under the road on the base side of the Long Binh Post boundary fence, plus putting in a concrete apron to the matching railroad culvert on the other side of the fence and a presumably personnel proof barrier between bottom of boundary fence and channel. There was a fairly good sized wire running through the railroad culvert. It was a slack line. We carefully uncovered enough of it at the boundary end of the culvert to put concrete around it so it would not move. All CAREFULLY done by hand with small tools. I thought about clamping it, backing off a goodly long distance and pulling it to see what would happen, then thought better of it and decided to fix it so that it would not move. There was a simple rule about dealing with this sort of unknown. If it is slack, don't pull it. If it is tight don't move it or cut it. It could well have been connected to some sort of IED. I decided to follow that rule because if it had been connected to some sort of explosive device I did not want to have to explain why I blew up the railroad line. So far as I know, what ever was there then is still there.

Trains magazine reported that part of the inactive ROW was torn up by Marines using it for a roadway. They tossed the steel hardware aside and the VC used it for shrapnel.

According to Wikipedia, although the great majority of track is colonial meter gauge, most lines northeast of Hanoi are standard gauge or combined standard/meter gauge, facilitating run throughs with China. However, the VN railway is not as integrated with the Chinese network as one might think. They have very distinct histories and of course the two nations have been at odds with each other at times.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rail_transport_in_Vietnam

 

[Ziv]

Hello from a very wet France. When are you travelling Ziv?

Apparently Bangkok has been trying to open a new replacement central station to the north of Hua Lamphong for a couple of years, probably Covid delayed it? It was or is still called Bang Sue, the new name is Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal Station not quite so snappy. I have been told the new station is operating, but before we travel I will try to confirm that.

We are travelling Bangkok ~> Chiang Mai the 27 January 2023 9.05am, 2nd class soft seats, same as you no 1st class available. We return to Bangkok on the 1 February by the 6pm sleeper.
Here's the important bit. This southbound train has a different destination to whatever our Bangkok start station will be. Our ticket shows it as Don Mueang by the airport of the same name, a few stops north of Bang Sue (if it's open).

I have a friend in Bangkok but he doesn't get out much, I'll text him to check if he'll try to find out the state of play with Bangkok's stations, let you know what feedback I get.

We also used 12Go for these rail tickets, ours are being posted to our hotel, we arrive 4 days before the train north. Had to go back to them a couple of times but have to say they responded pretty quickly.

Hi v v, I am leaving Chiang Mai for Bangkok on the 16th of this week, so I will post info on which station I end up arriving at on the morning of the 17th. I kind of hope it is Hua Lamphong, just one more time! LOL! I will be kind of bumming if it is the station by Don Mueang. I imagine they will have instructions for newby's but I do not know how to get from Don Mueang to downtown Bangkok.
I have not booked my hotel in BKK yet so I have no idea of which direction I will be going. I have been trying to get into the Atlanta Hotel and it looks like it may be booked up but I am waiting for their response.

 

[John Bredin]

Apparently Bangkok has been trying to open a new replacement central station to the north of Hua Lamphong for a couple of years, probably Covid delayed it? It was or is still called Bang Sue, the new name is Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal Station not quite so snappy. I have been told the new station is operating, but before we travel I will try to confirm that.

The Man in Seat 61, who tries to keep on top of all passenger-rail matters throughout the world , says the new station will be open January 19. Link.

 

[Shanson]

The Smithsonian's Mighty Trains series has an hour episode on the Hanoi to Saigon train, but it's on Paramount+ streaming service. The Man in Seat 61, however, has posted this on YouTube:

 

[jis]

Apparently Bangkok has been trying to open a new replacement central station to the north of Hua Lamphong for a couple of years, probably Covid delayed it? It was or is still called Bang Sue, the new name is Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal Station not quite so snappy. I have been told the new station is operating, but before we travel I will try to confirm that.

Krung Thep is just Bangkok in Thai. Aphiwat means something like Revolution. Strictly speaking, the Thai name has the word Sathani in place of the phrase Central Station. It roughly translates to Station. It is apparently derived from the Sanskrit word Sthan which just means Place.

 

[user 6862]

Krung Thep is just Bangkok in Thai. Aphiwat means something like Revolution. Strictly speaking, the Thai name has the word Sathani in place of the phrase Central Station. It roughly translates to Station. It is apparently derived from the Sanskrit word Sthan which just means Place.

Thanks for pointing that out, makes more sense now.

My point was going from a 2 word name to a 6 word name doesn't make it memorable or trip off the tongue. Usually most languages are abbreviated rather than lengthened in reality.

 

[jis]

BTW, I do remember passing through Bang Sue when I traveled from Singapore to Bangkok. It is between Bang Bamru and Hualamphong. Even then it was a large station with many platforms and a very large yard.

The top floor of the new station is interesting. It is reserved for HSR Lines connecting the three airports of the region together. In the future it will also have platforms for Intercity HSR Lines serving Chiang Mai, the border station to Laos at Nong Khai and the border station to Malaysia at Padang Besar.

I have passed through the Padang Besar C&I post on my way from KL to Bangkok via Hat Yai (change of trains).

 

[user 6862]

Hi v v, I am leaving Chiang Mai for Bangkok on the 16th of this week, so I will post info on which station I end up arriving at on the morning of the 17th. I kind of hope it is Hua Lamphong, just one more time! LOL! I will be kind of bumming if it is the station by Don Mueang. I imagine they will have instructions for newby's but I do not know how to get from Don Mueang to downtown Bangkok.
I have not booked my hotel in BKK yet so I have no idea of which direction I will be going. I have been trying to get into the Atlanta Hotel and it looks like it may be booked up but I am waiting for their response.

I have already taken a look at transiting from Don Mueang to Krung Thep, it's the Red Line tram. From there to your hoped for hotel it's the Green Sukhumvit Line to Phloen Chit stop about 1 km from the hotel.

Now that is a hotel you've chosen, hope you write about it, it looks quite unique. Now we have too many arrangements connected into the hotel we have booked or I would try to change to the Atlanta Hotel, also our choice is apparently close to my friend we hope to visit although as we still don't have his address so I can't say that 100%.
The Atlanta Hotel instantly reminded us in part of the Malaysian former government guest houses, the network set up around the country for travelling goverment officials, very similar.

Would appreciate your take on Chiang Mai either through here or by message, and the train journey south too if you don't minding writing about your travels?

As soon as I have any info I'll post it for you here, well up to the 15th anyway.

 

[jis]

BTW, the official name as it appears on the facade of the new station at Bang Sue is "Bang Sue Grand Station"!

 

[user 6862]

The Man in Seat 61, who tries to keep on top of all passenger-rail matters throughout the world , says the new station will be open January 19. Link.

Thanks John. I've read that but the station has been announced open before but they have had problems. If my friend living in Bangkok doesn't get factual open or not info then Ziv will know the SP before we travel.

Our train tickets are depart from Krung Thep to Chiang Mai, return to Don Mueang so we'll see. It all sounds like an adventure whatever happens...

 

[user 6862]

BTW, the official name as it appears on the facade of the new station at Bang Sue is "Bang Sue Grand Station"!

... and what was the name the day after this photo was taken? hahaha

 

[jis]

... and what was the name the day after this photo was taken? hahaha

Indeed!

But we should thank our stars that they did not prepend the entire name of their King to the name.

 

[user 6862]

Indeed!

But we should thank our stars that they did not prepend the entire name of their King to the name.

Just looked it up, phew!

 

[user 6862]

The Smithsonian's Mighty Trains series has an hour episode on the Hanoi to Saigon train, but it's on Paramount+ streaming service. The Man in Seat 61, however, has posted this on YouTube:

Thank you Shanson, we enjoyed that.

Did notice quite a lot of movement of the cars on the track, also the coracle like boats on one of the ocean sections. Just hope our allotted seats are on the right hand side as we are travelling north.

 

[Ziv]

So much going on in this thread! John, thank you for the info on the planned shift on the 19th. Hopefully my arrival on the 17th means I get one more trip through Hua Lamphong.
And Shanson, thanks for the link to the Seat 61 video. That moment at 1:10 when the train starts moving down the track and the station appears to move past? That is what travel is for me. To have a little bit of home/my compartment/my bed and to watch to world move past as I luxuriate with a book and a bottle of water? That is luxury. The clack-clack of jointed rail is a lullaby I will always treasure, especially now that it is growing rare. And to see those cockle shaped coracles v v pointed out? A small wonder that makes you want to prowl through the landing area and see just what the boats are fishing for.
Jis, I am a history fan that loves tidbits of knowledge so your info on the name and the derivation of said name is a welcome one! Bang Sue/Krung Thep Athiwat is not too terribly distant from Hua Lamphong and central Bangkok, so that is a good thing. Good info to have. I tell my friends, perhaps too often, that I am a veritable treasure trove of useless trivia, much of it of dubious provenance. Those that understand me generally agree.
v v, thank you for the Red Line info. I hope I won't need it but it is good to know just in case. No word from the Atlanta yet, crossing my fingers. I read about the place a couple years ago, but forgot about it and stayed at my usual haunt on Ram Buttri earlier this year. The Atlanta looks much more interesting. The library alone is enough to hook me. The lobby is like getting biscuits with your beer.
I am just happy to be here in SE Asia while my friends are fighting their ways through snow drifts. I think they may be exaggerating the depth of the snow a little, but you never know!

 

[user 6862]

So much going on in this thread! John, thank you for the info on the planned shift on the 19th. Hopefully my arrival on the 17th means I get one more trip through Hua Lamphong.
And Shanson, thanks for the link to the Seat 61 video. That moment at 1:10 when the train starts moving down the track and the station appears to move past? That is what travel is for me. To have a little bit of home/my compartment/my bed and to watch to world move past as I luxuriate with a book and a bottle of water? That is luxury. The clack-clack of jointed rail is a lullaby I will always treasure, especially now that it is growing rare. And to see those cockle shaped coracles v v pointed out? A small wonder that makes you want to prowl through the landing area and see just what the boats are fishing for.
Jis, I am a history fan that loves tidbits of knowledge so your info on the name and the derivation of said name is a welcome one! Bang Sue/Krung Thep Athiwat is not too terribly distant from Hua Lamphong and central Bangkok, so that is a good thing. Good info to have. I tell my friends, perhaps too often, that I am a veritable treasure trove of useless trivia, much of it of dubious provenance. Those that understand me generally agree.
v v, thank you for the Red Line info. I hope I won't need it but it is good to know just in case. No word from the Atlanta yet, crossing my fingers. I read about the place a couple years ago, but forgot about it and stayed at my usual haunt on Ram Buttri earlier this year. The Atlanta looks much more interesting. The library alone is enough to hook me. The lobby is like getting biscuits with your beer.
I am just happy to be here in SE Asia while my friends are fighting their ways through snow drifts. I think they may be exaggerating the depth of the snow a little, but you never know!
View attachment 31034

Admire the fortitude of your friends, especially the one on the far side with no gloves. Hardy or what!

 

[user 6862]

Hi v v, I am leaving Chiang Mai for Bangkok on the 16th of this week, so I will post info on which station I end up arriving at on the morning of the 17th. I kind of hope it is Hua Lamphong, just one more time! LOL! I will be kind of bumming if it is the station by Don Mueang. I imagine they will have instructions for newby's but I do not know how to get from Don Mueang to downtown Bangkok.
I have not booked my hotel in BKK yet so I have no idea of which direction I will be going. I have been trying to get into the Atlanta Hotel and it looks like it may be booked up but I am waiting for their response.

The Man in Seat 61, who tries to keep on top of all passenger-rail matters throughout the world , says the new station will be open January 19. Link.

As of today Saturday 14th, 20:30 Bangkok time Hua Lamphong is still operational, of course it is supposed to be until the 19th anyway. No further news I'm afraid.