Sunset Limited to Coast Starlight

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Joined
Mar 17, 2023
Messages
73
Location
West
Almost all of my riding is long distance (hence my moniker), and I tend to purchase tickets early, as I usually have fairly narrow windows. Last spring a ride back from the total eclipse was delayed 18 hours due to the train clipping a trailer a few stops before we were to board. I received a voucher for a ton of money with an 9 month expiry, and yet, at the same time, had already purchased the only tickets I planned to use during those 9 months.

The resolution was to fly into New Orleans for a few days and do my first full-run on the Sunset Limited with a connection to the Coast Starlight for the first day's run up the coast. With a splurge on a roomette I would not sleep in for the Coast Starlight, my voucher covered all but about $100 of the cost of the ride. As always, it was a trip like no other.

New Orleans' Magnolia Room was pretty much as I'd heard. It is a room. I'd heard it just had coffee . . . and if you happened to be on the second or third LD train out of town that day, it may not be a replenished pot. What I found was a bowl with bags of chips and bags of popcorn. There was also a tray with packaged coffee cake. There was no coffee, however. Literally each party that came in included someone who looked around and said, "no coffee." I had the coffee cake sugar bomb.

There were 20-25 of us for the sleepers and it appeared about the same number for coach. Boarding was smooth and fairly efficient and we were rolling on time. The first thing I noticed was my roomette had nothing in it. No menu. No problem, I have it memorized. No tissue box. And no towels or washcloths. Okay, sometimes they're in the shower room. There were two water bottles, however. (I wonder if the lack of menus was to encourage the limited ridership to go to the diner and tip the staff there.). There was no breakfast service, but the attendant came around and handed us the same packaged coffee cake I'd just eaten. I figured half of my recommended calories for the day in coffee cake might not be a great idea, so I did not have a second round.

I had thought we'd go out over Pontchartrain before turning west since I'd read so much about that leaving New Orleans by train, but the SSL skirts Pontchartrain. Still there was so much marsh and bayou and waterfowl that I enjoyed the views greatly. As with so much with Amtrak, I've driven this same route, but it's a different experience to do it without having to keep eyes on the road.

Barely into Texas we hit a cold front. By Houston we were in the 30s, with low-20s predicted for the San Antonio stop and joining with the Texas Eagle. We'd be in the teens after daybreak, even right up on the Mexican border. I had not come with more than a warm sweater that might be comfortable in about 45 degrees, so other than quick step offs and retreats, between Houston and Tucson, I remained on the train. I was thankful for the 2 warm blankets, and I used them both to sleep. We were also about 90 minutes late leaving San Antonio -- I believe due to the TE's delay, so our stops were shortened a bit. Every time through Alpine, however, I have the urge to schedule a pause in my journey there. I regretted not being able to step off there even for a few minutes.

I made too many assumptions in forgiving the lack of set up in the roomette. I figured there were probably back up tissue boxes in the baggage rack as there sometimes are. When I saw there weren't, I realized that pocket packs of tissues had been foisted upon me before I'd left home, so no big deal. I'd figured towels awaited in the shower room, but when I got there early in the morning on the run down to the border and found none, I had the choice to either wake the attendant after her freezing middle of the night assignment of a few hours before or to raid the open and unoccupied H-room. I raided the H-room for the readily apparent washcloth and a couple of hand towels. When I caught the attendant at around 9am, I told her of my heist. "Oh, thanks for letting me know, do you need anything else?" I didn't ask what was up with no linens available. It's shocking how incurious and forgiving I can be in such moments.

We arrived in LA early, just before 5am. I can't remember the last time that happened on my LDs. The LA Metro Lounge's attendant was there early and waiting. I like the LA Metro Lounge. It's not NYC or Chicago, but I find it comfortable if I can get away from the TV. The snacks were okay, though more limited than usual, and the hot drink machine was really all I needed.

Again boarding was smooth and we were out on time. And what a stark contrast in the room. This was the most done I'd seen a roomette. Hand towel and washcloth folded and placed on the step to the top bunk. On top of them, a bottle each of shampoo, conditioner and lotion. Water, menu, tissue box. And the curtains . . . the curtains were twisted once and then attached to the velcro so that they had an attractive billow. An artist had been through. It looked amazing.

The SSL attendant thrived on interaction, and it was necessary in her service. The Starlight attendant retreated more, but she'd had set us up so well, it didn't matter. I appreciated them both. Overall, I know which I prefer, but I wonder if the best of both is possible.

This was my first Coast Starlight seated on the inland side. That was fine. I've lucked out several times and my favorite section of the southern part of the Starlight has become the pass around the horseshoe and tunnel north of SLO which is fine, and maybe better, on the inland side. As happens now we fell a little behind around Salinas, but I got to my destination just around 20 minutes late. Not bad for a 60-hour run.
 
And no towels or washcloths. Okay, sometimes they're in the shower room.
We always go to the shower room shortly after boarding and grab shower towels to avoid having a problem in the early morning when we need them
I had thought we'd go out over Pontchartrain before turning west since I'd read so much about that leaving New Orleans by train, but the SSL skirts Pontchartrain. Still there was so much marsh and bayou and waterfowl that I enjoyed the views greatly. As with so much with Amtrak, I've driven this same route, but it's a different experience to do it without having to keep eyes on the road.
You go over Pontchartrain on the Crescent, not on the SL.
Every time through Alpine, however, I have the urge to schedule a pause in my journey there. I regretted not being able to step off there even for a few minutes.
We've often done the Atlanta--> NM thing by going to El Paso and last November on the way to NOL from El Paso, we made a two day stop - just because. Ups and downs there.

Holland hotel was pretty good and just across from station. However, their restaurant is closed indefinitely.

No car rentals any more nor is there any public transportation. and there is one guy that does Uber/Lyft isn't always available to take you anywhere.

Be prepared to do a lot of walking to get to the Museum - over a mile and no signs that tell you where it is on the college campus. It was okay. For two almost 78/80, it was a long walk in the sun.

Our train out of Alpine, instead of being on-time at 8:45PM, arrived after 4AM. Since we had already checked out of our hotel and it was full, we sat in the Lobby most of the night. The staff leave at 7PM but the Lobby is open 24/7 and people self check-in and pick up their own keys after staff is gone. Very trusting folks but I guess there's not much crime there.

No easy ways to get to any points of interest or nearby towns.

They roll the streets up at 5PM so few places to eat at night w/o a car.

There's only a couple of hotels withing walking distance of the (unmanned) station as the rest of them require a car being at the edge of town.

All-in-all we did enjoy our two-day stay albeit we were forced to take another two days in San Antonio because our late train was terminated in San Antonio and Amtrak wanted to bus us overnight on a 16 hour bus ride so we chose to catch the next train and kept or bedroom. San Antonio was great and we had so much fun, we forgot that we were forced to get off to stay alive to avoid that bus.

Would we stop in Alpine again? No. Are we glad we did? Yes. Every time we went by there on the SL, I've always wanted to stop there just because...
 
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