Given that the Port Kent ferry only runs some three months of the year, I started considering other possibilities for connecting the Adirondack and Vermonter in other seasons. After my recent trip, I have no enthusiasm for continuing to Montreal. I kept returning to my NENE Amtrak route map and noticing how relatively close Rutland was to White River Junction, and wondered if there might be bus service between the two. Windsor is even closer, and has the longest covered bridge in America, but is a far smaller burg compared even to WRJ, where I've visited some dozen times.
I discovered that Vermont Translines runs a Route 4 bus - logically following US Route 4 between the city of Rutland and the unincorporated village of WRJ. The venerable Coolidge Hotel (adjacent to the Briggs Opera House) is situated across the tracks from the station, being built of wood with many sloping floors - and lots of fire detectors-extinguishers. A brick facade was later added to the front and sides.
Given the small size - Wiki shows just 2,286 residents in 2010, WRJ has a surprisingly active social/cultural scene, with a small arts district and three very good restaurants in easy walking distance of the station - Elixir, Tuckerbox and Thyme. I have no experience of Thyme as it replaces a previous establishment, but the other two are both excellent, with Elixir more trendy and Tuckerbox more world-food exotic.
There are other lodging options "up the hill" near the I-89/I-91 interchange, but they're a taxi ride away and lacking whatever charm there is in the downtown - on the plus side, they're much closer to the bus depot, while some are a decent walk away. You'll need a taxi ride in the evening or in the morning. An option is the short walk to the nearby confluence of the White and Connecticut Rivers - decades ago I went there one evening to celebrate the completion of a two day 50 mile partly WW canoeing run.
Here are some random images from late August 2016, when I stayed overnight at the Coolidge after leading a 5-day bicycle tour, and did a short downtown walking tour before dinner. There was a new small cafe/club off the lobby (think breakfast) with fine country - Vermont style, music and lively dancing.
WRJ station with switcher
WRJ station heritage display
Just what any traveler needs
If the Coolidge is too expensive for you . . . .
Tuckerbox - inside and out I just noticed how the nearest woman's blouse provides a segue from her pants to her hair.
I'm always interested in the backs of things
Almost sunset - time for dinner at Elixir
I'll freely admit that Lake Champlain on the Adirondack and Burlington on the Vermonter are the "glamor" highlights for these trains, but I personally enjoy WRJ and Rutland as smaller, less busy cities than Burlington, and perhaps more typical of Vermont - I know many Vermonters don't consider Burlington as being truly representative of the state, with some having even stronger views.
I've spent less time in Rutland, and feel the city largely sold its soul by allowing a sprawling Walmart-anchored shopping center adjacent to the traditional downtown. Perhaps they were trying to bring shoppers back to the city, but I doubt much of it benefits the traditional stores. I've had bike tours spend a night there and all the chain hotels are over a mile from the downtown/station area, and ditto for any B&B's. OTOH, there are plenty of good places to eat in the downtown area, and some remnants of the Rutland RR may have survived nearby.
Right now the bus from Rutland officially gets to WRJ 23 minutes after the southbound Vermonter has passed through (shades of Springfield ;-), but I've written VT-TransLines suggesting an earlier (10 AM) departure - which wouldn't impact connections from their N-S #7 bus from the north, which arrives at 9:50. However, they would also need to add a new stop at/near the station with the town's blessings. This would allow a two-day round-trip, although I'm happy with the concept of the three-day version.
I'm planning to check this out in mid-late October, after the leaf-peeper lodging surcharge has ended. I've decided that counter-clockwise works out better for me with a closer to daylight arrival in WRJ than I would have in Rutland, and an 11 AM Rutland departure on Saturdays, giving me a sub-30 minute connection in Schenectady. Clockwise would also require an overnight in Schenectady outbound - I'm certain I'll be staying there a lot anyway over the next year or so. I'm considering hopping off the train for 24 hours in B-boro - the Art-Deco Latchis Hotel is mere blocks from the station, but we'll have to see, as they may well be sold out by now. But then I wouldn't mind going later in the month.
I lifted this image off their site, doing a print screen in the half second before some text overlaid it - since I've brought a half-dozen groups there, I'll consider it fair marketing exchange. The Latchis is the lighter brick structure immediately behind the tallest foreground building with a sloped-roof shed on top of it. I later realized that it's part of a short video loop, with the Vermonter just leaving town on a autumn evening, and a long line of cars backed up to the west. Formerly there was an overhead passage to the outer track at the station, and you can still see the connection site in the small but excellent museum currently there. There's a small river tumbling down to the Connecticut just in front of the road, and several years back there was heavy damage from a major spring flood.
I've provided the basic timing below for those in NYC and points south - in case you find yourself needing a non-corridor train fix in the middle of winter. Although - in the midst of winter it'll be dark even before you cross the state line, while you will get daylight in Vermont on the trip south. Maybe in early spring - mud season locally. Another variation is getting off the bus in Woodstock for an overnight. Lots of ways to play this.
Clockwise
Ethan Allen Arrives Rutland at 7:52 PM
Overnight in Rutland
VT-Trans Leaves Rutland at 10:30 AM
Arrives WRJ at Noon
overnight in WRJ
Vermonter Leaves WRJ at 11:37 AM
Counter-Clockwise
Vermonter Arrives WRJ at 6:18 PM
Overnight in WRJ
VT-Trans leaves WRJ at 3:05 PM
Arrives Rutland at 4:35 PM
Overnight in Rutland
Ethan Allen leaves Rutland at 8:15 AM weekdays (11:15 AM Saturday)
I discovered that Vermont Translines runs a Route 4 bus - logically following US Route 4 between the city of Rutland and the unincorporated village of WRJ. The venerable Coolidge Hotel (adjacent to the Briggs Opera House) is situated across the tracks from the station, being built of wood with many sloping floors - and lots of fire detectors-extinguishers. A brick facade was later added to the front and sides.
Given the small size - Wiki shows just 2,286 residents in 2010, WRJ has a surprisingly active social/cultural scene, with a small arts district and three very good restaurants in easy walking distance of the station - Elixir, Tuckerbox and Thyme. I have no experience of Thyme as it replaces a previous establishment, but the other two are both excellent, with Elixir more trendy and Tuckerbox more world-food exotic.
There are other lodging options "up the hill" near the I-89/I-91 interchange, but they're a taxi ride away and lacking whatever charm there is in the downtown - on the plus side, they're much closer to the bus depot, while some are a decent walk away. You'll need a taxi ride in the evening or in the morning. An option is the short walk to the nearby confluence of the White and Connecticut Rivers - decades ago I went there one evening to celebrate the completion of a two day 50 mile partly WW canoeing run.
Here are some random images from late August 2016, when I stayed overnight at the Coolidge after leading a 5-day bicycle tour, and did a short downtown walking tour before dinner. There was a new small cafe/club off the lobby (think breakfast) with fine country - Vermont style, music and lively dancing.
WRJ station with switcher
WRJ station heritage display
Just what any traveler needs
If the Coolidge is too expensive for you . . . .
Tuckerbox - inside and out I just noticed how the nearest woman's blouse provides a segue from her pants to her hair.
I'm always interested in the backs of things
Almost sunset - time for dinner at Elixir
I'll freely admit that Lake Champlain on the Adirondack and Burlington on the Vermonter are the "glamor" highlights for these trains, but I personally enjoy WRJ and Rutland as smaller, less busy cities than Burlington, and perhaps more typical of Vermont - I know many Vermonters don't consider Burlington as being truly representative of the state, with some having even stronger views.
I've spent less time in Rutland, and feel the city largely sold its soul by allowing a sprawling Walmart-anchored shopping center adjacent to the traditional downtown. Perhaps they were trying to bring shoppers back to the city, but I doubt much of it benefits the traditional stores. I've had bike tours spend a night there and all the chain hotels are over a mile from the downtown/station area, and ditto for any B&B's. OTOH, there are plenty of good places to eat in the downtown area, and some remnants of the Rutland RR may have survived nearby.
Right now the bus from Rutland officially gets to WRJ 23 minutes after the southbound Vermonter has passed through (shades of Springfield ;-), but I've written VT-TransLines suggesting an earlier (10 AM) departure - which wouldn't impact connections from their N-S #7 bus from the north, which arrives at 9:50. However, they would also need to add a new stop at/near the station with the town's blessings. This would allow a two-day round-trip, although I'm happy with the concept of the three-day version.
I'm planning to check this out in mid-late October, after the leaf-peeper lodging surcharge has ended. I've decided that counter-clockwise works out better for me with a closer to daylight arrival in WRJ than I would have in Rutland, and an 11 AM Rutland departure on Saturdays, giving me a sub-30 minute connection in Schenectady. Clockwise would also require an overnight in Schenectady outbound - I'm certain I'll be staying there a lot anyway over the next year or so. I'm considering hopping off the train for 24 hours in B-boro - the Art-Deco Latchis Hotel is mere blocks from the station, but we'll have to see, as they may well be sold out by now. But then I wouldn't mind going later in the month.
I lifted this image off their site, doing a print screen in the half second before some text overlaid it - since I've brought a half-dozen groups there, I'll consider it fair marketing exchange. The Latchis is the lighter brick structure immediately behind the tallest foreground building with a sloped-roof shed on top of it. I later realized that it's part of a short video loop, with the Vermonter just leaving town on a autumn evening, and a long line of cars backed up to the west. Formerly there was an overhead passage to the outer track at the station, and you can still see the connection site in the small but excellent museum currently there. There's a small river tumbling down to the Connecticut just in front of the road, and several years back there was heavy damage from a major spring flood.
I've provided the basic timing below for those in NYC and points south - in case you find yourself needing a non-corridor train fix in the middle of winter. Although - in the midst of winter it'll be dark even before you cross the state line, while you will get daylight in Vermont on the trip south. Maybe in early spring - mud season locally. Another variation is getting off the bus in Woodstock for an overnight. Lots of ways to play this.
Clockwise
Ethan Allen Arrives Rutland at 7:52 PM
Overnight in Rutland
VT-Trans Leaves Rutland at 10:30 AM
Arrives WRJ at Noon
overnight in WRJ
Vermonter Leaves WRJ at 11:37 AM
Counter-Clockwise
Vermonter Arrives WRJ at 6:18 PM
Overnight in WRJ
VT-Trans leaves WRJ at 3:05 PM
Arrives Rutland at 4:35 PM
Overnight in Rutland
Ethan Allen leaves Rutland at 8:15 AM weekdays (11:15 AM Saturday)
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