# London to Baja California ~ across America



## v v

The purpose of this travelogue is to tell a story from the original idea, the reasons, through to what goes right and wrong in the planning and booking stages, to the start of the journey in Brentwood, Essex, UK on the 15 December 2018 to our hoped for safe return on the 31 January 2019.

Entries will be made if there is something to say, so not too much between now and December. The main reason behind starting so early is to show how random some travel is, how exciting planning can be and the disappointments too. So here we go...

We live both in the UK and France, we still work but are semi retired. Brexit features large for us as our holiday home in France may not be tenable if Brexit goes horribly wrong. This isn't a political point, just a plain fact and plays a big part in the next few years of our lives.

Our business is busy between mid August through to the end of March. There is a dead spot from around the 7 December through to the 31 January every year. Now normally we don't always make the most sensible decisions when it comes to travel, we are self described 'travel junkies'. True to form after 4 journeys in a row which all included some part of the USA and always including Amtrak and Greyhound we decided some of our other travel dreams need to be fulfilled, Iran is at the top of the list.

This is before Mr T decided to pull out of the nuclear deal too. So initial enquiries told us that September/October was a good time for us although this is the epicentre of our first period of busy at work. Next up because we are British (along with US and Canadian) citizens we have to have an official guide from the moment we arrived in Iran to the point we leave, not our style at all and this knocked us back. This only applies to citizens of 3 countries on the planet, bad luck for us.

Where next on the list. Central Asia, that would take a lot of planning, South America the same. Then by chance we were talking to a friend and he mentioned Algeria, a country we had tried to visit in 2002 with our camper but were refused entry as we had no visa. At that time visas were very difficult to get, because they had on going internal troubles and again because we're Brits.

That evening checked out Algerian entry conditions for 2018, no more difficult than a year and a half ago for Russia, the visa just takes a little longer. Our idea is a good one. Algeria has some of the best Roman ruins anywhere around the Mediterranean, and the Arab world of north Africa has always excited us. We (Rosie) has good French and they have more than 1000 kms of a good railway system running across the Mediterranean coast, this is a really good trip for us and we've waited a long time to go there.

Planned a route, starting from the UK or central France, train down through France to Marseilles, overnight ferry to Algiers. Using mainly Algerian railways plus taxis and buses visit maybe 4 or 5 cities/places/sights in Algeria, then ferry from western Algeria to southern Spain, train back into France/UK. Created a second alternate return route which would be via Sicily, then mainland Italy where the train is actually driven on to the ferry, we were set with great outline plans.

Then Brexit started to get serious. Any Algeria visit would have to be the same September/October time of year, the middle of our busy season. If we have to sell up in France there is an enormous amount of work to do there first, enormous is not a big enough word. We had a couple of talks around this and decided that for the first time in years we should be sensible, we can't take 4 weeks out in our busiest time, very deflated.

But you can't keep travel lust at bay. When an email popped up from our dear friend Milton asking when were we visiting the US next it hit the button! We found excellent reasons for not being in Europe from December to end January, convinced ourselves that as Brexit day was 29 March 2019 we would return to Europe rested and refreshed ready for whatever the politicians have managed to concoct for us, the perfect answer all round (ok we kid ourselves a little).

There was one condition we threatened each other with. This trip had to be as close to a regular 'holiday/vacation' as we could get, not at all like the last journey earlier this year which felt at times like an assault course (although it may have been one of our best ever travels).

All we have to do is to get ourselves to Los Angeles a few days before New Year, in the most comfortable but interesting manner possible and on the lowest budget possible. All do-able so we started to plan...


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## v v

The whole journey can be blamed on Milton. He's suggested many times that we should watch the Rose Parade in LA once and that we could avoid a northern European winter for a while and get some sunshine. Nothing there to object to and a hell of an invitation.

The email from Milton popped up, opened it quickly as they are always a good value read, instantly thought this is the year we should take up his invitations. Rosie was more cautious due to the B scenario, but I was starting to consider the possibility other random factors coming into play.

Long time friends are sailing their barge quite near to our French home in August, they proposed us all meeting for a day or two and we're excited about that. They had an experience a few years ago which we particularly remember them by. They were invited to work with American friends common to all of us at the Texas State Fair on their stand. Our common friends were puppeteers and our barge friends are amateur musicians, they would combine their talents. To get there was a problem, at the time they were living in Brittany, come back to this later.

About 2 months ago we made a delivery to the high Pyrenees mountains, to an American couple in their mid 30's. They offered us refreshments and we started to talk. Very interesting people who decide on a course and then just do it. A few moments before we were leaving Rosie asked how often they got back to the US, not very often was the reply. While living and working in Norway for the last 6 years they took the chance to explore Europe when on vacation, but have now discovered re-positioning cruises and may take one of those next winter. Then he said, Cunard lower their Transatlantic crossing price to very low levels at the end of the year, so we may aim for that. That was the lethal sentence as that's the route our barge friends took.

Off to California in December, cheap Transatlantic crossing on a proper ocean liner, arrive in New York just a couple of days before Christmas and see what a New York City Christmas was about, if the trains are running we would be spending Christmas Day on an Amtrak LD train. A real adventure without hardly any effort, just what we had been looking for. This idea materialised in under 3 seconds, then I explained it to Rosie... Instant response was THE COST! but I knew it was exotic enough that she was listening.

Next twenty minutes proved the trains run over Christmas, that a cabin in the bowels of the QM2 would cost a bit, but not so much, and affordable if we worked harder in the next 3 months, plus we could ask our barge friends in detail how they coped with the rarefied atmosphere of a posh cruise ship. (He doesn't fly but was prepared if they took a ship to NYC to do anything to work a couple of weeks at the State Fair and get to see some of the US via Amtrak on the way. He offered to be semi drugged to fly home, because he so wanted to play his bagpipes in Texas!). A plan was all coming together.

Immediately wrote to Milton to confirm that the invite still stood, got a fast long (for Milton) reply... A OK, the longer the better.

At this point things went a bit haywire, we didn't realise cruise bookings are a world of their own. That a booking didn't mean a booking until you got on board in some instances, that on most bookings you only aspire to a certain deck/cabin, don't actually get allocated one until the last few weeks or later. But after a couple of wrong turns, booking and paying for a cabin, but not being told which part, up, down, fore, aft or midships, we realised we were complete novices and had not booked what we thought we had. Asked for a refund and actually got a full refund too, that made up in some way for the lack of upfront information.

After seeing our refund turn up a few days later made a booking with a more open agency. We ended with a bargain cabin where we want on the ship with a balcony! Our parents would never have believed that we would be travelling on one of the Cunard Queen ships to New York, it's completely out of our league, fantasy land.

We get to spend the 22 December in NYC, we're looking for the brightest and craziest of what the city has to offer just before Christmas. Early next morning on our way to LA on the Cardinal then the Southwest Chief, where we'll arrive on the 26 December, in good time for the Rose Parade.

Now we have our tickets to LA, what else should we do there? Definitely back to Huntingdon Library, to re-visit one of the most amazing gardens in the world, oh, and yes, somewhere in California where we at last get to see some giant Redwoods, although that may be more difficult as it's winter. We have someone we must visit at Venice beach so we can pass a message on, and down to Norma's new place south of LA.

That should be a good start as we have to remember we are having a vacation, trying to rest up for getting back to Europe, then Mexico came over the horizon.


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## Bob Dylan

Wonderful post Jamie, were envious!

You might communicate with your homeboy Eddie, he took one of the bargain cruises to the Colonies, and as you know is a great source for tips on traveling on a budget!


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## Alice

The redwoods are gorgeous in winter and the parks are much less crowded than in summer. You have to decide whether you want the wide ones (Sequoia and Yosemite) or the tall ones (along the coast). I'm assuming you mean the inland species.

YARTS runs year round from Merced to Yosemite Valley, and you can get from LA to Merced by Amtrak.

To get to Sequoia in winter, you need a car, and you need to carry chains or have 4wd and snow tires. Sequoia is where all of the really big trees are. Some car rental agencies in the LA area have ski packages that include appropriate vehicles for driving in snow.

There are plenty of outdoor winter activities in both Yosemite and Sequoia to spend weeks, so don't fret about that. The web has numerous recommendations for loop trips encompassing Sequoia, Kings Canyon (adjoins Sequoia and also has big redwoods) and Yosemite, including winter trips. People I've taken up have been blown away by the scenery, there isn't anything else like it.

I recommend trying to fit in redwoods if at all feasible. It will be a great way to unwind after the madhouse of the Rose Parade.

(Note: Hats of to your friend Milton. Tease your friends back home with selfies of yourselves enjoying the sunshine in shorts and T-shirts. If you get a chance, tour the floats while they are still decorating them before the parade.)


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## cpotisch

Thank you so much for sharing!


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## MARC Rider

I've been to a sequoia grove in Yosemite and the coast redwoods in the North Coast. I personally think the coast redwoods are a better spectacle. The forest is other worldly, like something out of lord of the rings. Also, despite being further north, there's no snow, but it could be raining pretty hard. The other problem is that they're hundreds of miles out of the way from LA. There are groves south of San Francisco, Muir Woods, in Marin County right to the north of the city is pretty nice, though not as spectacular as the stuff in Humboldt County. I think they even run bus tours there from downtown San Francisco if you don't want to drive.


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## v v

Thanks everyone for the help, advice and encouragement, will come back to this in a week or so if that's ok.

So we're planned and have tickets bought up until arriving in LA, thought a little around what we should do while there and must now make arrangements to get back to London, and that has to start with when.

Before we could get to that (luckily) we discussed was it possible to get out to sea for whale watching from somewhere near LA? Now that Rosie has found sea-sick pills that work there's no stopping her new lifetime ambition to watch as many whales close-up as is humanly possible, then yet another random event intervened.

In the days leading up to getting our Cunard and Amtrak tickets she read somewhere that Baja California is one of the world's best spots for winter (N Hemisphere) whale watching, she thought 'It's not that far from LA surely?'

Without saying a word she worked out how far from LA to central Baja, roughly how we could get there, that hotels were more reasonably priced than many places we go, and that (for me) Baja has some of the largest cacti in the world, that was to draw me in to her plans.

Rosie explained all this while I'm using likely test dates to arrange tickets back to either Washington or New York, using at least 4 routes with train, train and bus or train and bus and auto being on the agenda. It was now starting to sound like our version of the movie Trains Boats Buses Planes and Automobiles.

Baja now needed checking out, we know less than nothing about any part of Mexico apart from it has a high murder rate, and no, not being flippant. The biggest problem of including another country on the itinerary is it opens up a whole new world of possibilities, lots of research needed.

That's on-going still but we have allocated enough time to have days for whale watching, maybe one for cacti, and maybe 5-7 more to return to the USA early or continue into mainland Mexico... crossing into Mexico by Greyhound could be fun, the return maybe more interesting, Mexican long distance buses, live Mariachi music, Tequila and more important the Agave succulent that it comes from plus a city with the delicious name of Guadalajara are currently a fascination for us, watch this space...

Due to Mexico we have chosen to take the simplest return to New York, via a stopover in Washington. OK it's not the simplest exactly but most of the way is on the TE in the comfort of a roomette, well at least to Normal, IL. There we will transfer by bus to the famed Indianapolis station to catch the Cardinal.

Two full days in Washington, we want to see things we haven't on previous visits in particular inside the Capitol and the new-ish African-American museum, then an NER train up to NYC to get our favourite airline back to London.

The return is now all booked and paid for, so now we know we can get to LA and get back again to London, right on time to catch up with the Brexit story.


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## Bob Dylan

Tips for Mexico Jamie:

It's a Looooong Bus ride or Drive through the Desert from Tijiuana,B.C. to La Paz,B.C.( But Mexican Delujo LD Buses are Much Better than US Buses).

Look into Flying or else going with a,Tour Group, Eco-Tourism is Huge in Mexico now,especially Whale Watching.

The Ferry that runs between La Paz and the Mainland of Mexico is expensive since it was sold by the Mexican Government to Japanese Interests.( There used to be an Overnight Passenger/Vehicle Ferry between Cabo San Lucas and Puerto Vallarta).if interested in visiting the Mainland from La Paz I'd Fly to Guadalajara!!( Highway 15 from Nogales to Guadalajara is Very Dangerous!!)

The Tequila Factories and Farms that supply them are located in the Village of Tequila,Jalisco outside of the Metropolis of Guadalajara.

There are many tours for Tourists from Guadalajara, but the best way to get there is the Tequila Train that runs between Guadalajara and Tequila.Its one of 2 Mexican Passenger Trains left, the other being the Great Copper Canyon ( Bigger than the Grand Canyon)Train between Los Mochos and Chihuahua City, which sadly is guarded by the Mexican Army since the Cartels and Bandidos have taken over the Mountains on this Route.


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## E60JPC

If v v and his wife are going to take the ferry across the Gulf of California from La Paz to Topolobampo, they can then ride the El Chepe train across the Copper Canyon route to Chihuahua. From there, they can take a bus to El Paso, TX, then on to Amtrak's Sunset Limited/Texas Eagle (# 422) eastward. That would be epic!


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## Bob Dylan

E60JPC said:


> If v v and his wife are going to take the ferry across the Gulf of California from La Paz to Topolobampo, they can then ride the El Chepe train across the Copper Canyon route to Chihuahua. From there, they can take a bus to El Paso, TX, then on to Amtrak's Sunset Limited/Texas Eagle (# 422) eastward. That would be epic!


You got that right, I did that very trip in both directions back in the 80s( except I rode the Train between Juarez and Chihuahua City!)


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## caravanman

Only just noticed this pre-trip report. My report on my QM 2 Transatlantic trip starts here, if you are interested. (I had a blast!)

http://discuss.amtraktrains.com/index.php?/topic/61210-southampton-all-aboard/?hl=%2Ball+%2Baboard+%2Bsouthampton

Ed.


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## v v

Hello Ed

Thanks for posting the link, was getting round to contacting you anyway as Bob suggested. We're also booked for the Queen Mary 2, just the mid-winter version, so maybe the ocean will be more 'interesting' ? Liked your bow-tie, is it something you wear all the time or just when you're on the QM2?

How did you find a week of shipboard life? Too long, too short, just right? Is there more to do than you have time for or is it all 'how many hours before the next meal?'.

Do I need to buy a tie? tend not to own such things. Can we get to the formal restaurant without dressing up or are we destined to eat all meals in a café? We've never met but know you are a budget traveller as are we most of the time, was it just interesting to enter a travel world you are not normally in or did it feel too posh and alien?

What's your best tip for us?

Last question (for now). We both want to know why you booked the QM2, it's outside your regular mode of travel perhaps by a great deal, why did you decide to stump up extra cash to live on a big ship for a week?

Really interested to read your answers, thanks.


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## v v

Alice said:


> The redwoods are gorgeous in winter and the parks are much less crowded than in summer. You have to decide whether you want the wide ones (Sequoia and Yosemite) or the tall ones (along the coast). I'm assuming you mean the inland species.
> 
> YARTS runs year round from Merced to Yosemite Valley, and you can get from LA to Merced by Amtrak.
> 
> To get to Sequoia in winter, you need a car, and you need to carry chains or have 4wd and snow tires. Sequoia is where all of the really big trees are. Some car rental agencies in the LA area have ski packages that include appropriate vehicles for driving in snow.
> 
> There are plenty of outdoor winter activities in both Yosemite and Sequoia to spend weeks, so don't fret about that. The web has numerous recommendations for loop trips encompassing Sequoia, Kings Canyon (adjoins Sequoia and also has big redwoods) and Yosemite, including winter trips. People I've taken up have been blown away by the scenery, there isn't anything else like it.
> 
> I recommend trying to fit in redwoods if at all feasible. It will be a great way to unwind after the madhouse of the Rose Parade.
> 
> (Note: Hats of to your friend Milton. Tease your friends back home with selfies of yourselves enjoying the sunshine in shorts and T-shirts. If you get a chance, tour the floats while they are still decorating them before the parade.)


Thank you Alice and MARC Rider, took the info you supplied and came up with something that worked for us, will write re the plan following this post.



MARC Rider said:


> I've been to a sequoia grove in Yosemite and the coast redwoods in the North Coast. I personally think the coast redwoods are a better spectacle. The forest is other worldly, like something out of lord of the rings. Also, despite being further north, there's no snow, but it could be raining pretty hard. The other problem is that they're hundreds of miles out of the way from LA. There are groves south of San Francisco, Muir Woods, in Marin County right to the north of the city is pretty nice, though not as spectacular as the stuff in Humboldt County. I think they even run bus tours there from downtown San Francisco if you don't want to drive.






Bob Dylan said:


> Tips for Mexico Jamie:
> 
> It's a Looooong Bus ride or Drive through the Desert from Tijiuana,B.C. to La Paz,B.C.( But Mexican Delujo LD Buses are Much Better than US Buses).
> 
> Look into Flying or else going with a,Tour Group, Eco-Tourism is Huge in Mexico now,especially Whale Watching.
> 
> The Ferry that runs between La Paz and the Mainland of Mexico is expensive since it was sold by the Mexican Government to Japanese Interests.( There used to be an Overnight Passenger/Vehicle Ferry between Cabo San Lucas and Puerto Vallarta).if interested in visiting the Mainland from La Paz I'd Fly to Guadalajara!!( Highway 15 from Nogales to Guadalajara is Very Dangerous!!)
> 
> The Tequila Factories and Farms that supply them are located in the Village of Tequila,Jalisco outside of the Metropolis of Guadalajara.
> 
> There are many tours for Tourists from Guadalajara, but the best way to get there is the Tequila Train that runs between Guadalajara and Tequila.Its one of 2 Mexican Passenger Trains left, the other being the Great Copper Canyon ( Bigger than the Grand Canyon)Train between Los Mochos and Chihuahua City, which sadly is guarded by the Mexican Army since the Cartels and Bandidos have taken over the Mountains on this Route.


Hello Bob, some of what you experienced is no longer available, but some is. We haven't finalised that part of the journey yet but you gave us some good pointers.



E60JPC said:


> If v v and his wife are going to take the ferry across the Gulf of California from La Paz to Topolobampo, they can then ride the El Chepe train across the Copper Canyon route to Chihuahua. From there, they can take a bus to El Paso, TX, then on to Amtrak's Sunset Limited/Texas Eagle (# 422) eastward. That would be epic!


EP60JPC it wont work quite like that as we need to return to LA as we'll be leaving bags there. We'll also get to spend another few days with Milton.


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## v v

Another couple of episodes have now been added to the journey after our arrival in LA. The Rose Parade, yes! we do enjoy the odd madhouse Alice, and a journey as far north as Monterey CA and back again. There are also outline plans for the start of the Mexico adventure too.

Milton has ordered us all (5) tickets for the south side of Colorado Blvd (near the start), we'll settle up with him when we arrive. Apparently we have to arrive very early, 3 -5 am which is genuinely early in particular for New Year's Day. We still have to work out how to volunteer for the previous day's float building/decorating, but we're getting there.

For a few years now have wanted to watch a college football match live, but the ticket prices are eye watering for this Rose Bowl game so this is not the game for us to go to. Maybe a sports bar will be the place to watch? Anyone know of a good one in or near to Canoga Park.

Next up was how to get to see Redwoods or Sequoia in winter, this proved interesting. The Sequoia National Park and Yosemite are the places to go, but both will have almost guaranteed snow all winter. The parks rules state you cannot enter either of these parks unless you have snow chains either with you or fitted, depending on the snow conditions. Driving in snow is not a problem for us, have to do it every year in Europe, but here's the rub. No car rental company will insure their rental cars if snow chains are fitted. Apparently a few years ago some would allow it, now none will. That excluded getting to the Sequoias in winter.

On to Redwoods. We now know there are many places in California to see these trees, the tallest in the world. After several hours research it became clear that the place to go is Humboldt County, just as MARC Rider wrote. That there is more than one major stand in the area and they appear to be the most impressive too, all this was bearing out the info from MR. Two of the best are either side of Orick CA, so the place to head for.

Checked out the train schedule and see that from LA we would arrive at Dunsmuir in the middle of the night, not the best as Milton will be with us and he's not quite as young as he was. We couldn't work out something that allowed us to travel and arrive by late evening at worse, or if we could get off the CS earlier it would be a big drive north and back again. As Rosie and I often say, a journey has to have a flow, and nothing we could arrange taking all factors into account would make this flow.

Next transferred our thoughts to Muir Woods, just north of San Francisco. Again no flow. Arrive in the city, rent a car and a hotel room. OK so far but what's happened to SF hotel room prices. We've stayed there 3 times now, but checking for room rates in early January 2019 the prices for the same hotels we stayed at had gone up 25 - 45%, that's taking the pee in under a year since we last booked there. Can we blame it on the tech companies?

So third choice had flow, but do understand the Redwoods may only be second best? Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park makes life easy for our party, it certainly looks beautiful and our transport works very well. We visited Salinas and Monterey earlier this year and very much liked both cities, but in particular Monterey, the bay and peninsular coast. The seals by the Fisherman's Wharf are amazing, sleeping as they do perched on just points of rock sticking out of the water, the town is laid back and relaxed, well out of season it was, and the peninsular is beautiful and the hotels reasonable. The best is Milton has never been there so a big treat for him.

We've ended up with the Coast Starlight Business Class to Salinas (one of our favourite train rides), Thruway bus to Monterey, hotel on the edge of downtown, and easy to collect a car from the Monterey Airport. We'll stay 2 nights then drive the Big Sur via the PBS State Park, stop over in San Luis Obispo (one of our favourite towns), then continue south keeping as close to the shoreline rail track as possible and definitely stopping at Surf Station California (is that not one of the best station names anywhere?) to get a few photos of it's location, then continue to Santa Barbara for afternoon tea or an evening meal, back to Milton's.

Mexico 3 days later. We have decided on a direction and part of the route. Amtrak and Greyhound into Tijuana, overnight there and then a long distance express bus to Guadalajara about 30 - 34 hours. It is a long bus journey but we're up for it, should arrive in Guadalajara for the weekend.

We've listened Bob, so may fly from Guadalajara to La Paz, but may also get a bus back up to Topolobampo and ferry across La Paz (as per E60JPC but the opposite way round) as it's a bit more exciting. From La Paz make our way northwards slowly to enjoy what we started our Mexico journey for, whale watching and giant cacti, then back to Tijuana and LA.

For Mexico we are going to travel very light, we want to be able to not have any hold bags and be quick to re-act. Our winter clothes and QM2 bowtie will be left with Milton, he thought our journey was 'fascinating' but declined to join us.

C'est la vie


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## Bob Dylan

Great plan Jaime! I'm sure that Rosie and you will enjoy the adventures, but as you know, I'm not a fan of the Long Distance Busess even though Mexican Deluxe Busess are much Better than the Long Dog here!

Alice is a great resource for info on California, you may want to PM her. Jim


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## caravanman

Hi J and R,

I already wanted to go back to America in 2015, as my plans the year before had not worked out. Searching for airfares I found that the price of flights in August was pretty steep. Some years previously I had met someone who mentioned she had crossed from Europe to US on a cargo ship, and I thought that a great adventure to try.

Somehow on the web I came across not cargo, but transatlantic passenger ships, and so to the QM2. Contacting an agent, rather than booking direct, I was able to find a good crossing date, and to extend my stay in America by a couple of months before availing of the included return airfare. I paid a good deal more than if I flew, but the total was cheap for what it was, one person in a double cabin, only about £750, if I remember correctly. (I will check later if I can find my old paperwork.)

I took the sea crossing for a sense of adventure, trying a new mode of travel. Finances have nose dived since then, so it is back to economy flights from now on!

It is a bit like role play for a week, I don't think everyone takes the "posh" bit too seriously, and I enjoyed the experience very much. Not sure I would ever want to "cruise" though, other than taking a ship as a voyage, from A to B.

There are the posh formal dinning rooms, if you book an expensive QM2 cabin, you get to dine in the very posh rooms. It is expected that you "dress" for the evenings aboard ship, after about 6pm jeans and tee shirts are not welcome garb. There is the option to eat in more casual surroundings also, as well as restaurants where you can enjoy other types of food, such as oriental dishes.

You are expected to wear a jacket and tie in the evenings, (and probably trousers too!). I just bought a cheap jacket and trousers from the Oxfam charity shop, and chucked them away once I got ashore. Together with a couple of white £3 Primark shirts, and my bow tie, I was good to go.






(The bow tie was a souvenier from running my fancy dress costume hire shop for 25 years, not my everyday wear.



)

Lots to do aboard ship, dancing lessons, cinemas, shows, talks and lectures, tours of the ships kitchens, etc. I enjoyed my walks round the deck in summer, not sure how that would be in December. They give everyone a daily "newspaper" which lists the next days activities also. They have staff who are there to help you enjoy the facilities if you wish to partake.

You can post a letter or card onboard the ship, which might be an amusing souvenier for someone.

We did see dolphins, and arriving by ship to New York was magical too. An interesting once in a lifetime experience for me. The fact that one is traversing thousands of miles of ocean is not always evident, as the scenery does not change much from day to day.

Have a look at the Cunard website, I believe they have some info on what to wear, and what to expect.

Tips.. Bring a book to read, and don't eat too much at breakfast, there are many more great meals to enjoy each day. Don't forget the afternoon tea also, which I found to be a bit of a hoot!

There was internet available, quite expensive and not very good I heard folk say, never bothered myself.

I am sure you will have a great time aboard!

Ed.


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## v v

Enjoyed your reply, in particular you wearing your Oxfam clothes on board then dumping them. I think you are an inspiration to some of us.

Yes there's loads and loads of online info on the Cunard site but wanted to hear from the horses mouth, and trust you to tell it as it is. We are really looking forward to it for similar reasons to you, the adventure of experiencing something new, travelling that distance by ship (about the same number of hours as Moscow to Vladivostok), and arriving in New York City by water.

We're not in the expensive cabins but did get a balcony as we do like the ocean even when it's rough. The cost for the two of us was a little more than double what you paid but doesn't include a return air fare.

Thanks Ed


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## Bob Dylan

Nice get Jaime! I can picture Rosie and you all dolled up in your "Best" having tea with the Swells.

I did something similar in Victoria,BC @ the Empress Hotel @ the urging of my late Canadian wife. It was a grand experience that I'll always remember, since We were probably the Youngest and Poorest folks there!


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## v v

Here's the start of an update as it's only just over 4 weeks until we are off to Southampton, UK. A full schedule will get published too as soon as there is time, but time is very limited at the moment.

In the nearly 3 months since last writing here an amount has changed, in particular re Mexico and potential border issues, so we are trying to keep up with what's current in that difficult situation.

Ed, have just seen you are in India at the moment, you're not slowing down at all are you. Hope you have your best travels yet.

Tried to emulate your idea of using charity/thrift shops for a suitable QM2 dining outfit, but up until 10 days ago had only managed 8 bow ties and 1 pair of posh shoes. Have to say did buy new 6 pairs of underpants and a black travel blazer that may get me in if they don't look too close, and just this week a pair of trousers and two check shirts. Can't help but feel that I'm lacking a little in the wardrobe department.

Rosie is doing well re outfits for this crossing, selective in what she's buying and some friends and relatives have offered her the most swish or sparkly of their own wardrobes, so she'll be able to eat no problem.

Alice, as an LA expert can you recommend any quirky or less known things to do, see or experience in or vaguely around LA. On a previous visit we were at the Huntingdon Library, the cactus garden blew us away. We also visited the La Brea tar pits which we unexpectantly enjoyed. That they are in central LA is so implausible added to it. Had a lot of fun down on the tacky part of Venice beach too, we enjoy most stuff. But only locals know the real places to go maybe you can point us in a direction please.

Bob, or anybody who has up to date tabs on the US/Mexican border, is there a website that enables us to get a feel for what's happening there? We intend(ed) to cross at Tijuana by walking over or a Greyhound to the Tijuana central bus station, but if the border is closed or it takes days instead of hours to cross then we'll divert.

Back to the start. We're now ticketed through from a UK rail halt/tiny station in the UK called South Woodham Ferrers, Essex. Will make 3 changes including using the London underground to get to Southampton. Next day out to the QM2 by noon to watch embarkation even though we board later during the afternoon. 

After 7 days of indolence arriving early morning at Red Hook Brooklyn cruise terminal to the south of Manhattan. We will have had a close-up look at the Liberty statue and Ellis Island from the deck of a ship arriving from the 'old world'. We've had a fascination about this since we visited Ireland and in particular the main migrant embarkation port of Cork at Cobh (also Titanic left from there).

The migration museum in Cobh is very moving, enough that about a year ago we also visited Ellis Island to try to understand what it meant to the millions of immigrants getting to their promised land and to learn how they fared. Now we arrive on a ship from England in ridiculous luxury.

Later that day the US adventure starts, more later.


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## trainman74

v v said:


> Alice, as an LA expert can you recommend any quirky or less known things to do, see or experience in or vaguely around LA. On a previous visit we were at the Huntingdon Library, the cactus garden blew us away. We also visited the La Brea tar pits which we unexpectantly enjoyed. That they are in central LA is so implausible added to it. Had a lot of fun down on the tacky part of Venice beach too, we enjoy most stuff. But only locals know the real places to go maybe you can point us in a direction please.




The first thing that comes to mind is the Museum of Jurassic Technology, a very quirky museum/art exhibition.

And have you been to the Griffith Observatory on previous trips? (It's not particularly quirky, but it's such a well-known L.A. institution that's been in a lot of movies.)

Other than that, this community-sourced list on Atlas Obscura looks like it would be a good place for you to look for things that might be of interest.


----------



## v v

Thanks trainman, that Atlas Obscura certainly has some very weird places and things. Did find a number of places that we will investigate further but most are a little too dark for us.

Visited the Griffiths Observatory but could well make a second visit, as we will to the Huntingdon Library. Due to the uncertain Mexico border situation we may have 7-10 days extra in the LA area than we thought we would, we'll wait another week or two before we decide what to do. Also thought about travelling to another part of the US for a week, or even somewhere outside of the US, we'll see.

Thanks again, much appreciated.


----------



## flitcraft

You might consider the King Tut exhibit at the California Science Center, which is there thru January. It's the biggest such exhibit ever to tour the world, and supposedly the last time these artifacts will leave Egypt, since they are building a massive museum in Cairo.  We made a special weekend trip to LA just for the exhibit, which was interesting not only for the artifacts themselves but also for the science behind the discovery and preservation of them.  You can book online via the California Science Center website...


----------



## Bob Dylan

v v said:


> Thanks trainman, that Atlas Obscura certainly has some very weird places and things. Did find a number of places that we will investigate further but most are a little too dark for us.
> 
> Visited the Griffiths Observatory but could well make a second visit, as we will to the Huntingdon Library. Due to the uncertain Mexico border situation we may have 7-10 days extra in the LA area than we thought we would, we'll wait another week or two before we decide what to do. Also thought about travelling to another part of the US for a week, or even somewhere outside of the US, we'll see.
> 
> Thanks again, much appreciated.


Jamie: Please dont go to Mexico,things are not good there and now the Caravan is coming to Tiajuana thru the Baja with our Maximum Leader sending the Army to the Border to confront them, plus a New President is,taking over in Mexico and people are getting killed again!

Consider Canada, Vancouver and Victoria are  great Cities  and easy places to visit from Seattle.


----------



## cpotisch

Bob Dylan said:


> Jamie: Please dont go to Mexico,things are not good there and now the Caravan is coming to Tiajuana thru the Baja with our Maximum Leader sending the Army to the Border to confront them, plus a New President is,taking over in Mexico and people are getting killed again!
> 
> Consider Canada, Vancouver and Victoria are  great Cities  and easy places to visit from Seattle.


Yeah I think, as nice as Mexico is, it might make sense to hold out on going there for at least a little bit.


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## flitcraft

Another problem with going to Mexico is thst the US just closed four of the border crossing traffic lanes, leading to very long border waits becoming even longer.  We are headed to San Diego by train this spring and were originally thinking about Baja. We've scrapped those plans, sadly.


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## Mystic River Dragon

Jamie, I'm assuming you and Rosie will be out in the wild west for most of the trip, but if you happen to be on the east coast for part of it and go through Philadelphia, I would love to meet you both there for lunch (if I'm not traveling myself at that time--you know when you try to visit AUers, half the time they are not home!  ).

Meanwhile, I wish you both a lovely cruise!


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## flitcraft

I love your posts here. Planning for adventure travel requires flexibility and willingness to go to Plan B or even C more often than not. Love both your nimbleness and your sharing that part of the adventure with us. I think the planning and anticipation of a trip is often nearly as satisfying as the trip itself. Now you've hooked me on the anticipation part of your trip. I can't wait to hear the story of how it went!


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## v v

Thank you everybody, we do value your input and have 95% decided to cancel Baja. Makes a mess of the title of this thread which probably accounts for the 5% undecided. We're working on alternatives and hope we'll come to a conclusion by this weekend as there isn't too much time to make alternative arrangements.

Of course we have to consult Milton too, he's not only a man of few words but also of few emails too!

Rosie and I just love this forum, not only helpful, knowledgeable, but caring too, thanks.


----------



## v v

Mystic River Dragon said:


> Jamie, I'm assuming you and Rosie will be out in the wild west for most of the trip, but if you happen to be on the east coast for part of it and go through Philadelphia, I would love to meet you both there for lunch (if I'm not traveling myself at that time--you know when you try to visit AUers, half the time they are not home!  ).
> 
> Meanwhile, I wish you both a lovely cruise!




That sounds like a great idea and the thought is mutual, but how to make it work?

We arrive in Washington the evening of Sunday 27 January and leave morning on Wednesday 30. Arrive in NYC (I think via Philadelphia?) on an NER train, where we have around 3 or 4 hours before leaving for JFK.

Can we invite you to lunch or afternoon tea at the African American museum or near (not at) the White House on either the Monday or Tuesday?


----------



## Ronbo

Here’s an idea if you’re going to stay in the Los Angeles area longer....go to Long Beach and check out the Queen Mary ship there, take a boat ride to Catalina Island. Maybe get to do some whale watching that way, apparently the best time is January thru March. Tours are available from Catalina.


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## cpotisch

v v said:


> That sounds like a great idea and the thought is mutual, but how to make it work?
> 
> We arrive in Washington the evening of Sunday 27 January and leave morning on Wednesday 30. Arrive in NYC (I think via Philadelphia?) on an NER train, where we have around 3 or 4 hours before leaving for JFK.
> 
> Can we invite you to lunch or afternoon tea at the African American museum or near (not at) the White House on either the Monday or Tuesday?


I recommend coordinating this via PMs, instead of out in the open for anyone to see.


----------



## v v

Ronbo said:


> Here’s an idea if you’re going to stay in the Los Angeles area longer....go to Long Beach and check out the Queen Mary ship there, take a boat ride to Catalina Island. Maybe get to do some whale watching that way, apparently the best time is January thru March. Tours are available from Catalina.


We have a further 8 or 9 days in LA, so far only around 4 of them are booked with something to do. Never realised there was organised whale watching from Catalina, Rosie will check that out and says thank you.



cpotisch said:


> I recommend coordinating this via PMs, instead of out in the open for anyone to see.


Yes you are right, I don't think any more real detail would appear anyway. It's probably a very long shot that it can happen but who knows.

Thanks


----------



## trainman74

If you don't end up going all the way to Catalina, there are other whale-watching options. I've been on one of this company's 2-hour whale-watching cruises, which are out of Newport Beach. We didn't see any whales, but there were other things to look at, particularly dolphins that followed the boat for quite a while.


----------



## v v

*London to Baja California ~ across America*

Our hoped for schedule, here's what we know so far...

*Part I*​


*14 December 2018 -* Friday morning ~ South Woodham Ferrers (SOF) to Southampton Central...  via local 2 car train to Wickford, Essex ~ mainline train to Stratford, London ~ Tube  to Waterloo, London ~ mainline train to Southampton Central

*14 Dec -* Friday afternoon ~ local bus to hotel central Southampton

*15 Dec -* Saturday noon ~ Taxi to the QE2 Cruise Terminal, Dock gate 4, Southampton

*15 Dec -* Saturday 15:00 ~ Queen Mary 2 embarkation

*15 Dec -* Saturday c.18:00 ~ set sail across the North Atlantic in winter. From our cabin (stateroom) low down on deck 5 we'll have a close-up of the sea through panoramic windows. This is going to be 7 days of contrast to where we come from and our daily lives, can't wait...  especially Rosie.

*16 - 21 Dec *~ North Atlantic

For those interested here is a nuts and bolts description of what this QM2 Transatlantic crossing entails, it's all new to us. Some of you will recognise the author as better known for compiling his worldwide rail website, Mr Seat 61. He brings the same matter of fact detail to this traditional Liner crossing too.

https://www.seat61.com/queen-mary-2-transatlantic.htm

*22 Dec -* Saturday ~ Arrive in New York Bay early, c. 05:00 - 07:00 am. Past the Statue of Liberty, past Ellis Island, round Governors Island and into the Red Hook Brooklyn Cruise Terminal berth. We can elect to dis-embark very early or mid morning. Too early doesn't work well for where we are headed that morning so will try to grab breakfast before we go and leave later.

*22 Dec -* Saturday morning. If the weather is poor, raining or bitterly cold we take a taxi to our hotel in Tribeca. If it's fine winter weather we take the local NYC South Brooklyn Ferry from right next to the Cruise terminal to the Wall Street Pier, apparently some very good views?

Turn left out of the pier and walk along the East River walk to Whitehall St and the subway entrance just a few meters/yards to the north. Subway through to Canal St, check into and leave a couple of small bags with the hotel then back to a different Canal St subway station/system about 300 m away (apparently there are 5 station/systems in Canal St) for a train to Penn Station where we'll check our large bag in for the next day's Amtrak Cardinal.

Then we're off to discover New York City at Christmas, with all the razzmatazz that goes with it. We're not usually interested in Christmas, at home will often see no-one or do too much, but we are interested in how this city celebrates it's Christmas so have planned a walk through an eclectic mix of sights in mid Manhattan.

*22 Dec -* Saturday afternoon/evening ~ walking mid Manhattan to some or all of these places...  Houdini Museum - New York Times Building - Times Square - Rockefeller Plaza (Radio City) - Trump Tower - Bergdorf Goodman - Bloomingdales - Urbanspace on Lex for food maybe - Chrysler Building - Grand Central Station - Empire State - Macy's - now booked for the last show of the day Radio City Rockettes Christmas Spectacular.

*23 Dec -* Sunday ~ Up early, leave for Penn Station at 04:45, ouch! Hope we can get a hot drink in the Acela Lounge before the real adventure starts, trains to LA.

*New York Penn to Chicago Union Station* - Depart 06:45am Amtrak 51 Cardinal - Sleeper   ~   Arrive CHI 10:00am Monday 24 Dec

*24 Dec -* Monday ~ Chicago. If we arrive on-time leave carry-on bags in the Metropolitan Lounge, then another walk this time to the lake at Millennium Park. Back to Union Station and if time lunch at Lou Mitchell's (if open) on Jackson as there'll be no lunch on the Southwest Chief.

*24 Dec -* Monday ~ *Chicago Union Station to Los Angeles Union Station *- Depart 14:50pm Amtrak 3 Southwest Chief - Sleeper   ~   Arrive  LAX 08:00am Wednesday 26 Dec

*25 Dec -* Tuesday ~ We deliberately chose to be on a long distance train on Christmas day, just for the fun of it. As mentioned above we rarely mark Christmas day but hope this one is memorable.

*26 Dec -* Wednesday ~ LA. We've asked Milton not to be met at Union Station. He's not a morning person and would have to leave home at 06:00am if the Chief is on-time, and that's not fair. So it is the Ventura County Line train or even a Pacific Surfliner up to Chatsworth station, from there a short bus ride down to Roscoe / De Soto close to Milton's home.

All day for a catch-up on all our news, plenty to talk about.

If this plan works we will have travelled with minor stop overs from central France via the UK to Los Angeles without flying   -   7710 miles / 12408 km

*Part II*​


*27 Dec -* Thursday ~ Deja vu. Outside forces have _'encouraged'_ us to book a night onboard the Queen Mary I at Long Beach CA. Yes it's a tough life sometimes, although at this rate we wont be travelling for another 3 years to give us time to recoup our finances. It will be strange only 5 days after leaving one QM to board another, but this time with known great company.

*28 Dec -* Friday ~ leaving the QM I and visiting Laguna Woods

*29 Dec -* Saturday ~ LA area  ?  undecided

*30 Dec -* Sunday ~ Volunteering for float building. Afternoon /evening at the La Canada Flintridge Tournament of Roses float building event. It's under the I 210 San Fernando Freeway at Hampton Rd and Foothill Blvd. If you are in the area come along and one of us will try to sell you a T shirt, all for a good cause. One of us will be working at the Floatique!

*31 Dec -* Monday ~ Recovering

*1 January 2019 -* Tuesday, New Year's Day. Milton has pre-booked grandstand seats for the Rose Parade for the 5 of us, we have to get there very early. He has all the arrangements in hand which is very nice not to have to plan that day. Heard there's a sort of football match on later too, aiming to find a good sports bar to watch the match in. Any suggestions of a good venue vaguely near to Roscoe Blvd?

*2 Jan -* Wednesday ~ Taking it easy and getting ready to head north

*3 Jan -* Thursday ~ *Van Nuys Station to Monterey Transit Plaza -* Depart 10:40am Amtrak 14 Coast Starlight - Business Class   ~   Arrive Salinas 18:28pm same day. Transfer at Salinas Station to Amtrak 3614 Thruway Bus. Depart 18:35pm   ~   Arrive Monterey Transit Plaza 19:25pm same day.

Transfer to hotel with a short taxi ride.

*4 Jan -* Friday ~ We like Monterey based on one out of season visit, Milton has never visited and is curious about our glowing description. Four things on the agenda for today. Walk through downtown, visit the seals in the harbour again, visit the aquarium (neither Rosie or I have visited an aquarium), and collect a car from the airport in the evening.

*5 Jan -* Saturday ~ Off after breakfast down to the coastal Redwood stands in Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park. This, for all of us is the highlight of this trip. The remainder of the day a drive down the Big Sur to our lodgings at San Luis Obispo, possibly our favourite town in the USA.

*6 Jan -* Sunday ~ A gentle amble south sticking with the coast as far as possible, with at least one detour from Hwy 1. That's to Surf Station to the west of Lompoc, ending with returning to Milton's place in Winnetka.

*7 Jan -* Monday ~ Catch up with chores and return the car, getting ready for the off tomorrow

*Part III*​


*8 Jan -* Tuesday ~ Pack light for the next journey starting today in the late afternoon. Now it's buses. The initial journey from LA up to Denver is across the Rockies by road, a first for us and even better as it's winter.

*LA Greyhound Bus Station to Denver Greyhound Bus Station -* Depart 18:40pm Greyhound Schedule 1684   ~   Arrive Denver 17:45pm Wednesday 9 Jan 

*9 Jan -* Wednesday ~ Arrive early evening, eat then to hotel

*10 Jan -* Thursday ~ Leave bags at the hotel and spend the day on two visits we missed out on last time. History Colorado Museum and the Colorado Capitol. The US has some magnificent capitols which we try to visit if we are nearby. Eat early as another evening Greyhound to catch.

*Denver Greyhound Bus Station to Austin Greyhound Bus Station -* Depart 19:35pm Greyhound Schedule 7309   ~   Arrive Austin 17:05pm Friday 11 Jan

*11 Jan -* Friday ~ Arrive Austin and if it all works out we get to take Bob Dylan to dinner after dropping our bags at the hotel, we are both looking forward to that.

*12 Jan -* Saturday ~ Various we'd like to do in Austin as Rosie wasn't too well during our first visit.

*13 Jan -* Sunday ~ Adieu to Bob and off to the airport. An afternoon flight to Dallas where we transfer to the San Jose del Cabo plane.

*Austin to Dallas Fort Worth - *transfer* - Dallas Fort Worth to San José del Cabo*   ~   American Airlines   Depart AUS 16:34pm   -   Arrive SJD 21:28pm

*13 Jan -* Sunday ~ Shuttle from airport directly to hotel in San José del Cabo (SJD). At last we are in Baja California (Sur), this is a staging post to travel further north over the next few days.  

*14 Jan -* Monday ~ San Jose to La Paz. A quick look around San José del Cabo then a bus through to La Paz. Maybe another few hours walking some of La Paz  and arranging a trip for the following day out to the Isla Espirito Santo, Rosie has her heart set on this.

*15 Jan -* Tuesday ~ La Paz. The Island(s) hopefully, then relaxing and preparing for the bus up to Guerrero Negro the following morning

*16 Jan -* Wednesday ~ La Paz to Guerrero Negro. Undecided at the moment which of the 3 buses to choose, mainly it's what time we want to arrive than leave on the 12 hour bus ride. We are told Mexican LD buses are often quite superior to Greyhound, sounds like a touch of luxury to us.  Of course if we are not happy with the general Baja situation we could be heading back to the airport at SJD instead?

*17 Jan -* Thursday ~ For the next 5 or 6 days everything is provisional, this part of the itinerary will only be known on the day, so the next part of this schedule is how we hope it will turn out, reality may be different. At this point our main future deadline is the 23 January when we are due to ride the Amtrak 422 Texas Eagle from LA back to the north.

*17 - 22 Jan -* Baja / LA area, no fixed plans as yet

*Part IV*​


*23 Jan -* Wednesday ~ Preparing to leave Milton and LA, never know if we'll be back again. Evening train to Normal, what a destination.

*23 Jan -* Wednesday ~ *Los Angeles Union Station to Washington Union Station *- Depart 22:00pm Amtrak 422 Texas Eagle - Sleeper   ~   Arrive Bloomington-Normal 11:01am Saturday 26 Jan. The Amtrak station is actually in Normal, not Bloomington.

*26 Jan -* Saturday ~ *Bloomington-Normal Station to Indianapolis Station* - Depart 15:20pm Amtrak 8890 Thruway Bus   ~   Arrive IND 19:30pm Saturday 26 Dec. We have been warned about Indianapolis station, some folk are for and some against. Soon have our own opinions.

*26 Jan -* Saturday ~ *Indianapolis Station to Washington Union Station* - Depart 23:59pm Amtrak 50 Cardinal - Coach   ~   Arrive WAS 18:19pm Sunday 27 Jan. Think we will get to see the gorge in daylight?

*27 Jan -* Sunday ~ Evening. Arrive Washington DC, subway across to our hotel very close to the Watergate Building. This is turning out to be a tour of major past and present political sights and events, and now we are at the epicentre!

*28 Jan -* Monday ~ Today we hopefully get to visit the National Museum of African American History & Culture, something we are looking forward to. It's obviously popular as it's difficult to book a visiting time due to being so busy. Here's hoping... 

Update 4 December: In January timed visits are only required at weekends, weekdays are 'walk in' days. Advice from a member of the Washington visitor center who has visited this museum more than once is arrive early. Apparently at any time this is a very popular museum and visitors spend quite a lot of time there.

*29 Jan -* Tuesday ~ It's the day for the Capitol and another peek at the White House. Currently Europe is fascinated by American politics so having a chance to visit such an important parliament and view one of the most important homes on the planet is a must.  

*30 Jan -* Wednesday ~ Leaving Washington late morning with an NER train. *Washington Union Station to New York Penn Station* - Depart 10:10 am Amtrak 174 Northeast Regional - Coach  ~  Arrive New York 13:35pm same day

By this evening we should be on a plane back to London, England, but we think we have enough time to visit Juanita and Bradley in New York for a cup of tea. We met Juanita on the Australian LD train The Ghan a few years ago now, what a happy thing this long distance train travel is.

...  to be continued


----------



## SarahZ

Ice skating at Rockefeller Center (with its HUGE Christmas tree) is a stereotypical NYC Christmastime activity. [emoji4]

Also, the Rockettes Holiday show is extremely popular. The toy soldier routine is iconic and dates back to the ‘30s, I believe.


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## Mystic River Dragon

Jamie--

I sent you a PM--it took a few minutes, but it did appear on my screen, so hope you get it. If not, let me know here--thanks.


----------



## cpotisch

SarahZ said:


> Ice skating at Rockefeller Center (with its HUGE Christmas tree) is a stereotypical NYC Christmastime activity.


Yeah, this is a great example of stereotypes really not being an accurate representation of the "source material".


----------



## SarahZ

cpotisch said:


> Yeah, this is a great example of stereotypes really not being an accurate representation of the "source material". [emoji6]


Which is the exact definition of a stereotype. That’s why I used that word.


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## cpotisch

SarahZ said:


> Which is the exact definition of a stereotype. That’s why I used that word.


I understand that. I wasn't challenging you on it - just remarking on the fact that it is a really ridiculous misconception about real Christmas activities in NYC.


----------



## v v

cpotisch said:


> I understand that. I wasn't challenging you on it - just remarking on the fact that it is a really ridiculous misconception about real Christmas activities in NYC.


Dying to know what we should be looking for, can you give a few clues please.


----------



## v v

Mystic River Dragon said:


> Jamie--
> 
> I sent you a PM--it took a few minutes, but it did appear on my screen, so hope you get it. If not, let me know here--thanks.




Got it.


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## PVD

Depending on weather:  Sat is a matinee day for BWay theater, the booth for discount tickets at Times Sq often has good shows, but it is a peak tourist week....


----------



## v v

SarahZ said:


> Ice skating at Rockefeller Center (with its HUGE Christmas tree) is a stereotypical NYC Christmastime activity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, the Rockettes Holiday show is extremely popular. The toy soldier routine is iconic and dates back to the ‘30s, I believe.


Radio City Rockettes  booked!

Thanks Sarah, just what we were looking for but didn't know it.


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## ehbowen

Given current circumstances I would be all in favor of going north to British Columbia instead of south into Mexico. Vancouver is pretty enough, but Victoria (on Vancouver Island) is spectacular and there are good ferry or bus/ferry connections to and from Vancouver and Seattle. We stayed three nights at the Fairholme Manor which is an incredible bed & breakfast just a short walk from Government House. December and Canada may not seem the best combination, but I understand that proximity to the ocean moderates the bitter winters quite a bit.

Edit To Add: Plus, hey, you'll be able to say that you did it and survived (I hope!)!


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## SarahZ

v v said:


> Radio City Rockettes  booked!
> Thanks Sarah, just what we were looking for but didn't know it.


I’m so pleased! I hope you enjoy the show. [emoji2]


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## PVD

The Christmas Show at Radio City is a wonderful NYC tradition for many years....Radio City Music Hall is one of the great performance spaces in the world, and should be experienced, and the Christmas show is a great way to do that. Regardless of one' religious persuasions, you will only be a few blocks from St Patrick's Cathedral, which is particularly beautiful and welcoming at Christmas. the R/C tree (the story of how the tree tradition at R/c started is worth reading about) is in between.Radio City and St Patrick's... I loved the Queen Mary idea, especially since you will be arriving on one of her descendants, perhaps the last of the purpose built liners. The QM has such a marvelous history of service including major contributions to the defense of freedom....


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## flitcraft

Regarding the weather if you decide on Canada:  Canadian winters are justly renowned for ferocity, but that certainly does not apply to Vancouver and Victoria in British Columbia. Typically we in the maritime Pacific Northwest get only a handful of freezes per winter, and snow is so rare that most years we get none at all and when we do, it's gone before the local kids get a chance to have a snowball fight!  Victoria in particular is so mild that every year in February they tout one day where everyone goes out to count flowers in bloom--and the overall number is amazingly high!

That said, Victoria is kind of 'ye olde Englande' twee. If you don't care for knitted tea cosies on your teapots, it might not be your cuppa. (In the spirit of full disclosure, my Brit husband and I adore Victoria and Vancouver, for different reasons, and my late mother-in-law thought Victoria was the most charming place she'd ever been.)


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## JRR

Don’t miss the Christmas window displays at Saks. They are awesome!


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## oregon pioneer

This all sounds like a wonderful trip, that you will remember forever! I love everyone's suggestions. I remember fondly going to the Radio City Music Hall as a child, with my grandparents who lived in NYC.

On our last trip together, Hubby and I changed trains in LA on Christmas Day, from the Sunset Ltd to the Coast Starlight. They don't officially do anything special on the train any more, but you can always hope for a good attendant or dining car crew to make things nice and festive. It is definitely fun to coast through snowy towns with Christmas lights.

I hope you can post some photos of the cruise. I have always sort of wanted to do one, but probably never will, so I would love a vicarious experience. I especially want some photos of the borrowed and recycled finery that you dine in! :hi: Happy cruising...


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## v v

PVD said:


> The Christmas Show at Radio City is a wonderful NYC tradition for many years....Radio City Music Hall is one of the great performance spaces in the world, and should be experienced, and the Christmas show is a great way to do that. Regardless of one' religious persuasions, *you will only be a few blocks from St Patrick's Cathedral*, which is particularly beautiful and welcoming at Christmas. the R/C tree (the story of how the tree tradition at R/c started is worth reading about) is in between.Radio City and St Patrick's... I loved the Queen Mary idea, especially since you will be arriving on one of her descendants, perhaps the last of the purpose built liners. The QM has such a marvelous history of service including major contributions to the defense of freedom....


That's added to the walk, thank you



flitcraft said:


> Regarding the weather if you decide on Canada:  Canadian winters are justly renowned for ferocity, but that certainly does not apply to Vancouver and Victoria in British Columbia. Typically we in the maritime Pacific Northwest get only a handful of freezes per winter, and snow is so rare that most years we get none at all and when we do, it's gone before the local kids get a chance to have a snowball fight!  Victoria in particular is so mild that every year in February they tout one day where everyone goes out to count flowers in bloom--and the overall number is amazingly high!
> 
> That said, Victoria is kind of 'ye olde Englande' twee. If you don't care for knitted tea cosies on your teapots, it might not be your cuppa. (In the spirit of full disclosure, my Brit husband and I adore Victoria and Vancouver, for different reasons, and my late mother-in-law thought Victoria was the most charming place she'd ever been.)


Just firming up plans for the missing 10 days now but nothing is set as yet. You are the third or fourth person to mention BC on this thread, it must have a lot going for it.



JRR said:


> Don’t miss the Christmas window displays at Saks. They are awesome!


Noted and added to the walk, thanks



oregon pioneer said:


> This all sounds like a wonderful trip, that you will remember forever! I love everyone's suggestions. I remember fondly going to the Radio City Music Hall as a child, with my grandparents who lived in NYC.
> 
> On our last trip together, Hubby and I changed trains in LA on Christmas Day, from the Sunset Ltd to the Coast Starlight. They don't officially do anything special on the train any more, but you can always hope for a good attendant or dining car crew to make things nice and festive. It is definitely fun to coast through snowy towns with Christmas lights.
> 
> *I hope you can post some photos of the cruise. I have always sort of wanted to do one, but probably never will, so I would love a vicarious experience. I especially want some photos of the borrowed and recycled finery that you dine in!* :hi: Happy cruising...


Hello Jennifer

Photos will appear as will posts, but later not when onboard. The internet available on the ship is eye watering in cost so as with the Trans Siberian a couple of years ago we'll be out of contact for the same 7 days.

We'll do our best to give a flavour of the crossing, but funny thing is we've never wished to cruise and now it's happened. May for you too one day? As for clothes photos, is it ok while the clothes are laid out on the bed?


----------



## PVD

Saks is on the block directly south of St Patrick's, not too many added steps!


----------



## ehbowen

v v said:


> Just firming up plans for the missing 10 days now but nothing is set as yet. You are the third or fourth person to mention BC on this thread, it must have a lot going for it.


I don't know what your plans are as regards local transportation, but on our trip to Victoria in 2016 Hertz Rent-a-car took excellent care of us. They met us with our car at the stop where the bus from Vancouver dropped us off downtown, and when we returned the car they gave us a complimentary lift down to the dock to catch the high-speed Clipper ferry to Seattle. (Yes, we did give the driver a gratuity.)

An auto is helpful if you want to stay at a place such as the Fairholme Manor (which is a mile or so from the center of town) and explore more of the island; if you prefer to rely solely on public transportation you may want a place closer to downtown such as the famous Fairmont Empress.

Edit To Add: If you want to stay on the mainland for some or all of your Canadian stay, Vancouver has an excellent public transportation system in its Skytrain rail system and SeaBus ferries.


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## PVD

the movie and television production business certainly sees a lot in Vancouver (and its neighboring areas)....


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## oregon pioneer

v v said:


> We'll do our best to give a flavour of the crossing, but funny thing is we've never wished to cruise and now it's happened. May for you too one day? As for clothes photos, is it ok while the clothes are laid out on the bed?


I would love to see the clothes being worn, but I understand that sometimes you want to do it a different way. Laid out ready for the evening sounds charming as well. And I would not guess that internet access was available on board at any price!

I seriously doubt that I will ever go cruising (my list of things to do is much more active, and my budget barely stretches to land-cruising on Amtrak), but you are right, you never know what the next years or decades might bring.


----------



## PVD

transatlantic crossing and vacation cruising are not exactly the same , I'm not sure I'd do a week on the N Atlantic in the winter. Vacation cruising can be one of the better values in vacation travel today, depending on time of year and where you live....Where I live, I don't have to travel to get on a ship, and on certain weeks, I can get 7 days for $500-600 It would be very hard to match that any other way....


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## railiner

Just did a repositioning cruise from New York to New Orleans aboard the Norwegian Breakaway...booked it "last minute", and got aboard the 15 night cruise for less than $700....

Came home on the Crescent.   

I did a proper crossing aboard the QE2, in January of 2008, her last winter crossing (joined the "Winter Crossing Club"), from Soton to New York prior to her retirement.

On the first and last night, dress code was "informal" (a business suit), but the five nights in between were all "black tie"  

Things are a lot less formal aboard the QM2, nowadays....


----------



## v v

PVD said:


> transatlantic crossing and vacation cruising are not exactly the same , I'm not sure I'd do a week on the N Atlantic in the winter. Vacation cruising can be one of the better values in vacation travel today, depending on time of year and where you live....Where I live, I don't have to travel to get on a ship, and on certain weeks, I can get 7 days for $500-600 It would be very hard to match that any other way....


Can't argue with that.

We're looking for a 'rest' as so much going on this year and next and we're tired, so maybe having 7 days with not much we have to do will be just right.



railiner said:


> Just did a repositioning cruise from New York to New Orleans aboard the Norwegian Breakaway...booked it "last minute", and got aboard the 15 night cruise for less than $700....
> 
> Came home on the Crescent.
> 
> I did a proper crossing aboard the QE2, in January of 2008, her last winter crossing (joined the "Winter Crossing Club"), from Soton to New York prior to her retirement.
> 
> On the first and last night, dress code was "informal" (a business suit), but the five nights in between were all "black tie"
> 
> *Things are a lot less formal aboard the QM2, nowadays....  *


Bloody hell, could end eating in the café every day with our limited wardrobes!

As you both mention the upfront value is amazing, are the mandatory add-ons equally value for money though?


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## cpotisch

I don't completely get why cruises are so appealing, and why they are worth that much money. It takes around four days and costs thousands of dollars to cruise from New York to Europe. By contrast, I can fly from New York to, say, Amsterdam, for $170 each way, in about 7 hours. I would just rather save the money and get all that extra time at my destination.


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## PVD

It is more like a week to do a transatlantic crossing, which is very different than a cruise. Cruises are moving resorts that call on places people would like to visit, not a means of transport from point to point.  There are very few transatlantic cruises, most involving re positioning.  I can do a crossing on the Queen certain times of the year for under $1000, and the lowest level of accommodation is nicer than a sleeper bedroom. Food is certainly superior.  In June, I could have gone to Denver for my trip to USA Hockey in Colorado Springs in 4 hours for $200 each way  but I enjoy the train ride, so in June I took LSL and CZ out. and CZ and CL/NER home... time and price are not the only factors, if they were, this board would have a lot less stories to discuss.....


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## railiner

cpotisch said:


> I don't completely get why cruises are so appealing, and why they are worth that much money.


Have you ever been on one?  

I would suggest you check out this site, some time....but don't "get lost" there, and come back here... 

https://boards.cruisecritic.com/


----------



## cpotisch

railiner said:


> Have you ever been on one?
> 
> I would suggest you check out this site, some time....but don't "get lost" there, and come back here...
> 
> https://boards.cruisecritic.com/


Thanks.


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## PVD

We are very lucky in NYC that we have a very wide choice of destinations and trip lengths, as well lots of choices in terms of style and luxury level. I'm thinking about a Bahamas trip in January that would run me $100 a night. That's probably less than one way in a roomette to visit my sister in Phoenix (option 2). Between Brooklyn, Manhattan and NJ, we see a full range of ships at many price points. If I had to travel to travel, I'm not sure I would enjoy it quite as much, although a few years back, a friend of mine was offered such a bargain out of Boston that it was worth the NER trip and cab ride......


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## AmtrakBlue

Ive always felt it wasn’t worth the money for a cruise since I’m light eater. I figure most of the cost is for all that food.


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## PVD

_It depends, some of them have lots going on. Swimming pool, hot tub, movies, entertainment, activities, casino (not for me), and a chance to go somewhere I might not otherwise go to....but like anything else, it is not for everyone......_


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## DCAKen

cpotisch said:


> I don't completely get why cruises are so appealing, and why they are worth that much money. It takes around four days and costs thousands of dollars to cruise from New York to Europe. By contrast, I can fly from New York to, say, Amsterdam, for $170 each way, in about 7 hours. I would just rather save the money and get all that extra time at my destination.


It's all about the experience. What would you say to someone who said this?



> I don't completely get why trains are so appealing, and why they are worth that much money. It takes around four days and costs thousands of dollars to go from New York to California. By contrast, I can fly from New York to, say, Lost Angeles, for $170 each way, in about 7 hours. I would just rather save the money and get all that extra time at my destination.


----------



## Ronbo

PVD said:


> We are very lucky in NYC that we have a very wide choice of destinations and trip lengths, as well lots of choices in terms of style and luxury level. I'm thinking about a Bahamas trip in January that would run me $100 a night. That's probably less than one way in a roomette to visit my sister in Phoenix (option 2). Between Brooklyn, Manhattan and NJ, we see a full range of ships at many price points. If I had to travel to travel, I'm not sure I would enjoy it quite as much, although a few years back, a friend of mine was offered such a bargain out of Boston that it was worth the NER trip and cab ride......


How does one go about finding good deals on cruising? Is there a way to get listings of numerous choices in one place, or is it necessary to check out all the individual cruise ship companies?


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## PVD

There are a number of cruise ship "consolidators" that specialize in exactly what you are talking about, including services that also do other travel stuff like AAA. There are also companies that let you put in some filters like departure point....and some others that specialize in last minute deals...Orbitz would be a well known example.  Some companies also have e-mail service based on your info....So as an example, I can put in departure: NYC (all 3- Brooklyn, Manhattan, Bayonne), month of trip, length, etc.....and work off a list of different choices....everything varies greatly by week, the same trip can vary by a few hundred dollars per person between 2 back to back trips, if one is a holiday when it is easier to travel or kids are off from school.


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## v v

cpotisch said:


> I don't completely get why cruises are so appealing, and why they are worth that much money. It takes around four days and costs thousands of dollars to cruise from New York to Europe. By contrast, I can fly from New York to, say, Amsterdam, for $170 each way, in about 7 hours. I would just rather save the money and get all that extra time at my destination.


If I could give an opinion without ever having been on a cruise or a crossing then it would be it is often the journey that gives more than the destination.

Planes are efficient and well priced compared to most forms of land or sea transport, which is fine for a business situation. A vacation surely has a different purpose. To slow you down, take time to look, listen and learn a little of the world we live in and the people that live in it. 

By using planes we are all caught up in the fraught security checks at every point, the sense of urgency and lack of time for people to stop and pause, having the most cramped travel conditions, poor food.

Hardly a relaxing way to start a vacation although I do appreciate there are instances where the entire vacation is based miles away and getting there fast is important if you have limited time, then maybe a plane is the best way.

This journey will be the first time of many visits to the US that we wont have arrived by plane, but of course we are flying back to London as it's the most convenient for that part of the journey.

Like others and over many years we would have missed a lifetime of meeting special people, seeing special places and missed special experiences if we had flown to all our destinations. Some of our most memorable experiences have been on long distance and local buses alongside LD trains, motorhome travel and hopefully a ship too.

I've tried to think of any memorable meetings on a plane over decades of flying, only come up with one. A British Parliamentarian's  wife (yes in economy), who kept apologising for the fact her husband had voted for Brexit. Lovely lady who spent time trying to explain even though we told her it wasn't necessary but we learnt a little about the why.

A wordy answer, sorry, but the simple answer is it's the joy of travel.


----------



## JRR

v v said:


> If I could give an opinion without ever having been on a cruise or a crossing then it would be it is often the journey that gives more than the destination.
> Planes are efficient and well priced compared to most forms of land or sea transport, which is fine for a business situation. A vacation surely has a different purpose. To slow you down, take time to look, listen and learn a little of the world we live in and the people that live in it.
> By using planes we are all caught up in the fraught security checks at every point, the sense of urgency and lack of time for people to stop and pause, having the most cramped travel conditions, poor food.
> Hardly a relaxing way to start a vacation although I do appreciate there are instances where the entire vacation is based miles away and getting there fast is important if you have limited time, then maybe a plane is the best way.
> This journey will be the first time of many visits to the US that we wont have arrived by plane, but of course we are flying back to London as it's the most convenient for that part of the journey.
> Like others and over many years we would have missed a lifetime of meeting special people, seeing special places and missed special experiences if we had flown to all our destinations. Some of our most memorable experiences have been on long distance and local buses alongside LD trains, motorhome travel and hopefully a ship too.
> I've tried to think of any memorable meetings on a plane over decades of flying, only come up with one. A British Parliamentarian's  wife (yes in economy), who kept apologising for the fact her husband had voted for Brexit. Lovely lady who spent time trying to explain even though we told her it wasn't necessary but we learnt a little about the why.
> A wordy answer, sorry, but the simple answer is it's the joy of travel.


Much like taking the train where the journey is part of the vacation and not just a way to get to the destination!


----------



## caravanman

As others have said, a transatlantic crossing by ship is more a "voyage" than a cruise, no matter what level of luxury one attains.

Cruising seems to be a good option for folk who want to see a bit of the world, but don't feel that sure about it... The cruise ship is just a floating hotel, it stops somewhere interesting, you go and have a look around, probably on an escorted tour, then back to the ship for dinner and a sleep. Possibly an attractive safer option for lone females and older folk? The food and razzamatazz of cruising is to distract you from the fact it is just a floating hotel... 

Ed.


----------



## cpotisch

DCAKen said:


> cpotisch said:
> 
> 
> 
> I don't completely get why cruises are so appealing, and why they are worth that much money. It takes around four days and costs thousands of dollars to cruise from New York to Europe. By contrast, I can fly from New York to, say, Amsterdam, for $170 each way, in about 7 hours. I would just rather save the money and get all that extra time at my destination.
> 
> 
> 
> It's all about the experience. What would you say to someone who said this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't completely get why trains are so appealing, and why they are worth that much money. It takes around four days and costs thousands of dollars to go from New York to California. By contrast, I can fly from New York to, say, Lost Angeles, for $170 each way, in about 7 hours. I would just rather save the money and get all that extra time at my destination.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Well played, my friend! Touché.


----------



## PVD

I love the topic, and ships in general, but I think we are straying a bit far from the original path of trying to help someone with their trip to the US. Should we consider moving any further discussion on this to the non-rail area? Lots of interesting thoughts and different viewpoints, but maybe not for this thread....Certainly not my call, but if the mods think so, they'd have a valid point...


----------



## v v

PVD said:


> I love the topic, and ships in general, but I think we are straying a bit far from the original path of trying to help someone with their trip to the US. Should we consider moving any further discussion on this to the non-rail area? Lots of interesting thoughts and different viewpoints, but maybe not for this thread....Certainly not my call, but if the mods think so, they'd have a valid point...


For our part we don't have a problem, but if others think a new thread for cruising is a better place we'll go with the consensus.


----------



## ehbowen

I don't speak for the mod team, but I personally would prefer taking the general cruising good/bad/indifferent posts to Non-Rail. But I vote that anything related to your specific planned trip would be best kept here.


----------



## railiner

ehbowen said:


> I don't speak for the mod team, but I personally would prefer taking the general cruising good/bad/indifferent posts to Non-Rail. But I vote that anything related to your specific planned trip would be best kept here.


I just started a cruising thread there, if any one is interested....


----------



## E60JPC

v v,

I eagerly await your travelogue.

I just booked an eastbound cruise on the QM2 for my honeymoon in April. It will be the first time outside of North America for me and my future wife. Once in the UK, we'll be riding trains around Europe!


----------



## v v

E60JPC said:


> v v,
> 
> I eagerly await your travelogue.
> 
> I just booked an eastbound cruise on the QM2 for my honeymoon in April. It will be the first time outside of North America for me and my future wife. Once in the UK, we'll be riding trains around Europe!


Congratulations to you both, amazing way to start your married life.

If you want any pointers on UK or Europe travel just ask, there are a few Europeans on this forum and quite a few of your compatriots are familiar too.

Best wishes from Rosie and me.


----------



## v v

Have decided to follow our original plans and travel to Baja California Mexico, but changing the where and how quite a lot and showing more caution. Here are the reasons...

It's a long story as to why we changed our minds a second time and decided to travel into a challenging Mexico, this is the short version! 

We read and re-read posts in this thread advising against travel to Mexico, we also researched other websites. Some close family don't think we should be in Mexico either, in particular at the moment with the Caravans. We took serious note of everything that was pointed out, all valued opinions, but we are very independent people and end up making our own decisions, right or wrong.

We weighed up everything we could read then used our own experience over 40 years of travelling. Decided it is a risk but to a lesser level than portrayed in the media, or frankly some of the understandable Government scaremongering. We have travelled in countries where our government didn't think it was a good idea to travel independently, we were advised only 2 years ago not to travel independently in Russia outside Moscow and St Petersburg, someone has got that piece of advice very wrong. We spent 2 months in an Arab country under martial law, the most welcoming country we have ever visited.

OK we may have got lucky in the past but we don't take deliberate chances, we are no longer agile enough to get out of the way of trouble.

Apparently the greatest risk in Baja is the northern half up to the border, we want to travel up to Guerrero Negro to whale watch extraordinaire, about half way up Baja. This is our considered plan.

Travel from SJD to La Paz. LP is less visited and we will get a feel of the place outside of an out and out tourist area. Hopefully talk with other travellers who know Mexico. If we are comfortable we get a daytime bus to Guerrero Negro, again a bus that stops directly by a hotel. We stay only 2 full days and by then we expect to know a great deal more than we do now. If at any stage including from arriving at SJD onwards we are not comfortable we head back to the airport and get the first plane out, and here's the important point (for us)...  at least we will have tried.

If it all goes swimmingly we will bus up to Tijuana to cross the border there, now that could really be a trip report...  The high probability is return to SJD and fly to LAX. We had intended to travel to and internally around by bus for all our Mexico journey, we had intended to visit the Mexican mainland too including a large city. Most of this we have now ruled out except the bus to GN. We consider the bus safer than renting a car and being alone on remote roads, we have listened to advice.

We are not brave, strong or stupid, but do see frequently that fear creates more fear. We could get unlucky, of course we could, but so can every single person who goes out of their front door each day.

Phew, found that difficult to write, sorry if it causes offence.


----------



## Bob Dylan

Great post Jamie, I used to do the exact same things,when I wore a younger mans Clothes.

Wonderful Adventure for sure!


----------



## E60JPC

v v,

Are you still planning on taking the Copper Canyon Railway?


----------



## v v

E60JPC said:


> v v,
> 
> Are you still planning on taking the Copper Canyon Railway?


Sadly no we will not and hadn't considered it anyway as it starts/ends in one of the Mexico zones that have the very highest risk. I think someone on this thread suggested it but it was never in our potential plans.


----------



## cpotisch

v v said:


> Have decided to follow our original plans and travel to Baja California Mexico, but changing the where and how quite a lot and showing more caution. Here are the reasons...
> 
> It's a long story as to why we changed our minds a second time and decided to travel into a challenging Mexico, this is the short version!
> 
> We read and re-read posts in this thread advising against travel to Mexico, we also researched other websites. Some close family don't think we should be in Mexico either, in particular at the moment with the Caravans. We took serious note of everything that was pointed out, all valued opinions, but we are very independent people and end up making our own decisions, right or wrong.
> 
> We weighed up everything we could read then used our own experience over 40 years of travelling. Decided it is a risk but to a lesser level than portrayed in the media, or frankly some of the understandable Government scaremongering. We have travelled in countries where our government didn't think it was a good idea to travel independently, we were advised only 2 years ago not to travel independently in Russia outside Moscow and St Petersburg, someone has got that piece of advice very wrong. We spent 2 months in an Arab country under martial law, the most welcoming country we have ever visited.
> 
> OK we may have got lucky in the past but we don't take deliberate chances, we are no longer agile enough to get out of the way of trouble.
> 
> Apparently the greatest risk in Baja is the northern half up to the border, we want to travel up to Guerrero Negro to whale watch extraordinaire, about half way up Baja. This is our considered plan.
> 
> Travel from SJD to La Paz. LP is less visited and we will get a feel of the place outside of an out and out tourist area. Hopefully talk with other travellers who know Mexico. If we are comfortable we get a daytime bus to Guerrero Negro, again a bus that stops directly by a hotel. We stay only 2 full days and by then we expect to know a great deal more than we do now. If at any stage including from arriving at SJD onwards we are not comfortable we head back to the airport and get the first plane out, and here's the important point (for us)...  at least we will have tried.
> 
> If it all goes swimmingly we will bus up to Tijuana to cross the border there, now that could really be a trip report...  The high probability is return to SJD and fly to LAX. We had intended to travel to and internally around by bus for all our Mexico journey, we had intended to visit the Mexican mainland too including a large city. Most of this we have now ruled out except the bus to GN. We consider the bus safer than renting a car and being alone on remote roads, we have listened to advice.
> 
> We are not brave, strong or stupid, but do see frequently that fear creates more fear. We could get unlucky, of course we could, but so can every single person who goes out of their front door each day.
> 
> Phew, found that difficult to write, sorry if it causes offence.


Sounds like a great trip and I really hope it goes well!


----------



## v v

*14 December 2018  ~  Where it all begins, London to La Paz, Mexico (almost) without flying. Here is the start of the journey...*

The local rail line at South Woodham Ferrers on the edge of Essex, UK coastal flat-lands




The almost completed itinerary is updated here. We'll try to enjoy the whole itinerary, but from experience changes will happen due to the reality that is local to the place, time and circumstance...  here's hoping.

*London to Baja California ~ across America*

Our estimated schedule, here's what we know so far...

*Part I*

*14 December 2018 -* Friday morning ~ South Woodham Ferrers (SOF) to Southampton Central...  via local 2 car train to Wickford, Essex ~ mainline train to Stratford, London ~ Tube  to Waterloo, London ~ mainline train to Southampton Central

*14 Dec -* Friday afternoon ~ local bus to hotel central Southampton

*15 Dec -* Saturday noon ~ Taxi to the QE2 Cruise Terminal, Dock gate 4, Southampton

*15 Dec -* Saturday 15:00 ~ Queen Mary 2 embarkation

*15 Dec -* Saturday c.18:00 ~ set sail across the North Atlantic in winter. From our cabin (stateroom) low down on deck 5 we'll have a close-up of the sea through panoramic windows. This is going to be 7 days of contrast to where we come from and our daily lives, can't wait...  especially Rosie.

*16 - 21 Dec *~ North Atlantic

For those interested here is a nuts and bolts description of what this QM2 Transatlantic crossing entails, it's all new to us. Some of you will recognise the author as better known for compiling his worldwide rail website, Mr Seat 61. He brings the same matter of fact detail to this traditional Liner crossing too.

https://www.seat61.com/queen-mary-2-transatlantic.htm

*22 Dec -* Saturday ~ Arrive in New York Bay early, c. 05:00 - 07:00 am. Past the Statue of Liberty, past Ellis Island, round Governors Island and into the Red Hook Brooklyn Cruise Terminal berth. We can elect to dis-embark very early or mid morning. Too early doesn't work well for where we are headed that morning so will try to grab breakfast before we go and leave later.

*22 Dec -* Saturday morning. If the weather is poor, raining or bitterly cold we take a taxi to our hotel in Tribeca. If it's fine winter weather we take the local NYC South Brooklyn Ferry from right next to the Cruise terminal to the Wall Street Pier, apparently some very good views?

Turn left out of the pier and walk along the East River walk to Whitehall St and the subway entrance just a few meters/yards to the north. Subway through to Canal St, check into and leave a couple of small bags with the hotel then back to a different Canal St subway station/system about 300 m away (apparently there are 5 station/systems in Canal St) for a train to Penn Station where we'll check our large bag in for the next day's Amtrak Cardinal.

Then we're off to discover New York City at Christmas, with all the razzmatazz that goes with it. We're not usually interested in Christmas, at home will often see no-one or do too much, but we are interested in how this city celebrates it's Christmas so have planned a walk through an eclectic mix of sights in mid Manhattan.

*22 Dec -* Saturday afternoon/evening ~ walking mid Manhattan to some or all of these places...  Houdini Museum - New York Times Building - Times Square - Rockefeller Plaza (Radio City) - Trump Tower - Bergdorf Goodman - Bloomingdales - Urbanspace on Lex for food maybe - Chrysler Building - Grand Central Station - Empire State - Macy's - now booked for the last show of the day Radio City Rockettes Christmas Spectacular.

*23 Dec -* Sunday ~ Up early, leave for Penn Station at 04:45, ouch! Hope we can get a hot drink in the Acela Lounge before the real adventure starts, trains to LA.

*New York Penn to Chicago Union Station* - Depart 06:45am Amtrak 51 Cardinal - Sleeper   ~   Arrive CHI 10:00am Monday 24 Dec

*24 Dec -* Monday ~ Chicago. If we arrive on-time leave carry-on bags in the Metropolitan Lounge, then another walk this time to the lake at Millennium Park. Back to Union Station and if time lunch at Lou Mitchell's (if open) on Jackson as there'll be no lunch on the Southwest Chief.

*24 Dec -* Monday ~ *Chicago Union Station to Los Angeles Union Station *- Depart 14:50pm Amtrak 3 Southwest Chief - Sleeper   ~   Arrive  LAX 08:00am Wednesday 26 Dec

*25 Dec -* Tuesday ~ We deliberately chose to be on a long distance train on Christmas day, just for the fun of it. As mentioned above we rarely mark Christmas day but hope this one is memorable.

*26 Dec -* Wednesday ~ LA. We've asked Milton not to be met at Union Station. He's not a morning person and would have to leave home at 06:00am if the Chief is on-time, and that's not fair. So it is the Ventura County Line train or even a Pacific Surfliner up to Chatsworth station, from there a short bus ride down to Roscoe / De Soto close to Milton's home.

All day for a catch-up on all our news, plenty to talk about.

If this plan works we will have travelled with minor stop overs from central France via the UK to Los Angeles without flying   -   7710 miles / 12408 km

*Part II*

*27﻿ Dec -* Thursday ~ Deja vu. Outside forces have _'encouraged'_ us to book a night onboard the Queen Mary I at Long Beach CA. Yes it's a tough life sometimes, although at this rate ﻿we wont be travelling for another 3 years to give us time to recoup our finances. It will be strange only 5 days after leaving one QM to board another, but this time with known great company.

*28 Dec -* Friday ~ leaving the QM I and visiting Laguna Woods

*29 Dec -* Saturday ~ LA area  ?  undecided

*30 Dec -* Sunday ~ Volunteering for float building. Afternoon /evening at the La Canada Flintridge Tournament of Roses float building event. It's under the I 210 San Fernando Freeway at Hampton Rd and Foothill Blvd. If you are in the area come along and one of us will try to sell you a T shirt, all for a good cause. One of us will be working at the Floatique!

*31 Dec -* Monday ~ Recovering

*1 January 2019 -* Tuesday, New Year's Day. Milton has pre-booked grandstand seats for the Rose Parade for the 5 of us, we have to get there very early. He has all the arrangements in hand which is very nice not to have to plan that day. Heard there's a sort of football match on later too, aiming to find a good sports bar to watch the match in. Any suggestions of a good venue vaguely near to Roscoe Blvd?

*2 Jan -* Wednesday ~ Taking it easy and getting ready to head north

*3 Jan -* Thursday ~ *Van Nuys Station to Monterey Transit Plaza -* Depart 10:40am Amtrak 14 Coast Starlight - Business Class   ~   Arrive Salinas 18:28pm same day. Transfer at Salinas Station to Amtrak 3614 Thruway Bus. Depart 18:35pm   ~   Arrive Monterey Transit Plaza 19:25pm same day.

Transfer to hotel with a short taxi ride.

*4 Jan -* Friday ~ We like Monterey based on one out of season visit, Milton has never visited and is curious about our glowing description. Four things on the agenda for today. Walk through downtown, visit the seals in the harbour again, visit the aquarium (neither Rosie or I have visited an aquarium), and collect a car from the airport in the evening.

*5 Jan -* Saturday ~ Off after breakfast down to the coastal Redwood stands in Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park. This, for all of us is the highlight of this trip. The remainder of the day a drive down the Big Sur to our lodgings at San Luis Obispo, possibly our favourite town in the USA.

*6 Jan -* Sunday ~ A gentle amble south sticking with the coast as far as possible, with at least one detour from Hwy 1. That's to Surf Station to the west of Lompoc, ending with returning to Milton's place in Winnetka.

*7 Jan -* Monday ~ Catch up with chores and return the car, getting ready for the off tomorrow

*Part III*

*8 Jan -* Tuesday ~ Pack light for the next journey starting today in the late afternoon. Now it's buses. The initial journey from LA up to Denver is across the Rockies by road, a first for us and even better as it's winter.

*LA Greyhound Bus Station to Denver Greyhound Bus Station -* Depart 18:40pm Greyhound Schedule 1684   ~   Arrive Denver 17:45pm Wednesday 9 Jan 

*9 Jan -* Wednesday ~ Arrive early evening, eat then to hotel

*10 Jan -* Thursday ~ Leave bags at the hotel and spend the day on two visits we missed out on last time. History Colorado Museum and the Colorado Capitol. The US has some magnificent capitols which we try to visit if we are nearby. Eat early as another evening Greyhound to catch.

*Denver Greyhound Bus Station to Austin Greyhound Bus Station -* Depart 19:35pm Greyhound Schedule 7309   ~   Arrive Austin 17:05pm Friday 11 Jan

*11 Jan -* Friday ~ Arrive Austin and if it all works out we get to take Bob Dylan to dinner after dropping our bags at the hotel, we are both looking forward to that.

*12 Jan -* Saturday ~ Various we'd like to do in Austin as Rosie wasn't too well during our first visit.

*13 Jan -* Sunday ~ Adieu to Bob and off to the airport. An afternoon flight to Dallas where we transfer to the San Jose del Cabo plane.

*Austin to Dallas Fort Worth - *transfer* - Dallas Fort Worth to San José del Cabo*   ~   American Airlines   Depart AUS 16:34pm   -   Arrive SJD 21:28pm

*13 Jan -* Sunday ~ Shuttle from airport directly to hotel in San José del Cabo (SJD). At last we are in Baja California (Sur), this is a staging post to travel further north over the next few days.  

*14 Jan -* Monday ~ San Jose to La Paz. A quick look around San José del Cabo then a bus through to La Paz. Maybe another few hours walking some of La Paz  and arranging a trip for the following day out to the Isla Espirito Santo, Rosie has her heart set on this.

*15 Jan -* Tuesday ~ La Paz. The Island(s) hopefully, then relaxing and preparing for the bus up to Guerrero Negro the following morning

*16 Jan -* Wednesday ~ La Paz to Guerrero Negro. Undecided at the moment which of the 3 buses to choose, mainly it's what time we want to arrive than leave on the 12 hour bus ride. We are told Mexican LD buses are often quite superior to Greyhound, sounds like a touch of luxury to us.  Of course if we are not happy with the general Baja situation we could be heading back to the airport at SJD instead?

*17 Jan -* Thursday ~ For the next 5 or 6 days everything is provisional, this part of the itinerary will only be known on the day, so the next part of this schedule is how we hope it will turn out, reality may be different. At this point our main future deadline is the 23 January when we are due to ride the Amtrak 422 Texas Eagle from LA back to the north.

*17 - 22 Jan -* Baja / LA area, no fixed plans as yet

*Part IV*

*23 Jan -* Wednesday ~ Preparing to leave Milton and LA, never know if we'll be back again. Evening train to Normal, what a destination.

*23 Jan -* Wednesday ~ *Los Angeles Union Station to Washington Union Station *- Depart 22:00pm Amtrak 422 Texas Eagle - Sleeper   ~   Arrive Bloomington-Normal 11:01am Saturday 26 Jan. The Amtrak station is actually in Normal, not Bloomington.

*26 Jan -* Saturday ~ *Bloomington-Normal Station to Indianapolis Station* - Depart 15:20pm Amtrak 8890 Thruway Bus   ~   Arrive IND 19:30pm Saturday 26 Dec. We have been warned about Indianapolis station, some folk are for and some against. Soon have our own opinions.

*26 Jan -* Saturday ~ *Indianapolis Station to Washington Union Station* - Depart 23:59pm Amtrak 50 Cardinal - Coach   ~   Arrive WAS 18:19pm Sunday 27 Jan. Think we will get to see the gorge in daylight?

*27 Jan -* Sunday ~ Evening. Arrive Washington DC, subway across to our hotel very close to the Watergate Building. This is turning out to be a tour of major past and present political sights and events, and now we are at the epicentre!

*28 Jan -* Monday ~ Today we hopefully get to visit the National Museum of African American History & Culture, something we are looking forward to. It's obviously popular as it's difficult to book a visiting time due to being so busy. Here's hoping... 

Update 4 December: In January timed visits are only required at weekends, weekdays are 'walk in' days. Advice from a member of the Washington visitor center who has visited this museum more than once is arrive early. Apparently at any time this is a very popular museum and visitors spend quite a lot of time there.

*29 Jan -* Tuesday ~ It's the day for the Capitol and another peek at the White House. Currently Europe is fascinated by American politics so having a chance to visit such an important parliament and view one of the most important homes on the planet is a must.  

*30 Jan -* Wednesday ~ Leaving Washington late morning with an NER train. *Washington Union Station to New York Penn Station* - Depart 10:10 am Amtrak 174 Northeast Regional - Coach  ~  Arrive New York 13:35pm same day

By this evening we should be on a plane back to London, England, but we think we have enough time to visit Juanita and Bradley in New York for a cup of tea. We met Juanita on the Australian LD train The Ghan a few years ago now, what a happy thing this long distance train travel is.

*Friday 14 December 2018 Day 1 ~ South Woodham Ferrers to Southampton, UK*_Updated in Southampton, UK ~ Saturday 15 December_

4 trains and 1 bus, went like clockwork. But each section was extremely busy which we hadn't encountered before on our route and time of middle of the day on a weekday travels across London.

The first train, a local 2 carriage is now a 4 car train and was almost full. The mainline train from Wickford, Essex hardly had a seat even 40 miles outside London. The Tube from Stratford east London was heaving, Then the main line south London Waterloo to Southampton Central train was 80% full when leaving, more people came on board at the various stops after. Are people in SE England using a lot more public transport than 9 months previous?

To be continued...


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## railiner

Bon Voyage!   

You have done an incredible amount of research and planning for your trip.  

I hope the weather clears up a bit, before you sail away...your Captain might take a southerly course to avoid the worst of it...

http://www.oceanweather.com/data/NATL-Southern/index.html  

If so the QM2 has ample reserve power to make up the extra time, and you might get the rare opportunity to see her use her pair of marine gas turbines for extra speed.

I wish you "fair winds, and following seas"....

And I'll be following your report, here....


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## caravanman

Thanks for the update, and likewise, best wishes for a safe and enjoyable trip.

It will be strange to get back to Normal after Mexico, but I am sure you will cope well.    

I guess you will be "off the air" while afloat, so I look forward to hearing about the crossing when you get any time to write, Stateside.

Bon Voyage!

Ed.


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## cpotisch

Safe travels! Four pages of advice and planning, and you're finally here! Have fun!


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## Bob Dylan

Outstanding! ^_^  Surely looking forward to your trip reports and seeing y'all @ the Long Dog Station in Austin! :hi:

And it sounds like British Trains are like Amtrak, the Claim is that No-one rides Trains anymore but somehow they are often Full!


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## PVD

Newseum, Holocaust Museum, WW2 Museum are also points of interest in DC that might resonate with people with an international perspective.


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## cpotisch

PVD said:


> Newseum, Holocaust Museum, WW2 Museum are also points of interest in DC that might resonate with people with an international perspective.


This! I also strongly recommend the Bureau of Engraving and Printing, where they produce US Currency. And ironically, admission is free!


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## PVD

They have a renovation going on and tour capacity is very limited....


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## oregon pioneer

I know this will be a memorable trip! I really look forward to hearing how the Baja part turns out (especially).

Yes, the east bound Cardinal will get views of the New River Gorge in daylight. I took it in November, and was in coach from CIN. I was awake and got good views at first light and we weren't even to the gorge, yet! It is nice to do it in winter, when the leaves are off the trees. If you are lucky, you will even have snow!


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## Mystic River Dragon

Wishing you both an absolutely wonderful trip and looking forward to hearing about all your wonderful adventures!


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## railiner

Following the QM2 on the AIS...currently approximately 16W and 48 N   moving thru some nice waves....welcome to the "Winter Crossing Club"....


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## railiner

Looks like the weather wasn't bad enough for the good Captain to divert...the QM2 was built to handle the worst the North Atlantic could throw at her...currently approximately, 

19W, 47N....heading 253°  at 17.3 k

Current view from the bridge... from Cunard website


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## cpotisch

railiner said:


> Looks like the weather wasn't bad enough for the good Captain to divert...the QM2 was built to handle the worst the North Atlantic could throw at her...currently approximately,
> 
> 19W, 47N....heading 253°  at 17.3 k
> 
> Current view from the bridge... from Cunard website


Can you post a link to that video? I’m not seeing it on the Cunard site...


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## trainman74

v v said:


> Heard there's a sort of football match on later too, aiming to find a good sports bar to watch the match in. Any suggestions of a good venue vaguely near to Roscoe Blvd?


Around what intersection on Roscoe? (Pretty much any bar, or restaurant with a TV, will have the Rose Bowl game on.)


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## v v

*Friday 14 December 2018 Day 1  ~  South Woodham Ferrers to Southampton, UK  -  continued*_Updated in mid north Atlantic ~ Tuesday 18 December_

From South Woodham Ferrers to our hotel room in central Southampton in 3 1/2 hours, very slick transfers that all worked.
Walked around the center of Southampton for a couple of hours in the early evening, never stopped here always driven through. Very impressed indeed at the blend of old fortifications and the very modern, can't say we've seen better anywhere. Well done Southampton to have retained the original character.

A part of Waterloo station, large south London station




Notice the sleigh and reindeer above the gate




Blend of ancient and modern




…  right next to this modern leisure center




*Saturday 15 December Day 2  ~  Southampton to leaving on the QM2*

_Updated in mid north Atlantic ~ Tuesday 18 December_

Raining cats and dogs this morning so time to catch up with some sleep. Even breakfast at the hotel was available until 11:00am so very relaxed.

Pre-ordered taxi arrived spot on time at 12:00 noon, and knew where Berth 101, the City Cruise Terminal was too. (The berth had changed 3 times since we made our booking, the other two terminals which are Cunard owned are apparently a little swisher according to experienced cruisers). And there was the Queen Mary II at it's borrowed berth, she towered over all the surrounding buildings and infrastructure, impressive.

We were due to turn up for check-in at 3:00pm but had to be out of the hotel by 12:00 noon, so at 12:10pm we were standing inside the terminal building looking for a place to wait for 3 hours. Had a thought, why not try to blagg it and see if we could check-in earlier. Asked what the procedure was. In turn was asked if we had all our bags with and on confirmation we had was told to go straight through...  so we did.

Entertaining 45 minutes queuing for check-in, the couple in front of us  complained they never usually had to queue, they had cruised before. He a bank manager and she previously flight crew were very pleasant and told us how they had unloaded their 9 (yes that is nine! large bags) at the previous to be used terminal and been transported to this one. Their car was being stored at the Cunard terminal until they returned in around 4 1/2 weeks. 
The QM2, which Rosie has shortened to just Mary goes off to the Caribbean after the New York crossing before returning to New York and Southampton. 
When he saw the incredulity on our faces re the 9 large cases he explained he had 4 dinner jackets including one for a full Scottish dress outfit. I mentioned I didn't have a single one (through choice) and he generously offered to lend me one of his. He was about 6' 4" and broad, I'm not. I did mention it would look like an overcoat on me and his girlfriend said the Scots one is cut short so maybe that would be best! How generous as they meant well, this was our introduction to cruising and it's folk and it felt slightly surreal but very nice. I doubt we'll meet up as there are thousands of passengers boarding plus they are on the top deck in a suit and we are on the lowest.

Straight through very relaxed check-in and told off you go, they'll direct you as soon as you get on board. Found our way to our cabin, very nice indeed somewhat larger than a roomette or even an Amtrak bedroom, and there was the balcony too, we felt very well set-up. 
Our small table had a bunch of flowers, a bottle of white wine in an ice bucket and a suspiciously serious looking bottle of champagne alongside a small box of chocolates, wow! are you listening Amtrak.

Rosie was bothered about all these gifts and asked the room steward, all were explained except the Champagne.

Visited the Kings Court Buffet self service restaurant for lunch, huge range of food on offer and covers a large part of that deck, pretty impressive and no formal dress is required at any time.

Took a look around a few parts of the ship, not only is the detail superb but the build quality appears of high quality and looks robust too. Think it was built for the north Atlantic in winter and certainly has the feel of a traditional ship, from the outside it doesn't look like most cruise ships. 
The detail in the interior decoration is at times exquisite, they have emulated 1930's style and glamour. Art Deco style is highlighted everywhere, and as we work with original Art Deco items we appreciate how good the décor design is.

We leave Southampton at 6:30pm, an hour later than scheduled. Patchy rain and very dark, only the lights of the city disappearing behind us brighten the chilly evening. Beautiful Teak deck to walk around the entire ship, most of it covered. Have to prepare clothes for dinner, that could take a while with 8 bow ties to choose from.
Rosie is excited about dressing up, I approached the first semi formal evening dinner with slight trepidation. We are allocated to eat in the Britannia dining room, it is 2 stories high by having a sweeping balcony circling above the lower dining floor, very grand.

After reading about Cunard dress codes we are surprised at the informality of the dining room, only about half of the male diners bothered with jacket and tie. We are seated at a 6 seater table, but only four of us. Our fellow diners were ex long term military who by coincidence were in Germany for 6 or 7 years not many miles where I had lived and worked, for four years at the same time. We had very different experiences with the local population. 

Pleasant enough dinner but no better than the self service Kings Court Buffet from lunch time, we were a little surprised at that.

An early night as we still had to catch up on lost sleep, all helped by a wonderfully comfortable bed. 

Our cabin /stateroom




ditto




A wet deck 7 with is continuous around the ship. 3.1 x round = 1 mile


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## railiner

Thanks so much for your "Live From" report... 

Make sure you visit all of the unique features that the QM2 offers....including the Planetarium, the Cunard historic collection, the bridge viewing room, the real dart board's in the Pub, the largest library at sea, and the adjacent bookstore, with one of the best collections of maritime books, anywhere....Sign up and take the 'behind the scene's tour', that is if it is not already sold out...it is so 'worth it'.... 

And if you are up to the challenge, enter the pub team trivia quiz....they take trivia seriously on that ship...


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## SarahZ

railiner said:


> Thanks so much for your "Live From" report...
> 
> Make sure you visit all of the unique features that the QM2 offers....including the Planetarium, the Cunard historic collection, the bridge viewing room, the real dart board's in the Pub, the largest library at sea, and the adjacent bookstore, with one of the best collections of maritime books, anywhere....Sign up and take the 'behind the scene's tour', that is if it is not already sold out...it is so 'worth it'....
> 
> And if you are up to the challenge, enter the pub team trivia quiz....they take trivia seriously on that ship...


Between all of this and the Art Deco, the QM2 just earned a high spot on my bucket list.


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## railiner

SarahZ said:


> Between all of this and the Art Deco, the QM2 just earned a high spot on my bucket list.


Anyone that loves to cruise, and loves traditional ocean liner's owes it to themselves to do at least one 'crossing' on this beauty.

Soak in and absorb the class she simply exudes...don't miss the high tea served in the afternoon in the Queen's Lounge, with the largest dance floor at sea....


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## railiner

cpotisch said:


> Can you post a link to that video? I’m not seeing it on the Cunard site...


www.cunard.com/webcams/qm2.jpg

The webcam is currently down...unfortunately that is quite common on that ship....

Current position report:   approx. 27 W, 46 N

Weather:  http://www.oceanweather.com/data/NATL-Northern/index.html


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## v v

*Sunday 16 December Day 3  ~  North Atlantic westbound*_Updated in mid north Atlantic westbound ~ Wednesday 19 December_ 

﻿The ship's gentle movement was slightly more pronounced, again this large liner was taking Force 7 winds and moderate seas in it's stride, it has a sort of reassuring feel to it. By mid-day we were at Force 8 Gale force with rough seas, more movement again. We had left the English channel and starting to cross the open north Atlantic section, apparently Monday will be rougher still. Rosie came back from the ships library feeling a little queasy, it is situated right in the bow which created far more movement. Took some pills and slept a while.

I ate lunch as Rosie slept, Kings Court (KC) again. Just a very tasty salad with a rice pudding for desert, enjoyed the food here again. Another very long term military couple at the same table, 32 years as a Marine but a self admitted bad sailor. Not a good combination as they operated quite a lot in the North Sea!

Our balcony is an asset, keeps us in touch with the reality of where we are coupled to the constant seas noises in the background. We would recommend this type of covered but open balcony. 

We talked, read, watched tv and made more discoveries, a very lazy day. The bottle of Champagne mystery was uncovered. It was ordered by a person called M (and his gang) to celebrate our Atlantic crossing. He also arranged another wonderful onboard surprise too, but at this point are too embarrassed to describe it. Such kindness and generosity of thought and deed but in all honesty we are neither used to such things or know how to respond to them, but it does leave a warm glow.

Today is one of the 3 Gala days this week, formal dress to some of the restaurants (including the Britannia) and to the Captains Gala recption, the Black and White Ball plus most of the evening shows. In the words of Cunard you have to dress in 'your black and white finery' to gain access to these places. 
We missed the reference to the shows and turned up at a later show dressed smartly but not in black and white, realised our mistake and quickly turned round and left. Bit of a pity but it's all in the literature, we just missed it.

As our official restaurant was also formal this evening we ate tonight in the KC buffet. We both enjoyed a varied Chinese meal, very well prepared and presented, delicious. 

The restaurant has a large amount of staff, all are as a minimum efficient and many pleasant too. There are quite a few nationalities although mainly Asian, but a few from Africa and Europeans too. During a quiet spell a waiter from Serbia took a couple of moments to describe his country after we asked what it was like. Unfortunately the modern Serbia is still affected by the last Balkan war. He said something that resonated with us and still does late into the night as I write this. 

Tito had united the Balkans from various religions and ethnic types into one nation Yugoslavia, they had prospered together. After he went all the people thought they wouldn't throw away what was their first period of calm, peace and prosperity for centuries, but of course they did. 
What hit us was he said that people in all the Balkan countries couldn't imagine another war _"even up to the day before it started"_ it took everybody by surprise (we'll except for the people who engineered it I guess). It was very moving watching his face.

The sea is now crashing against the hull in a drawn out rythym, the air is supringly warm at 11 C (same temperature as the ocean), it's late and time to go.
BTW, as mentioned above the Captain announced today that we are heading further south than normal to avoid the heaviest seas, and has increased speed slightly.

A bright day with a moderate swell, force 7 to 8 Gale. Perspective is all wrong in this photo, the balcony window is at least 50 feet (15m) up from the sea. This is the sheltered side of the ship.




*Monday 17 December Day 4  ~  north Atlantic westbound*

_Updated in mid north Atlantic westbound ~ Wednesday 19 December_

At around 10:00am this morning the Captain first apologised for making an unscheduled announcement to let us know that the Storm force 11 winds during the night had now moderated to Gale force 8 but the 8m / 26 feet swell would continue for the rest of the day. We are heading even further south to avoid the worst of the weather.
We both slept right through it but there was a lot of wave crashing against the side of the hull just before bedtime.

The unsheltered side of the ship (starboard) 




This is the entrance to the Mary, the Grand Lobby 




A major through passageway, one of our favourite places




Above a multi-storey open space, surprising detail in the relief




One of the endless cabin access corridors. There's almost as much behind the camera as in front!




To be continued...


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## railiner

Thanks for your report...glad you are enjoying life aboard....like those atrium view inside cabins in your last photo... 

Current position:  approximately 37W  44N,   course 260° at 21.3 knots


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## cpotisch

v v said:


> Took﻿﻿ a look around a few parts of the ship, not only is the detail superb but the build quality appears of high quality and looks robust too. Think﻿ it was built for the north Atlantic in﻿ winter and certainly has the feel of a traditional sh﻿ip, from the outside it doesn't look like most cruise ships.
> The detail in the interior decoration is at times exquisite, they have emulated 1930's ﻿style and glamour. Art Deco style is highlighted everywhere, and as we work with original Art Deco items we appreciate how good the décor design is.﻿﻿


The Queen Mary 2 is the last ship ever designed and built as an ocean liner. This means that it was indeed designed to handle anything the Atlantic could throw at it, which is why it has a pretty deep draught, is made primarily of steel (rather than the typical aluminum and glass construction of standard cruise ships), has decks that are more enclosed, and has a much pointier and more streamlined bow. So yeah, it very much is not a traditional ship.


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## caravanman

Thanks for sending  your mid atlantic posts, lovely to see those photos of the interior of the ship again.

Just a small tip, the best way to respond to a bottle of Champaign is to open it and toast each other!    

Hope the weather calms for you.

Ed.


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## oregon pioneer

Love your report and photos. I am transported!


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## railiner

cpotisch said:


> The Queen Mary 2 is the last ship ever designed and built as an ocean liner. This means that it was indeed designed to handle anything the Atlantic could throw at it, which is why it has a pretty deep draught, is made primarily of steel (rather than the typical aluminum and glass construction of standard cruise ships), has decks that are more enclosed, and has a much pointier and more streamlined bow. So yeah, it very much is not a traditional ship.


You've done your 'research' well.....


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## Mystic River Dragon

This is so lovely--thank you for sharing this wonderful voyage with all of us! 

I love the staircase photo--are the animals by the tree Mole, Rat, and Badger from my favorite children's book,_ Wind in the Willows_?


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## v v

*Monday 17 December Day 4  ~  north Atlantic westbou**nd - C**ontinued*

_Updated in mid north Atlantic ~ Thursday 20 December_

Monday mid morning we went forward to the bow to the Illuminations Theatre for a lecture on New York skyscrapers. Learnt quite a bit including the origin of the word 'skyscraper' which was borrowed from the fast trading sailing ships of times gone by. It's a description of a sail used sparingly to be used at the very top of the main mast above the 'top sail'. Must have been fun to set.

As the theatre is in the bow Rosie felt the effect of the ship's movement again, only 10 minutes in she went back to our cabin to lay down. Rosie has good seasickness tablets that work well but is averse to taking any pills she doesn't have to. As we were now 2 days at sea she thought that maybe she had found her sea legs and didn't take any pills, not needing pills didn't arrive until Wednesday.

Next lecture / talk from Dr Seth Gopin the architectural historian is Wednesday. Subject is a continuation of New York skyscrapers concentrating on the Rockefeller Center and the Rockettes. Due to encouragement on this thread we are already booked to visit the first and see a show with the second. Rosie is almost bursting with excitement about both.

Monday light lunch was in the KC buffet, more interesting conversations with the staff about their lives in far off lands. So far our best meetings with people are with the staff. Some of them have amazing stories to tell of what they are prepared to do to look after their families. 
Hopefully soon we'll meet fellow passengers who are interested in a world outside of their cabin, and have to be honest the general demeanour of fellow passengers so far creates an atmosphere we are in a floating retirement home that isn't a happy place to be.
But we do believe that things will improve as people start to relax in a day or two. Hope so as the ship and crew are magnificent, just need the guests to perk up a little.

Dinner this evening (less formal day) is again in the Britannia restaurant, the table tonight is full, another Brit couple Diane and David from the south coast have joined us. 
Our original conspirators of the previous Britannia meal are turning out to be real characters, that's Hazel and Reggie. He has some original opinions on life, she has immaculate timing to raise an eyebrow and say a few words that brings him back down to earth. 
With 6 of us there is always someone talking, but all a little wary still (we are all British after all and there is the Brit reserve to take into account).

That night the weather changes again, severe Gale force 9 with very rough seas. Still not enough to keep us awake though.

*Tuesday 18 December Day 5  ~  north Atlantic westbound*
_Updated in mid north Atlantic ~ Thursday 20 December_

Rosie up before me as usual and off to breakfast alone. Before she leaves the cabin Rosie has big news, Jose Mourinho has been sacked by Manchester United, that certainly woke me up. 
As Rosie had decided to take pills she could return to the library, possibly her favourite place on the ship. Managed to find both a book and a window seat, so she could sit, read and watch the sea. But only for so long as even with pills the bow can travel a long way up and down.

To be continued...


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## railiner

Current approximate position:   49W  43N  258° @ 22.7 knots   ETA Ambrose pilot station 0130 on 22 December....

If that ETA holds true, you'll have to be up real early to watch the arrival...takes about an a hour and a half to Red Hook terminal from there...


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## PVD

Wonderful reports....Thank you for taking the time to do this... If you stay to that schedule, it will still be quite dark coming in....I believe the Statue of Liberty lights are on...


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## railiner

Generally, it is about an hour from the pilot station to pass under the Verrazano Bridge, then about another half hour or so, to turn around, and reverse up the Buttermilk to Red Hook Pier 12....


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## PVD

I've never arrived or departed from Red Hook, only Manhattan, It is amazing how modern 900-1000 foot ships can get in and out with little or no tugboat action. The lateral control is something.


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## cpotisch

PVD said:


> I've never arrived or departed from Red Hook, only Manhattan, It is amazing how modern 900-1000 foot ships can get in and out with little or no tugboat action. The lateral control is something.


I didn’t know that cruise ships or ocean liners ever needed tugboats to get in and out of dock. Is that (or was that) common?


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## PVD

In the era pre side thrusters and azipods most definitely.. now, in Manhattan they usually stand by, but in some places they still assist... immediately after berthing either a powered barge or a tug moved barge is brought alongside to start fueling. They leave the same day they arrive now, they don't waste time...


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## railiner

cpotisch said:


> I didn’t know that cruise ships or ocean liners ever needed tugboats to get in and out of dock. Is that (or was that) common?


Rather than hijacking this wonderful trip report, I would be more than happy to discuss this in the Cruise thread....


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## railiner

Current approximate position of QM2:    61W  41N     257° @ 23.9  knots


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## railiner

Update on QM2 position:  72W   40:30N     Bearing 270° @ 21.1 knots

I don't think she'll reach the pilot station as early as 0130 at this rate...probably  a couple of hours later...we'll see...


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## railiner

QM2 lookin' great, just passed under Vz Bridge....Welcome to New York, v v !


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## PVD

Just in time for the sun to come back... Thursday and Friday were pretty rough.....


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## railiner

https://www.nyharborwebcam.com/

Then click on the white triangle for a live view of the QM2, shot from Staten Island...


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## AmtrakBlue

railiner said:


> https://www.nyharborwebcam.com/
> 
> Then click on the white triangle for a live view of the QM2, shot from Staten Island...


With the wind blowing the camera one could get seasick looking at a sea vessel while on land.


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## Mystic River Dragon

Welcome, welcome, welcome to Jamie and Rosie!   Wonderful to have you on our side of the pond!


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## PVD

Hopefully all is going well. Looks like an on time trip so far (for the Cardinal, some might joke about a Christmas miracle) If you have the time, and the inclination let us know how your NYC whirlwind went, hope you enjoyed the Christmas Show. 

Best regards.....


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## v v

Just a quick note from Chicago Metropolitan Lounge which gets better with every visit. Appalling internet since the start but should be better after Xmas and can continue the travel posts.

Wish all the people reading this a peaceful New Year, and thanks for all the help and encouragement to enable us to have such 'interesting' travels, there are still many real characters in this world.

J&R


----------



## Ronbo

v v said:


> Just a quick note from Chicago Metropolitan Lounge which gets better with every visit. Appalling internet since the start but should be better after Xmas and can continue the travel posts.
> 
> Wish all the people reading this a peaceful New Year, and thanks for all the help and encouragement to enable us to have such 'interesting' travels, there are still many real characters in this world.
> 
> J&R


Looks like you might see some snow traveling through New Mexico and Arizona! Hope you’re having a Merry Christmas on the Southwest Chief!


----------



## v v

trainman74 said:


> Around what intersection on Roscoe? (Pretty much any bar, or restaurant with a TV, will have the Rose Bowl game on.)


Evening trainman74, we are very near to Roscoe / De Soto. 

We are looking for somewhere with atmosphere that we could walk to, say up to a 20-25 minute walk. We don't frequent bars hardly ever or sports bars at all, but it's a special day for US sport so thought we would try to go somewhere special to enjoy it too.

This far we have come up with Beers N Wings at 20141 Roscoe, but it looks as though it's a half restaurant and half sports bar.

Thanks for any help.


----------



## trainman74

v v said:


> Evening trainman74, we are very near to Roscoe / De Soto.
> 
> We are looking for somewhere with atmosphere that we could walk to, say up to a 20-25 minute walk. We don't frequent bars hardly ever or sports bars at all, but it's a special day for US sport so thought we would try to go somewhere special to enjoy it too.


Unfortunately, I'm not very familiar with that area (it's about a 12-mile drive from where I live). I just took a peek at Yelp, and nothing is really jumping out at me.


----------



## v v

trainman74 said:


> Unfortunately, I'm not very familiar with that area (it's about a 12-mile drive from where I live). I just took a peek at Yelp, and nothing is really jumping out at me.


Thanks for looking, appreciate that.


----------



## v v

*Tuesday 18 December Day 5  ~  north Atlantic westbound - continued*_Updated LA ~ Tuesday 1 January 2019_ 

First a photo from the night of 17/18 December 2018. So far it's our favourite seascape photo of the North Atlantic taken from our balcony with a little movement of the ship influencing the image. To us it comes across as almost an 'Impressionist painting' view of the sea.




Today gave us Force 9 severe gale with very rough seas. So impressed with the seakeeping ability of this ship, really feels as though it were built for this type of weather. 

A couple of laps of deck 7, quite windy making it difficult to walk in a straight line. An American recommended Hearst Castle CA to us as we'll be driving down Highway 1 (The Big Sur), may just do that if we have time. 

Went to a talk on Lowry the English artist. Appears to have been an unusual man with a very distinctive style you either love or hate. Rosie is in the hate camp, I'm not.

During the afternoon down to Force 5 (fresh breeze) with moderate seas, felt like a mill pond. Next we go to the cinema to watch Mission Impossible in 3D, sometimes the movement of the ship matched the film, very weird effect!

As it's formal dining in the Britannia restaurant we gave it a miss, the Kings Court for us with the now usual standard of tasty food.

We've learnt from a number of staff that their onboard contracts usually last from 3 months to 9 months. It appears as though if the ship has passengers they work 7 days a week, week in and week out. At the end of their contract they go home for several months before re-joining their ship, or sometimes a different one. There does appear to be a loyalty that ties the staff to particular ships, one called the QM2 his 'home' as he had worked on her for so long. 

The sheltered side of deck 7, looks like a proper ship. 3.1 times round deck 7 equals 1 mile.




First photo of the library


----------



## railiner

Great photo's...thanks for posting.   Just to the right of that woman sitting in the last photo, is a great seat within the 'wing' of the library, with a 270° view...my favorite spot, on my favorite ship.


----------



## PVD

Wonderful, thanks for posting. I liked Hearst Castle, wear shoes appropriate for walking.


----------



## Mystic River Dragon

Beautiful photos, especially the water one--thanks for sharing them with us  .

Just looked up Lowry, and pretty sure I would agree with Rosie  .

Hearst Castle sounds wonderful but huge--I second wearing good shoes!


----------



## v v

railiner said:


> Great photo's...thanks for posting.   Just to the right of that woman sitting in the last photo, is a great seat within the 'wing' of the library, with a 270° view...my favorite spot, on my favorite ship.




Rosie knows the exact spot. Have to say you scrub up well Mr railiner


----------



## v v

*Wednesday 19 December Day 6  ~  north Atlantic westbound*_Updated San Luis Obispo, CA ~ Saturday 5 January 2019_ ﻿

Calmer seas today, Force 5 with moderate seas. Still felt pretty windy but data said it's not. Rosie met an interesting American doctor who she felt was more down to earth than any others met on board so far. She reminded Rosie of a dear friend from long ago and the meeting brightened her day.

Free launderette on each side of each deck, worked well and is popular with everybody. That it was free was a hot topic, against the trend for Cunard add-ons.

Rosie attended the 'Chocolate Hour' in the Kings Court, had never seen so much chocolate in one place before. Photos tell the tale.

During the day the Captain announced that we would be passing within 80 nautical miles of where the Titanic sank, not sure if that's a good thing to mention but it caused a lot of chatter so probably was. There is new evidence that the speed of Titanic sinking was caused by an onboard fire that started before Titanic sailed on her maiden voyage. If anyone is interested more about this later in the blog.

Rosie also roamed over other parts of the Mary (now specifically named 'hot Mary'), she is fascinated by all aspects and wants to see everything there is to see. See the restroom photo below.

We went together to back to back talks, first on the Rockefeller Center + the Rockettes, the second on the part Liverpool, UK played in the Slave trade. Both were well presented and equally interesting although totally different. 

The Rockefeller Center sounds amazing, the Rockettes even more so and ratchetted up Rosie's excitement about our visit the following Saturday, I was impressed by both too.

Back to the Britannia restaurant tonight, dressed in our finery. This dressing up business is curious as we are both pleased to see the other in posh clothes but not so interested about seeing ourselves in the mirror. We are unlikely to do this again so join in the best we can with a smile.

David and Diane the new comers to our table for six were more chatty tonight, she was a senior nurse, he a history lecturer at a college. The conversations were easier tonight and had a pleasant meal.

Before we went into dinner met another English couple from London, booked their whole trip through a UK newspaper, the Daily Mail. They were a chirpy and happy couple, typical of older working class Londoners.

They didn't have a clue about the how, where and when of their trip - it was mainly about a pilgrimage to visit New Orleans - but they had a schedule of where they had to be for the start of each stage of their journey and were happy enough with that.

Their itinerary was London -> Southampton -> QM2 to New York - > Amtrak to New Orleans -> Amtrak to Los Angeles -> Amtrak to San Francisco -> Amtrak to Chicago -> Amtrak to New York and fly back to London. When asked what they would do in each city they only knew the arrival and departure details, no idea what happened in the time they were there, except in New Orleans.

His father was a professional jazz musician and their home was always full of people in the music industry passing through. His father told him he had only one regret in his life that he had never visited New Orleans, so he was headed for the French Quarter to leave a photo of his father there in some quiet spot.

They were lovely, so full of innocence and totally unaware except they were on a great adventure and doing something important on the way. They made our day.

Towards the end of diner David and I started to talk more animatedly about politics and history, mostly him talking about their relevance to each other. After dinner we agreed to find a quiet spot to continue talking. Rosie and Diane said they were headed to back to the cabins. 

David explained that from a very early age he wrote lyrics about events and people in history then set them to music. He said from time to time some of his students contacted him years after achieving their degrees to tell him they mostly remembered his 'history songs' and it kept them interested.

I thought that he did this once or twice each term but he said no, it was often each week or sometimes each day, sounds amazing. I asked if it was after the style of (the real) Bob Dylan and he agreed some of his songs were, or he would write a set of lyrics and couple them to existing music. He did say he thought 'Blowing in the Wind' was exceptional in his view.

He got in trouble for not getting back to his cabin until after 2am, Rosie remained asleep.

'Chocolate Hour'. Many many more chocolate displays than shown here

 





The ladies restroom inside 'The Verandah' restaurant, Rosie says it is swish.




Awaiting the start of a stand-up comedian's show in the main theatre onboard. Not sure what it's capacity is but large by most standards and beautifully decorated


----------



## railiner

Sounds like you are having a wonderful time.   Having the good fortune to meet very interesting people on such a great ship, is indeed a bonus...

It's too bad Rosie did not get to sail on the Norwegian Breakaway during its first year in service.  Besides having the Rockettes serve as the ship's Godmother's, and a large troupe of them appearing at its naming ceremony, there were a pair of them, along with a chaperone performing on every sailing, as well as posing for individual photo's with passenger's, and answering questions about their lives...

That fellow David, must like this song....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cDPnsTRAvIM

I am thoroughly enjoying your travelogue...


----------



## v v

*Thursday 20 December Day 7  ~  north Atlantic westbound*_Updated LA, CA ~ Sunday 6 January 2019_

Day started with a Force 8 gale which soon turned into a Force 9 severe gale. Quite amazing that even during this rough weather we were still ploughing on at 22.6 knots, that's 26 mph. Amazing ship in all respects.

We both visited the library, this is a very special place. It's located near the bow so a fair bit of movement If the sea is rough. If we had had a calm crossing Rosie would have spent quite a lot of the crossing here.

The jewel of the Queen Mary 2, it's library










The walkway to the library.  Just about everywhere on this ship the design and finish are superb




More design detail, a ceiling lamp.




With the seas rising we next visited deck 2 to get close to the huge swell, it didn't fail to impress.

The non sheltered side from the lowest deck it's possible to watch the ocean. A regular winter's day in the North Atlantic?







During a kitchens tour, even the dish washer looks happy




Ritual afternoon tea tried out by Rosie, found it too pompous for her tastes. She did say it all tasted scrumptious.







This photo could be named 'Against the odds' or 'Stoic'. These 3 Americans were determined to get some deck time in on their crossing. Real hero's as it was force 9 severe gale at the time.

This time we managed our 3 lap constitutional but at certain points around the deck it became exciting as we were suddenly blown sideways across the deck. The real excitement came when we were blown hard against the rail, pleased we were still holding on to each other.




Mostly unnoticed, but could come in useful one day...




Confirmation of distances for deck 7




Tonight was the last of the 'Formal' dinners. We had skipped the previous two as (a) we didn't have enough formal clothing according to Cunard's recommendations, and (b) we were a bit formal'ed out in general by now. But, the other four at our table had asked the previous evening if we would turn up explaining as they had to eat with us we were formal enough for them, how kind, how could we refuse.

Rosie had been given the tiara by cousin Sue, how could she not wear it at the most formal of the three formal dinners. This was to be the evening where the great and the good were invited to the Captains table, to be followed by a Masked Ball. During the meal Rosie was chuckling away but wouldn't say why. As we finished eating she explained. During the day she heard a woman regale the story where she got into the same lift/elevator that the captain was in. She was so excited to be in such close proximity to such a great man and explained to him she felt honoured. We also heard that some/many onboard were very keen to be introduced to the captain, this is totally lost on us but pleased for those that got their wish, we all have different needs. 

Now don't get this wrong, what an achievement to have attained the role of captain on the Queen Mary 2, must be one of the most sought after jobs in the merchant marine. He's probably a very nice man too and pleasant to meet and very able, but some of the guests had raised him to another level and we don't know why, he's human like the rest of us.

During the meal, one person on the ship sat very close to the captain, me! Ok I didn't know he was there as we sat back to back, but Rosie thought it so funny that no one sat closer. To add to the irony I may have been the least impressed even if I had known. She told me this as he changed places before desert to sit directly opposite his starting place at the table.

The captain is in the second photo at the end of the meal.

Well here we all are, table for six. Don't we all look stuffy (even though we were not). That's everybody except Rosie with her tiara of course! 




Another on-board tradition, the March of the Chefs / Chefs Parade? where everybody applauds each other?


----------



## Devil's Advocate

railiner said:


> Sounds like you are having a wonderful time.


Sounds like two lost and bewildered hippies trying to find their way through a floating country club.  :lol:


----------



## v v

Devil's Advocate said:


> Sounds like two lost and bewildered hippies trying to find their way through a floating country club.  :lol:


Think you nearly have it there DA, but take out the hippies...

Not sure what you will make of later (mis) adventures further down the line, including a chat with a female business leader who I likened as the mother of Attila the Hun.

After all these are personal opinions which maybe should be reigned in a little, even Rosie complained that I didn't give a balanced view of afternoon tea. We'll see.


----------



## Mystic River Dragon

Devil's Advocate said:


> Sounds like two lost and bewildered hippies trying to find their way through a floating country club.  :lol:


Well, I was thinking just the opposite--they look like two elegant, charming passengers who do this sea crossing routinely and fit right in! 

A beautiful chocolate buffet and an even more beautiful library--I think I just added this ship to my bucket list of things to save my travel pennies for!


----------



## Bob Dylan

Mystic River Dragon said:


> Well, I was thinking just the opposite--they look like two elegant, charming passengers who do this sea crossing routinely and fit right in!
> 
> A beautiful chocolate buffet and an even more beautiful library--I think I just added this ship to my bucket list of things to save my travel pennies for!


Since I know this charming couple I totally agree! ^_^

Looking forward to spending time with them this weekend here in Austin as they wind their way through the Country heading home!


----------



## railiner

Mystic River Dragon said:


> and an even more beautiful library--I think I just added this ship to my bucket list of things to save my travel pennies for!


Besides having the largest library at sea, staffed by librarian's;  it also has a very nice book shop, where you can purchase from a large collection of nautical books, charts, etc...


----------



## Devil's Advocate

v v said:


> Think you nearly have it there DA, but take out the hippies...Not sure what you will make of later (mis) adventures further down the line, including a chat with a female business leader who I likened as the mother of Attila the Hun. After all these are personal opinions which maybe should be reigned in a little, even Rosie complained that I didn't give a balanced view of afternoon tea. We'll see.


Fair enough; that's just what popped into my head as I read about your experiences onboard.  I happen to enjoy fancy tea service but I'm still glad you wrote what you felt at the time and didn't try to filter your comments into something slightly more balanced but perhaps a bit less honest.



Mystic River Dragon said:


> Well, I was thinking just the opposite--they look like two elegant, charming passengers who do this sea crossing routinely and fit right in! A beautiful chocolate buffet and an even more beautiful library--I think I just added this ship to my bucket list of things to save my travel pennies for!


They look perfectly fine and it wasn't intended as a criticism.  Besides, in my experience country clubs are full of people who are so sour minded they make people like me look positively jovial by comparison.  Sometimes it's better to be on the outside than the inside.  ^_^


----------



## SarahZ

New career goal:

Librarian on the QM2

(I didn't know this was a thing until now. I am so excited to check out the application requirements.)


----------



## v v

Devil's Advocate said:


> They look perfectly fine and it wasn't intended as a criticism.  Besides, in my experience country clubs are full of people who are so sour minded they make people like me look positively jovial by comparison.  Sometimes it's better to be on the outside than the inside.


Took your comments as you meant them DA, even thought it was very insightful so no problems here. Have to say though it is particularly nice having others write positive things even if they are not deserved.

It's only a personal travel blog and we all see the world through different eyes, so any opinion is welcome.

May have mentioned our country club story before but if not here goes. Friends on Chesapeake took us along to their country club one day, never been in one and were very impressed by the facilities.

Was sitting in the café/bar section having a nice cup of tea, I was facing a door across the room marked 'Gentlemen'. In the UK this is a toilet for men. Over the next 15 minutes or so a number of smart well dressed men went in but never came out, started me wondering what was happening in there as? I'll leave it there...

Later when I mentioned it to our friends they roared with laughter, you are right DA it's a world we are not familiar with.


----------



## cpotisch

Fun fact that I just learned: QM2 was christened 14 years ago, tomorrow. :huh:


----------



## railiner

cpotisch said:


> Fun fact that I just learned: QM2 was christened 14 years ago, tomorrow. :huh:


And by Her Majesty, Queen Elizabeth II


----------



## v v

Just completed Day 7 within the original posting. 

In real time the next up is a visit with Bob but travelling via Denver to get our Greyhound fix.


----------



## v v

Had a few changes and surprises along the way, will complete this travelogue but not sure when at the moment.

Bob Dylan = hero


----------



## flitcraft

The best stories always have an element of suspense...


----------



## caravanman

I noticed that things had gone rather quiet on this thread. Fingers crossed that you and Rosie are both well...

Ed.


----------



## Bob Dylan

:hi: Rosie and Jamie are on the way back to England via Moscow due to Rosie needing surgery  in London on her eye Eddie. 

Jamie posted in another Forum here on AU but due to my Senior Memory ,can't remember which one off hand??


----------



## v v

Yup, we should be taking off for Moscow in a few minutes time, but are already back in London! Things moved fast Bob, will write it all up later.


----------



## caravanman

Sorry to hear, hope for a full recovery...

Ed


----------



## oregon pioneer

caravanman said:


> Sorry to hear, hope for a full recovery...
> 
> Ed


Same here, saw your other thread and it sounds hopeful...


----------



## v v

oregon pioneer said:


> Same here, saw your other thread and it sounds hopeful...




This is Rosie and I would like to thank everyone for their concern and good wishes. I went back to the hospital this morning and had further tests which confirmed that there is no damage to the retina. The visual disturbance should gradually clear and no treatment is needed.

The second consultant confirmed that we did the right thing by returning to the UK to get it checked and has written a letter saying so to back up a travel insurance claim.

We should be on The Texas Eagle at the moment and we are both very disappointed to have had to shorten our travels. We always try to look for a positive though and once again it has been the kindness shown by the wonderful people on this forum. Thank you all.

The blog will continue as soon as we get settled again.

Rosie


----------



## caravanman

Gosh, just so pleased that things seem to be working out to be ok... Can someone point me towards the post/thread where more information is?

Ed.


----------



## cpotisch

caravanman said:


> Gosh, just so pleased that things seem to be working out to be ok... Can someone point me towards the post/thread where more information is?
> 
> Ed.


----------



## v v

*Friday 21 December Day 8  ~  north Atlantic nearing Canada/USA, last sea day*_Updated Brentwood, Essex, UK ~ Wednesday 23 January 2﻿019_

To slowly re-start the blog here are a few photos, accompanying blog text to follow

The balcony seen through our cabin, we found it a boon just to stay in touch with the world outside the ship, plus as much fresh air as your heart desires.




The balcony is permanently open to the sea, although enclosed around the window opening to the ocean. The remainder is almost completely closed above and to the sides.


----------



## v v

*Saturday 22 December Day 9 ~  travelling up river to New York City - very early morning*_Updated Brentwood, Essex, UK ~ Thursday 24 January 2﻿019_

Arriving NYC passing world renown iconic monuments. Having visited Cobh in Ireland where many/most Irish immigrants started from we wanted to see what they saw arriving by ship. First Liberty followed by Ellis Island. Very moving for us as we imagine the hopes and dreams of the millions on first seeing Liberty.

The Queen Mary 2 glides sedately towards it's berth at the Brooklyn Cruise Terminal, located at Red Hook

Some blog text to follow.

Liberty seen from the river, quite magnificent




Just before dawn a panorama. Liberty, NYC ferry, Ellis Island and Manhattan




Iconic sight




...  and dawn breaks quite quickly, completely different effect once light




A view seen only from a ship docking at Red Hook




In fact this time from this ship




Chrysler Building, one of our favourites




All aboard! Wrong transport but looks about right




Liberty under the bow




Looks like a proper Ocean Liner from here, and have to say it does look the part when onboard too. Nothing but admiration for the quality, lines and style of this superb ship.


----------



## Mystic River Dragon

I'm glad no treatment is needed, Rosie, but it was smart of you both to do the sensible thing and go home to get things checked out.

Also glad that you both got to do the sea crossing  .

Jim, you'll keep up the standards on the Texas Eagle til Jamie and Rosie get a chance to come back, right? :giggle:


----------



## v v

*Friday 21 December Day 8  ~  north Atlantic nearing Canada/USA, last sea day  -  Continuation of post #159*_Updated central France ~ Sunday 27 January 2﻿019_

Last day at sea was pretty quiet, but a few characters started to appear. David (the singing history lecturer) and I had again stayed up the previous evening 'til (very) late sitting under the Christmas tree in the foyer talking about life, then more life. This morning Rosie went to breakfast alone, I missed it. She didn't eat alone as she sat with real life Wayne and Waynetta with a background to match. Very forthright with strong opinions but nice people all the same.

Late in the morning I had brunch with Rosie drinking tea, then along comes a close match to The Big Lebowski in the supermarket scene from the first movie. We'd eaten sitting close to him a few times, he was a large man who was a carer for a heavily disabled American man. In our presence they never talked but he arranged everything at meal times for the man in his care and moved him around the ship.

This is the theory. He has less regard than me for pomp, standards rules and regulations, but he was critical help to the man in his care. Over the week his dress code had gone from casual to extremely casual, not only shorts at the evening meal but eventually torn shorts, no socks etc. Outside the Captain we reckoned he was the only other person on the ship nobody could reproach, and of course he got away with it.

This brunch time he turned up in his dressing gown and open flip flops/thongs, very unshaven too. Meandered around picking at this and that food and then went, no one said a word. He wasn't dissimilar to Jeff Bridges to look at either.

The sea was also quiet with almost no roll or pitching, slight sea in a force 6.

Packing and getting ready for 3 1/2 days travel, 2 of our bags will go through to Los Angeles so decisions to be made.

Here's a whinge, a note on the ship's internet. The internet is fabulously expensive on the QM2, it's almost unusable too. The official suggestion if you couldn't make a connection was to open the cabin door to the passageway, and sometimes it helped to knock 2 minutes of a possible 6 minute wait to open a regular web page, if you could connect your computer in the first place. Cunard, everything about your internet is highway robbery and sold under false pretences, pure cr.p.

The last meal in the Britannia restaurant was a little flat. Everyone looked a bit tired, maybe the after dinner formal affair of the previous evening had taken it out of many? The people on our table looked as though their mind was elsewhere, both couples were transferring to a Norwegian Line ship for the cruise down to the Caribean but had made different arrangements to get to the dock that ship would berth at, plus to see New York City as you approach Liberty you had to be awake and dressed by 5am.

As we walked back to our cabin that evening we met with the couple we had met at check-in at Southampton, they of 9 cases. They had booked a suit about 6 or 7 decks above us, very posh indeed. It was also near the bow. He said _"there were many times we wished we had had your cabin, low down and mid-ships"._ We were ill for the first two days and on the rough days at sea the drawers would shoot out of the chest to spill clothes over the floor, and feeling poorly had stopped them drinking! They did laugh at this but said there were times he would have offered a lot of money for our cabin.

Two of our cases had to be left outside the cabin door to be collected and transferred ashore for us on docking in the morning, all done in good time.

Late in the evening went to get a couple of cups of tea from the cafeteria, on the deck above ours the crew were painfully loading cases onto large trolleys to take below. Some of the handling was not careful. Walking along thinking the poor people whose bags were being loaded that evening...

Have to say at this point, apart from baggage handling the staff were immaculate, and friendly too.


----------



## v v

*Saturday 22 December Day 9 ~  arriving in New York City - morning  -  Continuation of post #160*_France ~ Monday 28 January 2﻿019_

We are glued to our balcony watching the world pass the Mary, mainly dry and bright early morning showed each iconic sight at it's best. This has to be the direction to travel, arrival in Southampton just wouldn't be the same, trust me.

After the fascinating arrival up river to New York City we have breakfast by 8:00 am, now have to wait until 10:00 am to disembark. The gathering point for many of us is the Queens Room in the bow, pleasant and comfortable, we make it there by around 9:00am

We soon realise that the group who were to disembark at 9:00 am are still there, they left at 10:00am, we were called at 10:50 am. We had planned to walk all day and evening through the city, but plans change and we'll do as much as is possible.

Down to the hall on the dock-side to collect our bags, yes we were one of the victims of poor handling of luggage, a wheel on one case at a crazy angle, the case was 6 weeks old. Move across to customer services, they don't have a form for damaged baggage but a kind lady takes our details, puts her name on a Cunard headed piece of paper and a phone number, we have to call to sort out a claim.

Through customs easily and walk around 60 yards to the NYC ferry terminal for a ferry to the Wall Street Pier.

Brooklyn Red Hook ferry terminal as seen from the ship. The building lower left is the customs/baggage hall, the lighter curved roof top left in front of the red boat is the ferry terminal with an open waiting area and ticket machine. Note a large number of yellow taxis snaking off to the distance.




We decided on the ferry if it wasn't raining as it has a great view at water level of the city and other sights, and the walk from the Wall Street terminal to the subway system we needed was only about 400 - 500 yards on a very nice pedestrian walkway along the river. The ferry cost of $2.75 each was a bargain.

We had missed 2 ferries we had planned on catching but we are on holiday, as long as we made Radio City by 9pm all would be well. Chatted with another couple who were waiting for the ferry but weren't sure how to get to their hotel in Times Square, so all agreed we'd travel together to Whitehall Street subway station. The entrance was closed due to rebuilding so had to resort to the South Ferry station across the road. It all worked out in the end except we had to take a different line and go past our stop (Canal St) to go back to it.

Really enjoyed the small ferry up the river, and it was comfortable and warm.

Ferry just backing into the Red Hook terminal, the pilots really know how to handle these craft.




We arrive at our hotel the Soho Garden around 4 hours later than anticipated, Canal Street has a lot of energy in it even on a winter's day. Just as we neared the hotel entrance a proper fist fight started between two very fit looking 20 somethings, quite exciting but Rosie nearly got in the way until I yanked her clear. Always said that New York City had a buzz to it...

Hotel basic but clean and had everything we needed, the staff were very accommodating and helpful too. Took the chance to sleep for a couple of hours, we'd been up since 5:00 am and had lugged cases up quite a few stairways when escalators were not working.

Texted our friends in New Jersey that we were running very late, agreed to meet up when we returned to NYC to fly home. 

By around 5:00 pm we had presented our bags for LA to Amtrak in Penn Station, very efficient service and have to write we were pleased not to have to lug them further. Decided on a bite to eat at NY Pizza Suprema at 8th and W 31 St, recommended by some on this forum. We are not big fans of pizza but converted now if they all taste like that. Sat opposite a man in his 30's with a job that probably only exists in the largest of cities, he was charming, friendly and politely inquisitive. It's a meal we will remember.

Then we were free to sample some of the delights of the last Saturday before Christmas in NYC, first stop Macy's.

To be continued...


----------



## v v

*Saturday 22 December Day 9  ~  central Manhattan NYC - evening  -  Continuation of post #160*_France ~ Tuesday 29 January 2﻿019_

Walked north from Pizza Suprema along 8th Ave, passing this entrance to Penn Station in the grand Post Office building opposite Penn, is this a new entrance or did we miss it before?




Turned into E 34th St and walked a couple of blocks to Macy's. Even for NYC the crowds were big, there was an air of excitement especially as there were many families with young children. Can't miss Macy's or it's windows. Lots of people, chairs and tables and even a couple of dancing Salvation Army members, this is not like London at all.










Returned to 8th Ave down 35th St then north to The New York Times Building. It was important to me to actually see where their journalism is created, the building is a lot taller than expected, pretty impressive.




Next east along 42nd St, left on 5th Ave towards Saks, famous for their Christmas window displays. By this time the police had started to shut off roads as the crowds had got larger and larger, this is as near to Saks as we got.




The whole time the crowd were good humoured, no pushing, no shoving just accepting you can't always go where you want. Across to W 49th St to visit the Rockefeller Center, in particular the ice rink, the Art Deco decorations (having attended the Rockefeller talk on the Mary) and the Christmas tree. Apart from not being able to access the area next to the ice rink due to numbers of people, it didn't disappoint.




The tree was amazing, much larger than appeared here and possibly 5 x more lights than we have ever seen on any tree.




It was getting close to 9:00 pm which we are told is the latest we can turn up for the 10:00 pm Rockettes Christmas show, but Radio City theatre is only round the corner so shouldn't take long...

Amazing Art Deco theatre from the 1930's, can see why it is still so popular today. First through a very ornate foyer where we spotted a real Rockette, Rosie was beside herself!




The theatre itself was almost as glamorous




The show was everything Rosie wanted it to be, her favourite routine was the toy soldiers







On our way back to the subway and Canal St we passed this group of buildings, look as good to the naked eye as they do in the photo, we do like short bursts of NYC.




Crowds have thinned now, get back to Canal St and see a McDonalds just down the street that's open, both are dying for a cup of tea (have I mentioned we drink a lot of tea?).

The server helped us out as we managed to order the teas via the remote touch screen, but couldn't manage to add milk, or maybe US McDonalds doesn't associate tea with milk? We ended up with more milk than needed all gratis, happily carried our tea to-go back to our room. Got to bed at 1:00 am, decided to have a lie-in and get up at 5:00 am as we were confident of finding our way to Penn from Canal St now.

I was particularly excited, we'd had a great evening in a city we like more and more with every visit, but in the morning the real part of this holiday would start, back on an Amtrak train...

SarahZ, thanks in particular from Rosie for encouraging us to visit Radio City Rockettes Christmas show, you tipped the balance for us, great advice. Thank you.


----------



## cpotisch

Wonderful pics! Sounds like you had a great time around here!


----------



## v v

cpotisch said:


> Wonderful pics! Sounds like you had a great time around here!


Thank you Sir, we really enjoyed ourselves.


----------



## v v

*Sunday 23 December Day 10 ~  leaving  New York City*_France ~ Friday 8 February 2﻿019_

Our first Amtrak train ride of this journey, even though we only got 4 hours sleep we were excited. At 5:15am it was an easy Subway journey to Penn, although like all world cities they never sleep and plenty of other riders.

Arrived at New York Penn (NYP) station and already knew the lounge wouldn't open until our train left, so just stood out in the concourse watching the world go by and waiting for our train platform to be called. The station was busy even though it was early Sunday, many fellow travellers had bags too. Guess they were going somewhere for the holidays.

*Amtrak 51 Cardinal  - Departing NYP at 06:45am 23 December 2018   -    Arriving Chicago Union (CHI) station at 10:00am  ~  Roomette*

NYP station, busy with people waiting for platforms to be called

 


We are so pleased to be back on an Amtrak LD train, have never ridden the Cardinal before and looking forward to the ride. Make ourselves comfortable in the roomette and immediately off to the diner for breakfast, it's only 07:00am very early for us.

On our way back to our sleeper a couple in Business stopped us, they had heard us talking and wanted to chat. An hour an a half later we were near Washington and they get off there, they had a couple of days of 'meetings'.

They were perfectly charming, extremely interesting and fascinating to talk with. Not sure who they were but they were very high achievers in banking, Wall Street and insurance. He had created a new form of finance insurance, she had some memorable 'firsts' on the Wall Street trading floor and in the boardrooms of banks. The only problem we had with them was if we mentioned any form of social care or universal health cover. At the very mention her entire being changed to the point I thought of her as the mother of Attila the Hun, an amazing transformation. He sat there grinning but saying nothing, he looked a bit like Jack Nicholson. It was a fascinating meeting and one we were very pleased to have had, apparently they stopped us as they had operated in Europe too and recognised our accents. The people you meet on trains...

After this we collapsed into bed until 1pm, we woke to the lovely Virginia scenery. Pity the room windows were too dirty to take photos as there were many beautiful sights and settings. It's probably hard to keep the windows clean in a northern winter.

Staff all had Xmas clothes on, a pullover here, a hat there. When asked if it was ok to work so close to Xmas most said they would spend time with family just a few days late, no complaints.

The diner had a grumpy server and only 2 meal options. In our travels if the food doesn't look appealing we go for anything veggie, but there was no veggie option either. We both ate very little as the quality and preparation was very poor, first time have ever written this about Amtrak. To cap it off the heater in our room wasn't working, the catch on the door wouldn't lock and flew open from time to time. We would have liked another room but looked as though the car was full, maybe we just are a bit grumpy ourselves as so tired?

I managed to tie the door mostly closed and wedged bags into it so it didn't move, not too bad a night's sleep but we slept with our coats on.


----------



## v v

*Monday 24 December Day 11 ~  arriving and leaving Chicago*_France ~ Saturday 9 February 2﻿019_

As we wake the Cardinal is crossing flat open farmland and the sky is blue. Rosie is off to breakfast early (last call 08:00am) where she eats with Jimmy, he talks about music, Le Mans and Ferraris, I remain in bed and miss this. Jimmy is also headed south on the same Southwest Chief, he's off to visit his 97 year old mum and sister in Albuquerque. Jimmy will feature often on that part of our journey.

The woes of that Cardinal trip didn't end last night as now business class car rest rooms were full, out of use. Had to use a coach car rest rooms, but soon that was full too, what's happening Amtrak? Rosie said the mood of the dining car attendant hadn't improved with the new day, barked at Jimmy as he questioned something, not something we had come across anywhere in the US. 

We'd mostly only heard good things about the Cardinal so put all this down to a one off trip, everyone can have a bad day, or two...

Pleased to arrive in Chicago, we like Chicago a lot. Off to the station Metropolitan Lounge, is this the best Amtrak lounge in the US now? Upstairs is an oasis of quiet and comfortable seating, we both enjoy the artwork on the walls too. At the lounge desk waiting to check-in a lady behind Rosie started talking to her,  she was also travelling to visit her mother and sister, in Fargo ND. She was travelling on the Empire Builder later that day, it left about 40 minutes before ours.

As we all moved into the lounge she and Rosie continued talking in the downstairs seating, I was introduced to Jimmy and we talked for a while but I had to catch up on emails so moved upstairs.

An hour or so later returned downstairs and meet Marilyn who had travelled up from Tennessee. She explained she was born in Fargo and grew up there until she married. I asked are the people there weird as seen in the movie and tv series, she said 'yes' then came out with this memorable line. "When I lived in Fargo I thought people from everywhere else were strange, after I left and had lived away for a while I realised it was me and the people of Fargo that were strange".

This is music to our ears as we love all the Fargo film and tv, and to meet someone who was born and lived there was such an exciting moment. That she said Fargo really was weird makes it all the better. 

Rosie and I had planned to eat at Lou Mitchell's a couple of blocks away, it would be our second visit and asked Marilyn if she wanted to join us but she was too nervous as she might just miss her train. We guaranteed she had no problems as LM's isn't that far and we would personally put her on her train, that did it and good company she was too,

We get a nice booth in the center of the diner, good waiting staff and Marilyn recommended Denver omelettes which we had never heard of, very good choice for hungry people. The place was packed and as in New York quite a few families with children too, very happy and jolly atmosphere. LM's is another great recommendation from this forum.

THE Lou Mitchell's







We learn that after Marilyn and her husband spent 25 years teaching in Japan they settled in Tennessee, although both are from Fargo. She has an extraordinary family which at times sounded like a tv sitcom. She was a very positive person but a little anxious about travelling on her own. She was such a nice person to have lunch with and she was born in Fargo!

At the end of our meal she started to get a little anxious about her train, she couldn't walk far or fast and that bothered her. So we left with plenty of time to make her train, Rosie holding one arm and I the other. Well us three amigos made it back to the lounge in time, recovered Marilyn's case, she said her goodbyes to Rosie then I walked her to the correct platform. After helping her board in the right car she smiled and thanked us. That made my day, gave Marilyn a little hug and off back to Rosie as we were leaving soon too. Back at the lounge Rosie produced Marilyn's shawl, spoke with the staff in the lounge and they said it was too late to run back there, the train was just about gone. Marilyn had given Rosie her address, we'd send it to her from LA.

Rosie took these photos while I escorted Marilyn, think most people reading this know of The Polar Express and it's customs. Not sure if the parents or children were the most excited.







We didn't get to have our walk to the lake but sometimes you can't have everything. We had blue skies, used the lounge, a memorable lunch, met someone from Fargo, it's Christmas Eve and we are soon to be on the Southwest Chief heading to LA, how fortunate can you get.

To be continued...


----------



## SarahZ

v v said:


> SarahZ, thanks in particular from Rosie for encouraging us to visit Radio City Rockettes Christmas show, you tipped the balance for us, great advice. Thank you.


I'm so pleased. You are most welcome. I wish you could see how big my smile is right now. I'm glad you enjoyed the show!


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## caravanman

Nice to see you are "back on track" with your trip reports, always a pleasure to read the detailed information, and see the great photos.

Ed.


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## cpotisch

Thank you so much for continuing to update this!  

Sorry to hear about your experience on the Cardinal. The Amfleet II diner-lite it uses just has a convection oven for cooking facilities, so has to serve that limit selection of heat-and-eat entrees. But even with the prohibiting equipment, poor service like that is never okay. :angry:  Hope I don't end up with that same LSA when I ride the Card for the first time this June.

Hopefully your dining experience on the Chief was a bit better...


----------



## v v

*Monday 24 December Day 11 ~  leaving Chicago*_France ~ Sunday 10 February 2﻿019_

*Amtrak 3 Southwest Chief  - Departing CHI at 02:50pm 24 December 2018   -    Arriving Los Angeles Union station (LAX) at 08:00am  26 December 2018  ~  Roomette*

We get precise directions to our platform, are we becoming old hands at riding Amtrak trains as it all feels so effortless. Happy with our roomette, polite Sleeping Car Attendant (SCA), we are doing well. Later he mentions he was asked to work at very short notice as someone had called in sick, didn't mind as his mum was working too so no one at home anyway.

The atmosphere through the train felt jolly and light hearted, the dining car was good too. We get to eat with a two doctors from Lawrence KS, their 3 teenage sons were at the table across the passageway. They were a happy group of people who had spent a couple of pre Christmas days in Chicago and were returning home on the stroke of Christmas Day. He and she also had a real sense of humour which came out when they heard my name. Did I have nieces and nephews, _"yes?". _So you are Uncle Jamie _"well yes I suppose I am". _Roars of laughter including Rosie, what's going on. Bet they like you though? _"not sure but hope so"_, more laughter but I'm none the wiser. Am I the only person who hasn't seen the movie 'Love Actually'?

Good company, good diner staff, real cutlery and fabric napkins, what more could we want, we are very happy. Christmas Day in the morning.


----------



## oregon pioneer

v v said:


> Am I the only person who hasn't seen the movie 'Love Actually'?


I haven't seen it either, but now I am intrigued...

I am still having so much fun following along with you... thank you for getting back to us. And I am so glad that you and especially Rosie are not worse for the wear.


----------



## v v

*Tuesday 25 December Day 12 ~  Christmas Day on the rails*_France ~ Sunday 10 February 2﻿019_

Blue sky on Christmas morning. Santa Claus welcomes us all to Raton NM, now we all know where he really comes from. His helper Elf is to his left carrying his stash of presents




Thanks for being so sweet Jennifer, this post is for you from Rosie and me.


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## PVD

of course the irony of you not seeing "Love Actually" is where the movie is set......


----------



## v v

PVD said:


> of course the irony of you not seeing "Love Actually" is where the movie is set......


Got to see this now, especially before I start introducing myself as Uncle Jamie!


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## SarahZ

v v said:


> Got to see this now, especially before I start introducing myself as Uncle Jamie!


It's pretty cute. I used to watch it every Christmas.


----------



## v v

*Tuesday 25 December Day 12 ~  Christmas Day on the rails*﻿ - _continued__France ~ Tuesday 12 February 2﻿019_

Rosie up well before 7am, me later. Just getting into one of our favourite areas of the US. Colorado round the corner into New Mexico and Arizona. We never tire of travelling through here, ever.

We breakfast and Jimmy turns up before we're done, this starts a more or less non stop conversation ending as Jimmy gets into his sisters car at Albuquerque about 6 hours later. Now this man has had an extraordinary life, not all good but extraordinary by any standards.

First there's a pause as we arrive a little early in Raton NM and have chance to take some time outside, where lo and behold is Santa Claus. Why he and his Elf helper are there we'll never know, but it made the few children happy, and some of the grown-up kids too.

What doesn't this Raton store sell. To us it looks so American west as though it were a movie set.




We're on the move again in the Sight Seeing Lounge (SSL), Jimmy starts to tell his story but jumping backwards and forwards so sometimes difficult to follow. Basically he's a professional musician, plays guitar usually on someone else's recordings. His speciality is blues music, I think Delta Blues if I have that right. It's ok to mention this but he is an alcoholic too, but has been dry for 10 years now.

His other passion is cars, in particular Ferrari. His dad was heavily involved in getting Ferraris to race at Indianapolis, he was involved in a couple of race teams including a team that raced in the 24 Hours at Le Mans, and won the junior class 3 times too!

He grew up with music, his whole family were artistic or musical, his dad was mad keen on Italian fast car engineering. Jimmy went everywhere with his dad, met lots and lots of very famous people through racing. When he started playing music professionally music and fast cars often cropped up in the same place, he spent time with a lot of famous people.

He and I had European cars in common, me not anywhere near to his experience but a little. At least when he mentioned a race, a driver or a car there was a good chance I'd know a little too, but although I like blues music that's where our similarity stopped in music.

I'm not going to name drop on his behalf but he mentioned so many people we all know of, they were all in passing as he appears to exist in a very transient world. I was impressed he played with Muddy Waters though, he will have been fairly young too.

While Jimmy and I are in deep conversation we arrive at Las Vegas NM, where Rosie caught this scene.

Happy Christmas




Rosie turns off and day dreams if there is too much car talk, but didn't forget we had to go to Christmas Dinner (lunch) in the diner. The three of us eat together and talk non car, but as soon as the meal is over it's back to life again. Who you bump into at AA, have you driven a Dino Ferrari, families etc etc etc.

View from an Amtrak diner window, just perfect




Christmas Dinner, which was different but still tasty 




Still intense




As we neared Albuquerque Jimmy became preoccupied and a little edgy, he was worried that his mum wouldn't recognise him at all, she barely did 6 months earlier as she has full dementia. At 97 it wasn't a surprise, but still very upsetting.

We arrive at Albuquerque he is ready to leave, I offer to walk out to the front of the station with him to wait for his sister to arrive, he's almost unsure of himself. As we get to the road his sister turns into the parking area. Say hello to her, big hand shake from Jimmy and then I have to go.  

People that you meet on trains...




We receive a Happy Christmas text from friends in NYC, very nice they thought to send that. Rosie thinks it feels slightly bizarre riding on a train through the high plains of New Mexico looking at semi desert and receiving a message on Christmas Day from an American city a long long way away. We've got to try harder to keep up with the modern world girl.

Scenery is really good, mountains away to our right some with snow, and varied plain and hill to mountain country to our left. The Adobe buildings from time to time are a favourite of Rosie, it is a very good day.

A few photos of New Mexico at sunset on Christmas Day. The golden trees were exactly that colour, quite amazing.













Dinner in the diner. Sat with two women, elderly mother and daughter from Santa Monica. Mother was from Galway, Ireland and left when she was 18. Travelled alone by ship to NYC, 13 days on the ship. Then found her way onto a plane to fly to join her sister in San Francisco. She said all her brothers and sisters left Ireland, either to London or the USA. We told mother that we had visited both Cobh near Cork where she had sailed from, and Ellis Island where she thinks she arrived at. She did mention seeing Liberty as they arrived and what a wondrous sight it had been.

Not sure how the conversation started but they talked about homeless people in Santa Monica. The daughter told us various stories and situations about those people who sleep on the beach but must move away when it's light, and those that sleep in various corners near to housing, as they feel 'safer' in Santa Monica than other areas. They said the numbers keep rising and no one appears to have an answer. Homelessness is our passion so will leave the conversation there, don't want to politicise this thread.

Back to our room, each had a good shower, last cup of tea and we're ready for bed and arriving in LA in the morning.


----------



## v v

SarahZ said:


> It's pretty cute. I used to watch it every Christmas.


Ah, that lets me out then


----------



## cpotisch

v v said:


> *Tuesday 25 December Day 12 ~  Christmas Day on the rails*﻿ - _continued__France ~ Tuesday 12 February 2﻿019_
> 
> Rosie up well before 7am, me later. Just getting into one of our favourite areas of the US. Colorado round the corner into New Mexico and Arizona. We never tire of travelling through here, ever.
> 
> We breakfast and Jimmy turns up before we're done, this starts a more or less non stop conversation ending as Jimmy gets into his sisters car at Albuquerque about 6 hours later. Now this man has had an extraordinary life, not all good but extraordinary by any standards.
> 
> First there's a pause as we arrive a little early in Raton NM and have chance to take some time outside, where lo and behold is Santa Claus. Why he and his Elf helper are there we'll never know, but it made the few children happy, and some of the grown-up kids too.
> 
> What doesn't this Raton store sell. To us it looks so American west as though it were a movie set.
> 
> View attachment 12425
> 
> 
> We're on the move again in the Sight Seeing Lounge (SSL), Jimmy starts to tell his story but jumping backwards and forwards so sometimes difficult to follow. Basically he's a professional musician, plays guitar usually on someone else's recordings. His speciality is blues music, I think Delta Blues if I have that right. It's ok to mention this but he is an alcoholic too, but has been dry for 10 years now.
> 
> His other passion is cars, in particular Ferrari. His dad was heavily involved in getting Ferraris to race at Indianapolis, he was involved in a couple of race teams including a team that raced in the 24 Hours at Le Mans, and won the junior class 3 times too!
> 
> He grew up with music, his whole family were artistic or musical, his dad was mad keen on Italian fast car engineering. Jimmy went everywhere with his dad, met lots and lots of very famous people through racing. When he started playing music professionally music and fast cars often cropped up in the same place, he spent time with a lot of famous people.
> 
> He and I had European cars in common, me not anywhere near to his experience but a little. At least when he mentioned a race, a driver or a car there was a good chance I'd know a little too, but although I like blues music that's where our similarity stopped in music.
> 
> I'm not going to name drop on his behalf but he mentioned so many people we all know of, they were all in passing as he appears to exist in a very transient world. I was impressed he played with Muddy Waters though, he will have been fairly young too.
> 
> While Jimmy and I are in deep conversation we arrive at Las Vegas NM, where Rosie caught this scene.
> 
> Happy Christmas
> 
> View attachment 12426
> 
> 
> Rosie turns off and day dreams if there is too much car talk, but didn't forget we had to go to Christmas Dinner (lunch) in the diner. The three of us eat together and talk non car, but as soon as the meal is over it's back to life again. Who you bump into at AA, have you driven a Dino Ferrari, families etc etc etc.
> 
> View from an Amtrak diner window, just perfect
> 
> View attachment 12427
> 
> 
> Christmas Dinner, which was different but still tasty
> 
> View attachment 12428
> 
> 
> Still intense
> 
> View attachment 12429
> 
> 
> As we neared Albuquerque Jimmy became preoccupied and a little edgy, he was worried that his mum wouldn't recognise him at all, she barely did 6 months earlier as she has full dementia. At 97 it wasn't a surprise, but still very upsetting.
> 
> We arrive at Albuquerque he is ready to leave, I offer to walk out to the front of the station with him to wait for his sister to arrive, he's almost unsure of himself. As we get to the road his sister turns into the parking area. Say hello to her, big hand shake from Jimmy and then I have to go.
> 
> People that you meet on trains...
> 
> View attachment 12430
> 
> 
> We receive a Happy Christmas text from friends in NYC, very nice they thought to send that. Rosie thinks it feels slightly bizarre riding on a train through the high plains of New Mexico looking at semi desert and receiving a message on Christmas Day from an American city a long long way away. We've got to try harder to keep up with the modern world girl.
> 
> Scenery is really good, mountains away to our right some with snow, and varied plain and hill to mountain country to our left. The Adobe buildings from time to time are a favourite of Rosie, it is a very good day.
> 
> A few photos of New Mexico at sunset on Christmas Day. The golden trees were exactly that colour, quite amazing.
> 
> View attachment 12431
> 
> 
> View attachment 12432
> 
> 
> View attachment 12433
> 
> 
> View attachment 12434
> 
> 
> Dinner in the diner. Sat with two women, elderly mother and daughter from Santa Monica. Mother was from Galway, Ireland and left when she was 18. Travelled alone by ship to NYC, 13 days on the ship. Then found her way onto a plane to fly to join her sister in San Francisco. She said all her brothers and sisters left Ireland, either to London or the USA. We told mother that we had visited both Cobh near Cork where she had sailed from, and Ellis Island where she thinks she arrived at. She did mention seeing Liberty as they arrived and what a wondrous sight it had been.
> 
> Not sure how the conversation started but they talked about homeless people in Santa Monica. The daughter told us various stories and situations about those people who sleep on the beach but must move away when it's light, and those that sleep in various corners near to housing, as they feel 'safer' in Santa Monica than other areas. They said the numbers keep rising and no one appears to have an answer. Homelessness is our passion so will leave the conversation there, don't want to politicise this thread.
> 
> Back to our room, each had a good shower, last cup of tea and we're ready for bed and arriving in LA in the morning.


Wow. Absolutely amazing writing and pictures. Particular loved those golden trees, the dining car, and the cowboy giving that lady a hug. Well done.


----------



## v v

Mr cpotisch, now you are embarrassing us, but thank you very much all the same

ps: Didn't mean to be ungracious, just don't handle praise very well


----------



## oregon pioneer

Jamie, you said "one last cup of tea." I am a tea drinker, too, and it's always a puzzle how to get tea other than at meals, when I am in a roomette. Do you pay for it in the cafe? Ask for hot water in the diner? Or bring along a hot pot (or coil heater) and make your own? I have done the first two, but not the third.

Once, and only once, my SCA brought an electric teakettle and left it available (with many snacks and magazines) in his roomette #1. That was the wonderful Charles, on the Empire Builder. I wonder if he is still with Amtrak? Every other time, I have had to scheme and put up with the waste of styrofoam cups, even though I always have my own travel mug with me. I usually bring my own teabags, as well.


----------



## caravanman

One of the problems that I find with "American tea" is that folk try to make it with hot water, rather than fully boiling temperature water.

I always carry my trusty travel kettle, dual voltage, and P.G. teabags no matter where I go!

One can get hot water from the cafe car at most times, sadly it is not boiling...  

Interestingly, I stayed at the Santa Monica hostel a few years ago, and got into conversation with an outreach guy helping the homeless. I guess if one is homeless and down on one's luck at least the weather in that area is better than most places.

Ed.


----------



## Devil's Advocate

You obviously run into a lot of interesting characters who talk at length about many curious subjects.  Have you ever considered creating a blog or book with more transparent writing and fewer filters?


----------



## cpotisch

caravanman said:


> One of the problems that I find with "American tea" is that folk try to make it with hot water, rather than fully boiling temperature water.


I always make my Chai with actual boiling water.


----------



## v v

*Wednesday 26 December Day 13 ~  Arrival in Los Angeles*_France ~ Wednesday 13 February 2﻿019_

We were told that freight didn't run on Christmas Day, apparently the only day it doesn't run? This must be the reason we were early nearly everywhere and had longish stops at places there were not supposed to be stops.

Almost at the stroke of midnight the freight started, so we waited in a siding? which feels normal. That happened a couple of times in succession. Even though we were at the mercy of freight schedules again we still arrived in LAX Union Station 40 minutes early, at 07:20am.

We had really enjoyed our Amtrak Christmas train journey, not so different to any other winter journey except the amount of people travelling to be with family, this seemed to lift the atmosphere to jolly.

Very pleased to have reached LA, it's our favourite station in the US. The sky was bright southern California blue, palm trees just outside, and our dear friend Milton was standing waiting for us clutching a board with words on, but in code...  He was a scientist after all and obviously likes to mentally challenge us. Have to admit Rosie broke the code _'Rosie and Jamie welcome back'_  She a primary teacher, me only Uncle Jamie




We subsequently learnt that he had to drive to 3 different Wal-Mart's to get all the correct letters too.

We did wonder how he managed to know when to get to the station as we were so early, he used a tracker but not sure which one.

Milton is not a morning person, but must have got up very early and to make sure to meet us, it's about an hour and a quarter drive on a good day. We did write for him not to worry about meeting us as we knew early mornings were not his strong point and it was easy for us to get to Chatsworth his nearest station. From there it was a single bus to within 100 yards of his condo, no big deal.

But he decided we'd like to be met and we did, a very happy reunion.

By 9 o'clock we were drinking tea at chez Milton, much to catch up on, 9 months of news and tomorrow we were all off again.

Contacted Norma, Milton's friend for 50 years and we all go to breakfast at Mimi's. Some of us over-ate, some were more reserved. It was a lovely breakfast eating with these two people who are so full of life.

The busy section of the large table




Both Norma and Milton had big news indeed. She was moving after living at her home for more than 40 years, moving to the south of LA as it's not so built up. She was doing this with gusto, organising her new-old place to be remodelled, selling her existing home and arranging all sorts of other things, she's 89 looks 75 and acts 60.

Milton had very big news. He was giving up active farming and will just mow his 500 acres that are not woodlands, he wont grow any more crops. We had worried about him for the last few years as all his part time hands/friends are nearly as old as he is, and a haystack had fallen on him last year too.

He can't give up his farm, it's where he was born and wants to stay the rest of his life, and doesn't want to watch out the window seeing someone else farming it either. It was his parents farm, he took it over when he retired from rocketing, paid them for the place and bought back all the pieces his mum and dad sold off to put all the kids through college.

Now he will buy the easiest large mower he can, attach it to his largest tractor and poodle around 3 times a year to keep it looking good, we told him it was a splendid idea.

Not much else today as we had to be off early tomorrow, another Queen Mary awaits.


----------



## v v

oregon pioneer said:


> Jamie, you said "one last cup of tea." I am a tea drinker, too, and it's always a puzzle how to get tea other than at meals, when I am in a roomette. Do you pay for it in the cafe? Ask for hot water in the diner? Or bring along a hot pot (or coil heater) and make your own? I have done the first two, but not the third.
> 
> Once, and only once, my SCA brought an electric teakettle and left it available (with many snacks and magazines) in his roomette #1. That was the wonderful Charles, on the Empire Builder. I wonder if he is still with Amtrak? Every other time, I have had to scheme and put up with the waste of styrofoam cups, even though I always have my own travel mug with me. I usually bring my own teabags, as well.


Jennifer, for the last couple of years we have tried to cut back on bags and weight, have stopped bringing our hook on the side-of-a-cup water heater. Also means we don't have to have 2 china cups either. This year as we had extra clothes for the QM2 we said why not take it, but it had a fault and only found out on the day before we left.

As we are mostly in sleeper we get 6 cups of tea each day with meals, for the rest we buy in the café car.

As Ed and Mr Potisch mention, tea water should be boiling, it makes a difference. Like Ed we carry tea bags with us too, just a different make, Yorkshire. We have never been to India but we all know Ed has a lot, he has obviously refined his taste for tea there. For travelling we are happy with Liptons Black or Breakfast tea when drinking out.



caravanman said:


> One of the problems that I find with "American tea" is that folk try to make it with hot water, rather than fully boiling temperature water.
> 
> I always carry my trusty travel kettle, dual voltage, and P.G. teabags no matter where I go!
> 
> One can get hot water from the cafe car at most times, sadly it is not boiling...
> 
> Interestingly, I stayed at the Santa Monica hostel a few years ago, and got into conversation with an outreach guy helping the homeless. I guess if one is homeless and down on one's luck at least the weather in that area is better than most places.
> 
> Ed.


In agreement with you on tea Ed, but have not got your high taste. My granddad was a soldier in India about 1900 on, he was there about 10 years. He taught all the grand kids how to make tea properly just as he had my mum and her siblings.

The homeless we have talked with in western US say they live on the west coast for just that reason, and the people are more liberal which gives them an easier time.



Devil's Advocate said:


> You obviously run into a lot of interesting characters who talk at length about many curious subjects.  Have you ever considered creating a blog or book with more transparent writing and fewer filters?


No never DA, I'm not a writer and in effect only write here as I was asked to.

So many people get help on this forum even though we ask some pretty dumb questions of the experts and experienced. Personally have always had so much help whenever I asked which has always enhanced our journeys, so how could I not try to write about our little adventures if it pleases people here. Giving something back. Have to add quite enjoy writing now but it takes a lot of time as we still work, and we are living in the strange world of Brexit too.

After having a conversation with anyone, the last thing they will think of is it will be written about for others to read. Except for friends I always try very hard not to identify anyone, just not fair on them.

I'd like to add. We meet quite a few extraordinary people, and they don't have to be famous, rich or highly intelligent to be extraordinary, but we all know that. There is something interesting in everyone if they are prepared to talk. Some of the most memorable people in our travels were poor, that's sometimes very poor or in a bad situation.

Don't know how it happens so frequently, but perhaps this is the reason? When travelling we always have time for other people, we don't have a lot of money but when on a journey we are rich in time. Most people travel for work or need to get somewhere in a hurry. We are prepared to modify the next hour or next day's plans if the circumstances warrant it, and we are interested in everything and every one at one level or another.

How do you meet people?



cpotisch said:


> I always make my Chai with actual boiling water.


Where did you learn that?


----------



## cpotisch

v v said:


> cpotisch said:
> 
> 
> 
> I always make my Chai with actual boiling water.
> 
> 
> 
> Where did you learn that?
Click to expand...

I guess we just didn't learn not to?  :unsure:


----------



## SarahZ

My grandmother and mother both had tea kettles. When I was little, I loved the sound they made. (I still love that sound, actually.)

When I lived in the dorms, I could only use a microwave, so that meant microwaving a cup of water until it was really hot. I think this is how most Americans "prepare" tea.

Once I was older and moved into my own place, I bought a proper tea kettle. I use it for tea and hot chocolate.


----------



## caravanman

I understand that remarks about my taste in teabags were a little "tongue in cheek", but although a big producer of tea, most Indian tea is rather different.

Chai, mixing the milk, sugar and tea and boiling it up together is a great drink, especially masala chai, where spices are added too. 

Maybe I am "carrying coals to Newcastle", but the P.G. tea goes to India with me too.   

When growing up in the London area, it was quite common to hear east end folk refer to tea as a cuppa charr, I guess that came from the Indian "chai".

Milton sounds a character, let him know about felt tip marker pens for his next coded message!

Ed.


----------



## PVD

Many of the hotels I have stayed at over the last few years have drastically improved their tea offerings, often having a little set up next to the in room coffee with a number of choices.


----------



## v v

PVD said:


> Many of the hotels I have stayed at over the last few years have drastically improved their tea offerings, often having a little set up next to the in room coffee with a number of choices.


Part of our criteria when looking at hotels is can we make tea. There appear to be fewer microwaves and more hot water machines of various types.


----------



## v v

*Thursday 27 December Day 14  ~  Another Queen*_France ~ Saturday 16 February 2﻿019_

Milton had suggested way back that it would be interesting to book a night on the Queen Mary at Long Beach CA, we agreed but thought about the cost, we had just come off of one of those. After persevering found a superb deal for a Thursday night, Friday and Saturday were a different kettle of fish.

Up early as we had to pack a lot in. First down to Laguna Woods to take a look at Norma's soon to be new home, then drive back along the coast to Long Beach park that is across the water to the Queen Mary. From there we could see the ship in it's full glory, then round to a restaurant 'The Reef' for a late lunch before booking into the QM.

The new old home was just right for Norma's needs, in the largest gated community we had seen. Once everything was done Norma would be in heaven, good for her.

Next, along the coast road from Laguna Beach heading north to Long Beach, neither Norma or Milton had ever driven it as they were freeway and interstate freaks. We all really enjoyed the drive, although a little busy, but nothing like LA freeways. 

I had previously written the route through to the park then onto the restaurant and QM parking for our GPS, but something went very wrong as we approached the park. We were on the right road but heading into the traffic the wrong way on a one way road, no exit or place to turn. Milton (the driver) didn't panic at all, and that was scary. Eventually after what felt like hours he managed to find an exit to turn around in, and in a hurry too. Well done to Milton. Gertie the GPS did get a right telling off though.

Never saw the park but did get to The Reef, phew we were all relieved. Milton thought it deserved a round of Root Beers, but he was the only taker.

The Reef is a very nice restaurant, good service, great location right on the water and nice atmosphere. We had a late lunch with plenty to talk about, and we could see the Queen Mary across the car park.

Sitting in the restaurant just pleased we had made it in one piece




Fabulous setting with good food




Milton showing us what he really wanted to do when driving the wrong way




The view in front of us as we walk back to the car




Then round to the QM car park, but what is a Russian submarine doing there?




It's busy checking in but not too bad. We are allocated our rooms all on the same deck but get three very different rooms. Ours had 2 single beds with the bases touching, Norma had an outside room with a view across the water to Long Beach, Milton had the cupboard under the stairs, all were the same price.

The entrance as you come aboard. In it's own way as magnificent as the one on the QM2




What a red carpet




We all find our cabins cold, there is air coming out of the heating ducts but's it's cold. We check with the others and all are the same, so up to reception to ask for some heat. The next part really happened. Two sets of people in front of us, we all have the same problem cold rooms. The clerk performed this.

"OK, I'll get onto maintenance, which room number is it?" Picks up phone and says quite loudly "Maintenance, we have a cold room", at which point he takes three steps away from the desk, his voice drops to an unintelligible whisper. After talking and listening for maybe a minute or so he steps back to the desk. They are onto the problem and heat will be coming through, it will take up to 20 minutes though so be patient. Customer, pleased it may just be warm enough to take their coat off in the cabin "Thanks for helping".

By the time we are up with the same request, can we have some heating please? I've worked out what the clerk was doing, he was miming into the phone, a bit like when a young child talks to an imaginary friend. So we go through the pantomime and say thanks, it was an interesting performance but out hopes sink of getting any heat. From then on this ship is known as 'Cold Mary'

It's now evening with a stiff breeze, two of the decks are open amidships to the outside, permanently. Fresh air is one description. We take a stroll around the promenade deck, what stands out is the amount of rivets that were used to build this ship, must have been millions. It's decorated with lots of lights and Christmas trees, very pretty too.

Go to dinner in the Chelsea Chowder House restaurant, a good meal we all agreed.

Check all our cabins...  freezing. One by one I turn all the heating ducts off. Some are closable if you hit the right spot, some need pullovers, or some such pushed into them, it all helps.

So that made for an early night, everyone kept their coats on in bed...

Beautiful teak decks, just like her younger sister




Corridor to the cabins, wider than QM2 and more decorative. A lot of real wood is used.




  How about these, what looked like original Art Deco lamps above the bathroom sink


----------



## caravanman

Nice place to stay, and interesting to compare with the QM2. Shame about the icy blasts coming from the a/c, maybe the Russian sub was sabotaging things...  

That style of art deco moulded glass pictured above looks as though it may be by Lalique.

Ed.


----------



## v v

caravanman said:


> Nice place to stay, and interesting to compare with the QM2. Shame about the icy blasts coming from the a/c, maybe the Russian sub was sabotaging things...
> 
> That style of art deco moulded glass pictured above looks as though it may be by Lalique.
> 
> Ed.


I didn't explain it well Ed. It wasn't air conditioning, it was the warm air system blowing out cold air. The main public spaces were cold to very cold as they had these entrance ways on the port side of the ship without doors, the openings were about 25 - 30 feet wide.

Also have to say that LA was going through a real cold spell, for them a very cold spell as you can read about at the Rose Parade a few days later. Looking around the grandstand we were sitting in we could have been in Berlin in winter going by the clothes people were wearing. The cold weather added to the fact the QM had no heating over the 2 days we were on board.

See the next day's comment on the dress code at breakfast.

The lamps were part of what looked like a lot of original Art Deco fittings,  but the rivets won out for attention.


----------



## PVD

Seeing riveted steel ships is always special, pretty much any large steel ship is welded today. Of course, large ships are built very differently in may other ways also.


----------



## v v

*Friday 28 December Day 15  ~  exploring Queen Mary*_France ~ Sunday 17 February 2﻿019_

Good night's sleep but didn't want to get out of bed, and how brave have you got to be to wash in this cool cabin. Then it hit us, use the hair dryer in the bathroom. Bingo! the bathroom was the place to be with the hair dryer going full blast constantly. Made us laugh to think of the power surge there must be onboard if everyone has the same idea when they woke.

Off to breakfast with a striking view across the mouth of the Los Angeles river to Long Beach, almost matches riding in an Amtrak diner. Rosie picked up on the restaurant staff were working with fleece jackets and scarves on, so it wasn't only us then.

We make a plan, Milton and I take the bags across to the car so our rooms are empty, then spend the morning looking around Cold Mary.

From the QM car park, a stately ship indeed




Seen on a beautiful clear day the ship looked at it's best. Lots of nooks and crannies, history and craftsmen workmanship to be seen.  The interior design was started in the late 1920's, building started in 1930. That the ship is pure Art Deco is no surprise, it was the very peak of the Art Deco movement.

The bridge is possibly the most notable difference between the two Marys, here is the QM requiring quite a few seamen to handle the ship. The QM2 had computer screens, keyboards and no discernible wheel, the QM had 3 wheels and all the equipment seen here. The bridge (when at sea) on QM2 has 3 people sitting on high backed bar stool type chairs mainly chatting. No expert but expect computers steer that ship?




View from the starboard side looking across at Long Beach and beyond to the mountains, notice the snow on them thar hills this far south, and so close to the ocean.




For you PVD...  rivets!




A few previous passengers




and Miss Snooty as well (I just love this photo)




Couldn't leave out Milton and his 'girls'




After a couple of hours we are off back to the San Fernando Valley, Milton declined any help from Gertie. It will take a week or three for Rosie and I to make comparisons of the two ships, so much is happening we haven't time to think yet. It hadn't really occurred to us until leaving QM that it had only been 5 days and about 3000 miles since we stepped off Hot Mary to boarding Cold Mary, and the intervening days had had their own excitements too.

Rest of our day was siting, talking, planning, eating and drinking, and not doing much. Plus the discovery of a Mexican bakery to die for.


----------



## cpotisch

Wow, the QM really is a pretty ship. Just a smidge less glorious than the QE2, IMHO.


----------



## SarahZ

I loooooove Art Deco. 

I’ve seen the exterior of Cold Mary but never had a chance to book a stay.


----------



## caravanman

The three red funnels on the QM look right to me, as well as the equipment on the bridge. I guess that was the type of ship one always saw pictured, back in the day.

Likewise, I loved seeing the rivets, they certainly make it look like a strong construction. That is part of my fascination with old metal bridges, etc.

Ed.


----------



## v v

Maybe the two of you should book a stay on Cold Mary, late Spring it should be glorious and there is so much more to the ship than our photos show. It certainly has bags of character.


----------



## AmtrakBlue

SarahZ said:


> I loooooove Art Deco.
> 
> I’ve seen the exterior of Cold Mary but never had a chance to book a stay.


Looks like you can book a tour.

https://www.seetickets.us/event/Queen-Mary-Attractions-Tickets/377742

Even a paranormal tour is available 

https://www.queenmary.com


----------



## PVD

Many years ago, on a trip with my parents to visit my sister (she lived in Santa Monica at that time) we took a very interesting tour. Don't know how they are today..It was quite a while ago, the Spruce Goose was right nearby...


----------



## SarahZ

v v said:


> Maybe the two of you should book a stay on Cold Mary, late Spring it should be glorious and there is so much more to the ship than our photos show. It certainly has bags of character.


I definitely will the next time I’m out there. I mistakenly assumed it would be expensive, but it’s pretty comparable to the average hotels.


----------



## trainman74

PVD said:


> It was quite a while ago, the Spruce Goose was right nearby...


Fun fact: my office is in a building right next to the hangar where the Spruce Goose was built.

The development is on land that used to be occupied by Hughes Aircraft's various factory facilities, complete with a private airport. All of that is gone now except for the Spruce Goose hangar... which is in the process of being turned into offices and studios for Google.


----------



## v v

trainman74 said:


> Fun fact: my office is in a building right next to the hangar where the Spruce Goose was built.
> 
> The development is on land that used to be occupied by Hughes Aircraft's various factory facilities, complete with a private airport. All of that is gone now except for the Spruce Goose hangar... which is in the process of being turned into offices and studios for Google.


Were you at work on the 27 & 28 December? and have you ever eaten at The Reef?

Sounds like we could have been less than a 1/4 mile apart, could have thanked you personally for help you have given over the years.


----------



## v v

*Friday 29 December Day 16 ~ Canoga Park CA, a day to do nothing except to work our way through the cake menu at Panaderia La Paz*

_France ~ Sunday 23 February 2019
_

The day after discovering the delightful Mexican bakery La Paz, just off the cross roads of De Soto and Roscoe we had to make a second visit. The visits became addictive with at least one a day whenever we were at Milton's.

We discovered they had at least 10 - 12 types of cake we had never seen that alone eaten, and we do have try out cakes when we can. If we bought one or two types per visit, we calculated we may just get through the whole range before we leave for the UK. It was a lot of fun as the store was always busy, never less than 5 or 6 customers at any time we visited. To cope with this there were quite a few staff too, from the bakers to the servers, plus the boss always prowling with a word or two out of the side of his mouth to this or that person.

When we looked a little undecided or asked what was in a cake we had offers of opinions from both customers and staff, often there were big discussions among the regulars and staff. Sometimes we walked out not even knowing what we had bought but it was always lots of good humour and laughing.

If La Paz are a typical traditional Mexican bakery then they are treasures wherever they are.

All this eating of food that tastes great but isn't good for you brought on a story about Twinkies. How a lady in a Homestead FL supermarket had approached us with a manic look in her eyes, _"do you know where they keep the Twinkies?"_ she looked a bit desperate. After explaining we had never heard of Twinkies and asking should we have done, she described in great detail, acting out in the aisle what would happen if you lived on them entirely. We assumed this is normal behaviour for Homestead, but when in Rome...

Back at Milton's there was a discussion as to if 'Twinkies' were as tasty as Milton's all time favourite junk food 'Ding Dongs', we thought he was making the name up. We didn't have a clue having not eaten either, so, the enormous 7 seater SUV (there would be a lot of us going to the Rose Parade) comes out of the garage and we pop down to Wal-Mart. Quelle horreur, there are no Ding Dongs to be seen. With Milton in panic mode we drive to a bigger Wal-Mart to buy what looked like a sack of Ding Dongs, it had cost around 3 gallons of gas so far.

Back at the condo we make a cup of tea, sit down and have a tasting session. Got to agree with M, Ding Dongs just have the edge over Twinkies... but still not quite up there with the Mexican cakes.

This is the problem when you have time on your hands, certain things become very important.


----------



## trainman74

v v said:


> Were you at work on the 27 & 28 December? and have you ever eaten at The Reef?
> 
> Sounds like we could have been less than a 1/4 mile apart, could have thanked you personally for help you have given over the years.


The hangar where the Spruce Goose was built is in an area of the city of Los Angeles that's now known as Playa Vista -- there are a number of tech companies in the area, such that it is sometimes referred to as "Silicon Beach" (along with the Venice neighborhood and the city of Santa Monica).

That's not to be confused with the place in Long Beach where the Spruce Goose was on display for many years.

At any rate, I was off work all that week -- the company I work for had the whole week as a holiday.


----------



## caravanman

trainman74 said:


> The hangar where the Spruce Goose was built is in an area of the city of Los Angeles that's now known as Playa Vista -- there are a number of tech companies in the area, such that it is sometimes referred to as "Silicon Beach" (along with the Venice neighborhood and the city of Santa Monica).
> 
> That's not to be confused with the place in Long Beach where the Spruce Goose was on display for many years.
> 
> At any rate, I was off work all that week -- the company I work for had the whole week as a holiday.


I guess most beaches are Silica Beaches.


----------



## trainman74

caravanman said:


> I guess most beaches are Silica Beaches.


And some beaches in California are _silicone_ beaches -- depends on how many plastic surgery recipients are out and about.


----------



## caravanman

I guess after all, yours is probably the breast beach description...


----------



## v v

See that the tone of the thread has improved while we were away ha ha ha. Also see a new format for the forum which has altered the original posts a little, so perhaps some new features to learn.
Had to spend time elsewhere since the last posting due to a surprising amount of new work which included travel and the wonder that is Brexit. So to continue...


*Saturday 30 December Day 17 ~ Pasadena, and how to build a float for the Rose Parade*

_France ~ Sunday 17 March 2019_

Lazy morning as we had a mission for the afternoon and evening, to volunteer to help build a float with the Downey Rose Parade Association, La Canada Flintridge. The build site is 'Under the Bridge', a vast space under the I 210.
We had heard of volunteering for float building a few months before, thought it was a good thing to do and to get a better insight into what the Rose Parade means to Pasadena, Los Angeles and the entire USA.
We found an online list of various organisations that build floats, they were each different ranging from completely volunteer based (the Downey and I think one other association), and fully paid for from corporate funds. They each had different criteria which led us to choose 2, the Downey Association was the nearest. It had just one vacant shift left which suited us perfectly, 5 - 10pm on Sunday 30 December. Milton had arranged grandstand seats for 6 of us for the Rose Parade itself on the 1st January, and that was a very early start to arrive in time before the local roads were closed. Volunteering during the evening of the 30th gave us a day to prepare for a 3am start on the 1st.

Downey were an excellent choice, very friendly, helpful and prompt with all the details. We were all signed up and knowing where we had to be on the same day as we applied.

Arrived by 4pm as asked as there was an induction and then a short wait until we were allotted our various tasks. The site is far bigger then you would guess if driving over the bridge on the freeway, but the weather was cold, no very cold indeed. Being under a bridge creates an additional draught, a cold wind was even colder, but we had work to do so it would be ok.

We soon realised there were more volunteers than jobs, suppose they have to do this in the event that some do not turn up. But we were allotted a job to start us off, finish the fine detail of fish #1. By tradition and probably requirement all decorating material has to be organic, and unless I had seen it with my own eyes I wouldn't have believed it to be possible, but here's a photo to prove it.

Our first task, complete the fine detail on this amazing fish




Some of the organic material - sliced lemon, sliced grapefruit, sliced beetroot, seeds, flakes of wheat, mushrooms and other things including a lot of two different types of glue.


To be continued...


----------



## v v

*Saturday 30 December Day 17 ~ Pasadena, and how to build a float for the Rose Parade
*
_France ~ Monday 18 March 2019
_

Here's the fish in detail, who ever thought of and designed such a thing, it's a thing of wonder



A young family from Chicago with 2 young girls explained what we should do, they spent about 15 minutes showing us all the tricks. They were lovely, down for the holidays to visit with her mum and dad. The 2 girls gave us the lowdown of the bits we didn't want to do. Rosie is like a magnet to young children due to her 30+ years as a primary teacher I suppose, they seem to want to tell her their life stories and can't get it out fast enough

The mix of nationalities and ethnicities is a big surprise too, and it worked very well too as everyone worked seamlessly next to who ever happened to be there.



After a very cold stint we were to hand over to another couple, we were pleased to do that as standing for maybe an hour and a half almost without moving in particularly cold temperatures was seizing Rosie and Milton up.

Next couple of fish builders, very serious about their responsibility they were too. Spent about 30 minutes with them to relay all our fish building expertise.


----------



## v v

*Saturday 30 December Day 17 ~ Pasadena, and how to build a float for the Rose Parade - Continued Part III
*
_France ~ Monday 18 March 2019
_
With a joint decision we excused ourselves for 30 minutes to walk across the street for a cup of tea at MacDonald's. Can't remember the tea but the pleasure of being somewhere warm was a delight.

Back at the bridge fridge we waited with an even larger group of volunteers, 7:30pm on a bitterly cold Sunday evening there were no shortage of helpers still arriving.

Rosie then I took a few photos while we waited, Milton went and got a hot drink from the open-air canteen.

Tools and materials of the trade




Volunteers, many waiting for the next assignment



The 'Tree Frog Night' Rose Parade float taking shape



And the Frog in question



Thousands of roses and other flowers waiting to decorate the float



Roses for the float



We with 4 others returned to the holding pen where others we also waiting. To be fair as the float became increasingly completed the possible work space decreased. But Milton (he wont mind me mentioning it) is in his 80's and was on the point of turning blue, along with Rosie. So we decided to give it 20 minutes and if no further work was available would leave. In °C the wind chill was now below freezing, too much unless you are young.

Said our goodbyes all round and off we go, we talked all the way back to Canoga Park about this wonderful thing, the float.

Having had time to stand and watch how it was assembled, walked up and looked at many parts in detail, realised how big this float was, could see that possibly millions of different organic items including hundreds and hundreds of pounds of lentils and other tiny items were fixed by hand it was impossible not to be amazed that the floats get built at all.

This association were never less than friendly and helpful. Fully appreciative that all these volunteers (like themselves) had freely given their time and effort, and that they do this year after year out of funds that they raise.
Their purpose is to enhance civic pride and a sense of community, well worth supporting.


----------



## v v

*Sunday 31 December Day 18 ~ A recce trip to Pasadena then more company
*
_France ~ Tuesday 19 March 2019

_
Milton needed to check out the lie of the land re where our grandstand was, how steep the steps were (for Norma) and exactly where was our reserved parking? He thought it was necessary as he had lost trust in our GPS (Gertie). Visited the main route, Colorado Blvd, Pasadena then saw our seating stand right under the TV cameras at the very start of the parade (how did he get those tickets?).
The section of Colorado Blvd we travelled had people strung along it already sitting and camping 24 hours before the parade starts, that's dedication for you, in particular as it was getting even colder





Returned to Canoga Park, spent an hour moving boxes for Norma as she is emptying her old home, then back to Milton's. For Rosie and I we just had to make another visit to the Mexican bakers across the X roads, bought enough cakes to feed 6 people during the parade morning next day. We love this bakers as we discover even more new types of cake with every visit.

Late afternoon Marcie arrives, one of Milton's nieces who lives 'nearby' (2 hours away, after all it is LA). We had already met Marcie on a previous visit, full of life, good humour and a very sharp brain. Great company especially for Rosie. She stays overnight to visit the parade with her uncle, it's her first live Rose Parade visit.

Very nice evening after which Rosie and I think how lucky we are. By all accounts a great day out tomorrow, just a few days later another Amtrak rail journey on the Coast Starlight. A drive back down much of the coastal Highway 1 to follow before preparing to leave LA again on another adventure, with the great Bob Dylan popping up halfway round.

Milton suddenly announces we must leave at 2:45am, what! But he's captain of this particular parade ship so 2:45 it is.


*Note:* Not abandoning this travelogue again, but have to return to the UK for 4 or 5 days. After sorting a few things out we hope to take part in the anti-Brexit Peoples March in London this coming Saturday. Intend to continue here in around a week's time.

_
_


----------



## Asher

caravanman said:


> One of the problems that I find with "American tea" is that folk try to make it with hot water, rather than fully boiling temperatur
> 
> That's what is called "Tap Water Tea" here in The States. Fast but not too popular.
> 
> 
> 
> One can get hot water from the cafe car at most times, sadly it is not boiling...
> 
> Interestingly, I stayed at the Santa Monica hostel a few years ago, and got into conversation with an outreach guy helping the homeless. I guess if one is homeless and down on one's luck at least the weather in that area is better than most places.
> 
> Ed.


----------



## oregon pioneer

I have given up on trying to have any of my *good* tea on Amtrak. When I want my mid-morning cuppa, I just go to the cafe and drink Lipton out of a styrofoam cup. I've got the stainless travel mug and organic varietal teabags with me, in case I should happen to get a chance to use them, but it's an unexpected bonus if I do.


----------



## v v

oregon pioneer said:


> I have given up on trying to have any of my *good* tea on Amtrak. When I want my mid-morning cuppa, I just go to the cafe and drink Lipton out of a styrofoam cup. I've got the stainless travel mug and organic varietal teabags with me, in case I should happen to get a chance to use them, but it's an unexpected bonus if I do.



Hello Jennifer, couldn't you take a hook-on 110v water heater with you? guaranteed way to boil water even on a train.


----------



## v v

*Monday 1 January 2019 ... Day 19 ~ Pasadena Rose Parade - Part I*

_France ~ Thursday 4 April 2019

_
2:00am, Milton banged on the door of our room, bloody hell that's about 1 hour and 45 minutes sleep. Leave on time, pick up Norma and her daughter Gail, now there are six of us. Travelling with 4 sharp, intelligent, mischievous and awake women in a car for 1 1/2 hours at 3am is probably fun... for some.

Arrive at a different parking to our allotted space as that's where they directed us, but about the same distance to walk so no problem. The high wind forecast isn't happening, but it's pretty cold nonetheless. Many people are dressed as if for the mountains in winter, this is supposed to be southern California for goodness sake.
We were early (surprise) so we sat in the car and had a nap, but Rosie, Marcie and Milton let their excitement get the better of them, took a walk to see what was happening. Lots of people asleep on the sidewalks, some on mattresses, some on the pavement. To be honest Rosie thought it looked like a giant homeless peoples convention.
Saw one place open for food and drink, they were certainly going to be busy. Lots of toilets available, that's very good, and check points to check our bags before we could enter the grandstand area. This is a normal practice now at many places around the world.

We reached our seats at 7am, the parade started at 8am so not long to wait now.


Hero's of the parade





A lot of people arriving





Our seats are under one of the TV camera positions





Directly under the camera boom





Examples of SoCal dress code, waiting for the parade to start





Next up was totally unexpected. A large black very quiet very low flying Stealth Bomber flew down the parade route very slowly, all conversation in the crowd stopped. We have only seen photos of such things before, it was a real monster from another planet, very very spooky indeed. Rosie and I sat there transfixed, I even had my camera on and at the ready but forgot to point it, amazing.
It's a bit of a shame for the parade as for all of us it was the main topic of what we remembered from the day, it is an experience unlike any other.


Start of the parade, sponsored by Honda





An enormous marching band














To be continued...


----------



## caravanman

I am a bit confused, what was the purpose or point of this?


----------



## v v

What's up Ed?


----------



## trainman74

caravanman said:


> I am a bit confused, what was the purpose or point of this?



You mean the purpose or point of the Rose Parade itself?

"In New York, people are buried in the snow. Here our flowers are blooming and our oranges are about to bear. Let's hold a festival to tell the world about our paradise." -- quote from one of the initial organizers (in 1890)


----------



## caravanman

Somehow I couldn't quite see from Jamie's write up just what the Rose Parade was for, what it was celebrating, whether any charity or organisation benefited from it.
Nice to see folk working together and enjoying themselves!

Ed.


----------



## Asher

It's a New Year's Day parade on every year when it doesn't fall on Sunday. It coincides with the traditional Rose Bowl football game which starts later in the day.


----------



## v v

caravanman said:


> Somehow I couldn't quite see from Jamie's write up just what the Rose Parade was for, what it was celebrating, whether any charity or organisation benefited from it.
> Nice to see folk working together and enjoying themselves!
> 
> Ed.



Didn't know anything about this parade either until it was mentioned to us about a year ago, and usually we wouldn't bother as we thought it wasn't our thing. When we learned we could participate with locals to help build a float it became interesting, to be part of what locals do for their community.

The story is above but here are a few facts for you and anybody contemplating visiting next year.

700,000 people attended the parade

TV audience of 72,000,000 (million), national and international viewers

The floats are built under various situations. Perhaps the majority are built by professional teams, there are actually 'float building' companies. The majority of these are for commercial sponsorship, money does flow from these through to various aspects of the community.

A smaller number are built by volunteers only for local projects or charities. Lookout for Part II to see where our volunteer only float came in the competition.

Some appear to be a combination of both.

The correct title for the parade is the Pasadena Tournament of Roses, it's a competition held within strict guidelines (only organic material can be used for decoration for example).

So Ed, money is raised for many types of local community purposes, it's far far bigger than maybe you or definitely we ever imagined. It's a great deal of fun with so many people in good humour, and some of the floats seen close-up are staggering considering what they are built from.

https://tournamentofroses.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/2018-2019_Tournament-of-Roses-Sales-Kit.pdf


----------



## v v

*Monday 1 January 2019 ... Day 19 ~ Pasadena Rose Parade - Part II
*
_France ~ Sunday 7 April 2019_


The second half of the Rose parade, a few of the floats and characters




Next up is the Tree Frog Night float, the one we helped a little to decorate 2 days before. Unfortunately the fish we gave a gloss to was on the far side of the float, didn't get to see it... The good news was our wonderful float won 1st prize for a volunteer built float.




For us this was the most impressive float, the scale was overwhelming







Never seen Mules before, impressive looking animals



















To be continued...


----------



## v v

*Monday 1 January 2019 ... Day 19 ~ Pasadena Rose Parade - Part III
*
_France ~ Sunday 7 April 2019_


Third and final part of the Rose parade, at last a train connection too. This was the last but one float, to celebrate the 150th anniversary this year of the Golden Spike ceremony to be held at Ogden, UT at the end of this month. More importantly it was built to represent all the Chinese workers who had such a large part in constructing the coast to coast railways.
The float was based on a photo of the occasion, it was a brilliant piece of float building but had the bad luck to catch fire just as it started off, it wasn't allowed to proceed on the parade route. Feel very sorry for all the people connected with this float, most take up to a year to plan and construct.
Felt even more sorry for the float stuck behind the Golden Spike float. They were the last to start but couldn't move until the fire was put out, then the damaged float had to be driven to start to allow the last float to pass. Second photo is taken at road level, gives a different perspective to the size of these floats.








We would highly recommend the Rose Parade, and you are unlikely to get weather we had as this was the coldest Rose Parade for 17 years.
Couldn't leave for an hour as couldn't back out of our parking slot, when we could Milton whisked us back to the Canoga Park area then down to Mimi's for lunch. For the rest of that day we slopped around working hard at doing nothing, we were all very tired.



*Tuesday 2 January Day 20 ~ Chez Milton's
*
_France ~ Sunday 7 April 2019_


We have a whole day to prepare for our next rail journey, the Coast Starlight from Van Nuys up to Salinas, then across to Monterey by Thruway bus. Rosie and I convinced ourselves that we needed fruit and supplies for tomorrow's journey, best excuse yet to call into the Mexican bakery around the corner for more cakes.

That evening Milton's nephew Peter arrived for a visit, he is the epitome of an enterprising American business man. Very personable, friendly and sharp, we had an entertaining 5 hours talking about all things, but the best was his insights into modern and future business practices, the trends in energy use and supply, and that 4 weeks later he would be in London and could we find time to spend some time with him.
His trip to London was to present ideas to the British Parliament, then give a couple of talks to relevant people either in power or business.
We missed him by one day, we were in central London the day after he left, our business took us within a 1/2 mile of Parliament too. What a shame as he was both enjoyable and fascinating company, still another time, another place maybe.

Big day tomorrow, we are all looking forward to our short break away from LA.

*NOTE: re the Ogden, UT rail celebrations and the Big Boy engine.*
A dear friend of ours, Hans from Holland is also an admirer of the US, and has decided to desert his wife and turn up in Ogden for the train events. His special interest is the Big Boy engines, he's already seen one of them in the workshops near to Denver.
He has a motor bike in the US, he stores it with friends and will use it to ride to Laramie, WY and follow the train(s) down to Ogden. He is spending most of the time on his own, so if you are also going to this event or see a biker on a red Honda ST it could well be Hans, could you give him a wave please as I know he'll feel a bit lonely.

He's a pretty good photographer too, if there is any interest in photos of these trains actually running just let me know and I'll ask if I can post some here for the forum.



*

*


----------



## caravanman

Thanks for all the excellent photos and the explanation of the whole parade event, sorry if I asked a dumb question!
You always seem to pack so much into your trips and your reports, it feels like I am looking over your shoulder as I read.
Certainly any photos from your friend of the steam engines would be great!

Ed.


----------



## v v

Thanks Ed, if the thread works it's by accident, but appreciate you thinking that.

The flip side is when you write about your India journeys I feel as though I can hear, see and smell where you are too, and I've never been there so thanks for the experience.

Totally different subject. Are you watching the BBC2 'Race Across the World' program series? Pleased to see that much of it is by rail and bus and it's all places on our to visit sometime soon list. The program is a bit naff in places, and has a few unanswered questions too, but the contestants in this game show are occasionally put into real life travel situations (as you will well recognise) and as the series has progressed they have learned they must rely increasingly on train travel to complete their journeys.

I think that it's possible to pick this up online if people outside the UK are interested, there are 6 episodes with the last one this evening, but all are on the BBC iPlayer if you have a VPN? to enable access to a region only programs.

Where you headed next Ed?

We have had 2 long journeys in our minds for the last 6 months, Argentina and Chile, and central Asia. This tv program has swung it for us as it is possibly the most varied area of the two, but after a tiny slice of visiting Mexico (will come later in this thread) and meeting people from other central and south American countries it draws us heavily too.
Your friend's overland journey with his son is always on my desk top, I re-read it from time to time.

https://www.bbc.co.uk/iPlayer


----------



## caravanman

It sounds as if Rosie's eye problem is fully resolved, if you are looking at long distance travels again?

I had a look at the "Race across the world", but didn't like the competitive tone of the programme, everything seems to be about winning nowadays, bake off, strictly come dancing, choirs, not to mention x factor etc.
Gosh I am turning into a moaning old man!
I will give the programme another try on iplayer, I accept that there is a clue in the word "race"... 

No long distance travels planned at all, so far this year I have had a couple of weeks in southern Spain, a week in Torquay, and a fortnight in the Algarve, where my new avatar pic was taken. Looking at a few weeks in Turkey in May, but who knows, might get a bit drunk and book something further afield!

Ed.


----------



## v v

Yes all clear for Rosie thank you, life is back to normal trying to dodge Brexit, work and settling on the next journey.

That Race Across the World episode last night was the worst in both our opinion, but in part agree with you as when we saw the odd gaping hole in the story we agreed to tell the other _"it's only a game show". _There is much more about train and bus travel in the first 5 programs, just remember_ 'it's only......._ '

Flights from London to Buenos Aires are pretty good value when I last looked, and Argentina looks so interesting. Just an idea.

We have deliveries coming up in May including Scotland and the south west UK, maybe Zurich too but the clients said it could also be London. After that we are going to relax for 4 or 5 days down in the Landes department. Bit of cycling (it's totally flat) and a few great surf beaches there too (for us to just sit and watch have to add). Than back to work and Brexit while waiting our chance to travel again.


----------



## v v

*Thursday 3 January Day 21 ~ Coast Starlight northbound ~ Part 1*

_France ~ Saturday 13 April 2019

*Amtrak 14 Coast Starlight - Departing Van Nuys, CA at 10:40am 3 January 2019 - Arriving Salinas Station 6:28pm same day ~ Business Class*_
*
Transfer to 3614 Amtrak Thruway Bus - Departing 6:35pm same day - Arriving Monterey Transit Plaza 7:25pm same day 

*
All up early, we all three are looking forward to one of the great Amtrak rides, travelling right along the Pacific coast for much of the way from Van Nuys to Salinas. At Salinas Amtrak station there is a connecting Amtrak Thruway bus through to Monterey Transit Center, more or less door to door (which amazingly it turned out to be).

Norma turns up with a big smile bright and bushy tailed, no idea where she finds the energy at her age. She runs us to the station, we are dropped right by the platform and can see the new building works in different places. Train comes in on time, but no Business Class coach. Follow the Coach passengers and wait our turn, told we are at the wrong end of the train but attendant a bit sharp and grumpy. Head off for the other end and see a single car attendant, this must be it as no other doors open, but the car says Coach. Oh dear, we have missed something, but we can ask. _"Good morning, where is the Business Class coach please?", _answer in a not too happy voice "_we'll here of course!" "but, it says Coach on this car" _now feeling more and more stupid. _"It's this car!"_

Although we have never travelled business before we have seen the Business Class cars marked as Business Class but we are missing something obviously, what a grumpy crew though. _"Upstairs and to the left"... "Ok, may we sit on the left side of the car?"_ (which we don't think is business anyway, it shows 'Coach') as that is the side for the ocean further along. _"You're putting demands on me!"._ At this point we board with numbers for our seats, I am now feeling less polite than usual but lets wait and see.
Rosie and I get left sided seats, Milton is 2 rows back on the other side. Can Milton sit behind or in front of us as all the seats around us are empty? _"No!"_, oh dear, something must have upset this crew before they started this journey, this isn't usual for Amtrak.
After Santa Barbara we change seats to sit together as no one takes any of the seats around us, we do this without asking the attendant. If she had objected I was ready for a discussion about her seating arrangements, but she melted away for the rest of our trip.

The car was a Business Class car, apparently converted? from Coach but without new signage. We learn this a few weeks later from a crew on a Pacific Surfliner, they were a total delight, fun and very pleasant too.

Apart from the initial staff attitude the rest of the journey was wonderful, we are not easily offended so laugh it off. How can you not have a good time in a spacious, comfortable and luxury car with amazing scenery going by. Leave the rest of the journey to the photos, are these too many?


And here she comes into Van Nuys, on time...



The Ventura Highway I believe



People just love a train...



How close to the ocean do you want to get












Even closer





To be continued...


----------



## Mystic River Dragon

Never too many photos, Jamie--especially of the lovely ocean! (Even if the Pacific is on the "wrong" side to those of us who live on the east coast!)

A crew member said "You're putting demands on me"? That is a first, I believe. Good grief. I can think of many snarky remarks as replies, but of course you and Rosie would be much too polite to use them (plus of course no point in tempting them to throw you off the train--"Look, I just got rid of more passengers--let's see if we can empty out the whole car so I don't have to do any work at all!")


----------



## Asher

Nice ocean photos, Salinas valley is a great view from the train. Too bad you didn't have time to check out the John Steinbeck museum before going on to Monterrey an area of many sights and tours. Hope you was able to enjoy some of them


----------



## v v

Mystic River Dragon said:


> Never too many photos, Jamie--especially of the lovely ocean! (Even if the Pacific is on the "wrong" side to those of us who live on the east coast!)
> 
> A crew member said "You're putting demands on me"? That is a first, I believe. Good grief. I can think of many snarky remarks as replies, but of course you and Rosie would be much too polite to use them (plus of course no point in tempting them to throw you off the train--"Look, I just got rid of more passengers--let's see if we can empty out the whole car so I don't have to do any work at all!")



Had never heard of the phrase before but thought we understood it nevertheless, it's why we both remember it with such clarity. We are visitors and as visitors it's not our place to say certain things. I've handled far worse than this in my time, but she was the third person in this crew that wasn't on top form so guessed there was a problem through-out the train. At the end of the day we just ignored the attendant on the few times we were in proximity, and it didn't spoil our journey at all. Have to add this behaviour was the first time in more than 25 Amtrak journeys, so just a blip.
I did ask Milton who has travelled from upper New York to LA by train for more than 60 years if this was ok what was happening, but he's an extremely mild mannered man and just raised his eyebrows a couple of times, obviously it wasn't the end of the world or he would have said so... I think?




anumberone said:


> Nice ocean photos, Salinas valley is a great view from the train. Too bad you didn't have time to check out the John Steinbeck museum before going on to Monterrey an area of many sights and tours. Hope you was able to enjoy some of them



Thanks ano, more down to the cameras than us. We were in Salinas a year ago, and visited the Steinbeck Center. As he is possibly my all time hero the center visit is one of the highlights of my life. If the ocean train ride wasn't such a draw we would ride the San Joachin more often. Steinbeck painted the picture of the central valleys and we have travelled it once, it's just such a superb journey.

Rosie and I agree that if we were ever to live in America then central California would be in the top 3 places we would choose, in particular the town of San Luis Obispo as it's not too big or too small.

Thanks for the comments, I'd agree with all that you wrote if someone is looking to visit California.


----------



## v v

*Thursday 3 January Day 21 ~ Coast Starlight northbound ~ Part II
*
_France ~ Sunday 14 April 2019

*Amtrak 14 Coast Starlight - Departing Van Nuys, CA at 10:40am 3 January 2019 - Arriving Salinas Station 6:28pm same day ~ Business Class*_
*
Transfer to 3614 Amtrak Thruway Bus - Departing 6:35pm same day - Arriving Monterey Transit Plaza 7:25pm same day 

*
Passing the huge Vandenberg Air Force base on our right side, plenty of strange shaped buildings and rocket launch facilities to gain our attention over mile after mile. As Milton is a retired rocket scientist he has some great snippets of information to pass on, what a great train ride this is for us.




Possibly my favourite ocean shot of this trip



Sculpture



Busy small station, San Luis Obispo (SLO)






A smiling face at the window



Did I mention we like SLO, perfect setting for a station



Roomy and comfortable Business Class




Not too long after this last photo we arrive in Salinas, but not before we are stopped for an hour just outside the town. A bicycle had been seen on or by the track, the engineer stopped the train as there was the possibility there had been an accident. The police held the train while they checked under the train and in the brush and bushes along side the tracks. Conclusion, it was a hoax.

Arrived late in Salinas, but our Thruway bus was still sitting there waiting for us 8 in total passengers headed to Monterey. The driver was great as he appeared to know all the passengers apart from us strangers. As conversation flew around the bus there was a lot of laughing and obvious camaraderie. In the words of a certain B Dylan, _'a jolly saucy crew'._
The driver went out of his way to make every one including us feel included, just what we needed. When each of the other 5 passenger got off at their various stops they all made a point of saying goodbye to us too . We were the last 3 to get off as our stop was the end of the line, we were scheduled for the center of town at the transit center. The driver asked where we were headed and when told our hotel said it's only 1/2 a mile from the transit center and it was on his way home, so he would be happy to drop us off outside our hotel. How nice is that, what service.

So after another special Amtrak train journey we ended on a high, can't ask for more.


----------



## v v

*Friday 4 January Day 22 ~ Monterey, CA ~ Part I
*
_France ~ Monday 29 April 2019

_
Back to the journey...

Warm bright day and we're soon off to the Monterey Aquarium by bus. $1.25 each, and a smiling, happy and helpful driver which seems to be the norm around here. Short queue and we are in and are being asked by volunteers if we need help, but we can see from inside where we are headed, to the decking over the ocean. Controlled natural rockpools are a feature of this large aquarium, plus the views across the bay vary between interesting and beautiful.

Someone mentioned there can't be enough photos, so here they are... starting with our favourites, jellyfish













Not sure what this fish is, but impressive would be a description






A happy face









Lovely setting for an aquarium




To be continued...


----------



## AmtrakBlue

My guess is a Beluga Whale... and I was wrong. It's a sperm whale.

https://www.montereybayaquarium.org/animals-and-exhibits/animal-guide/marine-mammals/sperm-whale


----------



## v v

*Friday 4 January Day 22 ~ Monterey, CA ~ Part II
*
_France ~ Monday 29 April 2019_


Few more photos at the aquarium...

Not sure what's going on here



These two were inseparable



... but you wonder why









They looked almost metallic



My hero, Steinbeck being pooped on




Another recommendation if you have never visited, Monterey Aquarium is far more varied than shown here, it also has research and educational purposes too. It helps we very much like Monterey out of season, a very friendly place that is so laid back with a lot to do too.

After walking back to town along the sea shore we get a bus across to the airport (75 cents each), with yet another friendly driver. Must be something in the water here. It was the last bus of the day to the airport and we were early for our car collection, our car wasn't even in yet. To our surprise they offered another very suitable one so we _"didn't have to wait". _Thanks Enterprise, very good service.

That evening an enjoyable Vietnamese meal just along from our hotel and an early night so we can get away early tomorrow for our drive down the 'Big Sur', the coast road Highway 1.


----------



## v v

AmtrakBlue said:


> My guess is a Beluga Whale... and I was wrong. It's a sperm whale.
> 
> https://www.montereybayaquarium.org/animals-and-exhibits/animal-guide/marine-mammals/sperm-whale



I think it was a fish, not a whale as they had no large sea creatures anywhere we saw. It was about 3-4 feet long maybe and close up you knew you were looking at something unusual. Thanks for the thought though Ma'am.


----------



## SarahZ

Your mystery fish is a dolphinfish, more commonly known as "mahi-mahi".


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## v v

Thank you too Ma'am, learn something every day


----------



## Asher

SarahZ said:


> Your mystery fish is a dolphinfish, more commonly known as "mahi-mahi".


Correct amundo, and if you ever get to Baja where they are more in abundance they are called Dorado. They are a very colorful fish, do a lot of jumping out of the water when caught on a rod and reel and very mild, good tasting meal.


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## Ronbo

So, you were in Monterey in early January. Good time to go as far as tourists/crowds etc.? Also, curious where you stayed while you were there, hotel, B&B? I have been trying to plan a trip there, traveling south from Seattle, basically to spend a couple of days at the Aquarium and hanging out at Cannery Row. Any specific recommendations would be appreciated. Great pictures by the way, and looks like you had a great time!


----------



## v v

Ronbo said:


> So, you were in Monterey in early January. Good time to go as far as tourists/crowds etc.? Also, curious where you stayed while you were there, hotel, B&B? I have been trying to plan a trip there, traveling south from Seattle, basically to spend a couple of days at the Aquarium and hanging out at Cannery Row. Any specific recommendations would be appreciated. Great pictures by the way, and looks like you had a great time!



There were no crowds in January although the area around Cannery Row and the aquarium had more people there than in the town. The previous year we were there for whale watching in I think early/mid March, that was a little warmer in the evenings and a little busier, but still not busy.
Could imagine that during public holidays and vacation time it could get really busy, but don't really know that.

We stayed at a Days Inn, 1288 Munras Avenue, Monterey. $65 per night including breakfast for 2 people. It's basic, clean, everything worked including heating for the evening and the breakfast was better than basic. Close to the center, bus stop (important for us) outside the door. Non chain eateries (Vietnamese) 200 yards away in the same street and a small mall across the road with 3 or 4 other eateries one of which we tried and was good too. Plenty of parking at the hotel for a car.

In town there are a lot of cafes and restaurants, one in particular was heavily recommended but doesn't open until evening and we missed our chance.

Just a thought. Parking close to the aquarium is very expensive, even if you arrive in Monterey by car it may be better to take a bus from your hotel.

The fact that some of Steinbeck's life was lived in Monterey drew us initially (there's a fair bit about him and his friend 'Doc' near Cannery Row), and the fact that people obviously visit for all sorts of reasons, but doesn't feel like a holiday town. It feels like it's where laid back people live rather than visit, and we enjoyed the atmosphere of an easy going place to be.
The highlights for us are the wildlife that is in and around the harbour and Fisherman's Wharf, the whale watching, the walks along the coast out to the point, and the aquarium. It has some great beaches but we aren't very attracted to endless beaches unless there's something on them (as in this travelogue in the next report, still to be written) or surfers or such. There are large kelp beds between Fisherman's Wharf and the aquarium, quite a lot of scuba diving there due to the wildlife it attracts.

To sum it up it feels like pleasant small town California by the sea.


----------



## spinnaker

My favorite at the Monterrey Aquarium was the sunfish. A big fish that was really slow. They were feeding the fish and all of the other fish were darting about grabbing all of the food. That poor thing would get lined up with a piece of food, moving very slowly. Either another fish would grab it or he would be too slow and totally miss. But he kept trying. Took several passes but finally he was able to grab some food. The whole place roared with a cheer and applause from the audience.


----------



## v v

spinnaker said:


> My favorite at the Monterrey Aquarium was the sunfish. A big fish that was really slow. They were feeding the fish and all of the other fish were darting about grabbing all of the food. That poor thing would get lined up with a piece of food, moving very slowly. Either another fish would grab it or he would be too slow and totally miss. But he kept trying. Took several passes but finally he was able to grab some food. The whole place roared with a cheer and applause from the audience.



Excellent!


----------



## Asher

v v said:


> There were no crowds in
> 
> To sum it up it feels like pleasant small town California by the sea.


It's a great place. Never lived there, but spent some time in the area. Specifically, Ft. Ord doing basic training. Quite a few yrs. back.
I'm excited to find out I'll be doing some traveling in your neck of the woods in June. London to Bristol then to Brighton. Also Antwerp Belgium, through France to Vitirio Spain. My spelling may be incorrect. Just now making plans.


----------



## v v

anumberone said:


> It's a great place. Never lived there, but spent some time in the area. Specifically, Ft. Ord doing basic training. Quite a few yrs. back.
> I'm excited to find out I'll be doing some traveling in your neck of the woods in June. London to Bristol then to Brighton. Also Antwerp Belgium, through France to Vitirio Spain. My spelling may be incorrect. Just now making plans.



Major tip for any UK visit. If you enjoy heated discussion then mention Brexit, if you prefer a quiet life pretend it isn't happening. hahaha.

Like any major city there is a lot to see and do in London, best pick a small number of favourites and stick with those as you'll get drawn in to other things along the way too. Don't know your finances but if you are on a budget then find a hotel up to an hour's train ride from say Westminster, it will save you a fair amount and you'll get to see how the commuter rail and tube work.

The other 2 cities are interesting picks, may I ask why them? I would recommend both if you like being with people, just don't hear of people from overseas wanting to visit them.

Also why Antwerp, it's not an obvious pick but a lot going for it. Do you mean Vitoria in northern Spain?

How are you travelling? What do you want from your journey? How long will it be? What can't you miss? Have you ever been to Europe before?

If you have any specific questions just ask, always pleased to help. If you can flesh out what you intend or even imagine on your vacation Rosie and I will try to make recommendations based on what you want.

Sounds exciting


----------



## Asher

Thanks for the interest and information. I'm just tagging along with my son and the band he's in. Going to have about 4 days in England before first show in Brighton. Then on to the rest of the locations I've mentioned. They travel in a comfortable van type vehicle and keep the mileage down between shows, so there is some time to explore. My son and I plan on renting a car to drive across France from Belgium to Spain. For me it's a trip to see a few places and get a feel for hopefully traveling to Europe with my wife next year.


----------



## v v

*Saturday 5 January Day 23 ~ Monterey CA to San Luis Obispo CA driving down the Big Sur, US Highway 1
*
_France ~ Saturday 4 May 2019_


Up, breakfast and soon away heading for Hwy 1 that is just outside town.

It's raining with low cloud but this along with the ocean being rougher than we have seen creates a dramatic picture, we all come to agree the weather is adding to the atmosphere of driving this coast road. First we are headed to the Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park to visit the most southerly stands of Coast Redwoods in the US. The main stand is outside the park next to the Big Sur Lodge, which we appreciate later in the day.


Even in the rain Hwy 1 is beautiful





Before we drive into the park we make a stop at the visitor center about 1/2 mile to the south of the park entrance and directly on Hwy 1. There is a lot of information here about the parks plus the whole coast down to San Luis Obispo (SLO). Milton picks up a leaflet with information about a beach to the south of us, it would be one of the major highlights of our entire trip.

After some good advice from the park rangers we head back up to the entrance, see the lodge, park car and the Redwoods are just there on the edge of the car park. What an amazing sight the first ever glimpse of the tallest trees in the world (more later about that).


The sheer height





and sheer physical size





of these giant living things in the misty, damp and rainy setting will remembered forever





As these are the most southerly stands of Redwoods and at the extreme limit of their natural growing range we learn that these are the smallest of the remaining Coast Redwoods at 250 feet tall. To the north of San Francisco is the ideal growing region where they grow a whopping 100 feet taller at 350 feet. Even knowing that we were more than impressed by these trees that we could stand next to and touch.


We had a unanimous vote for a warm drink in the Lodge where we also found a log fire that made the perfect end to our visit. Just take a look at the pine cones on the mantle behind Rosie, they are huge! Of course they are from the Redwoods.





We head off continuing south on Hwy 1, Milton starts to read from the pamphlet he found.

To be continued...


----------



## SarahZ

I agree that misty weather is perfect for viewing redwoods. I imagine it adds to the wonderful smell, too.

I've been to California a few times but have yet to see the redwoods. They're definitely on the list for next time.


----------



## AmtrakBlue

SarahZ said:


> I agree that misty weather is perfect for viewing redwoods. I imagine it adds to the wonderful smell, too.
> 
> I've been to California a few times but have yet to see the redwoods. They're definitely on the list for next time.


We tried to go to Muirs Woods when I visited the kids a few years ago, but the small parking lot was full and the sides of the narrow, winding road was filling up, making for a long walk just to get in. So we ended up on a small beach nearby. Since then I've read you now have to have reservations to visit, or something like that.


----------



## SarahZ

AmtrakBlue said:


> We tried to go to Muirs Woods when I visited the kids a few years ago, but the small parking lot was full and the sides of the narrow, winding road was filling up, making for a long walk just to get in. So we ended up on a small beach nearby. Since then I've read you now have to have reservations to visit, or something like that.


That's good to know.  Thanks!


----------



## caravanman

I am sure there must be a joke here about visiting the Redwoods and then enjoying a log fire... 

Ed.


----------



## AmtrakBlue

caravanman said:


> I am sure there must be a joke here about visiting the Redwoods and then enjoying a log fire...
> 
> Ed.


The logs in the fireplace are trigs that fell from the redwoods


----------



## v v

*Saturday 5 January Day 23 ~ Part II... Big Sur CA to San Luis Obispo CA driving down the Cabrillo Hwy, US Highway 1
*
_France ~ Sunday 5 May 2019_


... and the day continues, rain getting heavier to the point we can't always see the ocean. It's a combination of rain and a sea mist which strangely looked good with the mist hanging in the trees, feels a bit like a rain forest. It comes and goes, this is real weather.
Milton reads out his pamphlet. There are a couple of viewing points to the south where we may be able to get close to view seals, but not any old seals, Elephant seals. We are interested but not hugely excited as we had seen seals in the bay at Monterey, of course we would stop but it's getting very wet out there.
Milton then reads a few facts. They were hunted almost to extinction, I think only about 100 were left on the California coast, but since conservation measures had been introduced their numbers had expanded rapidly. They return to the beach where they were born every winter, just about this time of year. They migrate south to mate and to have their young, then return north. The males can weigh in at over 2 tons, as much as a pickup truck and can grow to 16 feet long.
At this point Rosie and I are listening, a little more interested now.


During a clearer spell this is what the ocean looked like





We arrive at one of two Elephant seal access points, for those interested the one we stopped at is about 5 miles north of San Simeon at this GPS location 35.663225, -121.257733

At least the rain had eased and it was brighter, still raining but not too bad and we are getting used to it. The parking was good and there was a trail at the back of the beach directly overlooking, yes Elephant seals in all sorts of poses. Having never seen any before they came as a shock, how small the females were and how large the males were, quite a magical panorama below us.

Two males, a female and an new born pup





A pair of juvenile males play fighting, an adult behind not particularly impressed





While the males fight, the females sleep





Easy to see how they got their name





What a pose from a female





This best displays the enormity of these animals






We stayed a long while, a real privilege to just drive off the road, no fuss and see these magnificent animals in their own environment. Thank you to the people and authorities who enable this to happen.

Not too long to finish the day's driving into SLO, we take our time at the hotel then meander across the road to eat, too damp to go out into the town so stay in a watch a movie. Another day tomorrow to include fulfilling an ambition to visit Surf Station and take a look at Santa Barbara for the first time before heading back to Milton's at Canoga Park.


----------



## v v

anumberone said:


> Thanks for the interest and information. I'm just tagging along with my son and the band he's in. Going to have about 4 days in England before first show in Brighton. Then on to the rest of the locations I've mentioned. They travel in a comfortable van type vehicle and keep the mileage down between shows, so there is some time to explore. My son and I plan on renting a car to drive across France from Belgium to Spain. For me it's a trip to see a few places and get a feel for hopefully traveling to Europe with my wife next year.



Hello again

Here's a little information, few ideas and a couple of questions for your upcoming Europe trip. It may be things you hadn't considered so may be of interest.

Take a river trip from Greenwich to Westminster Pier, you'll see much from the river that you will recognise, the river is the heart of London. Can recommend City Cruises on the south side of the river outside the Royal Naval Museum and College.
A superb way to arrive there is to get to the DLR light rail station Mudchute and walk down to the river to the Greenwich Foot Tunnel North. Walk through this impressive Victorian pedestrian tunnel under the Thames, you'll come out next to the Cutty Sark historic Tea Clipper sailing ship, the City Cruises pier is about 50 yards away.
You will be standing on the 0° line for the earth's Longitude by the way and outside one the great British museums the National Maritime Museum

When you arrive at Westminster you are right next to the Houses of Parliament (the very building that a political implosion is currently taking place), best seen from the south side of the river. On the land side of the of the Houses of Parliament you can get a Hop On, Hop Off ticket and board the open top buses, good way to see a lot of London.

Last for London is to take High Tea at Fortnum and Mason https://www.fortnumandmason.com/restaurants/afternoon-tea . I guarantee you wont forget the experience.

Are you travelling to Amsterdam or Antwerp? Both have very good city centers but Amsterdam is world class and very very walkable.

Travelling by car through France to Spain. What sort of time do you have for this or is it just the time to drive through? It would make a difference as to which route to take and some places are easier to navigate than others.

There's tons more stuff on your journey, but don't want to put you to sleep.

One more thing, Brighton. It's a major LBGT center in the UK, has a great atmosphere, friendly and tolerant. We've visited a few times and have always enjoyed our time there.


----------



## Asher

V V 
Thanks for the tips on my trip, I have to go over them later and see how I can incorporate then into our plans. But, for now I have to tell you how much I appreciate your photos. Looking at the redwood scenes I was thinking I can almost smell them, exactly what SZ wrote in the next post.


----------



## v v

anumberone said:


> V V
> Thanks for the tips on my trip, I have to go over them later and see how I can incorporate then into our plans. But, for now I have to tell you how much I appreciate your photos. Looking at the redwood scenes I was thinking I can almost smell them, exactly what SZ wrote in the next post.



You are very welcome and thank you.


----------



## Asher

v v said:


> Hello again
> 
> Here's a little information, few ideas and a couple of questions for your upcoming Europe trip. It may be things you hadn't considered so may be of interest.
> 
> Take a river trip from Greenwich to Westminster Pier, you'll see much from the river that you will recognise, the river is the heart of London. Can recommend City Cruises on the south side of the river outside the Royal Naval Museum and College.
> A superb way to arrive there is to get to the DLR light rail station Mudchute and walk down to the river to the Greenwich Foot Tunnel North. Walk through this impressive Victorian pedestrian tunnel under the Thames, you'll come out next to the Cutty Sark historic Tea Clipper sailing ship, the City Cruises pier is about 50 yards away.
> You will be standing on the 0° line for the earth's Longitude by the way and outside one the great British museums the National Maritime Museum
> 
> When you arrive at Westminster you are right next to the Houses of Parliament (the very building that a political implosion is currently taking place), best seen from the south side of the river. On the land side of the of the Houses of Parliament you can get a Hop On, Hop Off ticket and board the open top buses, good way to see a lot of London.
> 
> Last for London is to take High Tea at Fortnum and Mason https://www.fortnumandmason.com/restaurants/afternoon-tea . I guarantee you wont forget the experience.
> 
> Are you travelling to Amsterdam or Antwerp? Both have very good city centers but Amsterdam is world class and very very walkable.
> 
> Travelling by car through France to Spain. What sort of time do you have for this or is it just the time to drive through? It would make a difference as to which route to take and some places are easier to navigate than others.
> 
> There's tons more stuff on your journey, but don't want to put you to sleep.
> 
> One more thing, Brighton. It's a major LBGT center in the UK, has a great atmosphere, friendly and tolerant. We've visited a few times and have always enjoyed our time there.



Thanks for all the info, I am going to get to spend some time in London and hope to take advantage of your ideas. I really want to see the Maritime Museum. I am going to be in Amsterdam for a couple of days and Antwerp a few hrs. And overnight. I'm hoping to get to the rijks museum in Amsterdam along with taking some kind of tour. Also going to be in Nijmegen, hope to get to a Airborne Military Museum close by. 
Driving through France in two days only. Plan on spending a night in Bordeaux.


----------



## MARC Rider

anumberone said:


> Thanks for all the info, I am going to get to spend some time in London and hope to take advantage of your ideas. I really want to see the Maritime Museum. I am going to be in Amsterdam for a couple of days and Antwerp a few hrs. And overnight. I'm hoping to get to the rijks museum in Amsterdam along with taking some kind of tour. Also going to be in Nijmegen, hope to get to a Airborne Military Museum close by.
> Driving through France in two days only. Plan on spending a night in Bordeaux.



I second the recommendation for the Maritime Museum in Greenwich. I was there in 1985. Great exhibits, except they insisted on labeling certain paddle-propelled watercraft was "Canadian Canoes," even though the exact same craft are also native to, and widely used south of the Canadian border in a certain former British colony that is not called "Canada." Also, the Royal Observatory is worth visiting, and gives one the opportunity to straddle a brass strip on the ground that marks the Prime Meridian. When I went, I took a water taxi service out to Greenwich and rode a train back into London.


----------



## v v

anumberone said:


> Thanks for all the info, I am going to get to spend some time in London and hope to take advantage of your ideas. I really want to see the Maritime Museum. I am going to be in Amsterdam for a couple of days and Antwerp a few hrs. And overnight. I'm hoping to get to the rijks museum in Amsterdam along with taking some kind of tour. Also going to be in Nijmegen, hope to get to a Airborne Military Museum close by.
> Driving through France in two days only. Plan on spending a night in Bordeaux.



@anumberone 

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you, lots of work and travel for work got in the way.

I'm listing a driving route that will show you a little of the different French regions and misses driving through Paris (there are 3 ring roads on the popular Paris east side, all are busy if you get the wrong time of day, best avoided unless you like excitement).

You also have the option of using the TGV or other high speed trains say from Amsterdam to Paris to Bordeaux then pick up a car.

Utrecht - Eindhoven - Hasselt - Namur - Liege - Reims (this section is through the Ardennes where Patton had his tank battle) - Epernay (the center of Champagne production) - Troyes - Auxerre (look out for the cathedral on your right as you cross the Yonne river) - La Charité-sur-Loire where you will join the A77/N7 heading south towards Nevers - Moulins - south of Moulins pick up the N79/E62 Expressway westwards direction Montlucon - Montmarault is where you take the A71 south direction Clermont Ferrand - about 10km before Riom turn off the A71 onto the A89 direction Brive - (you cross the Massif Central through the northern part of the volcano national park here. They are extinct and fairly small but a lot of them) - Brive - Bordeaux on the A89/N89

Hope this helps, it's a mix of Interstate and national roads, will certainly give you a flavour of some of France.

Good luck


----------



## v v

* Sunday 6 January Day 24 ~ SLO to Canoga Park, LA following the coast where possible 
*
_Written France ~ Saturday 1 June 2019
_
After another pause here we go again, more of this fragmented journey.

Warmer and brighter than the previous couple of days as we re-join the road south. Pass through mainly pristine farmland although nobody working as it's Sunday. Through the giant Vandenberg air base to Surf Station, in my eyes one of the great rail stations of the world.
Improbably named and improbably located, and although having travelled through the station a couple of times there was never an occasion to experience it. Rosie and Milton were very gracious about making this detour and humouring me. They may even have enjoyed the visit themselves?

Photos tell the story, the rain and winds from the previous day were still evident in the movement of the ocean


Perfectly named





Sand from the beach is part of the station





View from the beach side rail line





View of the bay to the north in the direction of SLO





We were lucky to be there as a Pacific Surfliner arrives. 1 passenger off, and 1 on. It was strange feeling to see an Amtrak train arriving at a remote station that we were not there to board





Surfliner heading north





Still a few waves





Then there was this warning, repeated several times around the staton. Apparently the Great White remains still waiting to ambush it's prey. Sounded scary to us and they can be huge too!





This gentleman was a real character, notice where he places his chair. He's an ex airforce officer who lives about 15 miles away, think his name is Bob. He likes to see the few trains each day, speak with the tiny amount of people using the station or the beach and watch the ocean. He had plenty of interest to say and quite a few funny stories, we were all pleased to have met him





Surf Beach Station, the official plaque. It's a quiet and almost wild place to have a station, it feels more part of the beach than the land behind it.
There are a few basic facilities, toilets, car park and that's it, but can't think anywhere else on the planet that is quite like it.





After a couple of hours we continue south, look at Santa Barbara through the car windows but don't feel any wish to get out to explore. Suppose it's just not our type of place. Drive the Ventura Highway watching a few people surfing, the waves are not as big as further north.

Arrive back at Milton's early evening, quick dash round to the Mexican bakery for a top-up.


----------



## Asher

anumberone said:


> Thanks for all the info, I am going to get to spend some time in London and hope to take advantage of your ideas. I really want to see the Maritime Museum. I am going to be in Amsterdam for a couple of days and Antwerp a few hrs. And overnight. I'm hoping to get to the rijks museum in Amsterdam along with taking some kind of tour. Also going to be in Nijmegen, hope to get to a Airborne Military Museum close by.
> Driving through France in two days only. Plan on spending a night in Bordeaux.





v v said:


> @anumberone
> 
> Sorry for the delay in getting back to you, lots of work and travel for work got in the way.
> 
> I'm listing a driving route that will show you a little of the different French regions and misses driving through Paris (there are 3 ring roads on the popular Paris east side, all are busy if you get the wrong time of day, best avoided unless you like excitement).
> 
> You also have the option of using the TGV or other high speed trains say from Amsterdam to Paris to Bordeaux then pick up a car.
> 
> Utrecht - Eindhoven - Hasselt - Namur - Liege - Reims (this section is through the Ardennes where Patton had his tank battle) - Epernay (the center of Champagne production) - Troyes - Auxerre (look out for the cathedral on your right as you cross the Yonne river) - La Charité-sur-Loire where you will join the A77/N7 heading south towards Nevers - Moulins - south of Moulins pick up the N79/E62 Expressway westwards direction Montlucon - Montmarault is where you take the A71 south direction Clermont Ferrand - about 10km before Riom turn off the A71 onto the A89 direction Brive - (you cross the Massif Central through the northern part of the volcano national park here. They are extinct and fairly small but a lot of them) - Brive - Bordeaux on the A89/N89
> 
> Hope this helps, it's a mix of Interstate and national roads, will certainly give you a flavour of some of France.
> 
> Good luck


Thank you for taking the time to help. We are going to have almost three days in Bristol, so if jet lag don't interfere too badly I should be able to see quite a bit. We are going to drive to Brighton, and after their show, get a early start and drive from Brighton to London, spend the day and catch a late flight to Amsterdam. Have the next day to explore. Play a show, drive to Nijmegen, not too far, play a show, drive to Antwerp. Play show, then catch a train to Paris early the next morning. This is where things get sketchy for me, Steven who has been to Paris many times, never has, but wants to go to the top of the Eiffel Tower. He's thinking rent a car and driving there. To me it's a huge consumption of the clock, and I'd just as soon wave as I see it in the distance. But, he has probably done that a lot, it'll all work out. 
What size did you make those photos to upload into your post. They are all really thoughtful shots.


----------



## junebug

v v said:


> *Saturday 5 January Day 23 ~ Part II... Big Sur CA to San Luis Obispo CA driving down the Cabrillo Hwy, US Highway 1
> *
> _France ~ Sunday 5 May 2019_
> 
> 
> ... and the day continues, rain getting heavier to the point we can't always see the ocean. It's a combination of rain and a sea mist which strangely looked good with the mist hanging in the trees, feels a bit like a rain forest. It comes and goes, this is real weather.
> Milton reads out his pamphlet. There are a couple of viewing points to the south where we may be able to get close to view seals, but not any old seals, Elephant seals. We are interested but not hugely excited as we had seen seals in the bay at Monterey, of course we would stop but it's getting very wet out there.
> Milton then reads a few facts. They were hunted almost to extinction, I think only about 100 were left on the California coast, but since conservation measures had been introduced their numbers had expanded rapidly. They return to the beach where they were born every winter, just about this time of year. They migrate south to mate and to have their young, then return north. The males can weigh in at over 2 tons, as much as a pickup truck and can grow to 16 feet long.
> At this point Rosie and I are listening, a little more interested now.
> 
> 
> During a clearer spell this is what the ocean looked like
> 
> View attachment 13340
> 
> 
> 
> We arrive at one of two Elephant seal access points, for those interested the one we stopped at is about 5 miles north of San Simeon at this GPS location 35.663225, -121.257733
> 
> At least the rain had eased and it was brighter, still raining but not too bad and we are getting used to it. The parking was good and there was a trail at the back of the beach directly overlooking, yes Elephant seals in all sorts of poses. Having never seen any before they came as a shock, how small the females were and how large the males were, quite a magical panorama below us.
> 
> Two males, a female and an new born pup
> 
> View attachment 13341
> 
> 
> 
> A pair of juvenile males play fighting, an adult behind not particularly impressed
> 
> View attachment 13342
> 
> 
> 
> While the males fight, the females sleep
> 
> View attachment 13343
> 
> 
> 
> Easy to see how they got their name
> 
> View attachment 13344
> 
> 
> 
> What a pose from a female
> 
> View attachment 13345
> 
> 
> 
> This best displays the enormity of these animals
> 
> View attachment 13346
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We stayed a long while, a real privilege to just drive off the road, no fuss and see these magnificent animals in their own environment. Thank you to the people and authorities who enable this to happen.
> 
> Not too long to finish the day's driving into SLO, we take our time at the hotel then meander across the road to eat, too damp to go out into the town so stay in a watch a movie. Another day tomorrow to include fulfilling an ambition to visit Surf Station and take a look at Santa Barbara for the first time before heading back to Milton's at Canoga Park.



Gorgeous!! Your pictures are amazing. I went to that same beach, I think! Not far from Hearst Castle?


----------



## junebug

v v said:


> The purpose of this travelogue is to tell a story from the original idea, the reasons, through to what goes right and wrong in the planning and booking stages, to the start of the journey in Brentwood, Essex, UK on the 15 December 2018 to our hoped for safe return on the 31 January 2019.
> 
> Entries will be made if there is something to say, so not too much between now and December. The main reason behind starting so early is to show how random some travel is, how exciting planning can be and the disappointments too. So here we go...
> 
> We live both in the UK and France, we still work but are semi retired. Brexit features large for us as our holiday home in France may not be tenable if Brexit goes horribly wrong. This isn't a political point, just a plain fact and plays a big part in the next few years of our lives.
> 
> Our business is busy between mid August through to the end of March. There is a dead spot from around the 7 December through to the 31 January every year. Now normally we don't always make the most sensible decisions when it comes to travel, we are self described 'travel junkies'. True to form after 4 journeys in a row which all included some part of the USA and always including Amtrak and Greyhound we decided some of our other travel dreams need to be fulfilled, Iran is at the top of the list.
> 
> This is before Mr T decided to pull out of the nuclear deal too. So initial enquiries told us that September/October was a good time for us although this is the epicentre of our first period of busy at work. Next up because we are British (along with US and Canadian) citizens we have to have an official guide from the moment we arrived in Iran to the point we leave, not our style at all and this knocked us back. This only applies to citizens of 3 countries on the planet, bad luck for us.
> 
> Where next on the list. Central Asia, that would take a lot of planning, South America the same. Then by chance we were talking to a friend and he mentioned Algeria, a country we had tried to visit in 2002 with our camper but were refused entry as we had no visa. At that time visas were very difficult to get, because they had on going internal troubles and again because we're Brits.
> 
> That evening checked out Algerian entry conditions for 2018, no more difficult than a year and a half ago for Russia, the visa just takes a little longer. Our idea is a good one. Algeria has some of the best Roman ruins anywhere around the Mediterranean, and the Arab world of north Africa has always excited us. We (Rosie) has good French and they have more than 1000 kms of a good railway system running across the Mediterranean coast, this is a really good trip for us and we've waited a long time to go there.
> 
> Planned a route, starting from the UK or central France, train down through France to Marseilles, overnight ferry to Algiers. Using mainly Algerian railways plus taxis and buses visit maybe 4 or 5 cities/places/sights in Algeria, then ferry from western Algeria to southern Spain, train back into France/UK. Created a second alternate return route which would be via Sicily, then mainland Italy where the train is actually driven on to the ferry, we were set with great outline plans.
> 
> Then Brexit started to get serious. Any Algeria visit would have to be the same September/October time of year, the middle of our busy season. If we have to sell up in France there is an enormous amount of work to do there first, enormous is not a big enough word. We had a couple of talks around this and decided that for the first time in years we should be sensible, we can't take 4 weeks out in our busiest time, very deflated.
> 
> But you can't keep travel lust at bay. When an email popped up from our dear friend Milton asking when were we visiting the US next it hit the button! We found excellent reasons for not being in Europe from December to end January, convinced ourselves that as Brexit day was 29 March 2019 we would return to Europe rested and refreshed ready for whatever the politicians have managed to concoct for us, the perfect answer all round (ok we kid ourselves a little).
> 
> There was one condition we threatened each other with. This trip had to be as close to a regular 'holiday/vacation' as we could get, not at all like the last journey earlier this year which felt at times like an assault course (although it may have been one of our best ever travels).
> 
> All we have to do is to get ourselves to Los Angeles a few days before New Year, in the most comfortable but interesting manner possible and on the lowest budget possible. All do-able so we started to plan...



I hope you get paid for your travel writing and photos. You're really good.


----------



## v v

Thank you June, that's very kind of you. That you enjoy the stories is more than enough for me.

Hope to find the time to write up the rest of this journey soon as we are just back from a shorter rail trip within France and that did have a few funny moments along with stunning scenery and interesting people. On top of that there are the beginnings of a new very long distance rail, bus and taxi journey which is moving from an idea to actual research which I'd like to write about too.

BTW, you're right about the seal beach it isn't far from Hearst Castle or SLO.


----------



## v v

anumberone said:


> Thank you for taking the time to help. We are going to have almost three days in Bristol, so if jet lag don't interfere too badly I should be able to see quite a bit. We are going to drive to Brighton, and after their show, get a early start and drive from Brighton to London, spend the day and catch a late flight to Amsterdam. Have the next day to explore. Play a show, drive to Nijmegen, not too far, play a show, drive to Antwerp. Play show, then catch a train to Paris early the next morning. This is where things get sketchy for me, Steven who has been to Paris many times, never has, but wants to go to the top of the Eiffel Tower. He's thinking rent a car and driving there. To me it's a huge consumption of the clock, and I'd just as soon wave as I see it in the distance. But, he has probably done that a lot, it'll all work out.
> What size did you make those photos to upload into your post. They are all really thoughtful shots.



Although I drive through Paris about 10 times each year it's like any world city, busy. If you are arriving from Antwerpen at Gare du Nord train station (you almost definitely will) then Metro + RER rail systems are by far the most convenient way to get to the Eiffel Tower, no doubt about that.
I guess Steven may be thinking about baggage after you leave the hotel or if you are travelling to the ET directly on arriving in Paris, maybe leave any bags at the 'Left Luggage' at any of the main stations and when ready to leave Paris rent the car then?

The recent photos are usually 1200 x 900 pixels although sometimes I crop them where the proportion is different but always using 1200 as the maximum dimension. Have been experimenting with photo size since the forum changed it's format and recently decided on 1200 x ? for the best compromise.

The camera is a Sony bridge camera which has it's limitations, but for travelling haven't found anything better for quality / convenience (built in high value zoom) / compact and light enough to take anywhere without hauling a full size SLR and camera bag with extra lenses etc.

It sounds as though your band travels are tight on time in a few places, I guess you will use the toll autoroutes when travelling distances? The autoroutes are as good as anywhere we have been in the world, the service areas generally excellent too. Here's a tip for paying the toll that Steven may well know. Use a debit or credit card to pay for your toll, not cash. If you need a paper receipt you generally have to press a button to the right of where the card is inserted.

Is it rude to ask what kind of band you are travelling with, you have piqued my curiosity.


----------



## v v

*Monday 7 January Day 25 ~ Sorting out and preparing for tomorrow's journey to Austin TX. Greyhound all the way via Denver CO 
*
_Written France ~ Tuesday 4 June 2019
_
Return rental car, start packing again although this time must be very light. It was difficult as we are travelling through very different climates on this section of the journey, we have to compromise. Buy a few 'bus' provisions including from the Mexican bakery, and re-start the discussion on Twinkies vs Ding Dongs, it's a tough life.
All set for the 'off' tomorrow.


----------



## v v

*Tuesday 8 January Day 26 - LA to Denver by road, travels over the Rockies
*
_Written France ~ Thursday 6 June 2019
_
*LA Greyhound Bus Station to Denver Greyhound Bus Station - Depart Tuesday 8 January 18:40pm Greyhound Schedule 1684 ~ Arrive Denver 17:45pm Wednesday 9 January 
*
Slow start but we are ready to roll on time. Bus from Milton's directly up to Chatsworth Station (CWT). Right bus, right on time and we are relaxed, arrive at the Chatsworth Amtrak and Metrolink Ventura County Line station. Buy tickets from a machine on the platform through to Union Station, LAX, from there we'll transfer to the LA Greyhound Bus Station about 2 miles away.


Ticket machines on Chatsworth station platform. The station appears unmanned although the waiting room is open




The station is interesting, has quite a few film and cowboy connections. Inside the waiting room is a museum, one info board tells that the station was opened by none other than the real Lone Ranger. A number of movies used the station buildings, trains and surrounding scenery for quite famous films, such as Stagecoach and the Squaw Man. As Hollywood flourished so did Chatsworth station becoming ever busier.








Then there was a model of a Saturn 5 rocket which puzzled us but only for a moment. Just down the road was one of the larger Rocket Dyne plants for assembly and development, mystery solved





Right on time again our Ventura county Line commuter train arrives, a double decker too





We are whisked through all the old film studio towns down to LA Union station. Comfortable commuter train, clean and bright.

Burbank Station, so California




We are around 1 1/2 hours early at this point so use the time to get a cup of tea and sit in the fabulous Union Station waiting area with the comfy leather armchairs, if only all stations were like this.

Soon time for a cab down to the Greyhound Bus station. Cabs are not our usual mode of transport but for such a short distance it was 2 buses and a possible short walk between the two, not much more to get a cab. Traffic was quite heavy and started to talk with the driver. He was a friendly person but became evasive when asked where he came from. We didn't press him but he talked of home although skirted around the edge of where that was. As we arrived at the Greyhound depot he told us he came from Iran and had arrived 16 years ago. He said that some passengers became a little upset if they knew where he was from which was a shame as he was pleasant, polite and drove well, just the sort of immigrant any nation wants.

We were surprised as we walked into the bus station. It was clean, bright and airy, the staff were helpful and pleasant, possibly the best Greyhound station we have ever been through. I have heard that the UK business FirstGroup have put Greyhound up for sale. This may be just what Greyhound needs as the service level has deteriorated since the FirstGroup's ownership.



There's our bus



We have boarding tickets one and two, and are allowed to board first, we get the choice of seats and take the bus right mid seating our favourite place in the bus, the adventure is about to start. Not too many board with us, but the bus starts to fill up at San Bernardino. Jolly bunch of people start to settle down after Bakersfield. We are heading towards an evening arrival at Las Vegas, should look it's best at night as we drive across the desert.
True to form Las Vegas looks amazing at night, it always impresses in a way nowhere else does. We have an hour layover at the Las Vegas bus station opposite Freemont Street, decide a walk is a good thing to do and stroll inside. Very different to when we were here in September, then it was packed but not so tonight. Obviously a weekday in January is not the same as September.

Bus station is busy so we stand for a while until we can re-board, but that's not a bad thing as we'll have plenty of sitting time.

To be continued...


----------



## Asher

v v said:


> *Tuesday 8 January Day 26 - LA to Denver by road, travels over the Rockies
> *
> _Written France ~ Thursday 6 June 2019
> _
> *LA Greyhound Bus Station to Denver Greyhound Bus Station - Depart Tuesday 8 January 18:40pm Greyhound Schedule 1684 ~ Arrive Denver 17:45pm Wednesday 9 January
> *
> Slow start but we are ready to roll on time. Bus from Milton's directly up to Chatsworth Station (CWT). Right bus, right on time and we are relaxed, arrive at the Chatsworth Amtrak and Metrolink Ventura County Line station. Buy tickets from a machine on the platform through to Union Station, LAX, from there we'll transfer to the LA Greyhound Bus Station about 2 miles away.
> 
> 
> Ticket machines on Chatsworth station platform. The station appears unmanned although the waiting room is open
> 
> View attachment 13822
> 
> 
> The station is interesting, has quite a few film and cowboy connections. Inside the waiting room is a museum, one info board tells that the station was opened by none other than the real Lone Ranger. A number of movies used the station buildings, trains and surrounding scenery for quite famous films, such as Stagecoach and the Squaw Man. As Hollywood flourished so did Chatsworth station becoming ever busier.
> 
> View attachment 13823
> 
> 
> View attachment 13824
> 
> 
> 
> Then there was a model of a Saturn 5 rocket which puzzled us but only for a moment. Just down the road was one of the larger Rocket Dyne plants for assembly and development, mystery solved
> 
> View attachment 13825
> 
> 
> 
> Right on time again our Ventura county Line commuter train arrives, a double decker too
> 
> View attachment 13826
> 
> 
> 
> We are whisked through all the old film studio towns down to LA Union station. Comfortable commuter train, clean and bright.
> 
> We are around 1 1/2 hours early at this point so use the time to get a cup of tea and sit in the fabulous Union Station waiting area with the comfy leather armchairs, if only all stations were like this.
> 
> Soon time for a cab down to the Greyhound Bus station. Cabs are not our usual mode of transport but for such a short distance it was 2 buses and a possible short walk between the two, not much more to get a cab. Traffic was quite heavy and started to talk with the driver. He was a friendly person but became evasive when asked where he came from. We didn't press him but he talked of home although skirted around the edge of where that was. As we arrived at the Greyhound depot he told us he came from Iran and had arrived 16 years ago. He said that some passengers became a little upset if they knew where he was from which was a shame as he was pleasant, polite and drove well, just the sort of immigrant any nation wants.
> 
> We were surprised as we walked into the bus station. It was clean, bright and airy, the staff were helpful and pleasant, possibly the best Greyhound station we have ever been through. I have heard that the UK business FirstGroup have put Greyhound up for sale. This may be just what Greyhound needs as the service level has deteriorated since the FirstGroup's ownership.
> 
> View attachment 13827
> 
> 
> We have boarding tickets one and two, and are allowed to board first, we get the choice of seats and take the bus right mid seating our favourite place in the bus, the adventure is about to start. Not too many board with us, but the bus starts to fill up at San Bernardino. Jolly bunch of people start to settle down after Bakersfield. We are heading towards an evening arrival at Las Vegas, should look it's best at night as we drive across the desert.
> True to form Las Vegas looks amazing at night, it always impresses in a way nowhere else does. We have an hour layover at the Las Vegas bus station opposite Freemont Street, decide a walk is a good thing to do and stroll inside. Very different to when we were here in September, then it was packed but not so tonight. Obviously a weekday in January is not the same as September.
> 
> Bus station is busy so we stand for a while until we can re-board, but that's not a bad thing as we'll have plenty of sitting time.
> 
> To be continued...


What's the old saying, fly into Vegas, leave on the hound.


----------



## v v

anumberone said:


> What's the old saying, fly into Vegas, leave on the hound.



Brilliant saying, we've met them!

It's an insight into a life we don't know, leaving Las Vegas by Greyhound is an experience never to be forgotten.


----------



## v v

*Wednesday 9 January Day 27 - across the Rockies on the I-70 to Denver in mid winter
*
_Posted France ~ Sunday 9 June 2019_


We both managed to sleep just enough, woke to see snow on the slopes of the nearby mountains. At sunrise some of the dramatic rock formations looked special with such sharp colour. We took plenty of photos but for reasons unknown only two worth posting.
Stopped at Green River for a breakfast hot drink. Snow on the ground and cold here, warm in the bus though. An unusual feature was the bus was still almost completely full, this trend started last year and is even more so in 2019. Whether Greyhound is more popular than before or whether they are running less buses have no idea. With no or little free space people feel crammed in and some become a little fractious. The driver was brusque and shut himself away, the boys at the back of the bus were occasionally boisterous.
Another feature of this particular route was it felt as though there were fewer rest/smoke stops than most routes, maybe because a lack of suitable stopping points? Whatever was happening the rest stops were welcomed by most people every time.

Vail had the best snow and the slopes were really busy, there had been snow since green River but probably not good enough to ski.

Very impressed at the Eisenhower Tunnel, at 11,158 feet elevation it is one of the highest road tunnels anywhere in the world. Great engineering feat and even more impressive that the roadways were kept smooth, clear and free to drive, it must take a terrific effort to keep this road open all year, well done Colorado.

After the tunnel there had been an accident which delayed our arrival in Denver by 30 minutes. For some this was a big deal as when we arrived in Denver Bus Station and the door opened it was like a release of pressure. Too long a ride for some?

Found the local bus stop near the Greyhound station, bus turned up almost immediately, we were dropped a few yards from our hotel. Changed from travel clothes and straight back out to eat. The restaurant we had intended using was closed Wednesdays, ended up with a Polish sports bar where Rosie had dumplings and I schnitzel, too much food on our plates for us, huge portions.

Tomorrow visiting the Colorado Museum and the State capitol, followed that evening by another 24 hour Greyhound ride to Austin, and a reunion with the (in)famous Bob Dylan.









To be continued...


----------



## v v

*Thursday 10 January Day 28 - Denver... Part I
*
_Posted France ~ Tuesday 11 June 2019

_
Days Inn on Colfax is a very well located hotel, and considering it's location is well priced too if booked in advance. Breakfast was ok, we managed to find some cereal without added sugar and plenty to drink. It's our second visit so we knew the hotel would be helpful allowing us to store our bags until evening, that coupled with excellent public transport more or less outside the door made it perfect for us.

The day was just right, blue skies and not too cold, first up a 1/2 mile walk down E Colfax Avenue to the State Capitol. On arrival we learn at reception that the next guided tour is in around 45 minutes, to access the dome you have to take the tour. Also told that we can't get into the public gallery of the Senate as newly elected Jared Polis was giving his inaugural 'State of the State' speech as Colorado Governor, but if we wished to watch the speech we could on a large screens in the Press Room, which we did without any accreditation.

Mr Polis has many aspirations, many of them would make us want to live in Colorado if he could push them through, but there was no mention how they would be paid for. That's the end of the reference to politics. He came across as a very well meaning and genuine man, also learnt he is the first US gay Governor. Rosie tells me he has a nice smile, I was taking in his hopes for the future of Colorado and how different his presentation was to British politicians. Have since learnt he's quite wealthy too, got a lot going for him.

At the end of his speech which appeared to be very well received we return to the foot of the stairs near the reception, waiting for our guide to arrive. Then who should walk down the stairs but Governor Polis himself surround by his entourage, he did have a nice smile.

We meet the guide and were taken to the dome access, along the way we see the great detail and fine design in this building. The last section is a flight of stairs up to a small door to the midway platform inside the dome, these stairs are pretty steep. Didn't bother us or any of the other 6 visitors but may be difficult for some.

Here's a strange thing. We were 8 visitors, 2 Germans, 2 French, 2 Australians and us, no Americans...

A few photos from inside the Capitol


















How is this for a view? Civic Center with the mountains (front range?) as a backdrop






Rosie is starting to feel a little under the weather, but stills smiles all day long as we are really enjoying this return visit to Denver. We take our time exiting the building, we really are so impressed with the quality, care and detail that has gone into this magnificent building. It's the third State Capitol we have visited, they have all had something special about them, but perhaps only Denver has that view.














Another Denver, portrait in one of the galleries










Next for us was lunch at the 'History Colorado Center' an interactive museum of the State, it was only about 400 yards away. They have a very nice café restaurant in the same building as the museum where we take the opportunity to eat another hot meal, we are on the road again this evening.


To be continued...


----------



## oregon pioneer

I have not toured the state capitol buildings in any state I lived in, but I have toured the one in Topeka, Kansas!


----------



## v v

oregon pioneer said:


> *I have not toured the state capitol buildings in any state I lived in*, but I have toured the one in Topeka, Kansas!



Me neither!


----------



## v v

oregon pioneer said:


> I have not toured the state capitol buildings in any state I lived in, but I have toured the one in Topeka, Kansas!



Sorry Jennifer, just me being a smart a...


----------



## SarahZ

The interior and exterior shots are nearly identical to Michigan's Capitol Building. The largest difference is the decoration in our dome.

A quick Wiki search confirms my suspicion: both buildings used the same architect!  No wonder.


----------



## v v

*Thursday 10 January Day 28 - Denver... Part II and onwards
*
_Posted France ~ Wednesday 12 June 2019_

*Denver Greyhound Bus Station to Austin Greyhound Bus Station -* Depart 19:35pm Greyhound Schedule 7309 ~ Arrive Austin 17:05pm Friday 11 Jan


The History Colorado Center is a new museum, it's bright, airy and eclectic, we thought it covered a lot of ground well, see the photos.

We are very interested in the 1930's Dustbowl disaster, it started by reading Steinbeck years ago, a stay in Kansas and then a longer one in Oklahoma, later a visit to the Steinbeck Center in Salinas CA, so were drawn immediately to these exhibits.





There was also a plague of locusts on the plains in the 1930's, ate the crop, clothes hanging on a washing line and much else. https://livinghistoryfarm.org/farminginthe30s/pests_02.html





100 years+ before Tesla and the like, absolutely amazing





Our hotel is opposite the old Fritchle factory, we had no idea until we visited the museum





Amazon move over, you are 150 years too late





What sort of pet cat is that, looks more like a Leopard cub. The children don't seem too sure either...





Magnificent sculpture outside the museum





Made our way back to the hotel for our bags, but as we were early for the evening bus stopped at Toms Diner in Colfax. It came highly recommended but we just weren't hungry so just had cups of tea. If we are ever back in Denver we'll go to eat there, it felt like a very comfortable place to sit and eat and drink and had a good range on their menu, next time...

Bus from hotel back to the Greyhound station, arrive just over an hour before we leave to discover the bus will be delayed by 2 hours, the driver has phoned in sick and they have to wait for his replacement. That's ok, stuff happens but we do have a connection to make at Fort Worth, we'll see.
We get to board at 10pm, just over 2 1/2 hours late, bus is full but again quite a jolly bunch of people. The extra 1/2 hour is due to two disabled people needing help boarding, a lady in a wheel chair with a guide dog and a man on oxygen, Greyhound accommodates them all, well done Greyhound.
Due to the extra waiting time quite a few people are chatting with others, maybe a smaller group had already transferred from another bus together? Once on the bus this continues, talk up and down the bus from this small community. We later find out there are quite a few interesting characters and very nice human beings too, but that's for the next day.

The relief driver had already completed a shift recently, it was the reason for our delayed departure so he could grab 3 hours rest, he did look pretty tired though but didn't complain. There were a number of truck drivers on board, they saw the condition of the bus driver and went up front to chat with him, just to keep him company and awake. This continued until the next morning when he handed the bus over to the next driver, the rest of us could only thank those driving professionals who knew exactly what to do.


To be continued...


----------



## v v

SarahZ said:


> The interior and exterior shots are nearly identical to Michigan's Capitol Building. The largest difference is the decoration in our dome.
> 
> A quick Wiki search confirms my suspicion: both buildings used the same architect!  No wonder.



In the main we have left old buildings behind now as have spent half a lifetime looking at lots and lots in Europe. But there is something that draws us to the US state Capitols, maybe because their similar design but more importantly they are obviously a place where real people work on important matters and there is a sense of power.

Sarah that's interesting that the same architect was used, I wonder how many they were involved in as the layout on the 3 we have visited is mildly similar.


----------



## SarahZ

v v said:


> Sarah that's interesting that the same architect was used, I wonder how many they were involved in as the layout on the 3 we have visited is mildly similar.



From Wiki:

"*Elijah E. Myers* (December 29, 1832 – March 5, 1909) was a leading architect of government buildings in the latter half of the 19th century, and the only architect to design the capitol buildings of three U.S. states, the Michigan State Capitol, the Texas State Capitol, and the Colorado State Capitol."


----------



## v v

SarahZ said:


> From Wiki:
> 
> "*Elijah E. Myers* (December 29, 1832 – March 5, 1909) was a leading architect of government buildings in the latter half of the 19th century, and the only architect to design the capitol buildings of three U.S. states, the Michigan State Capitol, the Texas State Capitol, and the Colorado State Capitol."



Thanks Sarah


----------



## oregon pioneer

Thanks for the info about the Fritchle! I am very interested in old electric cars, as they were the norm till oil companies and automobile manufacturers teamed up to defeat electric-based and mass transit. An out-of-print movie, the End of Suburbia, documents how oil won out. The movie also theorizes that we can't keep consuming oil (and everything else) like there is no tomorrow, and that particular crash hasn't happened yet, mostly for political and technological reasons. But it's my personal opinion that the longer we put off paying the piper on that one, the harder the fall will be in the end. 

Loved the photo of the kitten. I think it looks like a bobcat, with it's compact body and spots.


----------



## PVD

"Who killed the Electric Car" is another good documentary on the subject. My friends from the Power Authority of NY have helped me with my Alternative Energy classes by bringing samples of both EV and PHEV cars to my school and doing presentations on EVs and their place in NY. Tomorrow I will be manning a table at the CUNY Solar + Storage Summit representing the electrical trade in NYC. Retired but kept in the game......


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## v v

Thanks Jennifer and PVD, electric vehicles and renewables are subjects that will grow and grow. Only yesterday Scotland announced they have sold off their last non-renewable power generating plants (based in England) and are the first country in the world who will be reliant on renewable energy only. They are making massive investment is football field sized battery storage plants to retain wind generated power from when it is available for availability for when it is needed, they think this is the way forward for power that is reliant on less than predictable climate sources.
In Europe the biggest complaint about electric vehicles is the cars are sold but a completely inadequate charging infrastructure is available to recharge batteries, and until the 10's or 100's of thousands of charging points are in place that sales will not take off.

Fascinating what you have both written about EV's, had no idea at all even though worked in various aspects of automotive for the majority of my working life, thank you.


----------



## v v

*Friday 11 January Day 29 - to Austin, TX by Greyhound
*
_Posted France ~ Friday 14 June 2019_


An unusual day ahead of us, we learnt a lot.

Woke to dull, grey and wet plains country and soon heard we were going to miss our connection in Fort Worth through to Austin. Later in the day we phone Jim (Bob Dylan) to let him know we will be late, he had offered to collect us from Austin Greyhound station at around 5pm. At this point we didn't know when we would arrive.
It wasn't too much of a problem for us as I had researched how to get from Greyhound (right out of town opposite side to our hotel) to our hotel by bus, and Jim probably had better things to do with his Friday evenings than to wait for a call from us.
Jim being Jim offered to pick us up what ever the time, what a sweet man he is, we'll see how it goes.

There are some curious conversations going on around where we were sitting in the center of the bus, two men behind us, one man behind and on the opposite of the aisle, two men opposite, and one man opposite but one row in front were occasionally talking about drug taking and prison. Out of the 8 people in those seats 5 had been to prison, 3 just released, 2 had spent time in prison a while back and 1 was going to be arrested as soon as he got back to his home state and then was going to prison. Before knowing any of this they all came across as regular reasonable people, after hearing a great deal about them and their lives during the next 8 hours we hadn't changed our minds.
All those who had been or was going to prison were convicted of crimes connected with drugs, they all said that by being in prison it increased the likelihood of drug taking, therefore didn't solve the problem. Rosie and I were a little taken aback as to how many released prisoners were on one bus, they explained they were given a Greyhound ticket home on their release.

At a meal/smoke stop the young man across the aisle was the first person in the bus to jump up and help the lady in the wheelchair to get off the bus and into the diner, another man not part of this group but who chatted easily to many of us came out of the diner with 3 sets of meals and drinks to give to fellow passengers who he knew had no money. He was a thoughtful soul who worked as an oil rig engineer and didn't like driving.
He had stories to tell of the oil rigs (land and sea). He said he was sick of the pollution (spills) the rigs were creating and no-one seemed to care and that there was no real enforcement unless it was international news, plus many other snippets of working in the oil industry.

He said he wanted to get away from the culture that pervades life around oil rigs, great money but awful conditions. Of course this was only his story but he was very articulate and believable. He was obviously a caring person too.

Another young man just out of prison on parole in the row in front on the opposite side was drawing on a sketch pad most of the journey. As he was drawing I could see his sketch pad quite clearly, how he formed and completed his pictures, I thought he was very talented. After he finished each sketch he screwed it up and threw it away. When I asked him why he said because they were 'garbage', no good to anybody, which wasn't true at all. He really was talented. I suggested maybe he could find work in a graphics studio, or somewhere he could use his talent, but he had a very low opinion of his abilities. It's important to realise too that all his drawing was in a moving bus, even more impressive.

These men mostly spoke amongst themselves but we are in the center of them, we now have a very colourful image of life in US prisons and how you may get there. What was very touching is one of the newly released men was very nervous about going home. He knew he had brought shame on his family and thought they wouldn't want anything to do with him. He was very preoccupied with what his family would say to him or even if they would ever speak with him again.
He was the first to leave the bus before Austin, almost a group hug amongst this small group as he left, he shook Rosie and me by the hand.
It was just a short stop and we don't smoke so stayed on the bus. We saw him pull his bag out from under the bus then walk off, he was a giant of a man. Then we saw him stop, a group of 6 or 7 people were standing waiting for him and one ran over and gave him a hug, brought tears to our eyes.

Next there was good bus news. We were advised to stay on the bus until Dallas (the connection from FW to Austin was long gone) so we did. At Dallas there would be a number of options to get to Austin, we arrived in Dallas at 5:30pm and Greyhound found us seats on the next Austin bound bus, we left at 6:30pm.
Before we left the artist came over to us in Dallas bus station, he had a wait for a bus in a different direction to us. He pulled his last drawing out of his sketch pad, _"here, this is for you",_ then he was gone. The drawing is very detailed, it is full of demons, a nightmare, it was a very touching moment but we felt so sorry for him.

Our arrival in Austin was now slated at 10:30pm, we contacted Jim again and he said just fine, such generosity of spirit that man.

Arrived and there was long tall Jim Hudson, fussed around us like a mother hen and asked if we needed anything on the way to the hotel. Yes please some medication for sore throats (now both of us) and medication to relieve the affects of what we think is flu. Dropped by Jim's favourite supermarket for milk (for tea), throat lozenges and cough tablets, _"bet you're pleased to see us Jim"._

Get to bed at 12:30am, a long Greyhound day.

To be continued...


----------



## Asher

Nice bus ride, you are adaptable to every situation.


----------



## v v

anumberone said:


> Nice bus ride, you are adaptable to every situation.



Finding it hard to adapt to Brexit! but thanks for the encouragement.


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## v v

*Saturday 12 January Day 30 - in Austin TX
*
_Posted France ~ Friday 14 June 2019_


Plan today was: Jim had to work but then we would walk to meet him downtown, get something to eat and try a different Honky Tonk to last time.

What happened was: Rosie was not at all well, I didn't feel too good, we stayed in our hotel room all day. Jim and I went to a eat at a local Vietnamese restaurant after he finished work, were back at our hotel by 8:30pm, Jim went home. A scintillating evening for Jim... not.

Maybe better tomorrow, we arrange to meet Jim at out latest check-out time to see more of Austin.

To be continued...


----------



## v v

*Sunday 13 January Day 31 - Austin to Baja California Sur, Mexico 
*
_Posted France ~ Friday 14 June 2019_

*Austin to Dallas Fort Worth - *transfer* - Dallas Fort Worth to San José del Cabo, Mexico* ~ American Airlines Depart AUS 16:34pm - Arrive SJD 21:28pm


Sunday morning, leaving Austin day. Neither of us wanted to get up so didn't. Just about scrabbled around to get to the desk to check-out at noon with minutes to spare, Jim was on hand to help. We both felt like Zombies but were determined to get into town for the last hour or so we were there. Here are the fruits of our efforts, 2 photos.


There are some spectacular buildings going up in Austin, the tech companies have moved in and are changing the face of the city. Does look good though...





Rosie wanted to visit one of the famed boot shops, here's the result, one of the aisles





We've walked a little and feel better, but soon have to head to the airport which is not far out of town. Jim runs us there too, you don't know how grateful we are Jim.

We say our goodbyes and promise any other time we meet we will not be wusses, he takes it all in his stride, lovely man.

Starting to run out of energy but how hard is it getting on and off a couple of planes? plenty hard when your brain has gone AWOL. First up, left my hi-tec walking coat in Jim's car, but he's gone. No matter, we're going to Mexico where it is warm, we'll arrange something when we get back to LA.
Next, we wander around the airport looking to get airside to sit down, get through, walk a little and find somewhere to sit, then Rosie realises she has left her bag at the security area, she didn't bother to collect it after it went through the scanner. Run back to get it, all ok except for an ironic_ "where did you go?"_ and a second thorough check of the contents.

We thought we had got away lightly, we had made it to the Dallas plane and now it must get easier. Transfer in Dallas, smooth as silk until we realise that we are in the wrong departure lounge, and there are only a couple of minutes before our flight is called. Our excuse was our e-ticket gave us Gate 21, we hadn't bothered to confirm that when reaching the airport, it was Gate 30. Off we go...
Get to G 30, first I can't find my ticket, what the hell is going on. Then worse, Rosie can't find our passports, are we in an alternate universe?

We find everything soon and are on board, phew, we are going to Mexico. Lots of space on the plane, we can stretch out and relax, then we laugh (more like croak) at all these minor mishaps.

Arrive at San José del Cabo, no fuss immigration or customs checks, we weren't asked if we had a return ticket (which we didn't), waved through with a smile. Shuttle buses all lined up with clear instructions as to which was which, driven to the door of our hotel in Lomas del Rosarito, one of the villages that make up the urban area of SJD Cabo.

The hotel is the delightfully named _Hotel Posada Señor Mañana,_ it looks like a hippy type of place which is fine by us, but we are too tired to care anyway. After a short rest Rosie, who is starting to feel better wants to walk to the center, 'just to have a look at night' as we'll be gone in the morning. We do that but she runs out of energy fast so return to sleep in the Cactus bed, but we've made it, our first visit to Mexico, another adventure awaits.


To be continued...


----------



## v v

*Monday 14 January Day 32 - San José del Cabo, Mexico
*
_Posted France ~ Sunday 16 June 2019_


We are up in time for breakfast but I return to bed, this bug is real. Manage to take a photo of the unique Cactus bed before returning to it, thinking where you can get such a thing of wonder?





We discuss and decide that we aren't travelling today, Rosie takes our next hotel booking for that evening and asks the owner of this hotel if he can phone through and move our booking on a day for us, which he does with a smile, our only problem has been removed. Rosie then finds some pills for me then is off to breakfast. I sleep the rest of the day almost without waking.

The report is that breakfast is very good, a lot of fruit and cereal too. The hotel which we barely saw in the dark is pretty, lots of trees, shrubs and flowers growing in amongst the various walkways. After breakfast she returns to the town square to check out her first view of Mexico in daylight, colourful is the opinion, and this is a tourist town.

That evening we decide on a walk through the town, and although we see heavily armed police in places and also trucks with pairs of police standing in the back from time to time it doesn't feel dangerous, but almost no one out in the square. Christmas decorations are still everywhere, makes the place look pretty.





Rosie tires very quickly again although she mostly sat and read or slept during the day, back to the hotel as we are definitely moving on tomorrow to one of the places we have looked forward to, La Paz.


To be continued...
_

_


----------



## Asher

Sorry to see someone was feeling bad. Nice photo of a deserted Plaza, what time was it taken? Looks like your not going down to Cabo San Lucas, LaPaz is an interesting place, much different than the rest of Baja. Hope you enjoyed some of the great food Baja is famous for.


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## v v

anumberone said:


> Sorry to see someone was feeling bad. Nice photo of a deserted Plaza, what time was it taken? Looks like your not going down to Cabo San Lucas, LaPaz is an interesting place, much different than the rest of Baja. Hope you enjoyed some of the great food Baja is famous for.



As far as we can remember it was between 9:30 and 10:30 pm. There were some people in bars and cafés, just not on the street. We were told it was not high season until February, and this village is not near the coast either. It was the nearest place to the airport we could get a hotel that was also near a bus station combined. We do like the ocean but tend not to visit resorts or tourist towns very often, just our preferences.

La Paz sounded like just the place we'd enjoy, and we did. Didn't know about the good food there but you are exactly right, the meals we had there were excellent.


----------



## v v

anumberone said:


> Sorry to see someone was feeling bad. Nice photo of a deserted Plaza, what time was it taken? Looks like your not going down to Cabo San Lucas, LaPaz is an interesting place, much different than the rest of Baja. Hope you enjoyed some of the great food Baja is famous for.



So you visited La Paz, is that how you know about the food or is it famous for it? Have you travelled extensively in Baja? did you ever get to Guerrero Negro?


----------



## v v

*Tuesday 15 January Day 33 - San José del Cabo to La Paz, Mexico*

_Posted France ~ Tuesday 18 June 2019_


We both feel better, manage to have breakfast together. Our bus to La Paz isn't until around mid-day so we have time to spare. Rosie goes out to look and photo the town center in daylight, I'm slower and a little weaker than usual so have a leisurely shower and pack.


The town square is washed down and ready for the day





There were a few of this type of business, probably not aimed at locals?









Don't want to offend, but it made us laugh





The hotel rooms were loosely located around this central sitting and meeting area









Hotel called us a taxi for the bus station, normally we would have walked it but not today. The bus station was typical of others we saw during our stay. Parking places for 2 buses, the ticket office and waiting area quite small, and always groups of people (we only met Mexicans during our three bus journeys) spilling out of the office onto the steps or entrance, a very sociable setting.
Bought our tickets with a credit card, no problem and at the price seen online. The ticket clerk lady was very sweet offering to look out for our bags while we walked across the road to a fairly large Walmart for supplies. It looked very much like a USA Walmart, same layout and about the same product except more fruit and vegetable. Didn't see if they had Twinkies or Ding Dongs so not sure how Americanised it was.

We are following one of the main walkways when a large military type policeman walks past, checking down this and that aisle for whatever, it was a very surreal moment which will stay with us for a long time. He was maybe late twenties, about 6' 2" or 3", very fit and a very fine figure too. Dressed all in black he was extremely imposing in particular holding a large black automatic gun down his right side, finger on the trigger. The last thing to compute was he was pushing a shopping trolley... this last neither of us could associate with the man himself, it was completely unreal. Then we remembered of course we are in the center of a Walmart, even storm troopers have to go shopping.

Back to the bus station, bus is on-time and we board, nice bus. This bus is the next step up to a Greyhound. We do notice the whole section across the front of the bus is closed off, can't see out of the front window at all, this is the driver's secure area.

Fairly featureless landscape on the road north, until we near La Paz and mountains start to appear as do the cacti






Comfortable ride through to La Paz, about 3 1/2 hours. Entering La Paz it became confusing as there are no indications which is which bus station of three. We know it is opposite the waterfront so should be obvious. Bus pulls into the third bus station and stops, still no sea but we are told to get off as it is the end of the journey. The bus station vehicle entrance is at the rear of the office which masks the bay, it all becomes apparent.

I had done the research and knew where our hotel was, just a short walk along the promenade, left out of the bus station. 2 Minutes and we are there, both tired by now but not unwell any longer, we feel very good and like what we have seen of the town so far. Good hotel although we are too mean to pay for a sea view, the hotel is directly on the waterfront.

We search out a small supermarket for milk, back to the hotel and make tea, we feel very comfortable here.

Later that evening out for a meal, both had seafood and it was delicious, just as _anumberone_ predicted. A short stroll along the shoreline and early to bed, we want to explore this town and established seaport more tomorrow and need all the day.

A couple of photos from near to the hotel, good atmosphere and balmy weather, not bad for mid January










To be continued...


----------



## Asher

v v said:


> So you visited La Paz, is that how you know about the food or is it famous for it? Have you travelled extensively in Baja? did you ever get to Guerrero Negro?



I'm glad you liked the food, it's really good everywhere in Baja. I have been to LaPaz, only passed through and spent the night. I've passed through The Guerrero Negro area, just stopped for gas. My brother goes whale watching there. Sort of a remote place. I've done a lot of off road motorcycling in Baja helping a couple of guys that took group tours down there, mostly in the northern part, we did go all the way to Cabo a couple of times then fly home. Looking forward to more of your trip.


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## v v

*Wednesday 16 January Day 34 - La Paz, Mexico
*
_Posted France ~ Sunday 23 June 2019_


I'm still not fully recovered but ok if we take it easy, want to explore a little of La Paz just at a slower pace than we would usually, Rosie is almost back to full health though which means there is an end to this bug.

Found a laundry to wash a full bag of clothes for us, it was very low cost and all handled with a smile. Next up was to find the family we had asked about a boat trip the previous evening, their evening job was promoting and selling tickets for one of the boats that visits Isla Espirito Santo, one of the two marine sanctuaries beyond the bay. The instructions to find them in daytime were curious, they were behind a certain restaurant which happened to be close to our hotel.

I'm taking the liberty to tell a little of their story here, to us it was pretty inspiring. Mum, dad, and 2 boys. Elder about 18-20, younger maybe 10-12. Dad works on a boat during the daytime, mum along with elder son wash and clean cars during the day. Younger son at school during the week. In the evening 3 or 4 of the family are on the promenade all evening selling boat tickets for the company.
We find the restaurant, and sure enough there was a car being cleaned, older son washing outside, mum cleaning inside. She sees us and a big welcoming smile, beckons us into a room at the back of a restaurant. It's a machinery room. Looking around we worked out where we were, this was their home, they lived in the machinery room, all 4 of them. It was maybe 12 x 15 feet but immaculately clean. The mattresses were stood against the wall and a few personal possessions were there too, it was all too obvious but still a little unbelievable. So I was rude and asked if they lived there, mum confirmed they did. Rosie and I felt privileged to have met them, such a hard working family, everything done with a smile, not one word of complaint, we had a much to learn from them.

Mum explained that there was a northerly wind that afternoon and tomorrow, the sea out by the islands would be uncomfortable for passengers so they don't go out on those days. (Later at the tourist office they explained that it was agreed by an authority? in the town and enforced by the government whether the sea state was suitable for visits, this afternoon and all the next day was too rough, but the day after tomorrow would be ok). As we were leaving La Paz the following evening we couldn't get out to the islands on this visit, sounded like a great excuse to come back, we are starting to really like the feel of La Paz.

Dad had made a point of making enquiries on our behalf re where we were headed to whale watch, Guerrero Negro in the Reserva de la Biosfera El Vizcaino in central Baja (quite a remote place by all accounts). We hadn't asked him to do this just mentioned where we were headed for next, very kind. Mum explained that Grey whales had been seen in numbers at Adolfo Lopez Mateos, to the south of where were are headed, but it was almost guaranteed they would also be at GN.

All our conversations were in Spanish, English and mainly with their smart phone using google translate, we'll have to think of getting a smart phone before the next major journey, maybe?

Collect our cleaned clothes and return to the hotel, Rosie is going for a walk along the promenade and I'm going back to bed for a couple of hours. Later Rosie tells me when we come back that not only will we visit the islands but also we will swim with Whale Sharks, sounds exciting...

Although it isn't high season it nearly is and there aren't so many tourists here, well hardly any in fact. As far as we can tell it's 95% Mexican in this old established sea port and trading center. The occasional foreign voices we hear are Canadian in the main, a few Americans and us, we do like places that existed before modern tourism happened as they have an established culture.
Rosie discovered a supermarket not too far inland sold a good range of food, we're thinking of renting a small apartment for a month or so for a future winter stay, we'll see. That evening on our way to eat we call in at the bus station to buy 2 tickets for tomorrow's overnight luxury bus to Guerrero Negro, leaves at 9pm. We have all day to explore further into the town and plan to visit Balandra Beach (Playa Balandra) which is halfway down a large inlet on the La Paz peninsula.

Another very nice meal with help given by the staff of the restaurant in choosing from a comprehensive menu, then a stroll back to the hotel mid evening as we want to start early tomorrow. Say hello to the boat-ticket family on our way past, it appears as though they never stop working.

We like this town, is big enough to have all you need, is authentic as far as we know, has great transport links by air, bus and ferry. The balance between Mexicans and overseas visitors is at a level which suits us, and is on a beautiful bay with a serious amount of sea life in or near it, there is also a very nice feel to it. But from time to time police pickup trucks would roll past with heavily armed men standing in the back, strangely in just a few days we had started to get used to this. It was neither alarming or reassuring, almost starting to feel normal. But coming from a no-gun culture (UK) our instincts tell us this isn't normal (for us).

No photos for today, to be continued...


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## v v

*Wednesday 16 January Day 34 - La Paz, Mexico - photos found
*
_Posted France ~ Monday 24 June 2019

_
A couple of photos from the 16 January found. First is an alternative planting in front of your house, Saguaro cactus that can grow to 25 feet tall. Appropriate house name.





During the evening the wind is still blowing into the sheltered bay


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## Asher

I enjoyed your La Paz experience. Too bad the wind was blowing, it can blow down there. I'm really happy to hear you are takin a bus up to Guerrero Negro, you passed through some interesting places, Loreto is really nice with a well kept Mission up in the mountains above town, up the road is Mulege another town with a mission. Looking forward to reading Your thoughts along the way to hopefully touching a whale.


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## Bob Dylan

More great stuff Jamie! Reminds me of the old days when I would spend the Winter in Mexico in places where "No ingles" was the norm!

I'm impressed that as under the weather as yall were, that you were having such a good time! ¡Mas! ¡Mas!


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## Asher

I almost forgot another great town,
San Ignacio. Beautiful Palm trees and Mission


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## v v

anumberone said:


> I enjoyed your La Paz experience. Too bad the wind was blowing, it can blow down there. I'm really happy to hear you are takin a bus up to Guerrero Negro, you passed through some interesting places, Loreto is really nice with a well kept Mission up in the mountains above town, up the road is Mulege another town with a mission. Looking forward to reading Your thoughts along the way to hopefully touching a whale.





anumberone said:


> I almost forgot another great town,
> San Ignacio. Beautiful Palm trees and Mission



Sadly we didn't see anything at all at is was a night bus and no moon or cloud if there was a moon, pitch black at all times. But now you have mentioned them we'll take a look next time we are in Baja, personal recommendations often turn out to be the best, thanks.


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## v v

Bob Dylan said:


> More great stuff Jamie! Reminds me of the old days when I would spend the Winter in Mexico in places where "No ingles" was the norm!
> 
> I'm impressed that as under the weather as yall were, that you were having such a good time! ¡Mas! ¡Mas!



Think you ought to consider returning for a week or two, we know you enjoyed your time in Mexico. As far as we saw the security situation is obviously taken seriously but my best guess is you would have to be very unlucky to get caught up in a problem. Maybe have a chat with anumberone, he obviously is pretty knowledgeable about Baja.

Thanks Jim, it feels like an endless journey taking 5 months to write, but we're getting near the end now.


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## v v

*Thursday 17 January Day 35 - La Paz, Playa Balandra then night bus to Guerrero Negro, Baja
*
_Posted France ~ Wednesday 26 June 2019_


Moving on day but first I have to catch up with a little business email. Rosie takes a walk along the seashore, she's fascinated at the clarity of light here every day and compares it to the south of France. Here's a photo of just a normal morning on the promenade near to our hotel. People sweeping sand back onto the beach, a man reading his morning newspaper, a very chilled out place to be.





We check-out, arrange to leave our bags at the hotel until evening then off to discover a little more of La Paz before heading to Balandra beach by bus. As we are leaving the hotel Rosie mentions her right eye has a problem, fine lines of swirling floaters are moving across it. Eye floaters are not so much normal but happen to a few people. No cure but no pain and they go as quick as they come, although this is a different version. She decides that it is a new type of floater and we should continue with our plans.

Rosie has brought a hat with her, so as we discover a street market I decide to buy a wide brimmed one for the couple of hours on the beach as it's a hot clear day. It's a real field workers hat that Rosie makes fun of more than once. We like the different (to us) but ordinary look of this town, discover a second excellent supermarket way back from the main beach road that reminds us of supermarkets of 40 years ago selling everything in a small space. On our way back to collect our bags we'll buy supplies for the journey plus a few extras as we are not sure what we'll find in GN tomorrow.

Take the bus out to Balandra, a pleasant 45 minutes. On the way there are two separate resorts that appear to be new, one built around a marina, the other centred on a golf complex. The big money is already here including one large super-yacht that would have caught everyone's attention in St Tropez.

Playa Balandra was totally different, a rough parking area, 2 or 3 food trucks, a small toilet block and maybe 10 fixed beach umbrellas, and that was it. The bus drops us off at a sweeping bay, very shallow clear water, lots of sand, all sheltered by the hills either side of the inlet.

Rosie wants to walk the bay, she wants to walk in the Sea of Cortez. I'm interested in the Saguaro cacti growing wild on the hillside just before the beach, we both get to do what we want.






Standing at the top of the beach





This is what there is at this beach, not much but quiet and relaxing





A nest of tiny Saguaro, maybe 2-3 inches tall. One day they will turn into...





This





In the bus back we talk eye, now vision is similar to looking through a dirty window but hardly anything moving around. Rosie is still believing her eye will return to normal, wants to wait until the following morning to see what a night's sleep will do. Rosie had an eye problem about 30 years before, not the same but some similarities. At the time the diagnosis was it would eventually pass, her decision was to wait and see. My thoughts were, at the moment we were only 4 hours from 2 international airports to get to one of a number of major cities, Guerrero Negro was a pretty remote place about halfway up Baja and a long way from instant help, but it was her eye.

The return bus route was via Playa el Tecolote from where we could see the islands we had hoped to visit, next time. Out at the point it was also possible to understand that the sea was quite choppy, it wouldn't have been a comfortable trip if we had been allowed to travel.

Back to the supermarket, a bag of supplies then back to the promenade via the street market. Walk up to the hat seller and give him the hat back and explain that it had served it's purpose and if he could sell a nearly new hat then he was welcome to do so, I didn't want any money back. This caused a lot of confusion although he spoke good English, then his father came over looking worried so I explained again, father spoke even better English and understood the words but not the actions.
I couldn't explain that I loved the hat but wearing it around the place I had nearly taken Rosie's good eye out with the wide brim ~ twice. It or me was a liability and better that they got something out of it, than I threw it away. It had shaded me for several hours so I was happy and it wasn't a lot of money.

Next was a treat for Rosie, an Italian ice cream in an Italian ice cream parlour. The ice cream and the parlour were perfect, the view though the window wasn't too bad either.





Another stroll, then another delicious meal and back to the hotel for our bags. Here's the last we saw of La Paz waterfront...





Arrived at the bus station about 45 minutes ahead of departure, we had booked numbered seats too so no rush to board. Rosie says her eye is slightly better, I guess not by a lot though.

Nice bus, comfortable seats with good leg room and leg rests, looking forward to this long bus journey. As soon as we left La Paz at 9pm everything outside the window was black. Going through our minds were the advisories from the US government site re bus and road travel in Mexico, not advised at night. To be fair this was not a high alert zone, the red zone was south of Tijuana.

This long distance bus wasn't like a Greyhound where there is always an amount of chatter much of the time, the all Mexican (except us) passengers were a quiet bunch, but that may be the large TVs showing a movie? Have to write it wasn't inspiring when the bus would occasionally stop without warning apparently nowhere. Couldn't see anything from the bus headlights through the front screen as the whole of the front of the bus was shut off from the passengers. The only outside vision was through side windows.
There is obviously a lot of work happening improving this main road from north to south Baja as we spent quite long periods on what felt like tracks, some of them very rough. We decided we were having an adventure where ever we turned up in the morning, I'm hoping that Rosie is ok tomorrow.


To be continued...


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## Asher

Feel bad for Rosie, she sounds like a real trooper. Too bad the trip is overnight, waiting to see where you are when you wake. I think those small cactus were actually choia, they are really mean If you tangle with one.
Your whole trip has been full of suspense.


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## v v

anumberone said:


> Feel bad for Rosie, she sounds like a real trooper. Too bad the trip is overnight, waiting to see where you are when you wake. I think those small cactus were actually choia, they are really mean If you tangle with one.
> Your whole trip has been full of suspense.



Yes, most women are pretty stoic when not well and Rosie is a good example, I'm a lucky man. Not sure that I could be as calm in her situation but she is also driven by wanting to see a whale with calf up close when we get to GN, we've come a long way and a long way round to get here.

You are probably right about the cactus, thanks. They were at the base of that giant Saguaro and I put 2+2 together and got Saguaro. Note to self, do more research.

Hope to finish this section of the journey by this evening but we have 40°C + today (104°F) and it slows us down a bit. Tomorrow supposedly even hotter...


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## Bob Dylan

As the Flat Earth types like to say," What Climate Change?"


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## oregon pioneer

What a beautiful place! Thank you for letting us travel via your descriptions and photos. 
So glad we know it all turned out OK, or I would be really worried for Rosie.


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## caravanman

All this scenery is great, but where is the photo of you sporting your giant hat? 

Ed.


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## v v

caravanman said:


> All this scenery is great, but where is the photo of you sporting your giant hat?
> 
> Ed.



That doesn't exist, but just for you have found a similar one



The brim was wider and turned down more. It was so turned down that it wasn't possible to push it back to be able to look under the brim as the brim then hits your shoulders. I think it was designed only for looking down, not straight ahead! Great sun shade though.


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## v v

*Friday 18 January Day 36 - Guerrero Negro, Baja
*
_Posted France ~ Thursday 27 June 2019_


Woke in a service area with thick fog, that wasn't expected. Moved off almost immediately and as it becomes lighter the fog thins, there are giant cacti both sides of the road, a forest of them. A little later it looked like this, reminded me of Morocco to the north of the Atlas mountains, stony desert. Sorry about the photo quality.





Now it's light it's bad news for Rosie's eye, just about the same as yesterday evening, no improvement. Once we arrive we'll make a phone call to our optician, if we are in time as it's late Friday afternoon already back in the UK.
Arrive in Guerrero Negro at the small bus station, feel as though we have arrived in the wild west with a few modern touches.





It's a short walk to the hotel we have chosen, couple of minutes at the most. Walk through the entrance and see people in what looks from a distance like an office. Walk in and try to book a room but we are in the laundry, we all laugh. We're directed to the reception where we find the first Mexican we've met who didn't smile, this girl needs something to make her happy. On the other hand she was quite ok with us booking a room at 8:30am for immediate use, we appreciated that.

The town didn't look very busy, another signal that we have arrived in Baja in the low season. Here's a photo of the area in front of the rooms, no one and no cars, we may have been the only guests? The car at the end was for someone in the laundry.





At last we have a phone signal, thank goodness. Rosie phones the optician, if it had been 10 minutes later and he would have been gone for the weekend. The news was mixed, 3 options in his opinion making a diagnosis from 6000 miles away, get a specialist opinion asap in preference within 5-7 days. If it were the worst case scenario as the consequence of leaving it longer was an increased chance of losing sight in the eye.

Make full use of the good wifi, the only option to move on was a bus that night at 11pm to Tijuana. We return to the bus station and find we can book 2 seats on the ABC luxury bus for that evening, that's a relief as we had to get on it and would have asked to stand if it had been full. Now we know we will arrive in Tijuana Central Bus Station tomorrow around 9am, from there I had already researched the journey back to LA via the PedWest border crossing as that had always been one of our possible routes back into the US.

On our way out of the hotel we had noticed a café by the entrance, thought we would try to find breakfast there. Everything was good about that café, it appeared to serve as the town's meeting place too. Food and drink were good and the usual smiling friendly people.

Now the real work began, we had all day to work out a plan for getting Rosie to a specialist eye hospital. Lots of research gave Rosie a few more answers to possible causes, best outcome would be the jelly attached to the retina has detached. The worst was a detached retina or a torn retina, only a specialist clinic could give a full diagnosis and offer treatment. One downside of treatment in the US was if the retina had to be re-attached that flying was not allowed for up to 6 months, this would make life very difficult.

Checked out flights back to London, surprisingly difficult to arrange at very short notice. We expected to get back to Milton's in northern LA early Saturday evening, flying out on Sunday morning was close to impossible. Found an Aeroflot flight out on Monday via a layover in Moscow, would get us to London Tuesday late afternoon, that would 5 days after the first effects of the eye problem.

Contacted Milton that he would see us sooner than anticipated, that we intended to get X train from San Diego and would arrive at about this time, all ok there. Next was more difficult in more ways than one, it involved Bob Dylan.

Jim had contacted us about my coat left in the trunk of his car, he had a solution. He would book a coach ticket on the Texas Eagle from Austin, on the one we would be headed to New York on. Meet in the sight seeing lounge, spend a morning together and hand the coat over. We would have a chance to meet and talk while we were fit and well! He would then get off the train at Temple TX , have lunch in one of his favourite diner's, then get the late afternoon train back to Austin. That man is just amazing, not only inventive but very kind too.

But now we had to cancel this too. If we remained in LA for treatment we would not catch that train, if we flew to London we would not catch that train so no meeting with Jim. Understanding and sympathetic as usual, how good is it to have a friend like Bob Dylan.

We had not gotten so much sleep on last night's bus, maybe worrying a little and the unknown stops that didn't follow any pattern, so we decided to have a couple of hours sleep around lunch time, Rosie was exhausted.

Afternoon, sat in the café talking about the reason we had arrived in GN, we could see the whale lagoon across the flatlands surrounding the town, it was only about 5 miles away, so near and yet so far. Walked around the town, this is a place that has an amazing resource on it's doorstep and hadn't quite worked out how to use it to it's advantage, but it was getting there.

It still is a simple small town in a very remote location, dusty, dry and basic. If we had been staying to view whales it would have been ok for a couple of days as it had everything needed to be comfortable, but there was no apparent center to the town apart from where we were. Here is a photo of our hotel 'El Morro' with the neighbouring café 'El Pelicano' seen to the right of the photo.





This is downtown





We spend the rest of the day and evening walking, resting and a last visit to the café. Settle our one night (day) bill at the hotel and make sure we are at the bus station early. There is a sense of urgency to our travels now, the clock is ticking.
Board the bus, it's full, aren't we lucky to have managed to book seats. These seats are even more comfortable than last night, we get a good nights sleep. Feeling more comfortable in Baja now, know there are possible dangers but it doesn't play on our minds. We take sensible precautions, stay aware, trust our instincts and think what will be will be.

To be continued...


----------



## v v

*Saturday 19 January Day 37 - Guerrero Negro, Mexico to Los Angeles, USA
*
_Posted France ~ Thursday 27 June 2019_


The ABC bus leaves Guerrero Negro promptly on Friday evening at 11pm, even though the reason for this journey isn't desirable it still feels like an adventure to both of us. We fall asleep easily, there is a blackness outside the bus windows that can only be found in wilderness places these days.

This bus heading north has a few more stops than the previous one, the towns are larger and better lit. Once we reach El Rosario we more or less follow the coast road, but still too dark to see anything. At Ensenada which is a city at least the size of La Paz as seen from a bus window, it's light and our dislike for the partition behind the driver is increased, not used to not being able to see out of the front windscreen, here's the ABC version of the partition





From Ensenada to Tijuana the road runs close along the coast, similar to some of California USA in places, very beautiful in parts as the US version. The big difference for us is we have never seen the Californian sea state so rough, or even very rough, huge waves are rolling in and breaking on the shore. We are sitting bus right heading north, the opposite side to the shore line so no photos I'm sorry to write, but very dramatic in places.

We arrive around 9am at the Tijuana Central Bus Station, we know it's Tijuana as the bus doesn't go any further, there are no announcements. This is possibly the largest bus station we have ever been in, it's huge, clean and works.





We take the opportunity to freshen up before finding the kiosk near the taxi stand where we book and pay for the taxi to PedWest. This bus station is a few miles from downtown, the border is on the northern side of downtown and a taxi is cheap and easy.
The kiosk works so well, a driver is called over, given a ticket with our destination and fare already paid on it then leads us to his car. Once loaded I sit next to the driver, I want to see it all, heard so much about Tijuana and this border I want to take it all in. Certainly even at the bus station the place feels like it has it's own energy, we are both really enjoying this part of the journey. I want to confirm with the driver that we are going to PedWest but get a shrug. The driver does smile, but is fairly elderly (I'm allowed to write this as I can't be called young either) and not so spritely to the extent that I load our bags in deference to his age.
After another couple of attempts of asking where we are going I go to get out to ask at the kiosk, he pulls me back in, I try again but he says it's ok that we will be going to the USA. Well we do like an adventure and this is the official taxi service so why not.

Tijuana looks like it's reputation, a lot going on in an atmosphere of it's own. It's busy, lots of building works, lots of people of all types, and colourful. About 10 or 15 minutes later after a commentary from the driver in Spanish we pull up. We have driven north through downtown that's obvious, what isn't obvious is where is PedWest. We stand on the edge of a modern plaza with our bags, and still can't see an obvious entry to the pedestrian bridge over the border. The driver takes my arm and points into the corner of the plaza, "United States", it's well hidden. I tip the driver as not only did he drive very well in city traffic he was friendly and knew exactly where we had to go, so much for my ageism. He wants to shake our hands before leaving, a good ol boy.
The atmosphere at this entrance/exit is lively, maybe because it's Saturday morning, interesting all the same

We walk a little to find the entrance to the fenced walkway to the overpass, then we've got it, it's been a long while since we have walked across a border.





There's the sign, not so easily seen from 150 yards away





Up the zig zags, a long walk through a glass sided tunnel and then a spiral footpath down to a heavily built full height turnstile, with two bags I get jammed in the turnstile... and get shouted at by a US border officer to get a move on.
Rosie thinks this is funny, this makes the two border guards less than happy.
They ask for something and I don't understand, it turns out to be our passports but they don't use the word passport, more barking than shouting but still loud. I catch a sight of Mexicans behind us who look terrified, I think it's an intimidation act deliberately used to make us compliant but then I'm not a Mexican so maybe can afford to be more relaxed.

Walk through to the immigration hall, short queue, which was very surprising, from the overpass we saw the long long lines for vehicles to cross the border and knew it was often a 2 or 3 hour wait to cross.

A pleasant border officer takes our passports, just a couple of questions where and how long do we stay in the US, and that's it apart from a smile and_ "have a pleasant visit to the US". _Just a few yards outside the immigration hall there are bus stops, this is to take us round to the bus and tram/trolley stations to get a ride into San Diego.

Short wait, bus takes 3 or 4 minutes arrive at the San Ysidro International Border station, this is so slick. $ 1.25 each for a ticket by tram into downtown San Diego, unbelievable value as it's about 18-20 miles. Even better it's the Blue Line tram which terminates opposite the Amtrak San Diego Santo Fe Deport station, the start of the Pacific Surfliner route.

Enjoyed the tram a lot, don't often get to ride them but wish there were more around the world. 60 seconds after leaving the tram we were at the ticket office in the Amtrak Station queuing to buy our Surfliner tickets for Chatsworth. Decided to treat ourselves by travelling in Business Class, an extra $ 30 for a beautiful ride up the southern Californian coast in great comfort, we felt we had earned it.

Typical view of San Diego Santa Fe Depot, it really feels part of the city around it, so open on all sides





A beautiful Saturday with people all the way up the coast out walking and playing on the beach, it looked idyllic. The Pacific Surfliner is definitely one of our favourite trains, it connects so many varied parts of California from end to end.

We love Amtrak





Bless him, Milton is at the station waiting for us, he is very concerned about Rosie as they are great buddies. It's now Saturday evening and we are back at his condo, we explain we need to make definite arrangements now and question him on local hospitals and eye clinics. On the way to Chatsworth we speak about an eye problem Rosie had had 30 years earlier, not connected (we think) but it was a major eye problem. Would this negate our travel insurance as it could be termed an 'existing condition' ? Add to which if Rosie has to have treatment she may not be able to fly for a long long while, how to get back to Europe except by ship.

Rosie and I have a great deal of regard for the London eye hospital, Moorfields. We are not saying they are the best in the world but they have a fabulous reputation in the UK. We each have a cousin who has had serious eye problems that local hospitals couldn't treat properly, they both had successful treatment at Moorfields. Rosie actually took her cousin to Moorfields A&E (accident and emergency) and stayed with her there over a day and night. Quite simply Rosie heavily preferred to return to London to have treatment close to home and a place she and I have great faith in, of course the reasons below only added to that decision.

Milton provided the answer, he mentioned that only emergency departments usually worked on Sunday's, and Monday was a public holiday Martin Luther King Day so it may be Tuesday morning before Rosie got to see the right person. I had seen taking the time difference into account that we could be in London an hour or 3 before the LA hospitals opened, it would solve two potential problems at once. Now I had a mission, book us the first available plane out...

So that was the end of our London to Baja California, we had achieved what is written in the title. Not exactly how we wanted it to be but other things made up for minor disappointments. Rosie had the best of the 3 possible outcomes for her eye and can now see normally, so normally in fact that we are already planning a very very long distance trip to places we have never been.

I'll add a small technical footnote later as to how we returned to London etc and sorry it's taken so long to write this down, but living in two countries that are splitting up (Brexit) is taking a lot of energy from us to re-arrange our lives.

We both hope most got something from this journey, our big plus was to reinforce that people matter more than anything else.


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## caravanman

Your humanity and open minded approach to your fellow man shines through in every post. Well done you!
Glad to know that Rosie has had no after effects, and I look forward to hearing about your next adventure...

Ed.


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## oregon pioneer

Thank you so much for writing this all down. What a wonderful trip, up to the point where it had to be cut-short. I am looking forward to the final footnote. So glad the outcome was positive for Rosie. I know that Brexit is affecting you negatively, though, and I would love your thoughts on that. I am sure that is a topic for a separate thread in the AU Lounge. I do hope someone will start it, so we can hear how it is personally affecting AU members who live and/or travel in the UK and EU.


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## Bob Dylan

Well Done Sir!

Hoping to see ya'll again on the Avenue when your health is good and the Political Mess in our two Homelands is History!

Like Jennifer and Eddie and lots of AUers, I look forward to you two's next Great Adventure!

Have a Great Summer my Friends!


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## Asher

So sorry for Rosie and her eye difficulties, glad to hear they are cleared up as best as possible and she raring to travel again. Like everywhere on your trip, you captured Baja. Even the darkness of night is one of the things that make the place unique. Too bad you missed out on the whales, I'm sure it would have made those bus rides more enjoyable. Strange thing about Baja, things don't always go as planned, you seemed to take it all in stride.
I really enjoyed your journey.


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## v v

caravanman said:


> Your humanity and open minded approach to your fellow man shines through in every post. Well done you!
> Glad to know that Rosie has had no after effects, and I look forward to hearing about your next adventure...
> 
> Ed.





oregon pioneer said:


> Thank you so much for writing this all down. What a wonderful trip, up to the point where it had to be cut-short. I am looking forward to the final footnote. So glad the outcome was positive for Rosie. I know that Brexit is affecting you negatively, though, and I would love your thoughts on that. I am sure that is a topic for a separate thread in the AU Lounge. I do hope someone will start it, so we can hear how it is personally affecting AU members who live and/or travel in the UK and EU.





Bob Dylan said:


> Well Done Sir!
> 
> Hoping to see ya'll again on the Avenue when your health is good and the Political Mess in our two Homelands is History!
> 
> Like Jennifer and Eddie and lots of AUers, I look forward to you two's next Great Adventure!
> 
> Have a Great Summer my Friends!





anumberone said:


> So sorry for Rosie and her eye difficulties, glad to hear they are cleared up as best as possible and she raring to travel again. Like everywhere on your trip, you captured Baja. Even the darkness of night is one of the things that make the place unique. Too bad you missed out on the whales, I'm sure it would have made those bus rides more enjoyable. Strange thing about Baja, things don't always go as planned, you seemed to take it all in stride.
> I really enjoyed your journey.



Thanks to everyone for their encouragement, we both really appreciate it.

Written this before, but worth repeating. We have had endless help, advice and ideas from this forum, this is a simple thank you to the whole forum but in particular to those who chivvy me along when I start to flag.


Ed, the next adventure should be different to recent years, I'll post a rough outline when the plans are a little firmer. To be included the city voted this year as the best place to live in the world. Then a city that changed it's name dramatically. A section of one of the Silk Roads, and with a little luck a drive across a not often seen Chinese desert. The end point isn't decided and maybe not even thought of as yet? but we are enthused even though the idea is still part dream, part reality.

Jennifer, feelings re Brexit are very intense in the UK, it's splitting the country in ways that I have never seen. It's possibly better to keep away from it as it drags out such passions and anger from usually reasonable people.

Jim, if we leave it as long as it takes to find solutions to current problems we will never meet again, we'll have to make arrangements to meet in a Honky Tonk in Buenos Aires or somewhere within a couple of years instead.

Mr anumberone, very pleased to have reminded you of some of your own Baja adventures, pleased to be of service. Have just read you are missing out on your Europe vacation, sorry to hear that as I know you were looking forwards to it.
You mentioned HS rail elsewhere on the forum, may I give you a personal recommendation. Have ridden on 5 HSR systems so far, the most exciting was end to end of the island of Taiwan, worth a spontaneous mini holiday to ride that train alone, you certainly realise just how fast you are travelling.

Some of the European HSR are ultra smooth, my view is that takes away from the experience a little as you feel like you are gliding on ice, more than travelling very fast.


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## v v

*Saturday 19 to Tuesday 22 January Days 37 to 40 ~ Los Angeles to London
*
_Posted France ~ Saturday 29 June 2019_


Saturday evening, only one thing on our minds is to book a flight to London. The original Aeroflot tickets I'd seen were no longer available, now the first was flight was Tuesday 22 to arrive London on Wednesday 23rd at 21:05. A day later than we wanted and also the evening too (although Moorfields A&E will be staffed 24 hours). We had made the decision to return for treatment, this was our overall best option so we've booked it. It would be 6 days from the start before Rosie gets to a hospital but the best we could do.
One advantage was Rosie would have 2 days to rest and just sit with her eyes closed in Milton's comfy apartment, no bad thing.

I tend not to give up on things though and sat up half the night studying all forms of flight offers, LA and London have so many flights there must be something earlier. Around 3am on Sunday morning a ticket offer appears, Norwegian LAX to LON direct leaving on Monday 21st at 18:10 and the best of it, arriving on Tuesday 22nd at 12:25 mid-day, nearly 30 hours earlier than Aeroflot.
We hadn't heard wonderful things about Norwegian so in the past avoided using them, but 30 hours earlier makes any mild personal discomfort immaterial. I book another pair of tickets knowing full well that the Aeroflot tickets are non refundable.

We are now proud owners of 3 sets of tickets to London, the originals from NYC, those via Moscow and now the latest, but Rosie is worth it.

We did receive minor refunds on the TAP Air Portugal and Aeroflot tickets, better than nothing at all. Had to start the procedure to try to get a refund or credit from Amtrak as we were ticketed through from LA to NYC via Washington. This was the one part of our original journey we were most looking forward to as we have never ridden the Texas Eagle or visited Normal IL, and were to visit the DC Capitol plus the African American museum. Still, needs must, there may be another time?
Amtrak did us proud. Due to the circumstances and a letter from the hospital consultant they gave us a full refund on all our outstanding train tickets, thank you Amtrak.

Apart from taking Milton and his friend Norma out to dinner we just started on the refund procedures and rested up till we left. It all felt a bit sad as each time we leave we really don't know if we are ever returning to the US because stuff happens in life as we had just experienced, so who knows.

Monday we are ready to go ahead of time, try to persuade Milton to come visit us one day but he's no longer keen to leave the US so it is unlikely. He runs us down to the Van Nuys 'Flyaway' bus station, then 40 minutes or so into LAX airport. Milton looks sad and forlorn, we try to give him big smiles but it's difficult, we have to go.

All the normal stuff at the airport, we are flying on 787 Dreamliner, we think one of the more comfortable planes even in economy. As we board we can't believe how many empty seats there are, we have our 3 seat row to ourselves and there are many others with no passengers, why weren't the seat prices reduced to just sell them?
Food was very poor, the space and comfort very good and Rosie had 2 seats to spread out on, can't ask for more at such short notice.

Arrive on-time at London Gatwick, usual airport procedures which I'm not a fan of, then Gatwick Express train to Victoria. A few transfers on the tube and we are at Old Street station, only just over 1 1/2 hours after landing. A 300 yards walk to Moorfields eye hospital, find the A&E entrance and interviewed within just a few minutes.
4 hours later Rosie has seen two specialists and we are leaving, with a third confirmatory appointment for the following morning at 10am. Rosie had an age related, detached jelly which haemorrhaged and can tear the retina, but fortunately in Rosie's case didn't and left no damage to the retina, she had got away with it.
We were both so happy travelling from central London back to Essex, don't think we had realised how much anxiety it had caused even if only in the sub-conscious.

Back to Brentwood and Rosie's cousin made a lovely cup of tea, we're back.

Footnote to this note:
A couple of weeks ago Milton tried to persuade us to visit him at his small farm in upper New York state near to Syracuse NY. He mentioned a number of local, family and state events are happening around a certain weekend towards the end of August.
He knew we had promised each other we are not travelling far this year if at all except for business, which we are in the process of closing earlier than planned due to Brexit. We have created a plan and a deadline which we must keep to.
He piled on the inducements to be at or close to his farm but we held firm... for 3 days then we booked a return flight to NYC. Boy are we weak when it comes to travel, and the chance to travel on more Amtrak trains.

Milton was involved in NASA and defence rocketry during his working life and is still a keen observer. Every year the local rocket club use his farm to launch home made rockets about 5 times each year. The big event this year is on Saturday 24 August including *IF* finished in time a very large local workshop built rocket. If there are people reading this who live fairly close by who are interested and would like to attend then please contact me, I'm sure it's possible to get an invite or two no problem, there's lots of space around the launch area.


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## Bob Dylan

Wonderful about Rosie, and Fantastic that yall get to return to the US to visit in Upper State New York with your California Friend. Keep us Posted!

" We'll meet again Someday on the Avenue.." Bob Dylan/ Tangled Up in Blue


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