# Review of Southwest Chief journey



## LarryUSA (May 1, 2014)

Hi everyone,

I was the guy that was travelling the Southwest Chief and Wolverine into Michigan on Amtrak for the first time Well I made it into Detroit and am there now Gosh its chilly here compared to Southern Cal but so beautiful. Theres so much i dont know where to start LA Union Station is a gem i encourage anyone to visit. The train was nicer than I expected. The seats were reclinable and roomy at first the views were so so. Excellent views of the LA skyline but after that it seemed it was a tour of LA junkyards clear into Corona. It was a trip passing through by train. I used to live there for a few years. The weather in SoCal was about 80 or so just getting into there spring heatwave there lol.

After that it was dark and all signs of civilization disappeared into total darkness and cell reception was sporadic at best into Needles. We arrived at Flagstaff very early the next morning but i didnt get to see much because it was 4 am. Dawn breaking over the pastoral deserts of Arizona and New Mexico was stunning. Our first stop was Gallup, New Mexico our first actual time change going from MST to MDT. There you could see a childrens choir boarding and their parents sending them off in the tight knit community. At that point I was starting to feel as if I were in the old west Little House on the Prairie days half expecteing the morning staecoach to arrive lol.

We arrived in Albuquerque around noon so i got out for a stretch. It was somewhat warm in ABQ around 75 I was pleasantly surprised they had a metro commuter train service there The Road Runner i believe. Heading north the train was delayed by something and we skirted along at around 5 mph. And then around Lamy the desert shifted as we climbed into the stunning Sangre de Cristo Mountains and into little towns such as Canyoncito. There we saw coniferous pines hanging iff the side if the mountain, their branches exposed cliffside. Isolated places I wonder how they even connected into the rest of the state At Raton me and my new found travelling partner got out for a bit. From his gps i found out we were actually quite high in elevation. Id met him at the station in Los Angeles. He talked and talked and reminded me very much of my father who passed three years ago. He basically stayed with me through Chicago. We passed under a high rail tunnel at the Colorado-New Mexico border for a good little bit. That was exciting. It reminded me of a Disneyland ride.

It was at this point I decided to treat myself to dinner in the dining car and was seated with a couple who had a radio program in Oregon. They were telling me about life in Denver and in the Pacific Northwest. At this point the sun set in crimson shades with its rays behind a beautiful snowclad peak in the Rockies near Trinidad, Colo. Does anyone know what peak it is? I had assumed. It might be Pikes Peak but later research hinted it was Blanca Peak. Does anyone know?

One thing that I came across with on the train was that even though we are in 2014, the west and indeed much of the country is still very much a frontier with western cities strung along like beads on a string with literally hundreds of miles of nothing at all in between. We tend to live in the bubble of our metros and forget that. You can tell that much of California was indeed settled by ships as they rounded Cape Horn as by the pioneers on wagon trains and the railroads. And the shapes of Arizona and New Mexico are huge and empty of people save for isolated pockets of civilization. Cell service was intermittent. This revealed that our highways are but enclaves of civilization connecting pockets of civilization. Indeed as the train crossed into Kansas one thing i noticed is unlike the west there was always a light or sign of civilization even if just a small farm. The west indeed is still a frontier even though we dont notice that in the "Coruscant", as my friend calls it, that is Los Angeles or stuck in traffic in Phoenix.

The hostess lady was interesting. She sound like she was from the islands but looked as if shed come from Ireland or Britain. The one thing that I was left behind with on a sad note was the extreme poverty along the side of the tracks in New Mexico Houses falling apart etc. It was at this point as it got dark I felt as if I was entering another country. As the train passed from Colorado into Kansas the desert vanished but again pitch black and the air became more humid. I couldnt see anything but grain or wheat silos positioned at the train stations we passed. The next day the sun rose through the mists of the Kansas towns of Lawrence and Topeka. I wasnt expecting Kansas to be so hilly. The trees had changed from the desert and mediteranean i was used to even at Colorado into trees winterized and just budding trying to return from winter. I almost felt like Id travelled in time back into the 19th century. I half expected to see a Union soldier emerging through the misty forest. We arrived at Kansas City at around 7. It was somewhat chilly but definitely within Southern Cal parameters. The expected high was about 77. The state line was blurry not sure when i crossed it or even what side of the line the station was on but I was pleasantly surprised by the area and the hill. Not expected in Missouri. I was expecting the stereotype flat farmland and corn fields. The downtown core reminded me surprisingly of Seattle or Portland with its hills. I know an odd comparison to make with Middle America.

I was astounded by the beauty of Missouri. The beautiful rolling hills and grass with shades of light green and yellow were breathtaking. It was in La Plata, Missouri, a group of Amish or perhaps Mennonites boarded. It was then I realized I wasnt in California anymore Toto lol. On the viewing car I could hear them speaking Pennsylvania German hearing that for the first time. I had no idea the Amish settled so far west as Missouri. I passed through Marceline, Missouri, Walt Disney's birthplace and childhood home, and saw the inspiration for Main Street USA at the Disney parks. Although Marceline was far removed from Disneyland it was still great to see. After Missouri we passed through a tiny sliver of Iowa at Fort Madison. Not even sure if this part of the state has much connection with the rest of Iowa so i dont have much to say except I saw some railroad workers taking their break at the station.

After that we crossed the truly mighty Mississippi River into Illinois. I hadnt realized how truly massive the Mississippi is. Its almost a coastline. I hadnt thought of Iowa having a "coast" with a house perched on a shoreline bluff until now lol. I realized the Mississippi was wide down at Memphis. I had seen it as a child but hadnt realized it was so wide so far north closer to the source in Minnesota.

Illinois is another divergent state that parts look as if Lincoln is still practicing law. Very fascinating to pass through towns that look like theyd been preserved since the 19th century. As the train passed through the suburbs in Chicago wow just wow. I am impressed. Naperville was amazing. Each station along the route almost looked like stops at some Bavarian village. Chicago's skyline was truly impressive. Id never been there. Growing up we had Superstation WGN on cable so Chicago is the one city outside of LA I was familiar with at least its media but that couldnt convey the sheer awesomeness of the city. It had all manner of trains and subways. Chicago's Union Station was different than Id suspected very modern almost like an airport. I was able to get my bags at the station. Im guessing the older part was somewhere else.

Chicago is DEFINITELY a city i want to return to. It was at Chicago I realized I was no longer in Southern California's neo summer as i stepped into an invigorating 45°F at Union Station without a jacket lol. I felt like id stepped into a meat freezer lol. I easily found my way to the Wolverine but theyd made no announcement over the loud speaker for some reason. In LA I was discouraged from checking my bags to Chicago because my Birmingham, MI stop had no checked bagge but i pushed the issue and did it anyway.

As an aside, can you LEAVE on a train from Birmingham or must you go to Pontiac and can you buy tickets at Pontiac?

So now the Wolverine was an adventure. The conductor lady was nice and accomodating and helped lift my bags onto the train. This train was not a two story superliner like the Southwest Chief had been. Going to Detroit from Chicago was supposed to take five hours or so. I saw beautiful views of Lake Michigan truly a sea. I had never been to the Great Lakes before. It truly is the north coast like the Mediterranean but colder lol. And in Indiana standing next to the beautiful view was a scary looking power generating plant lol. I crossed another time zone again going into Eastern Time. I passed the beautiful town of New Buffalo, MI and then it got dark so I didnt see much. It seems like Michigan is in the wrong time zone like it should be in Central or a 30-minute offset like Newfoundland lol.

It was dark most of the way through so although i went through a ton of interesting places i didnt get a chance to see much. I went through Kalamazoo and Battle Creek, where the police boarded the train and arrested a man for unknown reasons and i saw the corporate signage for Kelloggs lol so ive been to the core of my favorite raisin bran lol and then at Jackson the police boarded again this time arresting a drunken woman for beating up a passenger all the while a 6 year old boy was barking like a dog and threatening to whip passengers with a belt as his mom slept lol. I found that all amusing.

So the train was delayed two hours. On board the train were a group of aimable high schoolers returning from a trip to Northwestern University in Chicago. Finally past Dearborn, the train entered the City of Detroit, where it was disturbing to see vast stretches of darkness in a populated city of 700,000. At the stop all I could see was a White Castle. I had never seen one before. And the outline if the Detroit skyline off in the distance with the Renaissance Tower and Casino Windsor off in the distance and I could see the Ambassador Bridge. Finally the train arrived at Royal Oak which had a lively and charming downtown busy with people. When I arrived at Birmingham I was greeted with 34°F lol and again brr no jacket. The train was about an hour delayed due to the arrests. So I absolutely enjoyed the trip and have seen lots of Birmingham and Troy, I havent seen much of the rest of Michigan. Id like to take the train back to Chicago too see those towns during the day. All I know is there were many ponds around. Its a very beautiful state and I am duly impressed. Troy and Birmingham are lovely cities and put to shame anything in California of a similar status. I am loving the northern foresty feel of the area watching squirrels and hearing migrating geese. I also cant get over how polite and thoughtful people are here. Perhaps slightly more reserved than in CA but so completely friendly.

Im wanting to see Detroit during the day. My friend doesnt have a car. To any locals reading would it be foolhardy to take a bus to downtown Detroit during the day or not? I know that Troy is perfectly safe and clean so much so it would make Newport Beach, Ca seem dangerous and rundown in comparison lol but i know there are problems with urban decay and crime in Detroit city. What say you: which would be the best and safest method to get to downtown Detroit by public transit from Troy?

One of the things I am finding is its hard to adjust that I have travelled 2,000 miles from LA. Mentally I still think I am in California but the weather reminds me different lol. Its only gotten to 70°F once and that was a thunderstorm heatwave and its been in the upper 40s and lower 50s ever since. I do miss the sun a bit but it makes an appearance now and then lol. But I find it envigorating since SoCal had no cooldown at all this winter. It does play havoc with my cirrcadian rhythm as its getting dark at 8:30 but its cold to me lol.

On the negative side I was concerned with the accumulation of dust or mold (?) Next to my seat area on the ceiling on the Southwest Chief and paying $2.25 for a single can of soda unchilled was a bit much. In the dining car they ran out of steak but I cant complain, I got mine. The water was a bit iffy. And my seat leg rest did not extend properly so I had two days of sleepless nights on the train. On the Wolverine, one of the doors connecting to another car became stuck open and you could hear the outside of the train during long stretches of the journey. That was kinda scary. Other than that I had a very enjoyable journey and Id do it again except I would probably either get a sleeper or I would fly to the particular portion I wanted to see and take that portion. I am particularly interested in the California Zepher and the Empire Builder.

So there ya go Ive written a book hope it wasnt too long.


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## SarahZ (May 1, 2014)

There are some decent areas of Detroit. I'd recommend going during the day, perhaps on a weekend.

We like to go to Greektown, where you can find lots of ethnic restaurants and the casino. You'll see a lot of tourists there and on the Riverwalk, which is several blocks away, along the Detroit River. The Renaissance Center (RenCen) sits on the river, and you can walk to it along the Riverwalk. Sometimes there are vendors and musicians. You can see Windsor and the Ambassador Bridge.

We also like going to Lafayette for coneys. They're next door to American Coney, and they are rivals, built by the same family if I remember correctly. You should sample both and decide who you love more. We prefer Lafayette, both for the coneys and the ambiance (it's loud, it's fast, it's communal seating, and they haven't renovated since the 60s - think turquoise wall tile). I love watching them carry eight plates along one arm; I always wonder how many they've dropped.

The Fox Theatre and State Theatre are good for shows. They're nearby, on Woodward.

Give the People Mover a try if you want to see Cobo Hall and some of the old (abandoned) hotels and department stores. I think it might still be 25 cents to ride it. My uncle calls it the Mugger Mover, but I've been on it with friends and it's not so bad if you know when to go. It's actually pretty empty most of the time. We're usually the only ones on it. You can take the People Mover from Greektown to the Riverwalk (get off at the RenCen). If you get off at Grand Circus Park, you'll be near the Fox and State. The Detroit Opera House is near there too.

Were you on the Wolverine last night? You might have been in my car! The door kept getting stuck every time people walked to/from the cafe car, which was one car ahead of ours. We got off in Kalamazoo, though, so we wouldn't have been able to see anyone get arrested. Boo.


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## brentrain17 (May 1, 2014)

Thanks for the GREAT trip report. Never thought of Detroit as a city to visit, will give that more thought now. Thanks again for all the great information, sounds like you enjoyed yourself! Cheers!


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## Bob Dylan (May 1, 2014)

Glad you enjoyed your trip and a Sleeper is definitly the way to Roll!

Michigan is very Pretty (when its not Winter)taking the Early Wolverine from Detroit to Chicago will allow you to see more in Daylight and Detroit is a Very Interesting and Sad City, a perfect example of neglect by dishonest Politicians and flight to the suburbs!

The Blue water and Pere Marquette are also good Trains In the Summer! LOL


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## CaliforniaMom (May 1, 2014)

Great report, very interesting perspective and thoughts as you roamed across the U.S.!


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## Green Maned Lion (May 1, 2014)

You can visit Detroit. It helps to have a bullet proof ZIL (a Benz isn't good enough) and an escort.


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## the_traveler (May 1, 2014)

You can certainly depart from Birmingham. Just purchase your ticket over the phone or online, and it will be an e-ticket. Just remember to say/chose "Birmingham, MI" and not "Birmingham, AL" - Amtrak serves both!


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## oregon pioneer (May 1, 2014)

So nice to hear your report, you have a wonderful outlook on life, and it's obvious you aren't afraid of new experiences.


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## Michigan Mom (May 1, 2014)

Thanks for posting your trip report, very enjoyable read. The Southwest Chief from the West Coast to Chicago then Michigan is undeniably a very interesting journey and one of life's experiences in this land, that I think should not be missed. Then again we should all experience all LD trains at least once.


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## Dan O (May 1, 2014)

Nice report. Thanks so much.

Dan


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## Notelvis (May 2, 2014)

Thanks for your trip report. I'm glad that you enjoyed the adventure of it so much!

My first overnight train ride was nearly 40 years ago (Silver Star from Hamlet, NC to DeLand,FL) and I still feel that same sense of adventure every time I step on board a train!


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## LarryUSA (May 2, 2014)

Thanks everyone.

@SarahZ, dont think we were on the same train, I arrived late Saturday night. But it sounds like we were indeed on the same physical train, lol. They really need to get that fixed.

@brentrain17, Well I honestly cant recommend or not recommend Detroit city as a destination yet as Ive only passed through at night. I can say I was pleasantly surprised at the suburbs given the media's negative portrayal of the entire Motor City metro as a MadMax style wasteland. Id say the northern suburbs are on par with any suburb of Chicago at the very least and in terms of cleanliness and style make the west side of LA look kinda rundown in comparison, Beverly Hills/Bel Air excepte, lol. Id compare this area to Irvine in Orange County, CA, not in terms of temp or climate though lol. I CAN recommend Chicago however just wow.

@the_traveler, my question would be in LA my e-mail e-ticket was swapped for an actual boarding pass at Union Station. In Kansas City, the conductor was telling these ladies they couldnt board without one. How would this work at an unmanned stop such as Birmingham?

Thanks again everyone! Now Im off on a quest for good Tex-Mex ingredients at Meijer. Im finding it hard to find stuff here. If I cant find it, I may just have to get on the Southwest Chief again and head to Albuquerque lol.


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## oregon pioneer (May 2, 2014)

I board at an ustaffed stop, and I can tell you that I always board with the e-ticket or paper tickets (only used if a leg of my trip does not have e-ticket scanning capabilities). No boarding pass is necessary or available at my remote, rural stop.

They seem to reserve boarding passes for stations with a lot of activity, I guess it just makes it easier for the conductor to have your ticket already pulled.


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## SarahZ (May 2, 2014)

Larry, there are some rich suburbs. Check out Grosse Pointe and St. Clair Shores if you get a chance. 

It is very hard to find good, southwestern ingredients in our stores. I always have to stock up when we go to ABQ every year. You can also order some things online, such as green chile and (good) chile powder.


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## CaliforniaMom (May 2, 2014)

SarahZ said:


> Larry, there are some rich suburbs. Check out Grosse Pointe and St. Clair Shores if you get a chance.
> 
> It is very hard to find good, southwestern ingredients in our stores. I always have to stock up when we go to ABQ every year. You can also order some things online, such as green chile and (good) chile powder.


Grosse Pointe Blank was an awesome movie. Lots of fancy-schmancy homes in there!


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