# Journey around America Part I ~ Chicago to LA



## v v (Apr 3, 2015)

Back in Europe for more than a week now and time to write about our recent experiences and travels around America, mainly with Amtrak. I don't have the writing ability and flair of others who write their travelogues here, so will try to give my impressions in another form, here goes.

Before arriving in Chicago this February we had used a total of 3 sleeper trains. #1 from Marseilles to Calais, a slow French night train. This was our introduction of going to sleep in one place and waking in another, magical. #2 from Paris to Madrid. One of the last of the super 1st class+ train journey run in partnership between Spanish and French rail, it was cancelled a few weeks after we travelled (don't believe it was our fault). Eating an evening meal and breakfast the following morning in a very nice dining car while the world went past our window, can't beat it. #3 The Ghan from Adelaide to Darwin, a real long distance train of 2 1/2 days, time for a small community to form. First time where we went to sleep, woke up 8 hours later and felt we were in the same place although the reality was 800 kms further down the tracks. The realisation that some countries are vast and the longer you are on a train the more attached you become to just being there.

Although we have visited the US on 6 or 7 previous occasions this was to be our first ever Amtrak train experiences. We chose the California Zephyr west bound to start as we really like Chicago, and the CZ for all the obvious reasons. We particularly wanted to travel west in winter, what a good choice. That took us to San Francisco, a city we had never visited, then onto San Luis Obispo via bus, San Joachin and bus, then onto LA with the Pacific Surfliner.

All these journeys have been written about on this forum many times so wont describe the physical journey hardly at all. What did affect us greatly was the people we met along the way and the various reasons for travelling by LD train, so this is a _personal_ view of this part of our travels around America by public transport. 

On the 24th February arrived into O'Hare from London with the temperatures very low, some pockets of snow downtown. It's our second visit to Chicago and we were pleased to return, our last visit had been mid-summer with great humidity, we were looking for the complete opposite and got it. We walked for a few hours around the State Street area and were taken with how people just get on with their lives even though it was so cold. Spoke to a young black man working in a fast food outlet, he explained how he had got his job, that he thought it was a very good job and how difficult it was to get a regular job for someone his age. He impressed us with his attitude and his happy nature, good start to meeting people.

Next morning round to Union Station to leave our checked and on-board luggage in the lounge, quick look around the station (Great Hall was taken over by a corporate event) and across to Lou Mitchells for breakfast as recommended by many here and it didn't disappoint. Our server was Beverly, boy did she have a talent for making people feel at ease. All round top experience.

A quick shop for a few snacks to take on board (we weren't going to need lunch after Lou Mitchells) and back to the Union Station Lounge. Very surprised by how full the lounge was but it later dawned on me that so may LD trains leave from Chicago.

Looked around the lounge and saw it was mainly elderly people, no problem as we are in our 60's but do like speaking with younger people too. Had mixed feelings anticipating the 'Kindergarten Walk' , have never wanted to be organised by someone else so I busied myself with making sure I had the camera ready to photo this epic event to take my mind off of it. It was all people say and more. Did talk to Amtrak staff about it, some smiled and some looked confused or even a little offended.

Seeing our first Amtrak LD train close up was exciting, so much larger than European trains and larger than The Ghan too. Left to our own devices once on board with excitement being the overwhelming emotion.

The slow ride out of Chicago was interesting to the first time rider, we find many regular day to day situations interesting wherever we are anyway. The car attendant was pleasant but didn't have a lot of go in him, we found out he was waiting for retirement and think maybe just going through the motions or even just having an off trip.

That evening we were seated at dinner with another pair of Brits, it appears we live parallel lives. They from southern England as are we, they were on the cusp of retiring but still worked hard full time, so are we. They were going through to SF, so were we. They had bought a holiday home in France, so did we. They were going to retire to France, so will we. They live less than a 2 1/2 drive from our French home, we had all chosen the same region. They had travelled the previous day from NYC to Chicago with the Lake Shore Limited, were 6 hours late getting to CHI and couldn't make their CZ connection. They were put up by Amtrak in a 'very nice hotel' and caught the CZ a day late, the one we were on. So the fact that we were seated at the dinner table together was pure chance and a pleasant one it was too. We will be meeting up with this couple again this August as they organise a literary event in France and we are invited, thank you Amtrak.

There had been snow storms around the end of February all around the US northern and central mid west. We were so lucky as the snow was pristine as we left Denver and continued snowing lightly for most of that day. it was a picture perfect setting for CZ journey over the Rockies. What surprised us was how it all disappeared as we descended down the west side and largely also through the Sierra Nevadas.

We continued to meet many interesting and lovely people in the dining car and enjoyed the random nature of it, that then led on to meeting up again in the sightseeing lounge. There was Ruth from Taiwan who became our travelling companion for another week, a lovely man who lived near to Indianapolis who was making a sad but eventually enlightening journey, a couple from Chesapeake, she an economics professor, he an art teacher who were great conversationalists with wicked sense of humour but very kindly too, then there was a large man with a small dog, the dog injured it's foot on board so was made such a fuss of for the whole journey, a very friendly and interesting pair they were, plus many more. I asked a lady who lives on a cattle farm how could she could see so quickly whether a deer was male or female, me thinking she had superb eyesight being able to spot what was between their rear legs at a distance and at speed, she replied with cutting disdain "the large antlers!" and then laughed so hard the whole car joined in, there were many more experiences.

We along with other first time Amtrak riders arrived at Emeryville completely enamoured with Amtrak LD sleeper train travel, it's got the lot. Plain riding a train, seeing the world pass by your window, eating on the move with good company, meeting people from all over with a story to tell _and the time to tell it_, and the best for us, a sense of community for a fleeting moment.



San Francisco was new to us as was California. What to say except in our eyes SF is a special place for all good reasons and if I had to pick one word to describe it above all others it would be 'friendly'. We have a friend living there who took us out for dinner across the Golden Gate Bridge, returning to SF we came down a hill and saw San Francisco in all it's glory by night, the Bay Bridge is spectacular all lit up. 

Our new companion Ruth arranged a special meal for us. As a Chinese speaker she had checked out where the best place in ChinaTown to eat and we had a Chinese meal the like of which we have never eaten, wonderful. The bus drivers, the poor, the office workers in street, hotel workers and everyone we came into contact with were kind to strangers. That doesn't mean talkative just prepared to help or advise the 3 of us visitors, such a gentle city, we'll be back.



Warning! This Is a Rant!

Made a 2 day excursion by rental car down the coast as far as half way down the Big Sur, then returned to Salinas to visit the NationalSteinbeckCenter, that's where our luck ran out. Early morning walked into the center and told we couldn't enter as it was a school trip day and no visitors outside the school groups were allowed in. I explained that after reading most of Steinbeck's work over 40 years ago I had waited to pay homage and to understand how and why he wrote his books. That his writing had affected my life quite heavily and that we had come from England just to visit. The idiot at the entrance (I am being polite) said that more or less we could have come from Mars but we weren't getting in as rules is rules. In the UK we would call this man a 'Jobsworth', ie _"it's more than my jobs worth..."_ . I just managed to remain civil but it was a big big disappointment to me. There was a younger person with the Pompous ... who explained to him how we could access some of the center, but no it was never going to be. I walked out speechless. Rosie said she would return to the center and explain this was a very very important thing for me and perhaps with a feminine more gentle approach we might be allowed in, but she returned in short order with Mr Pompous barring entry. 

Now before someone explains it's about security for children and insurance and and and, Rosie is a school teacher and we know how it works with modern restaints around children, but this one of life's major disappointments for me. We couldn't return the next day as onward train journeys were booked so had to leave Salinas that day, ah well...



Next day we moved onto San Luis Obispo just the two of us as Ruth was flying to her next destination and we were using the San Joachin in coach. Gave Ruth big hugs as we were going to miss her a lot, although she did threaten to catch up with us when we reached the Kennedy Space Center in Florida. But this lovely lady travelling the world on her own had other things to consider too so maybe not.

On leaving SF we had to use the new temporary bus station at Folsom Street, it was just fine, a little less handy for public transport but that was the only drawback. There was a slightly rowdy man in the bus station but he was pretty harmless, and the staff coped easily with his frustration.

Bussed across to Emeryville, train on time and down the valley to SLO. We'll not to SLO at all but to Hanford, Ca where we were shipped to another bus to make the connection into SLO. SLO is the happiest town in America according to Opra, can't argue with that as it all seemed well to do neat and tidy. I think the large college campus keeps the place from becoming stuffy but it was good to us. Next morning very early the taxi was late, and then later. The streets were traffic-less so it wasn't as though the driver had got caught up in a jam. 25 minutes late and the cab company are now despatching several cabs to pick us up as the Pacific Surfliner doesn't wait for anyone apparently.

The ride down to SLO was interesting as this was where Steinbeck based a few of his novels. The flat central valley is huge and very flat, to my eyes as interesting as almost any other scenery due to the Steinbeck connection. Along the way saw a vehicle scrap yard on the left side, but it also had a number of planes in there too, and rare ones at that! Very odd indeed in the middle of nowhere.

The Surfliner from SLO to LA (coach) was for us the best part of the California coast. We saw plenty of sea life including whales and couldn't believe the size of the Vandenberg Airbase and how close to the cliff edge they had built the track, quite spectacular. Most of this journey was very beautiful in a typically California way, well a Californian way as seen in the movies at least.

Arrived in LA with a 6 hour layover, time to eat at Phillipes (again recommended here and another co-incidence occurred), visit and tour LA City Hall and take a look at the station before heading out on the South West Chief to Kansas City later that evening, but that's for part 2.


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## oregon pioneer (Apr 3, 2015)

Great stuff, I love to hear your experiences with the people! Looking forward to part 2.


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## Bob Dylan (Apr 3, 2015)

Wonderful trip and report, what a good reporter you are!

The self appointed jerk @ the Steinbeck Center is the exception to most friendly California folks as y'all realize! Unfortunately there's one in every crowd as they say!

Really looking forward to the next Chapter of your report!


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## hello (Apr 3, 2015)

I truly enjoyed reading your comments on your journey, thank you. I am sorry that you weren't able to visit the Steinbeck Center ... now you will just need to come back again!


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## Alice (Apr 3, 2015)

Good trip report and glad you enjoyed it. Please write to the Steinbeck Center, they need to hear that a place that advertises they are open every day should have made some kind of accommodation. That really needs to be part of their policy. They cannot call themselves a world-class attraction the way they treated you.


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## Railroad Bill (Apr 4, 2015)

Really enjoyed your trip report and your meetings with so many interesting people.
That, for us, is the most interesting part of riding Amtrak.

So sorry about the Steinbeck experience. As a former teacher and administrator I would have added you to my "chaperone staff" and had you join our tour with the school group  I think you would have found the school staff willing to go along with that idea. 

Can hardly wait for your next report..


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## caravanman (Apr 4, 2015)

Great write up, and I am looking forward to part 2, too!

I met quite a few folk from the Salinas area while staying in the SLO hostel, as well as one AU member, who were "forced" to read Steinbeck at school and were put off his books for life.

I was amused at the child minding contrasts with Europe, recently seeing in Belgrade a long line of young schoolkids on a day trip, supervised by just two adults, one of which was chatting absently on her mobile cell phone...

Funny enough, I recently took a bus pass trip to my nearest town to Nottingham, - Mansfield, which is twinned with Heiligenhaus, and Heiligenhaus is where the Steinbeck family came from... Not a lot of people know that. 

Glad you met so many great people along the way, the kindness of strangers makes the world a warmer place...

Ed


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## v v (Apr 4, 2015)

Evening Ed. It's a pity that anyone is _forced_ to read anything at all but I guess as the events that were fictionalised happening relatively locally on top of having a world famous author born and bred quite close by that it was inevitable that schools in the SLO area would make pupils read Steinbeck.

Maybe they were too young and maybe some of what really happened was too close for comfort? I wasn't forced to read Steinbeck at all just had an opportunity in my early 20's to spend weekday evenings reading so was fortunate to be able to choose to read whatever I wanted, Steinbeck seemed to me to have a message that spread far beyond California.


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## SarahZ (Apr 4, 2015)

That's really too bad about the school group. I've been to plenty of attractions that were full of school groups and have never been denied entry.  I wish they'd given you a clear reason (too close to the fire code limit, not enough staff on-hand, etc).


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## KmH (Apr 4, 2015)

I also enjoyed your trip report.

You have more writing ability and flair than you give yourself credit for.

It's unfortunate you weren't able to visit the Steinbeck Center, but it's an important, though sad part of your story.

I'll be looking to part 2, too.


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## Bob Dylan (Apr 4, 2015)

I was forced to read Shakespeare, Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner, Dickens, Beowulf etc in school! Still like old Bill's stuff, haven't missed the ancient and other English stuff @ all! Smiles

And on field trips, my granddaughters class has to leave all phones, tablets etc. behind, poor deprived kids!


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## FormerOBS (Apr 5, 2015)

Forced to read Steinbeck? Nobody ever had to force me. He's one of the most readable, accessible, and often fun, American authors. For the Steinbeck Center to turn you away is inexcusable. Surely they could have suggested that you wait a while to avoid crowding while the students were there. Then you could have been allowed in. Many of those students probably had little interest in Steinbeck and were there only because they had to be. You, on the other hand, had crossed an ocean and a continent to get there. Unforgivable.

I'm so glad my fellow U.S. citizens made you feel welcome (with a notable exception in Salinas). We're a very strange, disparate tribe, and we have our problems, but there is also a lot of good. I'm glad you were able to see that.

Don't underestimate your ability to tell a good story. It's been a treat to read about your trip. I'm looking forward to more.

Also, I hope you're already making plans for your next visit to see us.

Tom


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## v v (Apr 5, 2015)

Thanks for your comments re the National Steinbeck Center, it was just an unfortunate situation with an automaton of an official. It felt like a big deal at the time but put into perspective it's a disappointment and not life or death.

In another week or two when I can write more dispassionately about the non visit I'll write to the NSC and explain the event as it may help others if this is a regular occurrence. It's important to take a positive out of out of a negative experience and as someone said, it's a great reason if one were needed to return to San Francisco.


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## tp49 (Apr 5, 2015)

caravanman said:


> I met quite a few folk from the Salinas area while staying in the SLO hostel, as well as one AU member, who were "forced" to read Steinbeck at school and were put off his books for life.


I'm pretty sure I'm the mentioned AU member mentioned here and if so guilty as charged.  :hi:



v v said:


> Evening Ed. It's a pity that anyone is _forced_ to read anything at all but I guess as the events that were fictionalised happening relatively locally on top of having a world famous author born and bred quite close by that it was inevitable that schools in the SLO area would make pupils read Steinbeck.
> 
> Maybe they were too young and maybe some of what really happened was too close for comfort? I wasn't forced to read Steinbeck at all just had an opportunity in my early 20's to spend weekday evenings reading so was fortunate to be able to choose to read whatever I wanted, Steinbeck seemed to me to have a message that spread far beyond California.


Speaking only for myself, I was forced to read two Steinbeck novels in high school. I did not grow up anywhere near Salinas, nor California. The story did not resonate with me and as I started reading the second book I felt it was in essence the same as the first with different character names. That's not to say I didn't like all of the books I was forced to read in school I liked a number of them (Hawthorne, Orwell, Victor Hugo, Dickens and Tolstoy just to name a few were authors I enjoyed.) Just didn't like Steinbeck. Different strokes for different folks.

As for the Steinbeck Center did you happen to go on March 2? It appears that from their website they were having a "Young Authors Program" that day and closed for it. I'm guessing that's the reason they didn't grant you access as I would hope if it was just normal school groups they would have allowed you entrance. As others have said gives you reason to come back  .


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## v v (Apr 5, 2015)

Took this in San Francisco on our one day walking the city. This young man had the loudest speakers built into scooter blasting some very attractive Reggae music to the public in general, I did worry for his battery life though.

If you look at the two people standing with him waiting for the 'Cross' signal, their opinion of him sharing his music appears to have mixed feelings. We thought it was wonderful, a free open air concert in downtown San Francisco.


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## v v (Apr 5, 2015)

Of course you are right tp49, we are all different with different perspectives and taste, and so it should be. My personal take too on Steinbeck's Depression era writing is it is a similar theme all the way through, just different characters in similar situations but I think that was the point, the problems he described were the same for many millions.

I have just looked up and seen that they had posted that the center would be closed and yes it was March 2. We were told and saw with our own eyes it was school groups and school children but it could have been for any type of group it doesn't really matter, it's just unfortunate having travelling so far, but then things happen.

Not sure if you have ever visited the National Steinbeck Center but it's quite substantial, and what I couldn't understand at the time and still can't is why they have to close the whole center for any group, it is the National Steinbeck Center.

We were planning this America journey for more than 6 months and I will have looked up the National Steinbeck Center website up to 6 months before, all I read at that time was it was closed 3 days each year for national holidays and none were on March 2. I really don't want to make a big deal about this as if we had altered just one aspect of our journey we may have arrived on the 1st or 3rd of March, it was just fate or luck call it what you will.


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## tp49 (Apr 5, 2015)

I definitely agree with you that it's unfortunate and also frustrating and disappointing. I've had those experiences as a traveler too both here and in other parts of the world. Having only been to Salinas twice and both on Ambus rides from the Bay Area to Santa Barbara I haven't been to the Steinbeck Center but I've been to Monterey which is close and enjoy the coastal area greatly.

I'm enjoying your perspective as a tourist here. Looking forward to the next portion.


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## FormerOBS (Apr 5, 2015)

You checked their web site in advance and saw that the place was closed 3 days, none of which were March 2. I repeat, INEXCUSABLE>

Tom


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## Mystic River Dragon (Apr 6, 2015)

v v --You have a delightful and engaging writing style--everyone's style is different, which is one reason these travelogues are so much fun to read.

I enjoyed Part 1 very much (so much so that I extended my lunchtime to read it instead of getting back to my work project!) and am looking forward to Part 2.


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## v v (Apr 6, 2015)

Photos for the post above ​​​#1 The lake near to Navy Pier Chicago, so cold!

#2 At last we're off

#3 The lounge quite full at Union Station

#4 The infamous 'Kindergarten Walk'

#5 Still snowing west of Denver, plus very dirty windows

#6 Ah, this is Mr v v. I was so taken with the female conductor's hat (very pleasant lady too) that I asked if I could photo her. She didn't think that was a good idea but did suggest she would photo me wearing it. I don't particularly like being in front of a camera but the chance to wear a Conductors hat was over powering.

#7 Almost black and white

#8 Big man, little dog with a damaged paw. Yes that is a plastic bag just to keep it clean when she got off the train at smoke stops

#9 Amazing rock formations in Utah I think

#10 Ditto, felt like the Grand Canyon

#11 Rosie (on right) who is Mrs v v with Ruth our new travelling companion plus of course the little patient

#12 Does advertising get any better than this?

#13 At the top of the Big Sur

#14 How do they make the fields so green, it's not Ireland

#15 Our early morning train from SLO, the Pacific Surfliner. What a good name.

#16 California-on Sea

#17 Does farming get any prettier than this?

#18 The Ventura Highway I believe. It completely dispels all romantic notions

#19 Arrived at LA and this is the sight out front of the Union Station, now off to Phillipes


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## Bob Dylan (Apr 6, 2015)

Really nice pics, thanks for sharing!

And you look like a 30 year Amtrak hand in the Conductor hat!!


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## v v (Apr 7, 2015)

Jim, is that a 30 year old Amtrak hand or a time worn Amtrak hand? Both are a compliment though!


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## caravanman (Apr 7, 2015)

Hi...

Mr. tp49, it was good to meet you at the "gathering", but you were not the AU member that I had in mind. My lips are sealed. 

Great pictures, and a great attitude Mr. v.v. Looking forward to part 2.

Any plans to continue your adventures now you are back in Blighty, or is it now work again for a while?

Cheers,

Ed


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## v v (Apr 7, 2015)

Hello Ed

We're in France at the moment, we work here about 6 months each year.

We are starting to think of an LD rail trip in Europe in October, trains one way and fly back, but we'll see. Yes we are dreaming of longer trips too, to India a place you know and Rosie is crazy keen to go to, and a much longer trip around the world without using a plane, but that really is a dream for the distant future.

We're really lucky as we have a small business where we make deliveries personally, so next week we drive through the southern French Alps to Imperia in Italy for a delivery and call in on American friends in the Pyrenees on the way back. A month later we are off to Poland to make a delivery with a final destination of the Ukraine. They can't get goods across most borders now but there is some stuff going into and out of Poland that will reach Ukraine, so we drive from central France through Germany to Poland and back again.

In 2 months we are due back in the UK then off to Ireland for 10 days, this is a family visit with just a little business. As I said we are very lucky indeed to be able to work and travel at the same time.

As you hinted we have to get down to serious hard work at the moment and have to work 12 hour days 7 days a week between our travels, but it's worth it to be able to travel.

What plans do you have then Ed, or is it still decide the week before? Rosie and I enjoy your trip reports a lot, and did your friend's trip to Thailand too, nothing like reading real accounts about 'other' places and situations if you can't be on the road yourself.

I used to do 'non planning' when travelling alone but sometimes got stuck in odd situations. Nothing terrible in that as some real adventures occurred and adventures do keep you on your toes, but now travelling with Rosie I have to be a little more cautious and her threshold for excitement isn't at the same level as mine. Still, our plans now are to design a skeleton of an itinerary with gaps between the certain set points. The bits between the pre booked stuff we just follow our noses as you do. The USA trip had more bookings for obvious reasons than we would usually make, but in the main it worked for us with the exception of Salinas, can't win them all.

Thanks for the encouragement


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## Bob Dylan (Apr 7, 2015)

VV: Lucky y'all, we're envious! Please continue share your adventures with us as ya'll travel around the world, as you said it's the next best thing to being there!


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## NETrainfan (Oct 19, 2015)

Hi- So enjoyed your trip descriptions and so glad you like Steinbeck. It is quite interesting to get a perspective

from our neighbors across the pond. Great photos.

Am writing this late, as I looked at your report after your response to my recent Charleston question.


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## Asher (Oct 29, 2015)

I'm impressed by your impressions Thanks for sharing.


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