# Spring 2009 USA Rail Tour -- Part I



## p&sr (May 26, 2009)

My Spring 2009 USA Rail Tour began on Thursday, May 7th. My wonderful travel-partner Moonlight Express dropped me off to catch the first morning Amtrak Bus from the North-Bay to our Home Station of Martinez, California. The idea was to walk on a sandy beach and touch the salt-water of both the Pacific and the Atlantic Oceans, in view of open horizons out to Sea. Day 1 achieved the first goal during my "Bay Area Rail Romp". The Bus arrived in Martinez in plenty of time for the 8:00 AM Train to San Jose... a connection that usually works but is too tight to be "guaranteed". As it happened, both that train and the Southbound Coast Starlight were delayed by an open drawbridge across Carquinez Straits, and both trains arrived together at 8:11. The Starlight came in first, but stopped just short of the platforms, waiting there until the Capitol Corridor Train had arrived and departed.

I was ticketed through Oakland-Jack London, plus tickets both ways between there and San Jose. I expected to use only one of those tickets, using CalTrain to complete the loop around San Francisco Bay, but the direction of the loop would depend on which Train I caught out of Martinez. Since the first Train continued all the way to San Jose, I stayed on board and used that ticket for the rest of the journey. At San Jose I bought a CalTrain Ticket to San Francisco. I watched the Starlight pull in about 10:35 AM, then boarded CalTrain for the 10:40 departure. Plenty of good familiar scenery all morning around the Bay Area.

In San Francisco I boarded the 12:23 PM N-Judah Streetcar, riding all the way to Ocean Beach. I walked across Great Ocean Highway and climbed over the Dunes, and down the Beach to the Ocean, touching and tasting the Salt Water in view of Open Horizons. Returning on the N-Judah (same trainset), I rode to the Van Ness Station, then transferred to the F-Wharves Heritage Streetcar down Market Street and along the Embarcadero to Jones St. at Fisherman's Wharf. At Tarantino's Restaurant (sidewalk service) there, I enjoyed Clam Chowder in a Sourdough Bowl. Walking around the area, Tourist Life is absolutely bustling on this Spring Thursday. I caught the 3:45 PM Ferry from Pier 41 to Oakland-Jack London, and walked along the Waterfront there to the Amtrak Station.

I rode the 5:50 PM run of the San Joaquin Train to Bakersfield, arriving about Midnight. There were great views until after Sunset. I was sorry to learn that the California Gourmet Cuisine on those trains has been discontinued. For dinner I reverted to my usual Hot Dog and Pepsi, supplemented with Korean hot-pepper-flavoured Ramen Soup to assure a balanced diet, with a Corona for dessert.

Day 2 began at Midnight with transfer to the Amtrak Bus to Los Angeles and San Diego. The idea was to arrive there well-rested at daybreak. It didn't quite work out that way, as the bus was extremely bumpy and noisy (loud shrieking sqeaks about three times per second on an irregular rhythm, and worse if we hit a bump. And the Freeways seemed to be laced with Potholes more than ever before!)

We arrived ahead of schedule at 5:10 AM. I walked down to the waterfront (NOT recommending this at any such hour!) looking for the Commuter Ferry to Coronado Island, and hoping to sail on the 5:40 AM run. Unfortunately, all the ferries were cancelled that morning because of a racing event on the Bay. So instead I caught the Light-Rail (Blue Line, southbound) from the Santa Fe Depot. I got off for Breakfast in Chula Vista (at the "Bayfront and E-Street" stop). Just across the shopping mall and past the Best Western Motel, I discovered Aunt Emma's Pancake House... Great Food and warm, friendly service to regulars and newcomers alike! This place is **Highly Recommended** for a convenient and tasty meal close to the Rails in the San Diego area.

I continued South to the Border at San Ysidro, then walked around the area for a while. I did not wish to cross the Border with all my Luggage, nor did I wish to pay Greyhound to hold it for me (as on a previous trip). In the Plaza on the West Side of Hwy 5, there is a large Map set into the Sidewalk showing all of the historical California Missions, from Cabo San Lucas all the way through the town of Sonoma in my home county... with No Border between Alta and Baja California, just one continuous region.

Returning to the Trolley, I headed North at 7:38 AM, transferring at 12th and Imperial to the Orange Line (to Gastown and the Convention Center, then American Plaza) to complete the Downtown Loop. I left town on the 9:30 AM Surfliner, with great views along the Coast. At Redondo Junction I saw the famous Santa Fe Steam Locomotive in the Yards. On arrival at LAX, I walked to Philippe's for a double-dipped Roast Beef Sandwich and Lemonade. Returning through Olvera Street, I then toured Union Station until boarding the Sunset Limited at 2:10 PM for our 2:30 PM departure. The consist was 2 engines, baggage car, 2 sleepers to NOL, diner, lounge, 2 coaches to NOL, 1 coach to CHI, and 1 sleeper to CHI. As always, I was travelling "coach".

The route of the Sunset was interesting, going right past the San Gabriel Mission, and through the UP Yards in Colton. Immediately past Loma Linda Medical Center we left the built-up urban area and began to climb out of the Los Angeles Basin through San Timoteo Canyon. There were extensive Orange Groves, also wild Pepper Trees, and a herd of Longhorn Cattle. At the Pass (by Banning and Beaumont) we saw the new Morongo Indian Casino, and extensive farms of Windmills. There were Magnificent views of 10,834-ft Mount San Jacinto, with its rugged cliffs, canyons, forests, and snowy summit. ( http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/comm...o_Peak_0675.jpg ) At Palm Springs Station I stepped out for "fresh air"... 99 degrees, a strong breeze, and very dry. Beginning at Indio there were large orchards of Date Palms, then rugged Desert Mountains. We saw the Salton Sea extending to the horizon. For a long while we followed the vast Algodones Sand Dunes, then finally crossed the Colorado River into Arizona at Yuma... right by the old Territorial Prison.

Sunset came while we were paused at Yuma. Pulling out from town, there was a bright orange Full Moon rising behind the rugged desert Mountains, then darkness until daybreak.

Day 3 began with views of Venus and Jupiter brilliant in the pre-dawn sky. At 6:05 we passed through Lordsburg, New Mexico. We continued south-east to the Rio Grande Valley and the Mexican Border. We crossed the River on a high bridge into El Paso. There was time to visit the Station there, a fine historic building with a nice Model Train exhibit running for National Train Day. We passed through downtown in a Trench, then passed through farmland and smaller towns heading South along the Rio Grande. Eventually we turned east into the Desert.

Meals on-board were my usual fare... Hot Dog and Pepsi for Breakfast and again for Lunch, Chicken in the Diner for Dinner. I was sorry to learn that the snack cars no longer carry "Bratwurst" as a variation on the hot-dog theme. We passed through several interesting towns (including Alpine and Marfa, in very remote country) and eventually crossed the Pecos River High Bridge over an arm of the Amistad Reservoir. Then we crossed the main section of the Reservoir (with lots of boating activity), and stopped at Del Rio on a hot, humid evening. Heading east from there, it was flat country with increasingly thick growth of Mesquite and other green scrub. There was a dramatic Moonrise at 9:20, and just after 9:35 we pulled in to San Antonio, where we would stay until 1:00 AM.

We stopped next to the "Sunset Station" Restaurant in the former Depot. I walked to the head of the Train, past a Steam Locomotive on display, to Commerce St, then left (west) under the Freeway to the Riverwalk. Being a Saturday Night, the place was absolutely bustling. There were boat rides available, and lots of restaurants and night-clubs and live music, some of it very good, and several large resort Hotels. There were bridges and fountains and several different branches of the River to follow. I followed a side stream through the Lobby of the Hyatt Hotel, and emerged directly across the street from the Alamo! On return, I took the Hotel's Glass Elevators to the top of the Atrium... looking 12 stories straight down to River Level!

I returned to the Station at 11:30 PM, to see my train backing into the Station. It had evidently pulled out briefly to allow passengers access to the Texas Eagle which had just pulled in from Chicago. Exploring the area near the Station (including the Alamo-dome Sports Stadium, and the illuminated Tower of the Americas just beyond the Freeway), I re-boarded at Midnight to await our 1:00 AM departure. We pulled out as scheduled, leaving behind our two cars bound for Chicago via Dallas. I slept poorly as the night was hot and sticky even on board. Somehow I broke out with six very itchy spider bites (on right arm, right flank, and right foot) which added to the general misery.

Day 4: We arrived at Houston ahead of schedule, 5:12 AM, allowing an hour of deep sleep until our departure at 6:15 AM. We were now in "Bayou Country", flat forested land with lots of still waterways. There were fields of Rice, and several long drawbridges. At Beaumont, I stepped out to visit the famous slab-instead-of-a-station. Crossing the Sabine River, we entered Louisiana and the Deep South. There were dense cypress swamps alternating with more open areas, including fields of Sugar Cane. Several of the towns had their traditional Above-Ground Cemeteries. There was evidence of Crawdad Farming in some of the wetland areas, with little tops of cages projecting regularly from the shallow water. There were lots of fine southern-style homes. At the Atchafalaya River, we came to the Intra-Coastal Waterway and an area with lots of ship-building and marine-focussed heavy industry.

Finally we came to the Mississippi River, and crossed it on the dramatic Huey Long Bridge, with great views of the waterfront and the City of New Orleans. We backed into the Station, and I walked several blocks to my Hotel... the Lafayette, on Lafayette Square. The hotel is right on the St. Charles Streetcar Line, which I rode out through the Garden District to the end of the line, and back again... very scenic! There are fine Southern homes in many different styles, and the trees are laced with beaded necklaces tossed from the recent Mardi Gras parades. On the way back, we passed a garden wedding party at a historic mansion. I transferred to the Canal Street Streetcar, riding that one to the end of the line at "Cemeteries", then back to the River, transferring to the Riverside Streetcar and taking that one to the end of the line at "French Market". This is at the far end of the historic French Quarter.

I returned through the French Quarter on foot, through Jackson Square and past the Saint King Louis Basilica Cathedral. There were many scenic streets with their classic wrought-iron balconies and outdoor cafes. I stopped for Dinner at "The Gumbo Shop", enjoying the "Complete Creole Dinner" in their back-courtyard patio. Dinner included Seafood Okra Gumbo, Crawfish Etoufee (like a thick stew), Macque Choux Corn (seasoned with tomatoes, peppers, and onions), a long loaf of fresh French Bread with Butter, and Hot Bread Pudding with whiskey sauce for dessert.

Then I rode the free Ferry across the River to Algiers and back, with wonderful views of city lights by evening, and lots of shipping traffic. I returned up Canal Street and back to my hotel on foot.

Day 5 began at 5:00 AM. The Hotel's Wake-Up Call never arrived, but my Travel Alarm functioned correctly. By 6:00 AM I was on my way to Amtrak by Taxi (to avoid the dark and deserted streets at that early hour). The Crescent departed on-time shortly after 7:00 AM, and gave a colorful tour of the City on its way out of town. We passed the extensive above-ground Cemeteries (in Metairie) at the end of Canal Street, followed the shore of Lake Pontchartrain (which extends to the horizon), crossed a large canal by drawbridge, and saw extensive storm damage from Katrina 2005. Then we entered a swampland wilderness southeast of town.

We crossed a long causeway and saw many small fishing boats busy there in the choppy water. Just past the town of Slidell, there was another large swamp area by the Pearl River and the Mississippi State Line. Across the State of Mississippi, there was rain and low clouds. The land was flat and forested, with extensive swamps, crossing a couple of large waterways (the Tombigbee and the Black Warrior River). I saw the ancient Indian Mounds at Moundville, Alabama. We passed the southbound Crescent just outside Tuscaloosa (1:15 PM). At Birmingham I saw the famous Vulcan Statue atop Red Mountain.

Consist of the Crescent was 2 engines, baggage car, 4 coaches (2 held empty until Atlanta), cafe car, dining car, and 2 sleepers. At Birmingham, the hills represent the southern extreme of the Appalachian Mountains. We passed an ancient (19th century) Blast Furnace, and saw our first Coal Trains. I saw some Buffalo at the Anniston Army Depot. Just before the Georgia State Line we entered a scenic National Forest. Approaching Atlanta, we saw the bold skyline. We had 200 people boarding there, and spent half an hour in the Station. Leaving town, we saw the MARTA heavy-rail transit line and followed a train there briefly. We returned to forested country at nightfall. Dinner on the Train was a regional specialty of Jambalaya, which is rice with Cajun sausage and a thick dark spicy sauce... Excellent! Served with roll and salad and coffee as usual, with vanilla ice cream for dessert.

Day 6 began on the Train with a river-crossing at 5:00 AM near Danville, Virginia. Then at daybreak we crossed the James River with its deep, forested valley. There were stately farms and country homes, and lots of pretty streams flowing through the forests. We were in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains, with the mountains of Shenandoah National Park visible in the distance. The town of Manasses was colorful, with an artsy focus. We crossed the famous creek there called "Bull Run". Passing through Alexandria, we crossed the Potomac into Washington DC, with great views of the Washington and Jefferson Monuments, the Smithsonian Castle, and the Dome of the Capitol. We arrived at 9:50 AM, 21 minutes early.

While waiting for my next train, I took a walk around the Capitol and past the Supreme Court and the Library of Congress. I visited the beautiful National Conservatory (on the Mall at the foot of the Capitol), with its palms and ferns and orchids and cactus. The morning was fresh, cool, and sunny. From the Capitol, standing on the spot where our President was inaugurated, I could see the Lincoln Monument, and lots of Museums and historic buildings. By Union Station and the Columbus Monument, there were the flags of the 50 states (in order of their admission)... also five other flags: Puerto Rico, and (presumably) the Virgin Islands, Guam, Northern Marianas, and American Samoa. Union Station itself was busy, with lots of dignitaries and diplomats and generals and congressmen hurrying around. Returning there at Noon, I had lunch in the Food Court, at the "Great Steak and Potato Co." for a Pastrami Philly Sandwich.

My Train 95, the Southbound Regional to Virginia, was delayed and departed at 3:12 PM. We passed the Washington Marina, the Reagan National Airport, the Fredricksburg National Battlefield Park, and the Stonewall Jackson Shrine, as well as extensive wetlands along the Potomac and in the forests of Virginia. I saw three beaver lodges. Dinner on the Train was the same as breakfast... Hot Dog and Pepsi. In the classic southern College Town of Ashland, we ran right down the main street. In Richmond, we crept slowly through the Rail Yards and industrial districts, saw the former Broad St Station (now the Science Museum) and stopped (upstairs) at the historic Main Street Station. The tracks are elevated through the downtown, and never drop to River Level. I saw the near-by spot where three historically distinct Rail Roads all cross at one point (on three different levels). There were good but brief views of the James River, with its characteristic little islands covered with scrubby trees.

On through the Tidelands District... lots of swamps and ponds, some with water lilies. In historic Williamsburg we passed the William and Mary College, then Busch Gardens with its roller coasters. We came in to Newport News at 7:40 PM, only ten minutes behind schedule. I took the 8:00 PM Bus to Virginia Beach (via Portsmouth and Norfolk, with lots of shipyards and port activities, finally arriving at 9:30 PM right behind my Hotel... the "19 Atlantic", conveniently located at 19th and Atlantic. The room was small but adequate. Right across the street there was a connecting passage between hotels that led to the Boardwalk, in the midst of several miles of built-up Beach Resorts. The sand was fine, clean, and cool. The surf, though modest by Pacific standards, was clearly oceanic, and the horizon was clear. I touched the water and waded in... very soothing on tired feet! Mission Accomplished for Part I of the Rail Tour... reaching both Oceans on sandy beaches with open horizons. Then back to the Hotel to prepare for my early morning departure.


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## JayPea (May 26, 2009)

Great report! I'm looking forward to my Slidell Loophole trip, booked just before the loophole closed. Your report on the New Orleans-Washington Crescent segment was of particular interest.


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## GoldenSpike (May 28, 2009)

JayPea said:


> Great report! I'm looking forward to my Slidell Loophole trip, booked just before the loophole closed. Your report on the New Orleans-Washington Crescent segment was of particular interest.


Loophole closed? Is there something I missed?


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## JayPea (May 28, 2009)

Supposedly one can't book SDL-LAX the long way (SDL-WAS-CHI-PDX-LAX) any more. When trying it through Amtrak's reservation system, the SDL-WAS-CHI part works but from there instead of the Empire Builder/Coast Starlight to LA it only gives the option of the Southwest Chief to LA. Which still is a good trip.


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## GoldenSpike (May 29, 2009)

JayPea said:


> Supposedly one can't book SDL-LAX the long way (SDL-WAS-CHI-PDX-LAX) any more. When trying it through Amtrak's reservation system, the SDL-WAS-CHI part works but from there instead of the Empire Builder/Coast Starlight to LA it only gives the option of the Southwest Chief to LA. Which still is a good trip.


Thanks


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