# Cross Country Train Trip, Summer 2013



## CHamilton (Jun 23, 2013)

Photos here.

*Empire Builder, SEA-MSP*

On Thursday afternoon, 6/20, I boarded the eastbound Empire Builder (EB EB?) for the first leg of a long-anticipated (and well-deserved, if I may say so) vacation. Boarded roomette 11 of sleeper Kentucky, the first Superliner II I've seen on the EB in quite a while. It had had basic renovations done, including wood paneling, new compartment curtains, and such, but still had the old-style bathrooms.

Left Seattle on time. Lost some time in several places along the way, but got to MSP about 1:35 late. By recent EB standards, not too bad, and gave me enough time to have a leisurely breakfast.

Had my first encounter with the new dining car menu, and was mostly favorably impressed. A couple of the entrees, like the turkey shank, looked rather similar to some items that I've had on the PPC in recent months. The mahi-mahi was quite nice. The rice was a bit bland to my taste, and the salads and veggies are unchanged, alas. The gemelli pasta was well-prepared, but not really to my taste. It was evident that we had a chef who knew what they were doing -- the french toast was as good as I've ever had it on Amtrak. Yes, the food is generally the same, but good preparation makes a big difference.

But the desserts are disappointing. Everything is served in plastic cups. And while the ones I had tasted pretty good, the cheesecake and some of the other desserts are very much a step down.

As always, had good conversations with my meal companions. I had a nice breakfast with the Trails and Rails folks, who were interesting to talk to. Their presentations were read directly from a script, which was sort of disappointing.

The dining car personnel were very good; unfortunately, I didn't catch their names, although I recognized them. SCA Thuy ("Twee") was reasonably good and friendly, although she had an unfortunate tendency to make announcements telling everyone how busy she was.

*MSP*

In eastern ND, we could look ahead from the train and see a bunch of large and impressive thunderheads. As it turns out, they caused large storms that caused major power outages in much of Minnesota. The friends in St. Paul (well, technically Lauderdale) that I was staying with did not lose power, but a lot of other people did, and there were huge trees down in just about every block. Their cable and internet was down for almost 48 hours, and just recently came back on. Luckily, my mobile hotspot was still working.

We had some good food, and had a nice party where I saw some friends I hadn't seen in a long while. We also spent an hour or so walking around the newly-restored St. Paul Union Depot, which will definitely be a nice place to catch a train once Amtrak moves in. We also checked out the light rail and commuter rail trains, although we didn't have time to ride them. MSP has changed a lot since I lived here in the late 1970s, but many of the old landmarks have been preserved well.

Tomorrow: on to Chicago.


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## Bob Dylan (Jun 23, 2013)

:hi: Thanks for the Report Charlie, sounds like you Lucked out on the EB EB! :giggle: ! As to the New Menu, guess it's True, it will still depend on the Chef Aboard! I Love Cheesecake, Brownies and Ice Cream,(I still think the Bourbon Pecan Pie from the Crescent and CONO was Amtraks Best Desert! It was Made in CHI!!! ^_^ )I haven't gotten to try the New ones yet, seems there's Mixed Reviews so far! Look forward to the Future Episodes!


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## oregon pioneer (Jun 23, 2013)

Thanks for the trip report (and the current status of the St Paul Union Depot). I loved the old decadent desserts. Tiramisu cake was my very favorite, and key lime cheescake probably second. I guess they've opted for ease of transport and service over quality, and I'll have to be satisfied with what I get. It's not like I need the extra calories, ha, ha, and the view improves everything!


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## the_traveler (Jun 23, 2013)

Summer didn't begin until after you boarded, so that was a spring trip. Now you have to do it all over again!


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## MrEd (Jun 24, 2013)

thanks for the trip report.


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## JayPea (Jun 24, 2013)

Great report so far, Charlie. But if you didn't want to get together with me while I'm in Seattle this week and this weekend, all you had to do was say so. You didn't need to go to the trouble of going on a long cross-country trip just to avoid me.  :lol:


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## CHamilton (Jun 24, 2013)

Jeez, Jeff, didn't think you'd catch on!


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## Ryan (Jun 24, 2013)

Excellent report, looking forward to seeing the rest of this mega trip play out.

If you're up for a beer while you're in BAL/WAS, the first round's on me.


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## JayPea (Jun 24, 2013)

Charlie, I'm not quite as dumb as I look. :lol:


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## brentrain17 (Jun 25, 2013)

This is a good report, kinda describes my last EB trip. Had to laugh, I too had "Twee" for my SCA and she remained us on a regular basis how busy she was.


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## June the Coach Rider (Jun 25, 2013)

JayPea said:


> Great report so far, Charlie. But if you didn't want to get together with me while I'm in Seattle this week and this weekend, all you had to do was say so. You didn't need to go to the trouble of going on a long cross-country trip just to avoid me.  :lol:


LOL, he is doing the same thing to me. I am in Seattle in two weeks and he said he won't be there. LOL Maybe he just does not like AU members seeing him face to face.  h34r:


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## CHamilton (Jun 25, 2013)

June and Jeff, can I help it if you have terrible timing? You'll just have to come to Seattle again -- or to the Gathering -- and I'll see you in person 

Now, back to the track, Jack...

*Empire Builder, MSP-CHI*

I was originally scheduled to take the EB to CHI today (Tuesday), and connect to the Cardinal the same day. But it's a tight connection, and considering how late the EB has been running, I decided to take the EB on Monday and stay over in Chicago, so I wouldn't have to worry about bustitutions or worse. Taking 8 MSP-CHI on Monday was $129 cheaper, which paid for a good chunk of the cost of a hotel room.

I'm glad I made the change, since yesterday's 8 was running a couple of hours behind schedule the whole way (see this thread for details) and I was really glad that I wasn't facing the CUS sprint between tracks or a dismal bus. But we had left MSP in time for breakfast, and I had a good lunch, too -- although a lot of the menu selections were out of stock by the last day of the EB's run.

People who travel Amtrak know that one of the fun parts of the trip is meeting folks over meals. My luncheon companions were probably the most diverse and interesting group that I've ever eaten with: a retired lady from St. Louis who was a first-time train rider, an Australian lady who has taken most of the trains Down Under (...on my bucket list for sure!), and a Mennonite (I think) kid of about 12 or so who was coming back with his family from a trip to Alaska, including the Alaska ferry and the White Horse and Yukon RR. No lack of conversation at our table!

Good service in the diner. Hardly saw the SCA, but since my travel was a day trip, I didn't feel the lack of his attention. The poor guy looked exhausted, and I suspect he's nearing retirement.

We got to CHI at 5:50, where it was sunny and had a humidity of about 120%. I found out why during my cab ride to the hotel. All of a sudden, the sky turned black, and the heavens opened, complete with thunder and lightning accompaniment. I was very glad I had decided not to take transit -- I didn't even get wet, but I met a couple in the hotel elevator who were totally soaked. The rain limited my desire to walk around town last night. I'll do some sightseeing today, then board the Cardinal this afternoon.


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## Bob Dylan (Jun 25, 2013)

You also dodged me when I was in SEA in Feb. Charlie, looks like a Pattern is Developing here! :giggle:

**Disclaimer: Actually I didnt arrive till 10PM @ Night on a Plane and rode the light Rail Downtown and spent the Night and Left Early the next Morning on the Cascades Train to Vancouver to catch the Canadian! Charlie had to Work but we talked via Phone! He really helped me in planning the Trip like he does for Everyone who comes to the NW/Seattle! :hi:

I hope the Cardinal is a Blast, it will be Slow Going and Don't Order the French Toast Sticks for Breakfast, they're Terrible!


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## CHamilton (Jun 26, 2013)

*Cardinal, CHI-BAL*

I don't know why, but on the infrequent occasions that I take the Cardinal, there's drama. In the past, I've had to deal with work-related crises while fighting the spotty-at-best cell service in West Virginia. This time, cell coverage was better, but Nature and the denizens of DC provided the excitement.

We left CHI right on time, and I am definitely glad I didn't try to connect from the EB, as we would not have made it. 

We were treated to a super cheerful and friendly welcome by SCA Tyreese ("you can call me T"). He says he's been working for Amtrak for 30-some years, which I find hard to believe: he must have started when he was about 5. In addition to taking care of his own duties, he also helped out in the dining car, which I believe I remember from past trips. T remembered me, too, although it's been at least two years since I've been on the Card.

The Cardinal's menu has changed along with the menus on the other trains. And frankly, while it's a bit more limited than what you might find on the EB, the entrees are every bit as good. I had the salmon, which had a sauce, not the rub one finds on the other trains. Yummy and tender. And string beans, not the vegetable medley that I'm quite tired of. With the right prep, a convection oven works just fine.

I was awakened at 4 AM by Mother Nature (or Thor?) throwing lightning around about every 1-2 seconds, and pouring rain to match. Couldn't hear the thunder, but I imagine it was continuous. Quite a show. The train's power went off a couple of times for a minute or so, but we didn't seem to lose any time, except for having to wait for a freight.

At breakfast, I might have selected the blintzes, but they had a side of the dreaded french toast sticks, and I know better than to ignore Jim Hudson's advice  The cheese omelet was okay, if slightly rubbery, as was the side of potatoes, but I probably could have done without the mysterious cup of broccoli. But pretty much every meal has been garnished with some very tasty strawberries, which is a nice addition.

Somewhere between Prince and Hinton, I started getting cell signal again, and it was very strange to be reading the news from the Supreme Court while on a train in the wilds of West Virginia. No matter where you stand on those issues, I couldn't help thinking that the decision-makers in DC would be more in touch with real people if they took trains once in a while.

Lunch was a pretty decent grilled turkey and cheese sandwich. Dessert choices matched some of those on the EB, with the addition of a brownie (in a cup [grumble]) rather than the chocolate mousse item from the Builder. Slightly warm and garnished with yet another strawberry, it was pretty good.

I'll be visiting family for the next couple days, then…more trains!


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## Bob Dylan (Jun 26, 2013)

Glad the Storms didnt delay the Card Charlie! (And Cell Service in the Wilds of West Virginia! The Late Senator Byrd must be Smiling in his Grave!  ) Other Eastern Trains Didnt have it so good as to OTP! I'm honored that you took my advice about the French Toast Sticks,(Broccoli for Breakfast?  )the Single Worst Item I've ever tasted on Amtrak besides Budweiser! :giggle: Sounds like your SCA was First rate and I'm glad to know that the Food is Improved on the Card, those String Beans sound like a Good Idea to replace the Veggie Medley that we are ALL Tired of! Hopefully the New Deserts can be Improved with Ice Cream, Heat and being taken out of the Cup! :help:


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## guest in the west (Jun 26, 2013)

jimhudson said:


> Glad the Storms didnt delay the Card Charlie! (And Cell Service in the Wilds of West Virginia! The Late Senator Byrd must be Smiling in his Grave!  ) Other Eastern Trains Didnt have it so good as to OTP! I'm honored that you took my advice about the French Toast Sticks,(Broccoli for Breakfast?  )the Single Worst Item I've ever tasted on Amtrak besides Budweiser! :giggle: Sounds like your SCA was First rate and I'm glad to know that the Food is Improved on the Card, those String Beans sound like a Good Idea to replace the Veggie Medley that we are ALL Tired of! Hopefully the New Deserts can be Improved with Ice Cream, Heat and being taken out of the Cup! :help:


Cup? Who cares unless it's edible but not tasty? I 'd eat a dessert even it comes on a paper Dixie plate! :lol: And hopefully the plate would be suitable for devouring too!


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## Acela150 (Jun 26, 2013)

Had to of been Thor.. :giggle: Me and my comics!


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## CHamilton (Jun 29, 2013)

*NE Regionals, BAL-NFK-NPN-BAL*

My cousins in Baltimore are at least tolerant of driving me to BAL Penn Station every couple of days. After all, our grandfather drove GG-1s for the PRR. So yesterday afternoon, I was off to Norfolk, since I hadn't been on Amtrak's new service. Regional 125 is a bit of a local, stopping at L'Enfant Plaza, Woodbridge, and other VRE stations. It was crowded on a Friday afternoon.

It was pouring in WAS, and the diesel being added to the train caused more of a bang and thump than I remember, but we were on time after WAS, and the sun came out as soon as we crossed the Potomac. (Hmm...) I didn't run into any more rain until we were approaching NFK. The weather dampened my enthusiasm for sightseeing, so I took the Tide light rail (the only transportation system I know that has Colonial-style architecture on its shelters) to my hotel, and went to bed facing the Norfolk Southern HQ building.

This morning, I took the Thruway bus over to NPN station, where I met up with Anderson for breakfast on the train between NPN and RVM. A rather nice points run, although Amcafe food isn't exciting. At RVM, he went back east, and I continued on to BAL. I added a nice couple of train days, and spent the evening chatting with my cousins, doing laundry, and resting up for the next jaunt.

Oh, and I spent a few minutes on the phone giving pointers to a friend of a friend, who was thinking about doing the EB from SEA-CHI. I also suggested that she check out AU, of course. Apparently I was persuasive, since she made the reservation while we were on the phone


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## pennyk (Jun 30, 2013)

Great trip report Charlie... and great trip. It does not sound like you will be visiting sunny (or rainy) Florida on this trip. (Rep. Mica wanted to know if you would be stopping by WPK on this trip :giggle: ).


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## June the Coach Rider (Jun 30, 2013)

When are you heading home? My plans changed and I will be on the EB heading to Portland leaving CHI on the 5th.


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## CHamilton (Jul 1, 2013)

June, I'm afraid that I won't be taking the EB home. I'll be on the Canadian a few days later.

*Acela, BAL-NYP*

*Ethan Allen, NYP-RUD*

After an overnight in Baltimore, I was off on another mini-sightseeing/foaming trip. Plus, I'm getting to use the AGR upgrade coupons that us westerners don't generally find much use for. So I got to do BAL-NYP in Acela First Class, which was very nice indeed. Quiet and not crowded on a Sunday morning, with good food and good service.

Met up with Anderson at the NYP Club Acela, and hung out there for a couple of hours. Then on to business class on the Ethan Allen, a train I'd never ridden before. Pretty crowded until Albany, then emptied out further at Saratoga Springs. Between SAR and Fort Edward, the track for the Ethan Allen branches off from that used by the Adirondack, and it's not in great shape. The 35 miles between Fort Edward and Castleton, VT, takes an hour. But it's very scenic, and the local communities have built or refurbished some nice stations. Arrived in Rutland just at dusk.

It was a quick taxi ride to the hotel -- which I nicknamed the Nixon Memorial Inn because it needed to send in the plumbers. But the refrigerator in the room made a sound like a train whistle in the distance, so it was easy for me to fall asleep, and be rested in time for the morning wake-up call. And back to the station for another train ride.


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## June the Coach Rider (Jul 1, 2013)

CHamilton said:


> June, I'm afraid that I won't be taking the EB home. I'll be on the Canadian a few days later.
> *Acela, BAL-NYP*
> 
> *Ethan Allen, NYP-RUD*
> ...


Oh too bad. So you are in New England, or were. Did you wave as you went thru Mass?


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## CHamilton (Jul 1, 2013)

*Ethan Allen, RUD-SAR*

*Saratoga & North Creek, SAR-North Creek-SAR*

We had the Ethan Allen's business class car pretty much to ourselves for the journey back to SAR on a rainy Monday morning, but the crew was relaxed and friendly. We arrived in SAR just on time, which gave us 25 minutes before the departure of the SNCRR's first trip of the day. Plenty of time, since SNCRR, Amtrak, and Trailways share a modern and elegant station in Saratoga Springs that also houses a gift shop and a grand piano!

At SAR, we met up with a couple of friends of mine from Massachusetts, and we all boarded the train for the 2-1/2 hour trip to North Creek. It features some really nice riverside scenery, which we could enjoy from our perches in the dome car while having a rather nostalgic train breakfast featuring goodies like eggs, french toast, and some really good bacon. It was raining pretty heavily at times, but it was still a nice ride.

There isn't much in North Creek besides the nicely renovated depot, gift shoppe and museum, so half an hour until the return trip was plenty of time. The weather was clearer on the southbound leg, so we got to see some more sights, and took some good pictures. And we had a good lunch on the train, featuring such historic railroad staples as club sandwiches and grilled cheese. And tiramisu or carrot cake for dessert.

Then we waited at the Saratoga station for the Adirondack, which was running an hour late, but which made up considerable time at SDY and ALB. As i write this, we should have time to connect to the southbound Acela at 9:15.


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## Acela150 (Jul 1, 2013)

June the Coach Rider said:


> CHamilton said:
> 
> 
> > June, I'm afraid that I won't be taking the EB home. I'll be on the Canadian a few days later.
> ...


Charlie didn't go through Mass. The Ethan Allen goes through NY, and VT.


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## CHamilton (Jul 2, 2013)

The Vermonter goes through MA. Working on that for next year


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## CHamilton (Jul 2, 2013)

*Adirondack, SAR-NYP*

After the idyllic ride on the Saratoga and North Creek, going back to Amtrak reality was a bit of a jolt. The hour delay leaving SAR was understandable -- we heard from other passengers that the border guards celebrated Canada Day by being even slower than usual. But no one, from the otherwise-friendly ticket in SAR, to the OBS on the train, gave us any updates re ETA, which was a litte nerve-wracking, given that we had a connection to make in NYP.

And why doesn't the Adirondack have business class? Coach meant tight quarters in an Amfleet I, whiny kids and crying babies. That train is not a good introduction to Amtrak -- or America, for that matter -- for international travelers. (I remember the Maple Leaf as even worse, but that was a bunch of years ago, so I can't comment on it now.)

Well, we did make the 9:15 Acela, but after a 9:05 Adirondack arrival, rushing upstairs, and then having a run-in with one of the infamous NYP gate guards, I was pretty unhappy.

*Acela, NYP-BAL*

It was a good thing that I had decided to use another upgrade coupon to take Acela First on the last leg of this trip. The excellent service, and the nice dinner, definitely helped take the edge off my earlier frustration. Interestingly, both the EB and the Cardinal have better salmon than the version served on the Acela. But I wasn't complaining.

We got to BAL right on time, where I was picked up by the young cousin who, several years ago, I had taken on a cross-country Amtrak trip with no negative effects   .

No more trains for a day or two  

*****

If anyone from Amtrak is reading this: I believe in Mr. Boardman's vision of a true national system. But Amtrak needs to create a consistent level of customer service. There are some truly wonderful people working for Amtrak: people who understand how to make passengers happy, and bring them back. But if Amtrak wants to survive, it must define and enforce exceptional standards of customer service. No excuses. Any Amtrak staffer that can't provide that level of service needs to be fired on the spot.

Every Amtrak passenger needs to be telling their friends (and their elected representatives) how great Amtrak service is. That doesn't happen now, because it isn't true. But if it were true, Amtrak would be in a lot stronger position when asking for money.


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## Bob Dylan (Jul 2, 2013)

:hi: Charlieirty job riding Trains all over but someone has to do it! Interesting that the Salmon was better on the EB and the Card than in FC Acela! 

In re your comment on the Adirondack ( it really does need a Business Class/Cafe Car with 2X1 Seating!) and the Maple Laugh, the Maple Leaf does have Business Class with 2X1 Seating in the Cafe/BC Car, Much More Comfortable and very Reasonable for the Long Trip from NYP-TWO! VIA only charges $1 from Toronto to the Border for their part of the Route even tho technically there is No Business Class on this Train while under VIA Operation! VIA Crews take over in Niagara Falls, Ontario and the Cafe has only "Canadian" Snacks and Drinks for Sale! The worst part of this Route are the Rough Tracks between the VIA Freight yards in Ontario and Buffalo which causes Slow Running and the American Storm Troopers @ the Niagara Falls, NY Station Stop! If you're taking the Canadian home guess you'll be on the Maple Leaf from NYP-TWO??

Looking forward to continuing Episodes of this traveler like Trip, we're envious!


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## June the Coach Rider (Jul 2, 2013)

Acela150 said:


> June the Coach Rider said:
> 
> 
> > CHamilton said:
> ...


Oh yeah, I forgot. Leave it to me to be wrong. LOL Thanks.


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## pennyk (Jul 2, 2013)

I am enjoying your trip report - even though you are not traveling through Florida this cross country trip. :lol:

BTW, last year when I was on the Adirondack from Montreal, we were in Amfleet II's, which was a lot better than my northbound trip in an Amfleet I. I first traveled on the Adirondack about 20 years ago. I remember being so enamored with the scenery that I have no idea whether or not the seats were comfortable back then. I agree with Jim that the Maple Leaf BC is MUCH more comfortable than the Adirondack.


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## bobnjulie (Jul 3, 2013)

Love the pictures! Thank you so much for sharing your adventure! I'm looking forward to the canadian portion!


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## CHamilton (Jul 4, 2013)

*Northern Central Railroad, New Freedom, PA - Hanover Jct., PA - New Freedom, PA*

My cousins and I spent the day before Independence Day taking a steam excursion through the green hills of southern Pennsylvania. The NCRR has just put into service a newly-built steam engine, which is a replica of a Civil-War-era engine reputed to have carried Abraham Lincoln to Gettysburg before the Gettysburg Address.

Today's NCRR has set itself up in a renovated storefront in downtown New Freedom, housing the ticket office and a gift shoppe. We arrived a few minutes early and picked up the tickets that we had reserved online -- good thing, since the train was almost full on July 3, even though it was raining for much of the trip north to Hanover Junction.

The cars were newly painted, but I understand that they are borrowed, and that new cars are scheduled to be put into service by the end of the month. The ride to Hanover Junction was on a steady downgrade through green valleys, alongside the rail-trail that leads many miles between York, PA and Baltimore. We passed many historic homes and inns, including those in the town of Railroad.

At Hanover Junction, we detrained to watch the addition of a diesel helper that would assist the steam engine on the way back uphill to New Freedom. There are restrooms and a museum at Hanover Junction, but the latter was not open.

The on-board docent did an nice job, although she had to shout since the sound system wasn't working. But all in all, a very nice way to spend an afternoon.


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## CHamilton (Jul 10, 2013)

Let's see, where was I? I actually spent the next few days without getting on a train (!!) but did manage to see a bunch of friends and relatives, including several AUers. I also toured the Hampton Mansion, home of several generations of Ridgelys, one of whom was a co-founder of the B&O.

But finally...

*NE Regional, BAL-WAS*

*Acela, WAS-NYP*

Yes, I know that's backwards, but Anderson and his devious mind suggested that it was worth the bonus points for the WAS-NYP city pair. I could totally get spoiled by Acela First Class...but I doubt I'll do it again until next year's coupons show up 

*Overnight in NYC*

*Adirondack, NYP-MTR*

The Adirondack is a real come-down after Acela First, but at least we got in the Amfleet II car (thanks to a red cap). We took our own food, too, so as not to have to depend on the cafe. The Adirondack is such a pretty ride, it's a shame it's such a second-class train. If you want to go to New England, I'd recommend the Ethan Allen (and the Vermonter) over the Adirondack.

*Overnight in MTR*

*V*IA Business Class, MTR-Quebec City-MTR

For a day trip, I made the journey to Quebec City and back. One gets to see lots of different kinds of scenery, from suburbs to farmland to forest, plus a bunch of river crossings. VIA's business class isn't quite as elegant as Acela First, but the food is good, and the service is attentive. The trains weren't too busy on a Wednesday, but I suspect that they can be lots more crowded at the right times.

I didn't have much time to walk around Quebec, but it's a pleasant place. And I was impressed with how the Gare du Palais has been updated (see the pictures in the gallery linked above). Plus, the weather was a lot more comfortable than it had been in BAL!


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## Anderson (Jul 10, 2013)

I've been with Charlie for most of the legs starting with the Adirondack, and therefore don't have much to add. However, today while he went Montreal-Quebec City, I went Montreal-Ottawa and had a blast bungee jumping north of Ottawa. The only downsides were:

-An inept cab company unable to pick me up at the jump site (which they had done no less than three times previously over the last twelve months without major incident) because two cabbies got lost and the third called me about an hour and fifteen minutes asking for a guide-in. By then, one of the employees had agreed (quite graciously) to drop me at the station on their way home, so I simply cancelled the cab call in frustration (and with the blessing of the employee, since I was under the gun to get to the station). How many cabbies does it take to screw in a lightbulb again?

-A mildly late VIA train (the 2030 arrived at about 2105), due to (I believe) weather issues. I'll give credit where it's due...they are _burning_ up the tracks getting us into Montreal. We're a bit late getting into Montreal...but I think they managed to make up about 15 minutes between a truncated Ottawa stop and simply keeping the pedal down as much as they could.

The second is a non-issue, but...man, VIA apologizes for the shortest delays. Even on the NEC, you don't get repeated apologies from multiple staff members about a 30-minute delay. At least on the staff front, VIA is everything Amtrak should aim to be.


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## CHamilton (Jul 11, 2013)

Anderson said:


> The second is a non-issue, but...man, VIA apologizes for the shortest delays. Even on the NEC, you don't get repeated apologies from multiple staff members about a 30-minute delay. At least on the staff front, VIA is everything Amtrak should aim to be.


Very true. On the return trip from Quebec to MTR, VIA apologized repeatedly for a delay (which turned out to be all of 6 minutes at Drummondville) that was made up before arrival at Montreal. VIA seems to understand that its clientele really counts on its trains to be on time.


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## CHamilton (Jul 18, 2013)

I'm home again, and have been catching up on the real world, but here's what I've written so far. More to come.

*VIA Business Class, MTR-TWO*

Anderson suggested that we take train 57, since it features the classic -- but nicely-renovated -- Budd cars that I took on my trip to Quebec City. And indeed, these trains are comfortable, and very well maintained. My only complaint is that us fat people don't fit behind the small tray tables that come out of the armrests. But that's a small distraction from a ride that's every bit as nice as Acela First in the US.

*VIA Train 1, The Canadian, TWO-VAC*

Toronto's Union Station is an elegant pile that is a total mess due to construction at present, both on the inside and the outside. Finding the various tracks is even more of a challenge than at NYP. But the plans look like the finished project will be very nice.

VIA's Panorama Lounge for business class and sleeper passengers is an elegant room with wood trim and furnishings that reminds me of a library. It also has free drinks and snacks, and souvenirs for sale. I spent a few hours there while Anderson got lost trying to figure out the Toronto streetcar system. He did find time to ascend the CN Tower across the way.

Eventually, all the business class passengers caught their trains, and the only people left were those who'd be joining us on train 1. At first, they seemed even more elderly and infirm than the crowd one sometimes sees on Amtrak's long-distance trains, but eventually some families and younger folks joined us.

Annoyingly, we had to leave the lounge and walk across the station to check in at two separate windows -- one to get our tickets scanned, and one to select seatings for lunch and dinner the next day. I would have thought that VIA's Toronto personnel could come up with a friendlier way to do this.

We arranged to get a redcap to take our luggage to the train, which was a good thing, since TWO, like most buildings in Canada, isn't very accessible for those os us who have limited mobility. One forgets what a difference the Americans with Disabilities Act has made in the US. Redcap service costs $3 per bag, in advance.

We boarded shortly before departure time, and made our way to our train's "cabin for two." This accommodation is set up similarly to a bedroom on a Superliner, with several differences. The good news is that the beds are much wider, and the mattress and bedding is much more comfortable, than on Amtrak. And the toilet, while smaller, actually is laid out more conveniently, than the toilet/shower in an Amtrak bedroom. (The shower is down the hall, and it works quite nicely.)

The bad news is that with the beds down, there is zero extra space in the cabin. We had definitely overpacked, thinking that there would be places to put the luggage we had been, er, lugging around on our multi-week journey. That was a mistake. We should have checked everything we could, and brought aboard only what we'd be using during the four nights to Vancouver. We eventually figured out where to stuff everything, thanks to VIA's version of the Superliner Amcloset (Cancloset?), and various cubbyholes, but it was a major challenge. The room is a lot roomier during the day, though.

Having finished our exercise in non-Euclidian geometry, we made our way next door to the dome car -- technically, "Activity Car A," one of the four [!!] dome cars in our 21-car consist -- 2 engines, baggage car, two coaches, a dome for the coach passengers, dining car A, 3 sleepers, dining car B, another dome, more sleepers, and the fabled Park Car. [Totals: 2 3 coaches, diners, skylines,10!!! sleepers, and the Park Car.] And another observation car, not a dome, but with large windows, would be added at Edmonton. Excuse me, Mr. Harper, you say no one rides trains in Canada??

Indeed, over some very nice sparkling wine in the dome, we started meeting our fellow travelers (no political implications, please). We found that a surprising number were, in fact, Canadians who'd never taken train 1 before. And over the next few days, we'd continue to be surprised by the number of passengers who came aboard at flag stops where there was self-evidently no other transportation options at all.

Over breakfast the next morning, the vastness of Canada began to sink in. Trees. Lakes. Rivers, Trees. Rivers. Trees. Lakes. No cell service. No wifi.Trees. Lakes. No roads. A flurry of activity at Hornepayne, Ontario (yes, still in Ontario!) where the station had wifi, and we could communicate with the outside world for ten minutes or so.

Then back on our way. More trees. More lakes… but you get the idea. Mind you, it's very scenic. But there sure is a lot of it.

Meals aboard the Canadian are as excellent as everyone says. The entrees are always wonderful, and even the side dishes are cooked to perfection. And the service staff is attentive, friendly, and very obviously enjoy their jobs. Because the Canadian is such a long-duration train, the whole staff is replaced with another at Winnipeg. This reduces the fatigue that even the best OBS suffers from at the end of a train like the EB.

At Winnipeg, the train stopped for 3+ hours, which gave passengers time to walk around the city, and even to take a bus tour. Many of us spent our time going through the excellent railway museum that takes up several of the old tracks and platforms. The museum includes such gems as CP loco #1, the Countess of Dufferin, as well as livingly-prepared and extensively-detailed exhibits covering pretty much every aspect of Canadian railroading. We also caught up on the world through the station's free wifi. The old station great hall is beautiful, but the downstairs warren where one gets to the train gates is not so pleasant. Nevertheless, they've carved out room for a Panorama Lounge, although there's nothing to see. [We heard from one of the dining staff that the station is due for a renovation.]

The entire on-board staff changes at Winnipeg. They're based there, and go to the endpoints before returning the next day. Given how long the duration of this train is, it makes sense. Such a system might be a good way to go in the US, but somehow, I can't imagine many Amtrak OBS wanting to be based in, say, Fargo.

There has been a musician on board the train, and she serenaded is in the Winnipeg station as well. We chatted with her and found out that VIA encourages Canadian musicians to play on the train, not unlike the US Trails and Rails program. But scenic announcements on board are generally limited to cute little blurbs about the towns we are passing through.

...to be continued...


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## CHamilton (Jul 18, 2013)

*VIA Train 1, The Canadian, TWO-VAC (continued)*

By now, of course, we had left the Canadian Shield country north of Lake Superior, and were passing through miles and miles of agricultural land -- lots of bright-yellow canola, some cows, and some occasional bison. (BTW, Canadian railroads still use miles, even though the rest of the country has gone metric.)

We had a long stop at Edmonton, where those of us who were trying to get wifi on the train from the station had no luck, but at least we didn't get soaked by the sudden hailstorm that hit as we were waiting. Ten minutes later, it was over, but there were a bunch of people who got wet while on the platform.

There were lots of activities in the activity (dome) car throughout the journey, including films about the train, aimed at both adults and kids. There were also beer and wine tastings, which I skipped, although folks I spoke with praised the microbrews.

Mostly, Anderson and I plotted alternate histories with trains (suppose Eisenhower hadn't signed the Interstate Highway Act in 1957?) and generally had a great old time.

The food was always amazing, and different every day. On day 3, they had a continental breakfast, followed by a brunch, since the extended Jasper stop would come during a normal lunchtime.

We had been running a couple of hours late throughout the trip, so the Jasper stop was shorter than usual. But we had time to wander the station and pick up souvenirs at the "Lattes and Trains" shop. Those folks know how to cater to foamers, with a surprisingly-good train book collection.

Speaking of foamers, we met a family of two generations of railfans from Connecticut. Nice folks! There may have been more, but if so, they kept their foam under control.

At dinner, we heard a couple of tunes from VIA's "singing waiter," who serenaded us with "Ticket to Ride" and a composition of his own.



I slept through Kamloops in the evening, but was awake early, as we followed the Fraser River toward Vancouver on the sunny final morning of our trip. We arrived at Pacific Central Station just about on time.

In my opinion, The Canadian is the best train in North America, with an excellent mix of scenery, food, comfort, service, and friendliness. If you haven't ridden it, check out VIA's website for one of their sales, and take it while you can.

*Cascades, VAC-SEA*

After a wonderfully sunny day in Vancouver, in which we took the Seabus to North Vancouver, had a very good sushi lunch, and hung out at a local bookstore, it was time to return to the station to pick up our bags. ($6 per bag for day storage).

Customs and Immigration pre-screened us at the station, and ran all the bags through a scanner. Kind of a pain, but business class gets priority handling, and once at the border, the final check goes very quickly -- only ten minutes on this trip.

Sunset over Puget Sound: a wonderful way to end an outstanding trip! (At least for me: Anderson was on his way south the next morning for the next leg of his journey…)


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## bobnjulie (Jul 18, 2013)

Sounds absolutely wonderful! Looks like another drop to my bucket list! The main drawback is that it is so expensive to fly to Toronto. I know VIA has great sales.... I'll just have to think outside the box! Thanks for the inspiration!


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## CHamilton (Jul 19, 2013)

I've posted more pictures here. Anderson plans to add his, too, and they need some organizing and captioning, but I hope you enjoy!


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## AlanB (Jul 19, 2013)

Charlie,

Two points:

1) Amtrak has no trains that run as many days & nights as the Canadian. However, back when the Sunset Limited still did run its entire route from Orland to LA, Amtrak did indeed break things for the crew in New Orleans. One OBS crew worked ORL to NOL, another worked NOL to LAX.

2) The Highway Act was signed in 1956.


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## CHamilton (Jul 19, 2013)

AlanB said:


> 2) The Highway Act was signed in 1956.


Nitpicker  We were close, considering that we had no internet at the time... And it makes sense that the SL would have had an OBS change in its transcontinental days.


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## AlanB (Jul 19, 2013)

CHamilton said:


> AlanB said:
> 
> 
> > 2) The Highway Act was signed in 1956.
> ...


Well you put the question mark in your post! I was just answering your question.


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## bobnjulie (Jul 19, 2013)

Amazing pictures! Thank you so much for sharing them!


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## CHamilton (Jul 21, 2013)

bobnjulie said:


> Amazing pictures! Thank you so much for sharing them!


You're welcome! Many were from my cell phone camera, and they came out better than expected, but still, a real camera makes a difference.

And for anyone keeping track, the final itinerary was SEA-MSP-CHI-BAL-NFK-NPN-BAL-NYP-RUD-SAR-North Creek-SAR-NYP-BAL-New Freedom PA-Hanover Junction PA-BAL-WAS-NYP-MTR-Quebec City-MTR-TWO-VAC-SEA. Now I have to wait two whole weeks before my next train trip, sheesh.


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## Bob Dylan (Jul 22, 2013)

Why so Short a Trip Charlie? There are lots of Trains and Connections you missed so you could get home to SEA the Long way! Enjoyable as always, see you in CHI unless you decide to come through Austin on the Texas Eagle on one of your frequent "Vacations!" (We're envious!)


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## CHamilton (Jul 22, 2013)

jimhudson said:


> Why so Short a Trip Charlie? There are lots of Trains and Connections you missed so you could get home to SEA the Long way!


Don't I know it! Still figuring out how to add some of the trains I've never been on. Like the Michigan services -- maybe I can do those from CHI  And I still need to do the HF -- that might be an excuse to visit Austin one of these days. Ah, me, it's hard work keeping up with some of the rest of you


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## kmbjbb (Jul 22, 2013)

Wow!! Just looked at the WHOLE gallery of pictures. That was fantastic!!


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## CHamilton (Jul 22, 2013)

kmbjbb said:


> Wow!! Just looked at the WHOLE gallery of pictures. That was fantastic!!


Glad you enjoyed it. Some pics were better than others, but I was generally pleased with the ones I got. Pretty stunning scenery all around.


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## CHamilton (Jul 31, 2013)

Someone we met on the Canadian has posted a video. Cool!



> I finally got this video uploaded. I hope everybody checks it out! From riding VIA 1 "The Canadian" from Toronto to Vancouver. I also met Charlie, Cliff, and many other people I can call friends now.


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## Bob Dylan (Jul 31, 2013)

Really nice Charlie! Thanks for Posting! :hi:


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