# Return to Egypt, trains planes and automobiles + Tuk Tuks



## v v (Nov 29, 2022)

Trains featured as we left central France on what is becoming our regular Inter City journey into Paris Bercy. New to us SNCF cars and in general smoother track than earlier in the year, maybe a combination of trackwork and rolling stock, very smooth. Across Paris to Charles de Gaulle airport with the express RER trains, transferred at Chatelet Les Halles this time, it was so easy we wonder why we didn't use that route before.
CDG airport one of the more frustrating airports we've used as it can be brilliant and crazy bad all in one airport.

Flight via Egyptair was normal, cabin crew were poor though. Passing through the passport control in Cairo we had a very serious border officer, he looked like trouble. After checking our passports, visas and entry cards very thoroughly, he handed our papers back, looked me in the eye and said _"have fun". _
We couldn't wait to get to Cairo, we love it like we love New York City, endless energy and noise, reminds us we are alive.

Cairo has all that but really ramped up. Imagine NYC on a really busy noisy day with the entire city looking like a street market, then add the volume turned right up. The cab ride into the centre is one of the great journeys in the world, no doubt about that.

I wrote about that first airport to city centre cab ride in our 2020 visit, it was special, this time it was equally special in a completely different way.

To start the cab driver could easily have been my dad, I'm 74. He was sent by an Egyptian friend as he wouldn't 'rob' us with a high fare. At the airport he held up a large sign someone had printed off for him... Gamey and Rosie. Not sure if the US meaning of Gamey is the same as the UK one, but it's a new version of my name I have to live with now, according to Rosie.

He didn't speak any English, why should he, he's Egyptian and in Cairo. But the other younger drivers helped us to converse, aided by our Egyptian friend translating at the end of a phone Nabil held out to us.
He's an unofficial taxi so not allowed to park at the taxi rank, we follow him to the gigantic car park out front. He had forgotten where he had parked the car, but we got there eventually. I carried most of the bags as he looked a bit frail, although he put up a fight as he intimated it was his job.

The car park was just as Cairo streets are, no specific direction and appearing random. But those in Cairo including pedestrians know how it works and we have yet to see an accident, near misses don't count.

Nabil was very polite and ushered us both into the back seats and held the door open on each side. By the time we entered the parking payment booth it had already been an adventure, I marvelled at his judgement in just getting out of the car park. I asked if I could sit up front with him, he said "om". But most of the ride it was the only word he said to any question or exclamation from Rosie or I.

A mile or two down the road he swerved across two lanes and stopped suddenly. Got out on a 5 lane highway travelling quite fast, opened my door and walked me round to the front passenger seat. Opened the door for me again, I felt like royalty that he had treated me so courteously in such a precarious location.

Sitting in the front was exciting and amazing, some here will know I was involved in various areas of the auto industry but never had this type of experience before.

First up was the car instrument panel, 8 warning lamps on this model. 6 of them were permanently on including a couple that had serious reasons to light up and warn the driver.
Second, the first and only driver in Cairo I have seen use indicators when changing lane or complete direction change. I could hear the light 'click' as he moved the indicator lever left and right, but 10 minutes down the road realised none of the indicator lights were working. Guess he had learnt to use them as good driving practice decades before and now it was automatic, It seemed to satisfy him that he had flicked the indicator switch on to warn other road users. That no flasher lights lit up wasn't the point.
The horn is used several times a minute by every driver, his was strangely subdued, no make that silent. That was his prime method of warning others of a more violent direction change.

And it continued... Pulled up in the front row at a red light, he got out, left his door open, walked round to the outside of the door, took hold of the top edge of the driver's door window and lifted it out, yes that's right, out. Opened a rear door and placed it gently on the rear parcel shelf.
Got back in cool as a cucumber just in time for the light to change from green to red, no one behind indicated that they were bothered they had missed the whole of the green light.

It was just after this that I had the feeling he was passing cars on the RH side quite closely and took a look in the passenger door mirror, but it wasn't there, it was gone. What was there was a large hole at the front edge of the door, so even if he had another mirror there was nothing to fix it to.

Now approaching downtown and in a slower section of the 5 lane (about 40 mph) was a male roller skater coming towards us, into the traffic, between lane one and two, not along the pavement side... brave or? Not a driver blinked or swerved.

Nabil is a lovely man, determined to do his best for his clients. Yes he forgot a few driving moves, ignored that he was making a two lane a three lane, was a bit slower in thought than he may have been and other driving niceties, but he had a real sense for how the traffic flowed, that he was part of shoal that moved as one this way and that.

When we arrived at the hotel he wanted to carry our bags up the many steps, we had to physically stop him trying. He got on the phone to our friend, handed it over, we got the price and gave him a tip. He looked me in the eye, put a hand on each shoulder, stared some more then kissed each of my shoulders, then was gone into the night.

It's a trip we'll remember for all the best reasons, exciting, unique and charming, just like Nabil.

Got to the hotel desk on the 4th floor, pleasant young man at the desk and said welcome with a big smile. I asked if he spoke English (it's an international hotel) at which point he handed over his phone with Google translate already on the screen.
We knew we were back in Cairo.

Friday 2 December is our first Egyptian train journey of this visit, we will both try to get some photos along the way. It will mainly be a photo report from here in, just wanted to give a sense of what another world Cairo is and our excitement at landing in Egypt again.

There is an Egyptian National Railways (ENR) museum at Cairo Rameses railway station, anyone want us to check anything out for them or ask a question or photo something specific? We'd be happy to do so.
We should be making a visit either this Thursday or more probably in just over a week's time when we return to Cairo for a for a week before flying to the UK.


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## Bob Dylan (Dec 1, 2022)

v v said:


> Trains featured as we left central France on what is becoming our regular Inter City journey into Paris Bercy. New to us SNCF cars and in general smoother track than earlier in the year, maybe a combination of trackwork and rolling stock, very smooth. Across Paris to Charles de Gaulle airport with the express RER trains, transferred at Chatelet Les Halles this time, it was so easy we wonder why we didn't use that route before.
> CDG airport one of the more frustrating airports we've used as it can be brilliant and crazy bad all in one airport.
> 
> Flight via Egyptair was normal, cabin crew were poor though. Passing through the passport control in Cairo we had a very serious border officer, he looked like trouble. After checking our passports, visas and entry cards very thoroughly, he handed our papers back, looked me in the eye and said _"have fun". _
> ...


What a great beginning to a Wonderful Adventure!

It would make a Great Scene in a Borat Movie!


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## v v (Dec 1, 2022)

Think you've hit the nail on the head. 

It all became completely surreal yesterday as we were invited to attend a local UNHCR event at a posh Nile hotel, then the lovely Nabil popped up again with more improbable situations. Only been here 2 days and almost exhausted already.

Tonight we get the midnight train to Luxor and hope sanity will return, what can possibly happen on a train...


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## Bob Dylan (Dec 1, 2022)

v v said:


> Think you've hit the nail on the head.
> 
> It all became completely surreal yesterday as we were invited to attend a local UNHCR event at a posh Nile hotel, then the lovely Nabil popped up again with more improbable situations. Only been here 2 days and almost exhausted already.
> 
> Tonight we get the midnight train to Luxor and hope sanity will return, what can possibly happen on a train...


Yep, as we know from History, nothing ever happens on a Train!


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## hermit (Dec 1, 2022)

Thanks for sharing your travels! Really enjoy your posts


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## GAT (Dec 1, 2022)

v v said:


> Think you've hit the nail on the head.
> 
> It all became completely surreal yesterday as we were invited to attend a local UNHCR event at a posh Nile hotel, then the lovely Nabil popped up again with more improbable situations. Only been here 2 days and almost exhausted already.
> 
> Tonight we get the midnight train to Luxor and hope sanity will return, what can possibly happen on a train...


The midnight train to Luxor! Tremendous memories. y wife and I took it in early 1970. The Cairo travel agent who arranged an off-the-cuff trip to Luxor and then on to Aswan arranged for a horse-drawn cab (a la Central Park) to pick us up at the Luxor rail station and transport us through narrow streets to the Grand Luxor Hotel as dawn rose behind us and illuminated the Nile as we approached the hotel. I vividly remember our view of the back of the driver as the rising sun coloured his handsome robes and the buggy whip wielded in his right hand. He was a wizened old man with an impressive beard.

That was almost 53 years ago. I can't wait to read your account of what the trip is like today.


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## Metra Electric Rider (Dec 1, 2022)

Gladys Knight should do a song Midnight Train to Luxor! 

I'm getting major Agatha Christie vibes from your travels - not sure why exactly...


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## v v (Dec 7, 2022)

Arrived back to Cairo 30 minutes ago at 12:30am, midnight is playing a big part in our travels here.

2 train trips and 6 nights in Luxor started to feel a little other worldly, topped off by the best Cairo cab ride yet. Got to get some sleep, will try to explain internet absence tomorrow or the day after, we're completely shattered.


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## Ryan (Dec 8, 2022)

With your narrative style, you should write a book about your travels. It'd be a page turner.


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## v v (Dec 8, 2022)

It's all a little more mundane than the potential of the plot, but did start with another cab ride arranged with Nabil. He's always prompt and arrived at 10pm for an 11pm collection, wanted to carry our 2 bags down the 98 stairs to road level (he's heroic just getting up that many, he only wants to do his job), there is no elevator, so we carried our bags.

Off we go at a fair pace, but his night vision isn't the best as he got lost... 8 times. We arrived in ample time at Rameses Station, one of the great stations of the world at least on the interior. At nearly midnight there were still 100's arriving and departing, as busy as ever.
3 years ago we did walk from the same hotel to Rameses, it took us just under 30 minutes, with Nabil 47.

Hand kisses for Rosie, other kisses for me and we're off.

All Egyptian major stations have bag and personnel scanners, there is still an obvious security presence here, and with plain clothes officers on the Express trains too.

After having tea in the upper level café we are ready for the usual game of which platform will it be. Viola! the platform number for our train was actually shown on the departure board, first time in maybe 4 attempts taking a train here. Then platform 10 changed to 11 just as we started to walk, so we waited for the Arabic version to scroll around and then again in English, yes, it's No. 10. Off we go through more security to the platform area.
Person at gate says no, not the train at No. 10, go back. I take a wild guess that it is the same platform as every other time for every other express train we have ever caught from Cairo, Platform 8.

Of course it was and yes sir and madam you are in the first car.


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## v v (Dec 8, 2022)

Walking into Cairo's Rameses Railway Station, a little like a theatre we once visited in Hollywood, CA





Entry to the car is only from one end, our seats were at the far end, one row back from the connecting and toilets door, facing forward towards the door. At times our seat location was a little unfortunate. 
The perspective of the photo is not quite right, the car was wider than it looks, similar to Amtrak.





We settled in for the night, comfortable and roomy. Rosie went right off to sleep, I was too awake for a while. We set off and chunter through the very extensive suburbs of central Cairo, which then leads into Giza, a well to do suburb and home to the Great Pyramids and Sphinx. Then something quite odd happened.

A young man, well dressed went to the right hand toilet, put one foot inside, leant inside, heard some small noises and out he steps with a new toilet roll that he's removed and starts to walk back with it. Then he notices me watching him and strolls past. Maybe this is normal procedure?
20 minutes later he's back again, this time to the left hand toilet, but closes the connecting door behind him. A minute later he steps out from the vestibule with a 'toilet roll' shaped lump sticking out from his pullover, it was under his arm, he was walking with one hand on his waist.
He was very slim and the pullover was tight, you get the picture. His needs were obviously sated as he was never seen again, and our car had no toilet paper. 

We arrived Luxor the next afternoon about 1 hour late, but nothing untoward happened all. 

Once we were several hundred miles south of Cairo, dawn broke and at times you had to wonder had you slipped back 2000 years. It's the rural dress, extensive use of donkeys even now, the small but beautifully hand farmed pieces of land usually by families. Modern life is encroaching into this scene but it has a long way to go.

Arrived at Luxor station, this railway station looks better outside than in. Here's a photo taken the following evening





We decided to walk to the hotel, it took 15-20 minutes with bags. After sitting for 13 or 14 hours we needed a walk. 
It re-introduced us into why Luxor is different to the rest of Egypt. It has about 50% of all of Egypt's culture sites, ancient buildings and monuments, they are all within about 30 miles of the town, some are within it.
We noticed only two other non Egyptians walking through the centre, which was the level when we were last here 3 years ago when tourism was at dramatically low levels. 
Any tourist in Luxor is very obvious and a target for those working in the vast tourist industry, they have to eat as well as the rest of us...

All this was to change in a couple of days, the large hotel boats were due to arrive although we didn't know of it in advance.

One piece of quite new railway news, Egypt has signed a deal with Siemens for a high speed rail system eventually to run from Alexandria to Aswan. 
C'mon the UK and US, what are you doing?

@GAT Caleche ride coming up


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## oregon pioneer (Dec 9, 2022)

I'm loving your stories! Wish we could see you here, but this will have to do for now. I'm wondering, do they have smaller stations along the train routes, and is the level of security as high? I can't imagine putting security staff at every podunk Amtrak station in the rural areas.


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## v v (Dec 9, 2022)

Now the mundane.
Arrived at Hotel Nefertiti on the edge of a small Souk and pleased to be back. Apart from very good staff it has one major bonus over other hotels in the area, it's roof top restaurant located above the Avenue of Sphinxes with the Nile and the West Bank just beyond, unbeatable for location.

I had started to feel as though I was starting a flu bout back in Cairo, Roise was somewhat better but not 100%. We only walked a little, sat upstairs on the roof terrace with fresh fruit juices and talked about our next day's 'splurge' on a private guided tour to Dendara, a not often visited younger major temple, about 3-3500 years old.
Once a trip we spend on something we really want to do, and as it was our 3rd visit to Luxor we had visited many of the major sites already.

Big news, which was really big news, we couldn't access AU from any link or method at all, the reason for no contact or additions to this thread for about 7 days.
Laptop, no. Tried both our phones, nope. Asked an AU member to confirm twice the site was not down both via a computer and phone, confirmed, it wasn't, at this point tried many other sites of all sorts to check if this was being repeated in the US and other countries, no, only AU. I had managed to start this thread while in Cairo, so probably not Egypt?
We also carry a MiFi with 73 country data sim cover for such situations, discovered Egypt has been dropped from their list. 

I gave up at this point as not too well, a little delirious, this state gave me an alternative view of Dendara Temple the next day.
A couple of days later I asked the hotel desk if I could try opening the AU site via the reception computer, exactly the same response as we were having.

We were supposed to travel by train south to Aswan to visit Abu Simbel 3 days after arriving, cancelled that visit, the hotel and forfeited the rail tickets as Rosie hadn't got out of bed on our 3rd day in Luxor. Booked an extra 3 nights at the Nefertiti and walked to the station to confirm the Rail tickets from Aswan back to Cairo didn't need to be altered, that they could be used as purchased as the seats are reserved for us if we use them or not.
On the 5th day in Luxor we're both better, decide that just before sunset to take a Caleche ride through the town and down the Nile Korniche, nearly there GAT.


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## v v (Dec 9, 2022)

Roof Terrace and Restaurant - Nerfertiti Hotel Luxor


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## GAT (Dec 10, 2022)

"On the 5th day in Luxor we're both better, decide that just before sunset to take a Caleche ride through the town and down the Nile Korniche, nearly there GAT."

You're keeping me in suspenders! I love it!


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## Mystic River Dragon (Dec 10, 2022)

Well if you had to get sick somewhere and stay put, you couldn’t find a much better place than a nice hotel with a lovely rooftop restaurant overlooking the Avenue of the Sphinxes and the Nile, plus good staff.

Smart to just stay in one place and rest. 

Hope you both feel better very soon.


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## v v (Dec 10, 2022)

oregon pioneer said:


> I'm loving your stories! Wish we could see you here, but this will have to do for now. I'm wondering, do they have smaller stations along the train routes, and is the level of security as high? I can't imagine putting security staff at every podunk Amtrak station in the rural areas.



Good question Jennifer. The express trains only stop at certain stations, not all express trains stop at all 'express' stations either. 
The end to end sleeper train doesn't make many stops at all, only major tourists towns.

From what we've seen there is security at express stations that tourists use, but have only used one semi main station and that didn't have this level of security. There were police visible though. 

Local and near regional trains use other stations too, there are many and more being built all the time. We as tourists are not allowed to buy tickets for all stations, just major stops. We haven't tried to buy tickets in a station, everything we buy is online. Maybe we could ask a local to buy local tickets for us, but when we buy tickets we have to declare we are foreigners. 

I guess it is all about keeping visitors safe and knowing where they are. This security level is connected into the road system that runs roughly parallel to the rail lines up and down the Nile. All the major roads have checkpoints outside major cities. When we were driven from Luxor to Dendara Temple it was about 50 miles each way, there were about 3 checkpoints in each direction. On booking the visit we had to provide out hotel and passport details to the guide company, they have to submit those details to the police plus when and in which vehicle we will be travelling. The details are handed in to the first checkpoint on leaving Luxor, we only slowed at the others as I assume they had the car ID in advance. 

Museums and ancient sites also use the bag and personnel scanners.

It's not a big deal and becomes normal in a short while. If the Egyptian government think it is a good idea we'll go with that.

How close is Vancouver, BC to you in February next year?


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## v v (Dec 10, 2022)

Sorry GAT, nearly forgot. Day 5 in Luxor and the Caleche ride through town.

Not as romantic or dramatic as GAT's buggy ride into Luxor at dawn 53 years ago, ours was a little different. We had promised a particular driver several days earlier we would hire him, just didn't expect to be hotel bound for several days.
The road outside the hotel was always full of various people offering visitors all manner of things, sometimes there were as many as 10 Caleche within 50 yards of the Souk/hotel entrance.
Amazing, we had to look around for our driver, no one out front, where were they all? Found our buggy, the driver had his 9 year old son with him. The wit that I am I asked which one was the driver.

We clip-clop off towards Luxor Temple, the broad street outside the hotel was one way only. Almost immediately we see a long queue of Caleche on the far side of the road, maybe 50 - 70 of them. At the head of the line is a queue of tourists stretching away towards the river, along with tour buses here and there, maybe 20 or 30 of them. This is all new to us. The driver says it's people from hotel boats down by the Nile who travel together with 10 or 15 buggies at a time for an evening tour of the town, just as we were doing, but in the opposite direction.

Pass the Temple which is dead centre of Luxor, swing right at the traffic circle and head down the Nile Korniche, we're properly underway...


Yes, our driver









We start to pass row upon row of Nile hotel boats, at least 20 with 3-4 decks of accommodation each, hundreds of passengers on every boat. No wonder the Luxor tourist industry didn't need to camp out by the hotels any longer.

Pleasant ride indeed then cross the bridge over the Avenue of the Sphinxes , driver stops for a photo (think he's done this before).




The avenue is 2.7 km (1.7 miles) long. It was built for a once per year ceremonial connecting Karnak Temple to Luxor Temple. Each plinth seen either side of the road once had a Sphinx installed, maybe a bout half the Sphinxes remain.

Then we start to meet the group buggy trains mostly travelling at speed which worked ok until this.




The horse has sensed something in this narrow road, seconds later a wagon train was heading for us, caleche after caleche.

Dad was driving in these narrow roads, he and the horse reversed in a straight line for about 40 yards (amazing) then did a 3 point turn, after which we galloped off at top speed even though the road was getting narrower here.

End of story except back at the hotel after a thoroughly pleasant and interesting hour I paid the driver plus a 20% tip. He asked for a substantial tip for the horse, Rosie and I had forgotten for just a short while relaxing that we are still in Luxor.

What a shame, he was serious too.


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## v v (Dec 10, 2022)

Mystic River Dragon said:


> Well if you had to get sick somewhere and stay put, you couldn’t find a much better place than a nice hotel with a lovely rooftop restaurant overlooking the Avenue of the Sphinxes and the Nile, plus good staff.
> 
> Smart to just stay in one place and rest.
> 
> Hope you both feel better very soon.



Thanks Patty, we're nearly there.


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## GAT (Dec 10, 2022)

v v said:


> Sorry GAT, nearly forgot. Day 5 in Luxor and the Caleche ride through town.
> 
> Not as romantic or dramatic as GAT's buggy ride into Luxor at dawn 53 years ago, ours was a little different. We had promised a particular driver several days earlier we would hire him, just didn't expect to be hotel bound for several days.
> The road outside the hotel was always full of various people offering visitors all manner of things, sometimes there were as many as 10 Caleche within 50 yards of the Souk/hotel entrance.
> ...


That's a great story and, I beg to differ, more dramatic than my dawn ride. Our driver was totally non-communicative, while your two really brought you into the spirit of things.

Lesson learned for me: Always carry apples on caleche rides!


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## v v (Dec 11, 2022)

GAT said:


> Lesson learned for me: Always carry apples on caleche rides!



I bow to your wisdom, that's a life lesson


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## oregon pioneer (Dec 11, 2022)

v v said:


> How close is Vancouver, BC to you in February next year?



The shortest way is about 600 miles/900 km. That involves six mountain passes and lots of Seattle traffic. Not a drive I'd recommend in winter.


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## v v (Dec 11, 2022)

Last day in Luxor, on the late morning train for Cairo the following day. Few chores to sort out then decided to revisit the Luxor Temple, we had visited several years ago.

On the way to the temple (all of about 300 yards from the hotel) Rosie chats with a couple of girls (10 and 15 years old) who run one of the family trinket shops when not in school. They had always been sweet and smiling each time we passed and gave us no hassle at all.
We had bought a couple of gifts for friends from them but we had made the enquiry, they didn't ask us to look around.
The younger one was a little more shy than before, it turns out she wanted to give us a gift each but didn't quite know how. We had mentioned we were leaving Luxor the following day and she wanted us to remember them. So we have a small treasure each, but it was the smile on their faces we will remember forever.

Luxor Temple couldn't be more central to Luxor town if you could move it, most in-out traffic passes it and downtown surrounds it. It isn't a small site either, a pretty large rambling set of ancient buildings. Completed around 3200 years ago, it a fairly permanent fixture for the locals.
For Rosie and I we couldn't quite comprehend how you can live with such a structure in the centre of your not so big town which was an added reason to contemplate that idea while inside the temple. (Yes I know this is started to sound weird, but the prime reason for the visit was it was only 300 yards from the hotel and made for an easy afternoon, we were still not back to full strength).

Luxor Temple is not the most impressive, it comes a long way second to Karnak just down the road, but it is still a very impressive pile of old stones.

Here's a few photos, wont bore everyone with any more detail.

At the far end is the entrance to the main temple areas. The entrance is guarded by gigantic statues.





Looking back at the entrance columns across the main temple square





From where I was seated for an hour while Rosie examined the inner temple sanctum





Most of the time I was staring at this view in a slight trance pondering the vibrancy of the tree set between massive man made structures.
Rosie said later in the day she also caught herself standing staring at something within the temple without quite knowing how long she was staring for.
We were both on the same very mild medication which is our reason for this unusual for us state of mind, not the way we are. Even today it feels odd thinking about the temple with a busy town right up against it's walls, I said this was weird.





Next day train back to Cairo, couldn't get our phones to work so had to use a different cab driver from Cairo Rameses station to the hotel. He too didn't have a RH door mirror but did show us that all his electric windows worked!


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## Mystic River Dragon (Dec 12, 2022)

Looks pretty impressive to me! 

Glad it was practically right outside your door and you could walk to it easily.


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## v v (Dec 12, 2022)

Departure day arrived, arranged taxi at the door of hotel at 10am sharp. Hardly any tourist workers around again, the hotel boats must still be in town.

At the station a last novel attempt from a Luxor person to increase the agreed price. Before we started the cab driver gave us an agreed price to the station, once there and being paid what we agreed he said _"That is not enough, it is 100 for each of you, not for two"... _ double what we agreed.

I already had a tip in mind so allowed him to save face by negotiating up to the agreed price plus the tip. He got more than he asked for but no tip, I paid what I intended, we both won.

To the trains





The lady sitting with Rosie heard us discussing which end of a 16 car train would arrive first and asked us which car number we were. No.4 was our car and her car too, she told us to stay with her as she made this journey 4 times per week. She wasn't going to Cairo but a large Nile city half way there, Asyut.





Our north bound train arriving





Once onboard she suggested we sit opposite her, her numbered seat, it was about 3 rows ahead of ours. I started to move our bags down but along came a polite Egyptian man who pointed out we were about to take his seat. I looked at our new friend, she smiled, shrugged and that was that.
Another Egyptian lesson. Try to do something, if it doesn't work then shrug and move on, most things are not worth fighting over.

Our booked seats were in a cosy corner where we weren't bothered at all. The cars on this train were the lowest of the 3 express types, the oldest and the most worn out. They also had the largest seats and most leg room. We travelled in 1st class on all the trains as it ridiculously cheap to do so and gave the most comfort over the 10-14 hour journeys.

We never found out why this lady who had volunteered to help us travelled 4 times a week to Luxor to work in a factory. She came from a city much larger than Luxor, travelled 6 hours, worked, then returned home. Something must have got lost in translation?

View from our seats at the back of the car





Imaginative window blinds, a forest of pyramids in a forest





12 hours later arrived at Cairo Rameses station, the arrival platform is furthest from the exits. We made our weary way down and up a couple of deep underpasses, no elevators, and headed to the taxi rank.
It is now just before midnight and outside not a taxi to be seen. We would usually by now have arranged for Nabil to collect us, but our phones would not call out so had to take a cab waiting at the station. Approached a policeman sitting outside to ask where the taxis were. He whistled to someone and smiled. A dapper man a couple of years younger than Nabil appeared, took our bags and hurried off with us in hot pursuit. Still couldn't see taxis but were headed towards 2 cars one of which was obviously abandoned, the other a mid 70's Renault 12 was our car.
A brief description would be this car made Nabil's look pristine, it was also a fair bit smaller and a lot older. Packing us and the bags in was slightly problematic, the trunk already had a truck sized spare wheel in it plus a wooden box with hand tools, only one case would fit. He stood the second up and tried to push the lid down, it left a 9" open gap. I pointed this out sand he said it's normal, it's ok. I expected him to tie the lid down, but no. He indicated I should get in the front as there was no room in the rear seat as it had Rosie's small bag, Rosie who is not the largest person on the planet and something undefined on the seat next to her.

He turned the key and started up, took a while as the motor was only running on 2 cylinders, it is an engine I'm familiar with and it had 4 cylinders when it came out of the factory.

Rally driver mode all the way, with charming conversation accompanying his stylish driving. He showed off the 2 electric front windows, up and down, up and down, demonstrated the horn about every 5 seconds, and yes this one worked, fully. He knew the horn language of Cairo street driving down to a tee, which was to explain to other drivers what you want to do and when you want to do it. It is so complete this horn language that it completely replaces indicators, headlights and brake lights, which was lucky as he had none of those either fitted or operating.
Rosie mentioned she was ok but couldn't see a lot as the window on the left was partially obscured by the unknown package next to her, the right hand rear window had a piece of cardboard taped to cover the window opening.
It dawned on me that I was sitting on a snug but unusual front seat. I gingerly felt around my legs and although quite comfy I had suspicions, it was like sitting on a toilet seat. But no it wasn't quite that, it was a commode.

We arrived in very good time, a little more than 10 minutes. station to hotel. The driver who reminded me of the English actor Terry Thomas didn't try very hard to ask for more than he quoted, we were happy bunnies. Now back to our now familiar Cairo hotel, all 98 steps worth.

The following morning I asked housekeeping if they were doing laundry and could I add the pair of jeans I'd arrived in the night before. All well that ends well.


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## zetharion (Dec 12, 2022)

Loving the story and gotta say that their taxis are rather interesting if a bit scary for someone like me who has only ever taken one American taxi and now I want to pack some wet wipes for any future trips anywhere in case toilet paper goes missing lol.


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## v v (Dec 13, 2022)

zetharion said:


> Loving the story and gotta say that their taxis are rather interesting if a bit scary for someone like me who has only ever taken one American taxi and now I want to pack some wet wipes for any future trips anywhere in case toilet paper goes missing lol.



It is not as bad as it reads on the page as you get carried along with how situations develop here, the unusual starts to feel usual. I think we just got (un)lucky here as most people are just trying to help while helping their friends out at the same time.

You've just invented a new chapter title of a travel blog... 'trains, taxis, toilet rolls and wet wipes'

Thanks for the encouragement, it's appreciated

BTW, the official taxis rank had been moved maybe for evening use? We saw it as we left the station, it was packed with waiting official taxis.


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## Barb Stout (Dec 13, 2022)

v v said:


> It dawned on me that I was sitting on a snug but unusual front seat. I gingerly felt around my legs and although quite comfy I had suspicions, it was like sitting on a toilet seat. But no it wasn't quite that, it was a commode.
> 
> We arrived in very good time, a little more than 10 minutes. station to hotel. The driver who reminded me of the English actor Terry Thomas didn't try very hard to ask for more than he quoted, we were happy bunnies. Now back to our now familiar Cairo hotel, all 98 steps worth.
> 
> The following morning I asked housekeeping if they were doing laundry and could I add the pair of jeans I'd arrived in the night before. All well that ends well.


Are you insinuating that you were sitting on a commode that had been used and got excrement on your jeans? Or were you just worried about that possibility?


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## v v (Dec 13, 2022)

Barb Stout said:


> Are you insinuating that you were sitting on a commode that had been used and got excrement on your jeans? Or were you just worried about that possibility?



No Barb, I didn't think the seat was soiled and as it was dark I could only see the outline of the seat I was sitting on. That it looked like a modified but comfortable commode seat made me ask about laundry a day or two earlier than I would have done. 
It was all down to the mental idea that I had/may have travelled on a high speed commode seat that it made me think to ask about laundry the next morning.

When people do not have a lot they can be ingenious with the little they can lay their hands on, and I take my hat off to them to be able recycle so much we all throw away. 
If there had have been an odour I wouldn't have taken the situation very lightly, but no suggestion of that.


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## v v (Dec 14, 2022)

Late last night got back to Brentwood, Essex, UK after braving the almost complete rail strike that is happening here at the moment. Having to change our next 7 days plans too due to the extreme (for the UK) winter weather so will complete this trip report a few days down the road.
Already plans for the next journey are needing attention, this retirement life isn't turning out as described, it's so busy...


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## Barb Stout (Dec 14, 2022)

v v said:


> No Barb, I didn't think the seat was soiled and as it was dark I could only see the outline of the seat I was sitting on. That it looked like a modified but comfortable commode seat made me ask about laundry a day or two earlier than I would have done.
> It was all down to the mental idea that I had/may have travelled on a high speed commode seat that it made me think to ask about laundry the next morning.
> 
> When people do not have a lot they can be ingenious with the little they can lay their hands on, and I take my hat off to them to be able recycle so much we all throw away.
> If there had have been an odour I wouldn't have taken the situation very lightly, but no suggestion of that.


Thank goodness and my respect to the recyclers.


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## Bob Dylan (Dec 14, 2022)

v v said:


> Late last night got back to Brentwood, Essex, UK after braving the almost complete rail strike that is happening here at the moment. Having to change our next 7 days plans too due to the extreme (for the UK) winter weather so will complete this trip report a few days down the road.
> Already plans for the next journey are needing attention, this retirement life isn't turning out as described, it's so busy...


Yep,Retirement can be work, but it also can be such Fun if you are able to get around and do the things you didnt have time for when Working Full Time!

That brings to mind the Bob Dylan ( the Real One) Quote: " He not Busy being Born is Busy Dying.."

Hope you and Rosie are rested up, Well and have a Wonderful Holiday Season!


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## Palmland (Dec 14, 2022)

Selfishly sorry your journey has ended as I enjoyed my armchair version very much!

Guess I missed it, but wasn’t there a plan to visit the U.S. with your van?


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## v v (Dec 14, 2022)

Palmland said:


> Selfishly sorry your journey has ended as I enjoyed my armchair version very much!
> 
> Guess I missed it, but wasn’t there a plan to visit the U.S. with your van?



Thank you Palmland, it's just trying to give a little back to the forum for all the help we have been given.

Yes there were plans to ship our camper to the US, but sometimes things happen that are completely out of your control, you have to roll with the punches. 
Not being able to tour the entire US in our own wonderful camper will remain one of the major disappointments in our lives, but we all have these moments and need to move on.

We're soon off on another mission, to find a lost friend in Thailand, ride a LD train there, check out the Bullet trains in Japan, and check out Gangnam in Seoul. Off to ride something in Vancouver before whale watching in Baja and then home for a while to catch up on the many chores.

The final 5 days in Cairo will follow here at some point, of course Nabil the taxi driver features again.


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## Palmland (Dec 15, 2022)

I’m sorry to hear you won’t make it to the U.S. on your next trip but it sounds like you still have many great adventures planned.

If your travels do lead you it to Florida at some point, please let all of us know as I suspect there are many forum members, including ourselves, in the area that would like to meet you.


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## v v (Dec 15, 2022)

Palmland said:


> I’m sorry to hear you won’t make it to the U.S. on your next trip but it sounds like you still have many great adventures planned.
> 
> If your travels do lead you it to Florida at some point, please let all of us know as I suspect there are many forum members, including ourselves, in the area that would like to meet you.



Thank you


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## v v (Dec 16, 2022)

Now to tidy up this travelogue, we spent the remainder of our time in Egypt in Cairo. Rosie wanted to walk through the 'Tent Makers Market' as she loves colour, pattern and fabrics. Fine with me, it's in the old part of the city which is always interesting. Vehicles featured are mainly Tuk Tuks.

Getting closer to the old city and spotted something in the minor road on the right





A complete house/shop has collapsed, and just remains collapsed.





Seen down the avenue, Tuk Tuk flying the flag





Vespa scooter modified to take a greater load. The basics of this engineering project is quite sound, particularly impressed with the 'coil over shock absorbers





Plenty of very old doors around here. The US is involved in the restoration of the whole of this building, I have the details if interested.





One of the entry gates into the Great Souk in the old Cairo. We turn right in front of the gates for the Tent Makers Market.





As we approach the gates there are small craftsman workshops on the left. I stood and watched the skill of these men, astounding with the facilities they have.





One of the Great Souk entrances





Just at the start of the Tent Market is a kindly fresh fish seller with his cat audience.





These are not tourist shops but displays where you choose the fabric for your tent? cushions, blinds, awning or giant marquee. The workshops are elsewhere.





To be continued...


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## jis (Dec 16, 2022)

I love those cats, specially the classic Egyptian Mau in the middle who is looking back towards the camera.


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## v v (Dec 16, 2022)

jis said:


> I love those cats, specially the classic Egyptian Mau in the middle who is looking back towards the camera.



Another shot or maybe 2 to come Jis. The co-ordination of man and cat was astounding when he was chopping the unused parts off the fish. He didn't hesitate when using the chopping knife, neither did the cats.


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## Asher (Dec 16, 2022)

v v said:


> Now to tidy up this travelogue, we spent the remainder of our time in Egypt in Cairo. Rosie wanted to walk through the 'Tent Makers Market' as she loves colour, pattern and fabrics. Fine with me, it's in the old part of the city which is always interesting. Vehicles featured are mainly Tuk Tuks.
> 
> Getting closer to the old city and spotted something in the minor road on the right
> 
> ...


You’re intrest in various things are what make your travels fun to follow.


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## v v (Dec 16, 2022)

Tent Makers Market continued...

The colours and patterns appeared endless





Coming out of the market into, another general market...





Another ancient doorway





Rosie discovered this surprise, yes Father Christmas in the centre of the Islamic centre of Cairo. Egypt is a multi religion country though.





Just along from there was the old and the very old side by side





After walking a couple of kilometers beyond the market we retraced our steps, another fabric display





Back to where we started (for Jis)











To be continued... Getting back to Downtown


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## jiml (Dec 16, 2022)

You are one fascinating couple. I travel vicariously with you every time you post a report. We had to reschedule our recent UK & Europe trip to next April and are cautiously optimistic that this one will actually happen. Fortunately the Eurail pass remains not activated and Eurostar is currently offering fee-free changes.


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## Asher (Dec 16, 2022)

jiml said:


> You are one fascinating couple. I travel vicariously with you every time you post a report. We had to reschedule our recent UK & Europe trip to next April and are cautiously optimistic that this one will actually happen. Fortunately the Eurail pass remains not activated and Eurostar is currently offering fee-free changes.


Whoops, sorry.


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## jiml (Dec 16, 2022)

Asher said:


> Whoops, sorry.


For what? We agree on most things except baseball.


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## Asher (Dec 16, 2022)

I think I’d pass on the fish tacos.


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## v v (Dec 16, 2022)

jiml said:


> You are one fascinating couple. I travel vicariously with you every time you post a report. We had to reschedule our recent UK & Europe trip to next April and are cautiously optimistic that this one will actually happen. Fortunately the Eurail pass remains not activated and Eurostar is currently offering fee-free changes.



We're not really, we're pretty ordinary in the flesh. But thank you for the confidence boost. 

What are your outline plans for next year, maybe we can help?


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## v v (Dec 16, 2022)

Asher said:


> I think I’d pass on the fish tacos.



Doesn't seem to do the cats any harm, they all looked fit and very well fed.


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## Ryan (Dec 17, 2022)

v v said:


> Another ancient doorway


I love the juxtaposition of the ancient doorway with the decidedly less-ancient (but still battered) rollup door.


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## Palmland (Dec 17, 2022)

Wonderful photos, In addition to a good story teller, you all are excellent photographers. My wife loved the market as she is very much into all things fiber.


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## Trollopian (Dec 17, 2022)

v v said:


> A complete house/shop has collapsed, and just remains collapsed.
> 
> View attachment 30702



Irrelevantly the collapsed building reminded me of the sight gag in _Night in Casablanca_, one of the Marx Brothers' lesser (but still very funny) outings, in which the gendarme asks Harpo if he thinks he's holding up the building. Harpo nods "yes" or maybe "oui" and the officious officer yanks him away. With predictable results. Never gets stale. I've been a Marxist for decades.

Harpo Holding Up the Building (YouTube link, 22 seconds)


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## oregon pioneer (Dec 18, 2022)

The fabric display, the old buildings, the cats... I love it all! Did you give in to any urges to buy?


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## Asher (Dec 20, 2022)

v v said:


> Tent Makers Market continued...
> 
> The colours and patterns appeared endless
> 
> ...


I had to Google one of your photos because I was curious about the outdoor cooking apparatus. Interesting place, been there for age’s


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