# India train tour 2016... Part 2



## caravanman (Sep 6, 2016)

IS THAT A 5 DOLLAR SHAKE YOU JUST ORDERED?


H. Nizamuddin station serves the south of Delhi, and it is where my Rajdhani from Trivandrum terminates.
Porters jump aboard the train even before it has come to a stop, and try to get your business. I was happy to accept the offer... there is a steep bridge to negotiate to reach the taxi rank. Haggling is required to get a fair price... The porter started at Rs 300, and we settled on Rs 100, probably still more than I should have paid, but worth it to me.
A taxi offer before we even get to the footbridge is a bit unofficial, once we get out of the station he suggests Rs 700 to get to my hotel near New Delhi station. A slightly long negotiation includes him suggesting I go to a different hotel, he will take me for "Indian price only" and he will get commission... (who will foot the bill for his commission I wonder quietly to myself?)
I got a taxi last year for Rs 250, so I was not going to pay more. Eventually he gave up on me, and one of the crowd of “helpers” said “I will take you for Rs 250” Great I think, I have won this small battle! Not so! He turns out to be an Auto Rickshaw driver, not a taxi. So I paid a taxi price in the end, for an Auto Rickshaw. India wins again!
Not a problem, I find auto rickshaw trips to be slightly terrifying, but never boring.
The drivers do have an amazing ability to find any tiny road space, to squeeze between cars and buses, and although it all seems chaotic, it kind of works well, mostly...

I was pleased to remember the location of the hotel, and after guiding the driver through the bazaar road, we arrived in due course. (Odd to be in due course, we were heading for Delhi...)
Check in straightforward, just the usual passport forms and signatures. “Pay when you check out”. Suits me!
I was shown an unsuitable room at first, but the second was much better... I can get the full benefit of the passing traffic honking every 30 seconds, in case I doze off...
Only joking, I tend to get used to the “neighbourhood hubbub” which recedes into the background almost unnoticed, except for the occasional shrill blast or a louder shout than normal.
The gent who shows me to my room asks if I require any beer, and I think, “why not?”, and order a couple of cold Kingfisher beers to put in the fridge for later. 10 minutes later, I feel much refreshed, having liberated the first one.
Arriving on Sunday evening, I just bought some bottled water and chilled out in the hotel.

Most museums and major monuments are closed on Mondays.
I took a walk through the main bazaar road up towards New Delhi train station, as I wanted to book some additional trips. I love all the variety of small shops selling brightly coloured tat. I called in to a money changer, but he wanted to deal in an unlighted dingy office, so I backed away from him. My second attempt was better, and I changed some sterling for only 13% less than I would have got before “Brexit”... Grrrr !

I was asked for my ticket by someone as I got near the station, and I recognised some scam in the offing. I simply told him to “F*** Off” and walked on. Good job he was not a plain clothes policeman!
Got my tickets sorted out at the tourist department, it was fairly busy which was a surprise, as it is still quite early in the tourist season.
I assisted several lost souls who did not know about taking a numbered ticket, and filling in the “carefully placed out of sight” forms. I only knew myself from my visit last year.
A great service to one and all would be a “greeter” who could point folk in the right direction from their arrival at the department.
Funny though, the folk I helped just ignored later arrivals, even though it was obvious they needed the same guidance... They probably thought it was this weird old bloke’s job!

I walked from the station into the centre of Delhi, Connaught Place, and tried to shelter from the sun under the colonnades of Mr. Lutyens grand design. I had a good walk around and then thought of food. I noticed a branch of the united coffee houses and stepped inside. Last year I ate at another branch, and became ill... I honestly don’t know that it was from that meal or not, but felt I needed to confront my fears of getting ill again head on.
I was expecting a snacky type place again, but this was very up market, with lovely chilly air conditioning.
Very varied menu, but rather pricey too. I had a most enjoyable meal, in the company of much posher folk than me, and of course, I did not get ill... I hope to go back again tomorrow.
I only had a small meal, and a bottle of water, very nice, but it cost almost as much as a night in my hotel... which is where the title of this comes in, from the film “Pulp Fiction”
when John Travolta is stunned by the price of a milk shake !

A well fed stroll back to the hotel and a few hours chilling. I had another wander around the streets nearby later, snapping many pics of all and sundry, then back to the hotel for a fairly early night.







Today I went to the National Rail Museum, by auto rickshaw. My third visit, I love the old relics rusting away in the sunshine! One can almost see how the mechanical beasts worked, the rods and cylinders, the engineering... Rather different from today’s sleek trains.

Another reason for this visit was to purchase the elusive Great Indian Railway Atlas, which I am pleased to say I accomplished.... Hmmm, now, where shall I go next... ?

Tomorrow I anticipate a small amount of culture, and a large lunch !

Cheers for reading, more to follow, after it happens...


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## Metra Electric Rider (Sep 6, 2016)

Exciting - looking forward to the next installment!


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## Bob Dylan (Sep 6, 2016)

Keep 'me coming Eddie!( "..and that $5 Shake, it doesn't have Bourbon in it or anything?.. " )

Your descriptions are so real I can hear the noise, feel the commotion and smell the smells!


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## jis (Sep 6, 2016)

Ed. Samit Roychoudhury, the author of the Great Indian Railway Atlas (currently Third Edition, 2015) is a very good friend of mine. When the next edition comes out remind me that you would like one, in case I forget. I will get an additional pre-official publication issue for a discount for you when I get mine. Actually many of us of IRFCA have contributed bits and pieces of details to it. A must have if you are a rail aficionado traveling in India.

BTW, the area that everyone still calls Connaught Place, named after the 1st Duke of Connaught and Strathearn, is now officially the inner circle is called Rajiv Chowk, named after Rajiv Gandhi, and the outer circle is called Indira Chowk, named after his mother Indira Gandhi. That is why the Metro station is called Rajiv Chowk.

Is your hotel in Pahar Ganj by NDLS (New Delhi Station)? Indian Railways has two, three or four letter station codes. New Delhi Junction happens to be NDLS.


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## Metra Electric Rider (Sep 6, 2016)

What does Chowk mean? Square or place?


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## jis (Sep 6, 2016)

The closest would be Souk as in the middle east, Piazza in Italy, Plaza or Place in the west.

One could use it for Square too I suppose, but Rajiv and Indira Chowks are both circular in shape. They were originally created as the center of New Delhi for commercial part of it. The actual government capital is centered around the circular Parliament House (Sansad Bhavan) and the President's Mansion (Rashtrapati Bhavan).

Rajiv Chowk and the Parliament are connected by Sansad Marg (Parliament Street). Heading straight South from Connaught Place is Janpath (People's Boulevard). This crosses at right angles with Rajpath (Emperor's Boulevard) at one end of Rajpath is Rashtrapati Bhavan, and at the other end is India Gate. All the big ceremonial parades take place on Rajpath the most prominent one being the Republic Day Parade. Interstingly, most of the Independence Day festivities take place in Old Delhi around the ramparts of Shah Jahan's Red Fort, from where Prime Minister Nehru delivered his Address to the Nation on the Independence Day and the Union Jack was lowered to be replaced by the Tricolor back in 1947 (before I was born). Anyway, all this in New Delhi was laid out by Lutyens around 1912, and construction continued until 1930..


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## Metra Electric Rider (Sep 6, 2016)

I've never, to my knowledge, been to anything designed by Lutyens. He's quite an interesting architect - very brilliant yet mannered designs.

One of my best friends travels to Delhi regularly for business, but mostly to a gleaming suburban office park rather than the government center, but our planned tour of India never materializes.


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## Devil's Advocate (Sep 6, 2016)

Bob Dylan said:


> Your descriptions are so real I can hear the noise, feel the commotion and smell the smells!


Ed seems to do a good job with these things. For whatever reason I've never been interested in India as a travel destination for myself, but I still find these reports entertaining. I kind of wish they were in one bigger thread rather than a bunch of smaller threads, but maybe that's just me.


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## oregon pioneer (Sep 6, 2016)

Devil's Advocate said:


> Bob Dylan said:
> 
> 
> > Your descriptions are so real I can hear the noise, feel the commotion and smell the smells!
> ...


I happen to agree with you on all counts, Jim and Chris (?). It's easier to comment only once, then follow the thread all the way to the end... and follow it I do! I am an armchair traveler for the most part, and don't plan to ever head to Asia, so it's very fun for me to follow along on Ed's journeys. His prose brings the locales that I will never see to life (I plan to mostly stick to visiting family across the country by Amtrak, plus such occasional adventures as my sister may choose to invite me along for).


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## caravanman (Sep 6, 2016)

Hi Folks,

Thanks for the feedback... I am not sure how to make my "blog" work best for folk. I like to read similar things myself, end to end, in chronological order. I find most blog platforms put the latest additions first, at the top of the page, which I find awkward to read in correct order...

I can delay frequent posting 'till the trip is over and just give one report at the end, that might work best? I will in any case be creating a frequent update travelogue on Indiamike as I move around, but folk will have to just dip in to that, as I can't notify you of updates.

Once the Indiamike thing is set up, I will give the link to my page. 

Jis, I understand that India has renamed former streets, and cities, and quite right too... As an old dog, I find it easier to work with the old names, no insult is intended. I am pleased that the railway still use the former codes, as in CAPE, etc.

I am in Pahar Ganj, just off the Main Bazaar road. My hotel is called "Cottage Yes Please", goodness knows why?

(No comments about cottaging required!)

I have not seen any of your posts on IRFCA, Jis, do you still contribute to the forum? A more straight laced forum than A.U. I find, with fierce moderators... if that is not a contradiction in terms.   

Cheers,

Ed


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## jis (Sep 7, 2016)

Ed. I think it would be fine if you just posted your travelogue as a series of posts in a single thread, like say this one.

Actually old names are perfectly acceptable in most cases, and really no one cares which is used. For example colloquially what is now called B B D Bagh is still referred to as Dalhousie Square in Kolkata, and what is Lenin Sarani is still referred to as Dharamtala. And very few people call Chowranghee by its new name Jawaharlal Nehru Sarani.

Yeah, there has been no change in station codes even though the station name may have changed. the code for Mumbai Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminal is still BBVT.  AFAIK the only two letter code in use is IB, for a station named Ib!

I don't participate much in the IRFCA discussion forums. Gets too hoighty toighty and as a result is moderated with a very heavy hand. Not fun. OTOH, I was one of the first 6 that created IRFCA and held its first ever convention in 1991 or so in Long Branch NJ. So I still keep in touch and do contribute to the IRFCA knowledge base, specially in updating historical information for the period 1960 - 1980. I do attend their annual gathering if I am in India at the time. I met Samit through IRFCA in their Kolkata Meeting about 7 or so years back as I recall.

Have a great rest of your trip. Looking forward to the next round from you.


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## caravanman (Sep 7, 2016)

Hi Jis,

Thanks for the reply, I kind of assumed you were somehow involved in the IRFCA, but did not realise you were one of the founding members.

As you say, it can be less fun than A.U. 

I am pleased with my 2015 edition of the Rail Atlas, very detailed indeed.

If you can snag me a cheaper copy of the next edition, it will give me another reason to come back to USA, to collect it. 

I am off to Chennai tomorrow, A/C 2, side upper berth, which I think has to be the least convenient berth. Somewhat unsure of where to put my luggage, if the lower berth is in seat configuration during the day.

I am on the Grand Trunk express, which I know has little to do with elephants...

Next report from Chennai, methinks!

Ed.


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## Devil's Advocate (Sep 7, 2016)

jis said:


> I think it would be fine if you just posted your travelogue as a series of posts in a single thread, like say this one.


Yeah, that would work well. The only thing that might make it better are some more photos. Dunno if you have the bandwidth but even just one or two more per update could do wonders.


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## jis (Sep 7, 2016)

caravanman said:


> I am off to Chennai tomorrow, A/C 2, side upper berth, which I think has to be the least convenient berth. Somewhat unsure of where to put my luggage, if the lower berth is in seat configuration during the day.
> 
> I am on the Grand Trunk express, which I know has little to do with elephants...


Yeah corridor side upper berth is not my favorite. During the day time, I guess you just place the luggage on the upper berth while you sit down below. At night they can go under the lower berth. I have tended to carry a lock and chain to chain lock my baggage to some solid structure, just in case someone gets a little sticky finger or such while everyone is asleep.

Grand Trunk Express is a historic train, curiously named since it does not follow the route of the even more historic Grand Trunk Road which traces its history back to 3rd Century BC and the Maurya Empire.

But back to Grand Trunk Express ... colloquially known as GT or GT Express. It originally ran from Peshawar in NWFP (now the territory of Khybar Pkhtunkhwa in Pakistan), all the way to Mangalore, and was introduced in 1929 by the Madras and Southern Mahratta Railway. Its run has since been shortened in stages to ultimately the point today where it runs from Delhi to Chennai. So you are riding on a historic train, the first to reliably connect north and south India together. It also ran through long swaths of non-British territory ruled by various kings, nawabs and others who all eventually owed allegiance to the British rulers in Delhi through the various "Paramountcy Agreements". These were dropped on 15th August 1947 and they were free to do whatever. All were eventually herded into India along this route. The remnants of that mess presents itself as the Kashmir problem today..


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## Mystic River Dragon (Sep 7, 2016)

I also like the series of posts in a single thread--I can pick up reading about the adventure from wherever I left off.

Ed, you do have a talent for making readers feel they are there, enjoying a great adventure! 

Like oregon pioneer, I am enjoying reading about somewhere I probably will never travel to.

(I'm also enjoying the occasional history lesson, thanks to jis!  )


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## caravanman (Sep 7, 2016)

Thanks for the info Jis, and glad you are enjoying the trip so far, Mystic !

I will post a link to some pics shortly,

Ed.


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## caravanman (Sep 11, 2016)

I decided to just post on in this thread for now.. sorry no pics, camera got pinched 

Currently in Chennai, where I hope to buy a replacement.

WHEN WORLDS COLIDE...

Tuesday, when I went to the rail museum, I was taken there and back by an auto rickshaw driver who quoted a sensible fare to start with... When buying, I do feel concern about being seen as a “mug”, although probably all tourists are seen as such. It is something to do with my self-esteem I think, rather than any need to save a few rupees. I try to watch others buying fruit, etc, and look what they pay, to establish a base price, then feel happy to pay a little more as “tourist tax”, but not 3 or 4 times more.
Anyway, the same driver is outside my hotel this morning, so we set off for Chandni Chowk, just opposite the red fort, a popular market type area of Old Delhi with a variety of shops.
Huge flocks of goats and a few sheep are tethered at the roadside, with the sellers sitting nearby. I did not see much buying and selling, but I guess business gets brisker towards lunchtime...

I had a look in the gates of the Jamid Masjid mosque, said to be the largest in India, and was amused to see a “Saga Tours” old folks luxury tour bus outside... Their air conditioned chariot looked quite appealing as I walked by on foot.
Narrow twisting lanes run back and forth here, with certain types of businesses all in one lane, such as silversmiths, shoe merchants, etc. Maybe it keeps prices stable, as you don’t have far to go to compare them... On the other hand it could make it easier for a “cartel” of similar firms to maintain higher prices?
I like “quirky” souvenirs, and was rather taken by a shop selling the most tacky, plastic table coverings, many with lurid fruit designs. I did not buy, but later in my trip I plan to come back to Delhi, so may well do so then.

I had bought and eaten a couple of bananas earlier, and was now ready for lunch, so back to the United Coffee House. As I got down from the auto, a couple of touty chaps tried to steer me away from my goal with miscellaneous offers, but without success... I need food, now!

Slightly earlier than before, only the downstairs section is open.
I chose a Malaysian style dish and very nice too, lots of crunchy veg in a peanuty sauce with rice. I tend to mostly think traditional local Indian dishes will work out better in India, but this was very good food.

I had just left the restaurant and walked on when a touty gent began pointing behind me. Looking around, I was astonished to hear a chap say “I think I may know you, are you Ed, from India Mike” ?

Turns out I was in the company of Lachie, “Unclelach” from an Indian travel forum called "India Mike"
I was rather surprised by this meeting, a genuine case of “worlds colliding”, the virtual world of I.M. and the real world of Delhi's Connaught Place !

I explained that I was just on my way to change some money, so we walked to the same place I had used a few days ago, avoiding "advice" from touts once more. I disappeared up some dark stairs, while Lachie stood “shotgun” outside. 

Lachie is a frequent visitor to India, and had just arrived the night before from travels in other exotic places.

We adjourned to a coffee shop and sat for a while, chatting and swapping travellers tales, as one does. I found Lachie a very interesting and entertaining chap, and was able to pick up a few tips on places to stay for future visits. I took a photo of the two of us together to prove that I was not dreaming the meeting, but sadly my camera got nicked a couple of days later, so you will have to take my word for these events!

Next day was leaving day, I arranged a late check out as my train was departing at 6.40 PM, and meanwhile took a stroll up to the New Delhi station again to book more trains.
I bought a small bottle of scented oil, in order to smell a little less musty on my two night train ride to Chennai!

Re-packed and checked out, I refuse to pay Rs100 for the short auto ride up to the station. A bystander suggests a cycle rickshaw, so I go for that instead.
“Pay what you like” he says, then gets down and a young kid strains at the pedals to cart me to the station. Feel embarrassed by this ride, but I guess it is money earned.
Porters at the station offer to carry my bags to the platform for Rs 100, but I decline, thinking to use the escalators... Serves me right for letting some young kid strain on that cycle rickshaw, now the escalators are not working, so it is a very heavy slog up one step at a time, to the footbridge, and the same down to the platform again. Instant Kharma !

More news soon!

Ed.


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## Bob Dylan (Sep 11, 2016)

The "touts" in India remind me of those that used to work the Border Towns in Mexico before the Cartels ruined the tourist business.

As for your camera being ripped off, sorry to hear that Eddie, always enjoy your pics!

Looking forward to further episodes of an Englishman in India!


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## caravanman (Sep 11, 2016)

Touts are a part of life here, I don't take them too seriously. In fact I tend to discount any unasked for advice, as there will probably be some ulterior motive. Some first time visitors can be sitting ducks for them, sadly.

I have started to collate all my India trip updates into my "journal", which can be reached through the blue "signature" link at the base of each of my AU posts, so they can be read in one go, if so desired.

Cheers for now,

Ed.


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## Metra Electric Rider (Sep 12, 2016)

I too, am sorry about your camera, however, I will now have to picture your travels in my minds eye. I am looking forward to hearing about Chennai.


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## caravanman (Sep 16, 2016)

Continuing on from above...


Coming down the stairs onto the New Delhi platform, I knew which platform to be on, but had no idea which end of the train my coach would be at.
Unfortunately, some of the overhead indicators were not working, which confused me further!
I managed to sort it out, and grabbed a photo of the train as it pulled in.
The Grand Trunk Express, named after an historic north south route, was such an evocative name that I wanted to ride this train, even though there are newer, faster expresses in the timetables.
My coach was a HC1 which is a two part coach, containing both first and second class sections... I was in 2nd class!
The coach had seen better days, although the first class section looked quite a bit nicer than my section.
I had a side berth, together with a top bunk, which was not great from an age or luggage storage point.
I asked the ticket inspector if there were lower bunks available, and he said to ask again in the morning, nothing available before then.
Dinner was available at Rs100, which I accepted. Quite a good meal of rice, chapatti, dahl, and a paneer and chickpea dish.
My side berth companion, who had the lower berth, had pre-ordered a meal to be delivered to the train at a certain stop. His meal looked good, and he said it cost Rs 250, I don’t know if that included any delivery charge, or that was extra.
Feeling well fed and rather tired I decided to turn in, so I made up my bed with the two clean sheets and the blanket provided. I locked my cases to the base of the lower berth, loops are provided for this purpose. I don’t always bother with doing this, but being in a side berth, it was more in view of anyone passing along the corridor than in a regular berth. Climbing up, I decided to have a listen to some music, so fished out my headphones and mp3 player from my little bag of “valuables”, I closed the curtains and drifted off to sleep. 

Waking up at some point later I was aware that the curtains had been moved, and was stunned to see my bag of important stuff was missing! At first I could not take it in, I could not believe such a disaster had really happened... but it had.
I was unsure what to do, my first worry was for my blood pressure medications, among others. Should I alight early and try to buy some, or just carry on to Chennai? Would I be ok not to take the tablets for another 36 hours, could I even get them in India?
I had also lost my camera and photo’s taken on the trip so far, my good smart phone, my less good Tesco phone, as well as all my rail tickets, my notebooks, pens, my brand new Great Indian Rail Atlas, even my signature sun hat. Doubt if Unclelach would recognise me without it now!
On the plus side, I still had my suitcase of dirty washing securely fastened beneath the berth.
I decided to continue on the train, and hoped the interruption to my medical regime would not create problems. I was aware that Nick from I.M. lived in Chennai, I was scheduled to meet him during my visit, and felt that he would be the best person to give me advice on where to obtain my medications on arrival.
I slept again and awoke in the morning to a pretty deserted train, I am not sure when most passengers got down, it seems that this train is not often taken end to end, but passengers board for shorter sections. I think I was the only person in my coach to start in Delhi and leave at Chennai!
I chose the omelette and bread option for breakfast, quite nice, priced Rs.40 I had several cups of coffee at Rs10 a time. The “cups” are quite small ! Lunch and dinner were similar meals to yesterdays evening meal, and were priced at Rs100 each. Mid afternoon a group of lads boarded. I find it hard to judge ages, but think they were probably early 30’s. The Ticket Inspector asked me to change berths to a lower inside one, which suited me, in order that all six lads could be in the same area. Much shouting, card playing, gambling, and general high spirits from that group did little to lift my spirits, but instead added to my low mood.
Although I was shocked by this loss, this turn of events, my mood did start to improve. I was quite surprised to find a carefree mood developing, a sort of “nothing left to lose” so chill out feeling!
There is a feeling of insulation afforded me with my bag full of western medications. Not having them for a few hours brought me a little into line with all the millions of locals who have to do without such items.

I treated myself to a proper taxi from Chennai central station, from the pre-pay booth, rather than the usual auto rickshaw, and was soon in my hotel.
I dashed off a message to Nick, fortunately my laptop was hidden amongst the dirty washing, and then set out to buy my medicines. I was lucky to see a chemist very near the hotel, and bought items that were as near to my prescriptions from home as I could find.

Nick came over in the evening, we had a bit of a chat and then went for a nice meal. He invited me to attend an “Idol Immersing” event at a nearby beach the next day, and also to hear some Indian music and singing in the evening, which I did.

The Idol Immersion event consisted of lots of local districts creating their own giant Indian god statues, bringing them to the beach in a procession of trucks, and then placing them in the sea. They are meant to be soluble, but some looked rather more glass fibre than papier mache ! All the while there are announcements, firecrackers, drumming, dancing and bell ringing going on. Quite a carnival air! Nick kindly lent me his camera so I could grab a few pics.
A series of loudspeaker prayers or announcements was being made, and at some point a guy came up and said to Nick that he had been spotted and was being praised for wearing traditional local attire...
Nick went up to the platform and received a blessing from a sadhu monk person, which was nice!
In the evening we attended a music event, Nick drove us there. Boy! A very good driver, I could not cope with such a mass of traffic, animals and humans, all keen to chuck themselves in front of his car!

The music was interesting, it turned out that the original concert had to be postponed, so we were attending something else.
One of the trio of instruments was an earthenware pot, a proper musical instrument, which made an astonishing range of sounds for such a basic concept.
We finished the evening off with another nice meal, and Nick kindly dropped me off at my hotel.

Monday morning I headed for the train station in a auto rickshaw. I was puzzled to see the driver slow right down behind a cycle cart on a hill... The driver put his foot on the rear of the cart, and revving up, he gave the old bloke a free boost up the hill! I needed to see about getting my train tickets replaced. I was able to do this with relative ease, given the Indian liking for bureaucracy, and considering I needed seven tickets.

On the way back, I got an auto from the station pre-pay booth, and they sat a blind guy in beside me too, whom we were giving a free lift to help him out.
Sadly the auto driver got a bit tangled up in traffic jams on the way back, which was not much fun, sat stationary amongst a mass of engines pumping out exhaust gas for ages!

This afternoon I walked to a nearby camera shop and purchased a replacement camera.
The lady who served me was good fun, and she checked it was in working order by taking a snap of me in the shop.
Back to the hotel and a bit too tired to take Nick up on his suggestion of another music event.

Tomorrow evening I head off to Rameswarum, a bit of land that juts out in the sea towards Sri Lanka. There is an interesting temple there, and a rail bridge that crosses quite a long span of sea, so I hope that new camera will perform, I must read the instructions sometime!

THE "BOAT MAIL" TRAIN TO RAMESWARUM...

On my previous visit to Chennai, I had been inspired to visit by Paul Theroux’s description of the “ice house”, a place where ice was stored after being shipped from America, in the days before refrigeration. Unfortunately, I had chosen to visit on a holiday day, so it was closed.
This time I chose to visit during the 3 hour long lunch break, so it was closed again. I think fate is telling me something... Probably to do more research next time !
As before, I crossed the sand to the sea instead, and sat a while watching the surf, before the heat drove me to seek shelter.

The hotel owner in Chennai kindly allowed me to use my room free of charge for this last afternoon, so I was able to check out much later and head straight for Egmont station, which serves trains to the south of the city.
I arrived there by auto about 8.30pm, plenty early enough for my 9.40pm “Boat Mail” train departure. The name a reminder of the former sea crossing between India and Sri Lanka.
I had arranged to leave my larger suitcase at the hotel, until I return in a few days, which was a blessing. I checked online which platform I would need, and there was a bright neon indicator board confirming I was in the right place.
Purchased some water and a packet of crisps, more to get some small change than to satisfy hunger pangs. Having bought the crisps I sat and ate them. I stood up to put the bag in the bin ten feet away, and my seat was immediately taken by someone... I can see now why folk just drop their litter!
A couple of trains departed from the platform, then ours was shunted in. I had checked online the composition of the train, and knew my coach, HC1, was towards the rear.

I was the first to reach my coach, I was allocated an upper berth in 1st class room “B” one of four berths in that room. I booked a 1st class as it was the last e-ticket available at the time.
My companions were an elderly couple, who spoke “Indian English”. We managed to exchange a few words, but between different accents and background noise, it was mostly smiles and nods. Another younger lady was in the other upper bunk, she spoke less accented English, so she helped the conversation along. The two women spent the time chatting after they discovered they lived in the same town.
A very attentive young man was our coach attendant, and put all the others so far to shame, he was very keen to help make up the beds, and came and announced when our stops were due.
This train has no pantry car, and the only vendors that came through were chai wallas who boarded at a few station stops. Felt a little odd not to have offers of food of some description, possibly this was due to the late evening departure time.
I had plenty of food and water, so no worries.
Strangely, there were no loops under the bottom berths to secure baggage to, on this train. Maybe because there is a door lock to 1st class cabins, which we didn’t actually lock.
I secured my case to the fold out table bracket, and kept my important stuff in secure trouser pockets.
Not a great nights sleep. Quite pleased when the other 3 alighted at about 7.30am, as I had the cabin all to myself now, and could lounge about and still enjoy the views.
Passing through areas of rice cultivation, we eventually came to more dry sandy soil as we reached the coast. I noticed many trees that looked drought ridden, all the lower sections of leaves looked grey and dead, although this may just be a normal part of that type of tree’s growth cycle.
Spotting the sea in the distance, I went to the train door and opened it in order to grab a few photos as we crossed the bridge to the island. Very strange sensation to look down from the open door, and see water flowing under the train. As well as the single track train bridge, there is a road bridge and the remains of a previous bridge, which was destroyed in a cyclone.
Auto to my hotel, driver spoke good English. After protracted negotiations, as usual, I paid more than locals do, but sometimes it is worth remembering that I am arguing over a paltry 20 pence extra!
My hotel is about 3km away from the main temple. The hotel describes itself as a “pilgrim hotel”, but despite this, it is quite a posh place, if a little devoid of personality.

Although tired, I decided to visit the temple and make my way there in an auto. Very hot today, I am leaking gallons from my skin! I have taken to carrying a small towel with me, to mop my face and head, as some locals do.
The temple here has a large number of bathing tanks, where pilgrims take a ritual dip to expunge their sins, or to bring good fortune. The large outer towers which are covered in statues of deities, are painted a yellowish sandalwood colour, rather than the riot of colours seen on some temples.
One leaves footwear outside, and after a rudimentary security check, one is admitted to the interior. Photography is not allowed inside, and some areas are off limits to non Hindus. One feature of the temple are the long main corridors, supported by many carved stone pillars. Some of these are brightly painted near the entrance, but left plain in other areas.
The floor is rather wet all through, from folk using the bathing tanks, and the experience underfoot was not good, with rather manky strips of uncomfortable wet non slip matting. I did not stay over long and emerged to reclaim my sandals, with feet considerably dirtier than when I entered.
I was sad not to be able to photograph the interior, so took a few shots outside, then had a stroll to the nearby sea shore, where some folk were enjoying a dip. Many fishing boats at anchor here. I have been looking for a sun hat to replace the one stolen, and parted with a modest sum for a silly straw version, but which at least protected my balding head from the fierce heat. Quite a traditional seaside selection of tat on sale to entice the pilgrims, and me. I gave a few rupees to an old woman who was begging nearby.
Back to the hotel for a shower and a late afternoon sleep, which was achieved, despite the music blaring from a loudspeaker nearby... I think there is a Hindu ceremony going on today, much loud music and chanting everywhere!

Return trip to Chennai...

I had a very good nights rest, and awoke rather later than is usual for me. I took my time packing, enjoying the a/c in the room. This hotel has no wifi in the rooms, only in the lobby, so I managed without it for the short period I was in Rameswarum.

Noon check out, but train not 'till 5pm, so I sat in the lobby reading for an hour or two, before venturing out. I had only gone 20 feet when one of wheels on my case started to disintegrate, fortunately, it is the smaller lighter case. An auto screeched to a halt as the driver saw me. His existing passenger was bundled into the front to sit with the driver, and I was given the back seat. It was not too well fixed in, so I had the interesting feeling that I might fly out of the auto, with seat and luggage, at every tiny bump and corner. Thankfully, we arrived at the station unscathed.

I sat and watched the world go by, a welcome breeze was blowing through the station, so I felt quite comfortable.
A gent nearby struck up a conversation. The family was visiting the temple from Bihar. He mentioned that Rameswarum was a very important pilgrimage site. Their train was due to depart before we had chance to talk much more.

I bought the usual bottled water for the train journey ahead, and took a few snaps of the station while I waited to board. Being at the rear of the train on the way here, the HA1 coach was now towards the front, so I headed there. These Indian trains are pretty long!
I spied my name on the door chart, and was pleased to see that I had a lower berth for the return journey. B cabin, 1st class section again. I was the only passenger in my cabin as we pulled out of the station. I soon made my way to the door, in readiness for the bridge crossing again, and took a few more pics... Open sea is not the most interesting scene, I fear !

Shortly I was joined by a jovial portly gent, and we chatted on and off until it was time to sleep. He had worked in Dubai, and other middle eastern countries for an American company, and also spent two years in London.
Although married, he seemed to have an eye for the girls, according to his tales, and had very much enjoyed his former “international” lifestyle.
He explained that he was working on a project to create a restaurant brand where each dish would contain natural ingredients to enhance the sex drive, and so to bed... he was at pains to mention that these ingredients, if consumed by a man without a partner, would not lead to ladies being attacked!
He gave me a non aphrodisiac banana from his dinner, at least it had no noticeable effect, thankfully!
A very enjoyable and entertaining encounter!
We were joined by two others later in the evening, one of whom decided to watch video without headphones late into the night, and early in the morning. Twat!
Arriving back at Chennai Egmont station at about 7am, I try to get an auto to the hotel for the same amount I paid to get there... Bloke insists it will be Rs.200. I stuck at Rs80, and found another guy to do the trip for that. Hooray, saved a few pence!


Folk are encouraged to visit the website below, click on my signature in blue... The Journal has pics at last!

Ed.


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## Bob Dylan (Sep 16, 2016)

Another interesting chapter Eddie, thanks for sharing!

I'm curious about what sort of lock or tie you use to secure your belongings? Thief's everywhere have amazing abilities to rip off people and their posessions no matter what precautions we take!

I can't see any link to your blog with the pics, using my Phone with Chrome??????


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## Metra Electric Rider (Sep 16, 2016)

I'm sorry to hear about the "disappearance" of your bag, does one report that or just live with it?

The bridge over the sea has long fascinated me - from the photos it appears to be very shallow (which would make sense for a bridge) but also filled with rip rap for the bridge as well. You're bolder than I would be standing right at the door like that. I wonder if they'll ever build the long speculated bridge to Sri Lanka?

My friends in Chennai have a Ganesh collection, I wonder if they were at the ceremony (would have been very coincidental to see them in your pictures).

Anyways, I am enjoying reading about your travels and hope that nothing further untoward happens on them!


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## jis (Sep 16, 2016)

At present there is no plan to build any bridge to Sri Lanka. It is politically fraught due to the past Tamil insurgency in Sri Lanka. They are unlikely to like easy access from Tamilnadu state of India to Sri Lanka.

As for reporting a theft like that, one might want to do it if required to make an insurance claim. Most likely nothing else will come of it.

It is imperative that you use bike lock and chain to chain your bag to a fixed structure, or actually sit on it in second class.


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## Mystic River Dragon (Sep 16, 2016)

Eddie--

I am continuing to enjoy reading about your adventures, and was able to connect to the pictures, which are lovely.

But--whoever stole your bag had a lot of nerve, and how dare they steal your signature sun hat! :angry:

First the camera, then the bag--hope this doesn't keep up, or you will give a whole new meaning to the phrase "travel light"!


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## Metra Electric Rider (Sep 16, 2016)

jis said:


> At present there is no plan to build any bridge to Sri Lanka. It is politically fraught due to the past Tamil insurgency in Sri Lanka. They are unlikely to like easy access from Tamilnadu state of India to Sri Lanka.


Maybe if it linked Chicago and Philly with a one seat ride it'd be higher priority....

Was there ever a serious plan to build a link - my "research" doesn't really give much of an answer. It sounds as if the sea has been shallower in the past but changes frequently due to cyclones/typhoons.


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## jis (Sep 16, 2016)

I am not aware of anything after independence. The Brits may have had some grand plan at some point in time.


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## caravanman (Sep 17, 2016)

Thanks for the feedback folks.

The theft occured all together, hat, phones, camera, medicines, all gone in sixty seconds, I imagine.

Station stalls and some vendors sell chains and padlocks, which can be used to secure your belongings, there are metal loops under the lower berth seats exactly for this purpose of securing luggage.

Jim, the link is in the space below the posts... : http://www.indiamike.com/india/journal.php?do=showjournal&j=9707

I always try to "travel light", but somehow lots more stuff than I need jumps into my case !

Ed.


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## oregon pioneer (Sep 17, 2016)

I am so sorry to read about the theft. It is amazing, and a sad statement about humanity, that people will reach into a sleeping person's bed to grab their (presumed) valuables! I checked out your blog on indiamike, and think you look quite different with the new hat. I hope you can find one more like the old one. I lost a Tiroler hat, on which I was amassing a fine collection of souvenir pins, on a high mountain in Norway. I was not about to go back over the peak and see just how far down the other side it had fallen out of the pack-strap I tied it with. I shrugged it off, and determined to get a yet better collection of pins, but I still regret the loss thirty years later.


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## caravanman (Sep 18, 2016)

Still pining for those pins, eh Jennifer? 

The hat I wear in my avataar pic is the one I lost, which I bought at Redondo Beach near L.A. some while back. Guess I will have to return there and buy another !

Ed.


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## caravanman (Sep 24, 2016)

Tried to update here with pics, but get message that I have tried to show too many photos....

Feel free to visit the travelog page for more updates!

Ed.


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## caravanman (Sep 27, 2016)

This post is the last of my Indian train rides. I am chilling in Delhi for a day or two now before heading back to the U.K.

As always, the same report has photos too at:

http://www.indiamike.com/india/journal.php?do=showentry&e=1405 (Scroll down for new item, it is in chronological order).

Kolkata to Simla, (or somewhere Shimla) and Delhi.


I was a little harsh describing the Kolkata hotel. Being over tired and over hot probably made me a bit over critical! I did have two very nice meals there.
The hotel had 24 hour checkout, which means that if you arrive at 5am, your check out time is 5am next day, rather than the more regular noon check in and out in western hotels.
I arrived about 11am, and checked out at 5pm the following day, so was charged for two days, which was as expected. I chose a cheaper hotel exactly for this reason!
The hotel guys hailed an old Ambassador taxi, and negotiated a correct fare for me. There was another passenger already in the cab, who shifted into the front seat.
Heavy traffic all the way, we went into a very congested market area which had mostly pedestrians and two wheelers to drop the first passenger off. The taxi had a walking pace collision with a cycle rickshaw at one point... Much yelling and gesticulating later, the two vehicles parted again. No harm done, these are both very sturdy vehicles!

Crossing Howrah bridge, we arrive at the station. There are many small shops inside, selling a range of food, books, cosmetics, and many miscellaneous items. I limited my purchase to a couple of bottles of water, and some pre-packed nuts. I have some biscuits and other food items with me too, just in case...

There are several good seating areas at the station, and I was lucky to find an end seat, so could place my bags to the side. Fans provided a welcome breeze, and many vendors passed by with offers of chai, chaat, shoeshine, and even a zip repair service for broken bags! Busy station, lots of commuters as well as longer distance travellers... I felt sorry for passengers waiting for a train which had its departure put back several hours ’till almost midnight. I was slightly concerned until I saw my own train departure correctly displayed, 19.40 .

The first train ride we ever had in India, back in 1983, was from Delhi to Kalka, the
“1 up” Kalka Mail. Although re-numbered, this train I was boarding tonight is that same Kalka Mail, which first ran in 1866. For sheer nostalgic reasons, I was pleased to be taking this same train all the way to Kalka, and then the toy train once again up to Simla, or Shimla as it is called nowadays.

I have a side lower berth again, this coach seems newer than some recent ones, and is in a clean and tidy condition. I was pleased that the upper bunk passenger had no luggage, and went up into his bunk straight away, and had gone by morning.
The catering on this train is by the same company that handles the Trivandrum Rajdhani, “Meals on Wheels”. I ordered the veg dinner and was informed it would be Rs130. Just Rs.10 more than the Coromandel Express, decent, but somewhat less content.
I was so tired that I dropped off to sleep straight away and had to be woken later to eat my dinner.
I notice a young guy is being escorted through the train by some police, ticketless traveller, or something more, no idea. Quite a number of these RPF staff aboard, the Railway Protection Force is a separate police force, and have offices at many stations.

Very sound sleep that night, dozed on ‘till about 9am!
Nice omelette for breakfast, Rs.50 again, but once more the food is not quite as plentiful.
I also had the lunch and evening meals, priced as before, and enjoyed the food.
I spent most of the journey dozing off and on, and even missed the Delhi station stop through being asleep.
We were woken around 4am at Chandigarh by the coach attendant, which is about 30 minutes before Kalka. I had a quick freshen up and we soon pulled into Kalka station.

I had plans to leave my big suitcase here at Kalka, in the luggage cloakroom, but I was unable to locate the facility, if indeed it exists. Consequently, I was one of the last to arrive at the “toy train” narrow gauge platform.
Although I had a ticket with a coach number and a seat number, there was no indication of which coach was which. I found my name on one coach chart and got aboard. I claimed seat 8, which was on my ticket, but it seems it was now the wrong seat. I was eventually allocated another seat 30 seconds before the train started. Despite being a small train, there was quite a lot of space for luggage, much more than on the Matheran toy train.
Snacks are included with this train, the Shivalik. We were served tea and biscuits to start, and then a meal was loaded later at Barog station.
I was seated opposite a young doctor and his wife, and their daughter. Sadly the daughter had a disability that affected her in several ways. It was heartening to see the love and care given to the daughter by the parents. They explained that one of the daughters special teachers was an Austrian guy, so the daughter was thinking I was a teacher too, as a European.
Another young woman was part of the same family, and gave the same care and affection to the youngster. I found this young woman quite mesmerising, such good looks and a natural manner. Apart from the views outside, the view inside the train was very pleasant for me too.
The train starts to climb as soon as we leave Kalka, and winds back and forth around and through the hills. One feature of this line is the number of tunnels.
At Barog station, around the half way point, the attendant disappears off to the catering kitchen and returns with a box of meals. Some passengers get down for few minutes to stretch their legs and take a few photos. The sights from the train are stunning, long views down to the valleys below. I take several shots, some from the open door, but the slight mist hides much of the detail that the eye can pick out.

We wait at another station, Jutogh, while a down hill passenger train passes. we have a few minutes here, and I spot a woman taking my photo. I strike a pose, which amuses her, and she allows me to snap one of her in return.

I am confused at first on arriving at Shimla, but discover later that the station has been much enlarged in recent years, beyond that which I remembered from 1983.

I am delighted to spot a luggage place at Shimla, and drop my big suitcase there. I have to sign a form that I have no money or jewellery in the case! I was told they close at 5pm, and to return with my chit and Rs15 before that time. They asked if I wanted to leave both cases, but I said no, this other one is full of money and jewels, which raised a big laugh!
Gosh, the walk from the station up to the Mall area of Shimla is so steep! I had to stop frequently to let my poor old heart slow down again, it was pounding away. I won’t pretend to be very fit, but in my defence it is at nearly 7,000 feet and I did have my roller case to pull too!
I had a stroll around, it was nice to see the old style buildings still preserved. Quite surreal to spot the church after seeing so many temples and mosques everywhere in recent days. A few more western tourists seen here also. Many Indians looking very well dressed, promenading up and down in their "Sunday Best".
I take a seat at the old bandstand, to shelter from the sun, and am pleased to feel a cool breeze blowing there. I sit a while, munching a few snacks, and watching the folk passing by.
I get several offers of hotels, but as I am going back down to Kalka this same evening, they fall on deaf ears.
I like the fact that Shimla is high in the hills, with great views, but the train ride was the attraction, as well as wanting to see Shimla itself again for those nostalgic reasons.

After another stroll around, it is time to head back towards the station. Downhill this time, much easier. There is a sizable army base in Shimla, and I am amused to see a “Sherwood Officers Club” building, as I live in the Sherwood district of Nottingham City.

Bit of a wait until my train departs, I enjoy snapping a few pics of the “railmotor” a sort of bus size rail coach, which departs ahead of our train.
The confusion over the seats is repeated for the down hill train, but I am more awake now and get my luggage aboard and find a seat anyway.
Trip down is the same as coming up, with tea and snacks, and a small meal provided at Barog again. Darkness falls early, so most of the ride down is without the views.

The transfer to my Kalka to Old Delhi train is easy, and I am soon dozing in my berth. A RPF guy asks me to be careful of leaving any phones charging overnight, as they are a target for thieves. I assure him I will be careful, and after setting my alarm for 5.30am, next thing I know it is morning, and the train is due to arrive in Delhi.
Quite pleased to negotiate a Rs50 fee for a porter, but I cheered him up with an extra Rs20 tip!

Auto to my Paharganj hotel........and so to bed ...


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## oregon pioneer (Sep 27, 2016)

Thanks for this description! I had to look up a map, to see where Kalka and Shimla are. And I checked out the photos (and expanded description of the visit to Shimla) on indiamike. Sounds like just my cup of tea! You need to do more walking, though.


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## Bob Dylan (Sep 27, 2016)

Another great trip completed and happily no illness this time Eddie!

Perhaps it will seem sedate and boring compared to India once you're back in Nottingham for the Winter? 

Time for another trip to the Colonies or perhaps Australia or Asia, if cheap flights can be had from England?


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## jis (Sep 27, 2016)

Ed, when you went to Kalka the previous time, was Kalka already electrified? When I went to Kalka and Shimla many years back they were just in the process of electrifying north of Delhi to Ambala Cantt. My sister used to live back then in Chandigarh, which is the second or third station before Kalka, and the Le Corbusier architected capital city.


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## Metra Electric Rider (Sep 27, 2016)

I thought that I just saw another recent post about Kalka and Shimla within the past day or two. Your description sounds wonderful and makes me want to take that trip.

I have a book from the early 60's about architecture in the commonwealth and, while it admits to the great influence of Corb in and on Indian architecture (Doshi, Correa, et al), it kind of glosses over it and fawns over Africa and other colonial areas. It was published right on the cusp of the Brutalist wave in Britain, so understandable. Threadjacking over, back to the regularly scheduled conversation.


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## jis (Sep 27, 2016)

I mentioned a 14 day excursion being run by the Trains Magazine in February visiting both Shimla and Darjeeling.


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## Metra Electric Rider (Sep 27, 2016)

That was it...


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## caravanman (Sep 28, 2016)

Yep, I need to get fitter for sure Jennifer!

It will be somewhat dull and cold back in Nottingham, but funds won't stretch to another trip for a while, sadly, Jim.

I can't remember about the electrification, Jis. I do remember there were still steam engines on some of the trains we took in 1983, but not the one to Kalka.

I have not visited Chandigarh. Did you see the "rock/recycled sculpture garden" when you visited?

Ed.


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## jis (Sep 28, 2016)

Yes. I have been to the incredible recycled sculpture garden in Chandigarh. Quite remarkable.

In 1983 there was no electrification to Kalka. I had been to Chandigarh around the early '90s to visit my sister and Ambala - Kalka was still untouched by catenary. They were just starting on Delhi to Karnal then as I recall. Kalka Mail was diesel from Delhi Jn. to Kalka back then.


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## v v (Sep 30, 2016)

A really enjoyable read Ed, you just get better.

Sitting in Woodward, OK reading this and although only half way through our US trip have started thinking about the next one, you are inspiring me.

Would it be possible to give a simple beginners guide to visiting India independently, you have obviously learnt a great deal and wonder if you could list maybe 5 non obvious things about travelling particularly by train and finding accommodation.

Don't worry if you can't but thought it may help others as well as us.

Keep up the travel blogs, what would life be like without them.

ps: there is a rail line nearby that must be used by freights, there must also be a crossing as about every hour a train whistle blows, Rosie and I just love that sound. Does the mention of it make you want to get back here?


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## caravanman (Oct 6, 2016)

Hi Jamie,

Thanks for the feedback, I enjoy writing my items, always hope they are not a bore for readers!

To be honest, there are not many hidden "tips" to give. The main issue for train travel in India is that there are more passengers than trains, so many trains get booked up solid long in advance.

I recommend etrain website for information, which will allow you to "test" book, as it shows availability, has route maps, etc, but you cannot book tickets on it.

Some trains have a "foreign tourist" reserved quota, which must be booked in person at a major station in India. These quotas can be only 4 or 6 seats, and are only available on a small portion of the main trains.

Main thing is to get registered to book tickets on the internet in advance. I find cleartrip.com to be easiest to use. Look at "seat 61" India page for a walk through of the whole registration process.

Also recommend joining "indiamike" free website, where members can ask for and give advice on all India subjects, including the trains.

Accomodation ranges from very posh indeed to very basic. I tend to prefer a little comfort these days, and go for A/c rooms. One can get decent rooms for around £20-£30 a night, although my Kolkata hotel (non a/c) was less than £10 a night, and my New Delhi A/c room was only £14 a night.

Going with the flow, arriving somewhere and looking for accomodation "on the hoof" is certainly possible, and was how we did it 35 years ago, now I like a little more certainty!

If there is anything specific anyone needs to know, please message me and I will do my best to answer, but Indiamike and Seat 61 are excellent options too.

Hope your USA trip is going well, I do suffer withdrawal symptoms from my Amtrak adventures!

Cheers,

Ed.


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## Texan Eagle (Oct 6, 2016)

jis said:


> Yeah, there has been no change in station codes even though the station name may have changed. the code for Mumbai Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminal is still BBVT.  AFAIK the only two letter code in use is IB, for a station named Ib!


Slight corrections needed on both fronts-

The station code for Mumbai Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus which was earlier Victoria Terminus which was earlier Bori Bunder was changed from BBVT to CSTM several years ago

There are many stations that use two letter codes besides Ib, for example Valsad that used to house steam locomotives is BL.


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