# July 12-13: Chicago to New Orleans



## SarahZ

Continued from my previous thread (Chicago Architecture Tour):

The agent in the lounge announced that our train would be boarding a bit late, as they were waiting for an engine. She didn't have an estimated time, but she kept us updated every few minutes and said it would be "soon".

The departure time was 8:05, and they had us line up at 8:00, so it wasn't too bad. They walked us out shortly after that. I was in the transdorm, which is right behind the loco on this train. I'd learned my lesson on the TE, though, and had brought earplugs. 

One thing I'd forgotten to take into account when I scheduled my "Get Away From People" trip - it was July. Everyone was on vacation. Many people had never been on a train, and almost everyone had kids with them. This was no longer the annual trip to ABQ where everyone we ride with has taken the train to visit relatives a gazillion times and it's relatively peaceful and quiet.

As such, there were packs of people in the transdorm who'd followed me on-board and were now looking for rooms 1-15. I kept saying, "Next car," as people stopped at my room to ask me where to go. Some people actually stepped into my room without checking the room number. I ended up locking my door and drawing the curtain.

Eventually, everyone was sorted into their respective rooms, and I opened my door and curtain back up. We departed around 8:35, so we weren't too late.

One thing I didn't realize about the CONO - you back out of Chicago and head south, and then you start moving forward, back toward Chicago, to get onto another line. So, once we pulled out, I sat in the seat facing forward, only to have to switch again.  It gives you a really nice view of Chicago and the yard at night:




We also passed by Soldier Field, but it was too dark to get a decent picture.

At this point, I realized we were on/near the Metra line and pretty close to the South Shore Line. I saw a Metra shack, and I recognized some of the high-rises we passed. I was going to check my phone (Google Maps) to be sure, but my SCA showed up at that point.

My SCA was LaLa (Lala?) She was incredible. She asked if I'd been on a train before (yes), if I'd been on that trip before (no), if I'd been in a transition dorm before (yes), and if I needed any extra pillows or blankets (no). She told me to buzz her if I needed her and then asked me what time I'd like my bed set up. Then she said the dining car would be opening soon and that they'd make an announcement. She explained we'd gotten our equipment late, so they were still setting up for dinner. I advised I understood and that it was no big deal.

Shortly after that, the LSA announced dinner would be first-come, first-served. I expected a mad rush, but the dining car was actually pretty quiet. Either most people had eaten before leaving Chicago, or it was simply too late for them (it was around 9:00 Central time at this point).

Instead of a dining car, we had a CCC. The CCC gets some flack on this forum, but I really like them. The booths have more wiggle room, and they have these cool lights on the tables:




I was seated with a mother and her two kids. They were traveling to Memphis and had been on the train many times. Her sons were 14 and 11. The 14-year old spent part of dinner texting his two (!) girlfriends and setting up a movie date with one of them. He was polite, and he was such a spitting image of my brother at that age that I had to try really hard not to stare and/or take a picture to send to my brother.

They had a limited dinner menu, so I ordered the half-chicken. It came with a corn/pepper medley and rice pilaf. It was much more delicious than it appears here:




My only complaint was that the rice pilaf had a lot of pepper in it, so it was a bit too hot to eat. Same for the corn medley. I had anticipated this, though, being on a southbound train. The SWC is the same way - lots of spicy food.

It was the younger son's birthday. He asked our server if he could have a free dessert since it was his birthday, and she said, "Sure!" His mom and I tried not to laugh. When his dessert came out, the server and his mom started singing "Happy Birthday" to him, and our entire section joined in. He was smiling from ear to ear. It was pretty awesome. 

For dessert, I had the cheesecake:




That bottle of wine you see is courtesy of the lady sitting with me. She had half a glass and didn't care for it, so she asked if I'd like to take it back to my room. YES, PLEASE.

When I got back to my room, LaLa had it all set up. I was pleased that she left the top bunk up, even though I hadn't asked her to. Leaving the top bunk up allows for more air circulation; plus, I don't feel so cramped.




I had one of those nights where I didn't think I slept, but I must have. I remember laying there while the train rocked, glancing at my phone a couple of times when we stopped, but then I sort of "lost time" between 1:30 and 4:30 AM. I must have slept for a couple of hours, even though I just felt like I'd blinked. Sometimes I dream about being on the train while I'm on the train, probably because my brain is still registering the noise from the horn, so that might be why it felt like I hadn't slept all night. I felt rested, though, despite it being 4:30 AM, so the jury says I got a good nap.

I thought about trying to sleep, but then I realized I'd be the first one into the shower.  So, I grabbed my things and went downstairs. The conductor was sitting in the lounge at the base of the stairs. I tried to sneak by, since I looked pretty awful, but he saw me and said, "Good morning! Did you sleep alright?" I nodded and said "good morning" back to him, and he said, "Nobody's in the shower. It's all yours. Take your time. The shower rush won't start for another half-hour or so."

If you've never showered on a train, I recommend it. It's definitely an experience. The shower has grab bars and a little place to sit (I set my toiletries in that area), so don't worry about falling. Just practice shampooing with one hand.  I usually don't need to hang on, but if I feel us going over a switch or going around a curve, I'll usually brace myself.

Some trains have push-button showers that run on a timer, and you have to push the button again once it runs out. This shower had a regular handle like most home showers and wasn't timed. Even though the shower rush hadn't started, I still showered and got dressed quickly so nobody would have to wait. I was a bit peeved over the size of the "towels". They were just a little bigger than a hand towel, which is useless when you have long hair. For some reason, I remembered the towels on the SWC being bigger, like a regular towel, so I don't know if this is a recent change or I'm simply losing my mind.

Anyway, shortly after I was dressed and presentable, we crossed into Tennessee. The sun was just starting to come up.




I went to the SSL to wait for the diner to open for breakfast. An older man started chatting with me. He was traveling on a 15-day rail pass, and this was the last leg. We talked about the routes he'd been on and admired the scenery north of Memphis. Before we knew it, we were riding along the river.




A teenage girl near us asked if that bridge in the background was the St. Louis Arch. I explained that we were in Memphis and St. Louis was quite a ways northwest of us, and that the arch is a single arch, like one half of the McDonald's "M". She sort of nodded and went back to her seat to look it up on her phone.

At this point, they opened the diner for breakfast. I ordered my "usual", which is a cheese omelet, croissant, roasted potatoes, and chicken apple-maple sausage patties. The Pepsi is my seatmate's. She couldn't pour it while the train was moving, so I helped her. 




I was on the wrong side of the train, so I couldn't see the station at Memphis. Instead, I got to look at these pretty houses for 20 minutes:







Shortly after leaving Memphis, we started riding through farms and fields. I kept seeing these fields, completely and purposely flooded with water. I assume it's rice?




Our next big stop was Greenwood, MS, a "fresh air" stop. The engineer switches out at this point too.







As we continued south, I kept seeing scenery like this:




Then we'd ride into small towns. It alternated between swamps and small towns for quite a while. I started seeing more of these trees, which I love:




Eventually, we arrived in Jackson, MS:







Jackson is another "fresh air" stop. I got off the train for a few minutes and then ran right back on. It was HOT, and I could feel the humidity cranking up. I don't have it saved in my phone anymore, but I think the heat index was 93 at that point.

Leaving Jackson, I was thrilled to see magnolias and palms.







Immediately after Jackson, the dining car announced they were ready for lunch. Again, it was first-come, first-served. The Marketplace Special was chicken stir-fry, and the Specialty Sandwich was a "four smoked cheese" sandwich, i.e. a grilled cheese sandwich with four kinds of smoked cheese. YES, I WILL HAVE EIGHT OF THOSE. Unfortunately, I could only have one:







I love cheese, so I used my chips to scrape the rest of the cheese off the plate. 

For dessert, I tried the chocolate parfait. It was _perfect_. It wasn't too sweet; it was creamy, like a mousse. In fact, I think it _is_ mousse. You can see my (empty) glass of milk in the background. I always have milk at breakfast and lunch, and then I have a Sierra Mist during dinner.




Anyway, the top flavor of the parfait tastes a bit like mocha, but I don't know if there's actually coffee in it. It just tastes like it. The middle is creamy, and then the bottom is straight-up chocolate. I really liked it, so I alternated between that and the cheesecake on the Crescent and CL.

(Splitting to allow for the photo quota - next part, coming up)


----------



## SarahZ

After lunch, we arrived in Brookhaven, MS. This dude created the railway and a huge department store:




They also had these cool trains. I think this is still in Brookhaven. The roomette across from me was empty most of the trip, so I switched over to grab some photos:










I uploaded those to FB, and ReefGeek(?) had the best comment: "Are those the Viewliner IIs?"

We continued south, with lots of trees blocking any chance to take more pictures. I kept track of where we were on my phone so I could try to catch the Louisiana border. I wasn't sure if they'd have a sign posted, but they did! I can't believe I got this shot.




Now the real excitement was setting in. I wanted to see swamps, and I wanted to see alligators. I was not disappointed:




I LOVE these trees, but I don't know what they're called.




Getting much, much closer to NOL:










More swamps!




When you head south, Lake Ponchartrain is on your left. Northbound, it will be on your right. Switch sides accordingly; it's a great view.







Then this happens. You ride alongside traffic on I-10, which is driving over the water. Brent has been on this road before, and when I showed him a picture, he said it's a really awesome drive and worth it if you have time.







Still no alligators. 

On the left (southbound), you'll see Louis Armstrong Int'l Airport (MSY):




More palms! Also, there are a lot of cottages along this stretch.




I have no idea what "Yard Limit" means:




Approaching the station, the left side gets to see the Superdome.




Shortly after this, we started the backing move into the station.

The lady's cart has "WHO DAT" stenciled on the front:




Arrival!













NOPE NOPE NOPE:




This little Yankee started wilting as soon as she left the air-conditioned station, so it was off to the hotel to change in preparation for walking around the Garden District and French Quarter.

(continued in next post)


----------



## oregon pioneer

GREAT travelogue, makes me feel like I was there on the train with you!

SOME PEOPLE can be real jerks when their precious little darlings (AKA juvenile delinquents) step on other people's toes, quite literally in your case. They are doing the darlings no favors, since they will not learn till it's too late (maybe never) how to behave in public so they will be welcomed anywhere.

I love the Railway Post Office car. Do you think they actually used it as a rolling Post Office?

P.S. I am in agreement about the muggy weather in Louisiana. I would not go south of the mason-Dixon Line in summer for ANYTHING short of an emergency. I can take hot (after I get used to it each year), but not humid.


----------



## trainman74

oregon pioneer said:


> I love the Railway Post Office car. Do you think they actually used it as a rolling Post Office?


They did sort mail inside Railway Post Office cars, and you could drop letters/postcards in a slot on the side to get a special postmark. (Photo found elsewhere, not mine.)


----------



## SarahZ

My hotel was only a half-mile-ish from Union Station, but it was HOT, and I was still in jeans, so I split a cab with another couple who were going to a hotel a bit farther down the road from me. It was a $10 flat fee, and it was definitely worth it.

I stayed at Le Pavillon. If you are going to New Orleans, you must stay at this hotel. Everyone from the valet, to the concierge, to the desk clerk treated me like I was the Queen of England. The doorman (?) greeted me at the cab, took my bag, and acted like he hadn't seen me in 12 years and missed me so much. He walked me to the front desk, set my bag down, and tipped his cap.

The front desk clerk greeted me just as warmly and provided the dining room hours, the pool hours, and the start time for their nightly tradition of PB&J sandwiches (more on that later). I made an off-hand remark that I should have packed my swimsuit, as the rooftop pool is open until 1:00 AM, not 9:00 like most hotels, and she said, "Oh, our concierge can get anything you need. If you give him your swimsuit size, he can go pick one up for you, and we'll add it to your bill."  Seriously? I didn't take them up on it, but how cool is that?

In addition to the amazing service and reasonable price ($110 for a Sunday night in July), the room and hotel were stunning.




That menu next to the glasses is a Bubble Bath Menu!




Even the keys are pretty:







I was trying to take a picture of the elevators and got myself. I'm much happier than I look (I'm concentrating). Also, you can see I changed into a maxi dress and a white top (to cover my arms) in preparation for the heat:




The "floor dial" or whatever it's called still works! I've seen these in a lot of old hotels, but they always have a digital display right next to them. I love that they still use the original:










Okay, so the plan was: grab a streetcar to the FQ, eat beignets and walk around a bit, grab another streetcar to the Garden District, walk the one-mile tour I'd printed out, grab a streetcar back to the hotel, shower, eat PB&J sandwiches with everyone else, go to bed.

That didn't happen. This is what happened.

Walked to St. Charles streetcar stop. Waited five minutes. Streetcar showed up completely _packed_ with people. There was absolutely no room to get on. So, I waited about ten minutes for the next one. In 107-degree heat and humidity. I was dying. Had I double-checked my map, I would have seen that I could have walked to the FQ at that point. Ha. 

Once I got on the streetcar, it was really nice. The windows in front of the driver were open, so we had a good breeze. I bought a one-day "Jazzy Pass", which costs $3 and gives you unlimited bus and streetcar fare until 4:00 AM.




The streetcar dropped me off at Canal and Bourbon, which is when I realized I probably could have walked that in about 5-10 minutes.  Oh well.

The sign for Canal still had some beads on it:







It was way too hot to walk, so I decided to catch another streetcar to the area near Cafe du Monde. This streetcar is the one I should have caught. Oops:




Instead, I got on the next one. This one was air-conditioned. Yay!







Unfortunately, I didn't realize my error until this one stopped at the casino and then didn't proceed further. I was pretty ticked, since I'd already waited 10 minutes for that one, and now I had to transfer again. Lesson learned: watch the signs above the windows, as the streetcars are all the same color. Also, bring decent walking shoes and a ton of water, because in the time it takes to catch a streetcar, you can probably walk to where you want to go.

On my way to catch the next streetcar, the curb crumbled at an intersection, and I fell right into the street. I fell flat onto my hands/hips/knees, which got really scraped-up. Luckily, I hadn't torn my dress. A lady rushed right over to help me up and make sure I was okay.

Meanwhile, some teens across the street started laughing and pointing. I started to glare at them, and that's when this lady said, "Never you mind, honey." Then she turned toward them and yelled, "WHAT'S WRONG WITH YOU BOYS? DIDN'T YOUR MOMMA EVER TEACH YOU MANNERS? WHAT WOULD SHE SAY TO YOU? YOU'RE A DISGRACE. WHEN A LADY FALLS, YOU HELP HER." They sort of skulked/ran away. It was amazing.  If I hadn't been in pain and fighting off tears of embarrassment, I would have started laughing.

(That's another cool thing about the south. Everyone called me child, dear, honey, and sweetie.)

Eventually, I got on the correct streetcar, which takes you along the river. At the stop for Cafe du Monde (I think it's Dumaine St), you're greeted with this fountain.




I walked around a little bit and found one of those "Apartment: Not Haunted" signs. Apparently, this is a thing in New Orleans.










Those were all taken within a block of each other. Every time I went down a side street, I got harassed (the guy in the red shorts kept following me, up until I took that "apartment sign" photo and told him to get the hell away from me). Plus, I was SO hot, and I was ready to drink about a gallon of ice water.

Eventually, after trying to walk into some shops and failing due to crowds, I made my way to Cafe du Monde. I ended up waiting about thirty minutes, and then they brought out my order - yum.




I guess I was sort of naive for assuming New Orleans wouldn't be as crowded during the summer. I always hear about places like Vegas offering discounts during the summer because nobody wants to come when it's so hot, so I figured New Orleans would be dead. Ha. Hahahaha. Ha. No. It was like Disney during spring break. I could barely get down the sidewalk, and every store was filled to capacity.

Also, the stores keep their doors open to let the A/C out. This is nice and enticing when you're on the sidewalk, but it means you can't really escape the heat, as the doors are letting the heat in. Every time I walked into a shop, it was still close to 85 degrees in there.

What is wrong with you southerners? 

I walked a bit north, toward the cathedral. St. Louis is the oldest Catholic cathedral still in operation. It was built in the late 1700s.




After that, I was done. Simply done. I was overheated, and it was getting late. Plus, it looked like it was going to rain. I thought about heading to the Garden District, but it was 7:00, and I wanted a nice, cold shower and my nice, cold sheets. I'm glad I made that decision, because I waited about 40 minutes for a streetcar. Again, I could have walked the mile-ish back to my hotel, but it was SO hot, and I was feeling pretty crispy.

This was taken from the streetcar stop along the river. You can see the wind starting to pick up. We kept hearing thunder, LOUD thunder, but it never rained.




It was pretty bizarre and reminded me of Michigan. In fact, a half-mile away, it was perfectly sunny. This is what it looked like when I turned around:





That ship is the Natchez Riverboat. They run dinner cruises with Dixieland jazz music. If I'd had more time, I totally would have done that.

Eventually, I made my way back to my hotel. By the time I got back, it was 8:30. I hopped into the shower, set it to 40 degrees, and then changed into different clothes. I decided to check out the rooftop pool while waiting for PB&J time to start.

One of the many things I loved about New Orleans - these gas lamps. They were all over the FQ, and my hotel had them on the roof and in the valet parking area. They're real gas lamps too, not just flickering light bulbs.










Remember that bit about the hotel and concierge treating everyone like royalty? Well, they really do want to provide an amazing experience.



> A guest checked into the hotel, arriving after a very long journey. He situated his belongings in his room and then retired to the lounge for a nightcap. When the guest simply ordered a tall glass of milk, the bar keep inquired as to his peculiar choice of drink. He began telling him about his family back home, and how since he was away from them so often, they began silly rituals that they would do at the same time every evening. His young daughter was partial to a late night snack of PB&J and milk at the kitchen table. Although he regretted that none of the hotels could provide him with the homemade treat they so often enjoyed, he would still make a point to order his glass of milk to share with his daughter miles away.
> 
> As fate would have it, the bar keep on duty that night was actually the hotel's General Manager, who was substituting for one of his employee’s who had left early due to a last minute family emergency. Intrigued with the guests story and wanting to make his stay extra special, the General Manager asked the late night kitchen staff if they happened to have the necessary ingredients to whip up the nostalgic sandwich. Sure enough, within minutes, the guest was presented with the one item that could complete his nightly ritual of an evening snack with his daughter hundreds of miles away... a freshly made peanut butter and jelly sandwich. Before long, word spread throughout the lounge and almost everyone wanted a PB&J sandwich too! Touched by the situation and seeing how much everyone was enjoying their snacks, a tradition began.
> 
> Ever since that late night long ago on September 10th, 1988, the hotel has continued the tradition at 10 o'clock p.m. each and every night.









The lady with the hair scarf is a retired history teacher. We sat and talked while eating our bedtime snack. It was a nice way to end the day.




I'm really excited to go back to New Orleans. I barely got to see anything, so I have a looooong list for the next trip. Also, I'll plan the next trip for January, when the weather is much cooler and the Mardi Gras crowds haven't arrived yet.


----------



## SarahZ

oregon pioneer said:


> GREAT travelogue, makes me feel like I was there on the train with you! SOME PEOPLE can be real jerks when their precious little darlings (AKA juvenile delinquents) step on other people's toes, quite literally in your case. They are doing the darlings no favors, since they will not learn till it's too late (maybe never) how to behave in public so they will be welcomed anywhere. I love the Railway Post Office car. Do you think they actually used it as a rolling Post Office? P.S. I am in agreement about the muggy weather in Louisiana. I would not go south of the mason-Dixon Line in summer for ANYTHING short of an emergency. I can take hot (after I get used to it each year), but not humid.


Haha. I removed the bits about the unruly children. I realized I sounded like a curmudgeon (but _seriously_... those kids...).


----------



## SarahZ

Forgot to post the link:

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10101680690864134.1073741852.30311596&type=1&l=168486953e

Lots more photos there, and you don't need a FB account to access them.


----------



## SarahZ

I really need to write to Amtrak about LaLa's service.

Not only was she friendly and upbeat with everyone during the trip, both customers and employees, but she called me "Miss Sarah" every time she talked to me (another southern thing I love).

In addition to the fabulous service, at one point, I walked back to my room with a cup of ice and a tray from the cafe with some snacks and a drink in it. She said, "Oh, Miss Sarah! I would have gone and got those things for you." I've never heard of an SCA running to the cafe car for sleeper pax, so I thought that was really nice of her to offer, especially since she was changing bedding when she said that.

She was really efficient too. My bed was changed back to daytime mode after breakfast, and she'd already changed the bedding in the room. I watched her flip the room across from me, and she was like The Flash.

When I got off the train, she helped me with my bag, and I tipped her $20. She was really thankful and said, "I hope you have a great time in New Orleans!"

If/when I take the CONO again, I hope she's my SCA.


----------



## bobnjulie

That looked just AMAZING! So much better than our experience -except for the heat and nobody at Cafe du Monde! I don't know if I could ever get my husband back to NO after our 4 over stay over - he avoids the heat like the plague - but that hotel sounds TOTALLY RAD!!!!


----------



## Bob Dylan

Best time to go to New Orleans Sarah is in October and April (AFTER Fat Tuesday and before the Music Festival in May!!!) Feb can be Cold and Damp and the Crowds and High Prices start @ Christmas and run till after Mardi Gras!)

Going during one of the Food Fest's is also good time if you can snag a good deal on your Hotel! I told you you'd love Your Hotel!

The Heat and Humidity Are terrible from May- Sept, especially during Hurricane Season!!!


----------



## SarahZ

I like cold and damp.  Well, I like it better than 90 and humid, anyway...

A weather site says the average temperature in January is 45-60. That's perfect.

October would be nice, though. I don't mind warm, like 65-70. I just can't stand anything over 75.


----------



## Dan O

What a great trip report. I will be in New Orleans in two weeks, coming from Southern California. We have swamp tour and WWII museum on the to do list. Many other things being considered as well but only there 2 full days so not a lot of time to see much. We will be staying a stone throw from the cathedral.

Dan


----------



## SarahZ

I should have mentioned that the reason I had to be in bed early instead of wandering the FQ or Garden District is that I had to be up at 5:30 to catch the Crescent to DC. That trip report is coming up next. 

Dan - you should see my list. I'm going to have to spend a week there. It's insane. I got a little taste of it while there, and now I want more. If it weren't so hot and humid in the summer, it would make my list of places to live. Maybe, when we're retired, we'll have a winter home there. It's so pretty.


----------



## Green Maned Lion

That hotel is AMAZING. I stayed there, too. When me and my friend Chad got there after arriving on the Sunset after midnight, we got to the hotel and presented our reservation. He looked at us, looked at it, and said, "we let out our last two bed rooms. I suppose you boys, can't share a bed, I'll have to upgrade you."

We got a two bedroom suite.


----------



## SarahZ

Green Maned Lion said:


> That hotel is AMAZING. I stayed there, too. When me and my friend Chad got there after arriving on the Sunset after midnight, we got to the hotel and presented our reservation. He looked at us, looked at it, and said, "we let out our last two bed rooms. I suppose you boys, can't share a bed, I'll have to upgrade you."
> 
> *We got a two bedroom suite.*


Whoa. Those suites are SWANK. I saw pictures of them when I booked through the website. They're _expensive_.


----------



## Green Maned Lion

I know. I was blown away.


----------



## Misty.

*chuckles a bit* This reminds me of parts of the OTOL Southeast Railfest I did back in July of 2011, though I did the CONO in two trips and in the reverse direction.

Still, going down your post in the order that you covered it... Yup, the St. Charles Air Line maneuvering threw me a bit the first few times, but by the time I was on a STL-CHM-CHI partial bustitution for Lincoln Service track work in July of 2012 (when I was taking part in the Chicago based events of Chief RailFest), I was familiar enough with it to warn some dude from Michigan that i was almost to the station 

Hmm. While I don't prefer a CCC for dining, last I checked... a technically functional diner still has food  Funny that the veggie was the corn/pepper medley, I think I'd eat more of that than the usual Am-veggies... The two girlfriends thing? I do that myself with a couple guys here on AU, so I figure as long as they don't do anything that they're gonna regret, and all of them know about and are decent with each other given the context... Whatever works  Speaking of "whatever works"... I can see why the younger kid was saying "it's my birthday, could I have a free dessert?", at least considering how most restaurants do things these days. *giggle*

*enjoys the pics for a bit* Ohhh, if that's the specialty sandwich when I'm on my trip next month, I know what I'm having the whole way to Atlanta in the appropriate meal period  I plan on doing the same with my chips - cheese sure does like sticking to plates when it should be going into mouths. 

*scrolls through the pictures again, stopping and going more carefully through the pictures starting with the Jazzy Pass* Huh, interesting that your pass expired of 4 A.M. - When I was there, 3 A.M. was the expiration time. I didn't make it to Cafe du Monde, sadly - that's part of why I need to go back sometime (also, there was streetcar related construction, so I haven't covered all the system yet).

*finishes this portion of the trip report* Hmm. I must admit, when I can pull off a short trip to tourist and go geocaching around NOL, I am going to try to stay at the hotel you were at.


----------



## SarahZ

Misty. said:


> The two girlfriends thing? I do that myself with a couple guys here on AU, so I figure as long as they don't do anything that they're gonna regret, and all of them know about and are decent with each other given the context... Whatever works
> 
> Speaking of "whatever works"... I can see why the younger kid was saying "it's my birthday, could I have a free dessert?", at least considering how most restaurants do things these days. *giggle*


Oh, that "two girlfriends (!)" was out of admiration. I was totally not judging. Not one bit. I consider anyone in love to be lucky, and if someone is lucky enough to have two people to love, then more power to them. I have several friends in poly relationships, and as long as everyone is open, honest, happy, and okay with it, then yay for them.  Plus, at the age of 14, why tie yourself down? That's the age to start dating and have fun with it.

The dessert thing - yes, that's why we were chuckling. We knew he didn't realize the desserts were included, and we loved that the server didn't ruin it for him by telling him that. He was so happy that he got to have a birthday cheesecake.


----------



## Dan O

SarahZ said:


> I should have mentioned that the reason I had to be in bed early instead of wandering the FQ or Garden District is that I had to be up at 5:30 to catch the Crescent to DC. That trip report is coming up next.
> 
> Dan - you should see my list. I'm going to have to spend a week there. It's insane. I got a little taste of it while there, and now I want more. If it weren't so hot and humid in the summer, it would make my list of places to live. Maybe, when we're retired, we'll have a winter home there. It's so pretty.


I'd like to do a plantation tour and take a ride on the river boat. But I'd really like to see the WWII museum and spend a good amt of time there.


----------



## hessjm

I had Lala on my last trip to NOLA, she is incredible, always fetching things for passengers - the Trans-dorm isn't even her primary responsibility! As I recall she even kept the coffee going longer than the penny pinching accountants desire!


----------



## caravanman

Another nice report, good pics which remind me of my own visits there. I like the way you put in usefull info for other travellers, like prices, etc.

Ed


----------



## MnMotherMary

Thanks for the wonderful trip report. It really makes me want to go!!!


----------



## JayPea

Great report and pics. The one time I took the CONO to New Orleans I took photos of those same fancy houses in Memphis. I too didn't linger long at the smoke stops in Mississippi; contrary to popular belief Eastern Washington is bone dry most of the year with very low humidity. I'm not used to such humidity. And I too wanted to see alligators in the swamps. No such luck!


----------



## Bob Dylan

For the benefit of those wanting to see Alligators when traveling through the swamps, they are Nocturnal creatures and operate mostly @ night and sleep in the daytime!

When its not too hot they lay in the sun on the bank snoozing, but just like our Northern friends who can't take the heat and humidity, they usually stay in the water and in the shade when its really hot and humid!

Your best bet is to take a Swamp Tour,, the guides know where the Gators are!


----------



## debmep

Thanks Sarah. We sat on the west side both directions, so I loved seeing your photos from the other side. We were in NOLA for less than 48hours before returning to Chicago,

so someday we will return. I can always wish for a bedroom, and not a roomette.


----------



## SarahZ

hessjm said:


> I had Lala on my last trip to NOLA, she is incredible, always fetching things for passengers - the Trans-dorm isn't even her primary responsibility! As I recall she even kept the coffee going longer than the penny pinching accountants desire!


Yes! She had coffee and juice available all day, and she even came around in the morning to let us know when she'd made a fresh pot.


----------



## Railroad Bill

Great report Sarah. Our two trips to NOL were in April (birthdays for us) and October (our anniversary). Jim is correct, best time to go. Smaller crowds and much better weather than summer. No waiting on streetcars or restaurants.

Yes, do the riverboat cruises, Garden District walking tours with cemeteries, and plantation tours.

Really liked the hotel you stayed in. Will have to try that one on our next trip (which I hope will be soon, We Love NOL.


----------



## sniegowskim

What a great trip report and the pictures are great. My Fiance and I are doing this trip in late August and it will be our third time. We Love taking the train and also Love going to New Orleans. Thanks for the great trip report.


----------



## CaliforniaMom

Too bad about your fall, but what a nice lady to come over and help you (and yell at those terrible boys!)

Love the story about the PB&J happy hour!


----------



## SarahZ

PB&J happy hour was awesome!

It made me happy to see a bunch of adults sitting around with PB&J sandwiches and little bottles of milk, like we were all in kindergarten again.


----------



## crescent2

Another great report that makes me want to go back to NOL again!

It's late and I don't have my "eyes" in, so I can't see well enough to know what kind of tree it is that has all the Spanish moss hanging in it. The small pink ones are crape myrtles. They're beautiful this time of year. I think I saw some banana trees in one of your photos, too.

I'm sorry about your tumble and so glad you weren't injured much. The boys should have known better than to act like that.


----------



## ruck

My wife and I have a trip coming up to New Orleans and your report and the included pictures have me looking forward to it even more. Thanks for taking the time and the effort on the report.


----------



## reefgeek

How did I miss this great trip report? Thanks for posting, very enjoyable!


----------



## snowbell

Wow what a great trip report. I *really* want to go visit New Orleans and this trip report was just another reason... Seems like such a nice and friendly place to visit...


----------



## Orie

I love your travel journal Sarah! I'm taking both the Crescent and City of New Orleans in a few months and your reports were amazing for providing information (and being fun to read)!


----------



## SarahZ

Orie said:


> I love your travel journal Sarah! I'm taking both the Crescent and City of New Orleans in a few months and your reports were amazing for providing information (and being fun to read)!


Thanks!

I had a wonderful crew on both trains. I hope you get the same crews.


----------



## George K

Sarah! Thank you for a wonderful report. I am impressed, and I'll send the link to this thread to my wife - she'll be convinced to go to NOLA!


----------



## MnMotherMary

Ok, you convinced me to return to New Orleans. We drove there 11 years ago and you convinced it's time to return the visit by rail in March.

I have learned a lot from all the helpful tips/advice and a few other things on this forum. Plus, I have enough points for a roomette both ways from Minneapolis/St. Paul.


----------



## SarahZ

crescent2 said:


> Another great report that makes me want to go back to NOL again!
> 
> It's late and I don't have my "eyes" in, so I can't see well enough to know what kind of tree it is that has all the *Spanish moss* hanging in it. The small pink ones are crape myrtles. They're beautiful this time of year. I think I saw some banana trees in one of your photos, too.
> 
> I'm sorry about your tumble and so glad you weren't injured much. The boys should have known better than to act like that.


I know it's been forever, but you actually answered my question. 

I thought the Spanish moss was part of the tree, not a separate thing that grows on the tree. My friends just went to New Orleans and talked about it extensively. Their swamp boat guide told them that Spanish moss only grows in areas where the air quality is good, so if you see a lot of it, that means you're in a decent area (as far as pollution is concerned). I also learned that it tends to grow on Southern Live Oaks and Bald Cypress trees.

Anyway, I love the Spanish moss. It's always represented the deep south to me. I hadn't been that far south since our trip to Florida when I was 13, so it was a true joy to see the Spanish moss and swamps again.


----------



## George K

http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g60864-d89091-r325598964-Le_Pavillon_Hotel-New_Orleans_Louisiana.html#


----------



## v v

Sarah, when you return to New Orleans, what is the minimum number of days you would stay next time?


----------



## SarahZ

v v said:


> Sarah, when you return to New Orleans, what is the minimum number of days you would stay next time?


Three full days.

If I arrived early enough the first day and left late enough the last day, two full days might be enough, but I doubt it. There are a lot of things I want to see.


----------



## v v

Thought it might be and a good pointer.

Took a look at the Le Pavillon Hotel for next September or October, no rooms available only a few suites and that included November too, that's one very popular hotel to be booked this far out.


----------



## SarahZ

I'm sorry about your experience, George. I had such a lovely stay, and my (queen bed) room was in tip-top shape. It's really too bad the suite wasn't in great condition, especially considering how much they cost.


----------



## George K

Yes, very popular, with great reviews. Those are the reasons I booked it.

As my review on TripAdvisor says, it's a great place, with great food and services.

I just wish that the furniture had not been threadbare and worn.

However, having said that, the staff in the dining room told me that under new ownership, there is a plan to spend $10,000 _per room_ to rehab the place. That would be great. $10K would buy new desks, chairs, tables and bathroom fixtures - in a heartbeat. Those refurbs would make it a first class hotel.


----------



## SarahZ

I really hope they stick with the period decor, though. 

I didn't get a chance to eat in the dining room. Maybe next time. I really loved that PB&J nighttime snack, though. That was so much fun. I never thought I'd see so many adults sitting around eating PB&J and drinking milk. It was like we were all in kindergarten again.


----------



## George K

I agree, Sarah. It's one of those "one-of" places. I've searched through all the review sites for great "New Orleans-ey" places, and Le Pavillon always comes up high on the list. That's one of the reasons I was disappointed with some of the things I experienced:












If this were a Motel 6 or a Holiday Inn, you'd never go back, would you?

The period decor is a HUGE selling point, and it works.

If this place is refurbished, with furniture and appointments that are up to snuff, it would be absolutely spectacular. I loved the period decor, as did Mrs. George. It was the best. The paintings, the carpets, the curtains were wonderful. 

And, Sarah, you're right. The PB&J buffet is one of those truly special things that makes Le Pavillon a place you want to go back to. That, and the wonderful service and dining.

Fix the furniture, and spiffy up the service and you'll have a wonderful place. Five Stars.


----------

