# Show Us Your Camera!!



## WhoozOn1st (Apr 26, 2012)

Maybe not actually show it - though you could I suppose - but how 'bout telling us what camera you usually use for taking pictures of trains, how it works for you, and why it's your choice.

As the major travel season rolls around for Team Whooz - and lots of other folks, I suspect - I've been kinda dusting off my photography tools and skills that have maybe been getting a little rusty. That got me to wondering about how other AU folks and guests go about their rail photography, beginning with their cameras.

As for myself, I was never much of a camera guy until digital photography came along. Too cheap and too lazy to make a regular habit of buying film, the cost or hassle of processing, printing, and so on. But then I received a hand-me-down Sony Mavica MVC-FD-83 in 2000. A camera so archaic even then that it used floppy disks as it memory/storage medium, it was nonetheless digital, and a revelation (revolution?) to me. No more film hassles, I could shoot all I wanted without shelling out big bucks for film, and I could see the results immediately and redo shots if I didn't like 'em. WOW!

I've been a camera guy ever since, though not as serious, wealthy, or fanatical as some, and certainly not professional.

It wasn't 'til 2004 that I started becoming more involved in rail photography. As part of planning a cross-country, all-Amtrak vacation I bought a Kodak DX6490 camera and a Dell laptop as a sort of matched pair for pursuing photography along the way. That was really the beginning of dedicated rail photography as a hobby for me, and it's a pursuit I continue to enjoy and find rewarding.

No doubt everybody has a good story about how they came to rail photography - pre-digital even - so maybe you'd like to tell your here as well, along with talking about current hardware, its whys and wherefores.

The Kodak EasyShare DX6490 was originally purchased because everything in my research pointed to ease of use, which was pretty important to me, as I considered myself (and rightfully so) pretty much of a digital klutz; not too swift with complex electronics. That, and a 10X optical zoom (excellent at the time), were the main purchase factors, and the camera worked so well for me that when it came time to upgrade I went with another Kodak, the EasyShare Z1015 IS.

Aside from the fact that the 1015's sensor blew out after only 3 months, aboard the California Zephyr while going over the Sierras on the first day of a rail-centric Utah vacation (warranty repair), I was never really happy with its performance. Like the DX6490 it was also simple to use, and for the most part I had no complaints with the photos and videos it turned out. I say for the most part because there were occasions on which it did let me down, for reasons that seemed to have nothing to do with my own ineptitude (always a factor to be considered). There were focus issues like sluggishness, or a strange indecision that made videos useless when the subjects went in and out of focus as the camera couldn't settle on anything. With no real manual option to go to, there were missed or botched shots when the camera wouldn't lock on anything at all.

These cameras were "point-and-shoot," or P&S cameras, in a category that has come to be called "superzooms" or "ultrazooms." (EDIT: Also sometimes called "bridge" cameras, a term I believe is a misnomer, as it implies a middle ground between P&S and DLSR types. Superzooms, for all their features and capabilities, remain squarely in the P&S category due to the small size of their photographic sensors; the heart of digital cameras and the element that collects the light to be processed into a viewable image.) A more advanced - and more expensive - type is the DSLR - Digital Single Lens Reflex - camera, which is also popular for those rail photographers with bigger budgets and who look for attributes beyond those offered by P&S cameras. And of course there are the simple compact and subcompact cameras that many more casual photographers might prefer, those for whom rail photography is more of an incidental thing than a dedicated pursuit. Such cameras might also serve as fine introductory models for those who are interested in trying rail photography as a hobby, but without making a large investment to begin with.

Back on the Whooz front, the Kodak Z1015 was frankly getting on my nerves, especially during the major Ragin' Rails Raid last summer. I was definitely in the market for a replacement, and finally decided on the Canon PowerShot SX40 HS. It's another P&S superzoom, and though I've had it since November there have been no major opportunities to take it trackside and give it a good first workout and get to know the camera better. Soon, though, and thinking about that is what got me thinking about posting this topic to see what others are doing in their photo world as well.

Recently, while looking forward to taking the SX40 out and about bigtime, I started hankering for a smaller, cheaper, camera that I could easily keep with me; a sort of everyday walkaround camera that would maybe help improve and maintain shooting skills without lugging the larger, heavier SX40 all over the place. I chose another Canon, the small and simple A1200. I've been using it for a couple weeks now, and it's working just as intended - I carry it whenever I go out, and when I see something interesting just haul it out of a pocket and snap away. It hasn't been used for any rail photography yet, but as noted at the beginning the major travel season is almost upon us, and I'm thinking the A1200 will come in handy for, say, lesser or simpler shots that don't require the SX40's capabilities.

So show us your camera!! What are you using for shooting trains these days, how does it work for you, and oh yeah, maybe tell us about what kind of camera you'd like to have - a sort of wish thing involving features you'd like to have or be able to afford.








Canon PowerShot SX40 HS. What are YOU using lately?
​


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## amtrakwolverine (Apr 26, 2012)

Sony HD handycam HDR-cx150. shoots full 1080! also takes pictures.

http://reviews.cnet.com/digital-camcorders/sony-handycam-hdr-cx150/4505-6500_7-33960293.html


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## Ryan (Apr 26, 2012)

Great idea for a thread.

DLSR all the way for me. I like the flexibility given by interchangeable lenses and the performance given by the larger sensor size (which in my opinion is the most important camera feature - the bigger the sensor, the more light you're capturing). No shutter lag and multi-frame-per-second are icing on the cake.

Started out with a D60 to see if I was going to use it enough to make paying for a DSLR worthwhile. Took pictures like crazy, and quickly graduated to a higher end D90. That's served me well for at least 2 years, and I have the huge itch to upgrade to full frame. I see a D700 in my future in the next 6 months.

My everyday carry lens is the super awesome 18-200. If I need a little more reach, I also love my 70-300.

For the "little camera" needs, I've found that the camera on my iPhone takes a pretty decent picture, and I've always got it on me.


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## Acela150 (Apr 26, 2012)

I use a Nikon D80. I use a basic 18-55mm and also have a 70-300mm. It's a great camera. Works well. Fits in the camera bag perfect. I also my iPhone 4S as my secondary. It gets 2MP less then the D80 and it's just as good sometimes.


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## jis (Apr 26, 2012)

Nikon D40X with Nikkor AF/S 18-200mm VR lens for serious pictures.


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## JayPea (Apr 26, 2012)

I have a Sony DSC-H20. I would love to get a DSLR, but unfortunately I have to prioritize my spending. Back in the pre-digital era, I had a Sears SLR camera of my dad's that my mom gave me after my dad passed away. I really loved that old SLR camera, with several interchangeable lenses and the ability to hold the shutter down for a long time. I once sat (in my car!) and used that feature to capture lightning for a period of half an hour or so during a storm in Spokane. I also one time set it up on my mom's back porch on a tripod, pointed at the Big Dipper, and let it sit for a couple of hours. You have to trust me when I tell you it's so cool to see a photo of the Big Dipper when the shutter has been open for two hours. :lol: :lol: I'd love to have that feature back. For the time being, my Sony works well for my purposes. It has a multiple variety of settings, a 10X zoom lens, and 10.1 megapixels. I can also change the shutter speed on this camera. I had a couple of Kodak Easy-Share cameras before that, and they weren't nearly so flexible as far as settings were concerned. They weren't much more than point-and-shoot cameras. I chose this camera because it had the features I wanted and because I also have a Sony CCD-TRV138 NTSC camcorder, and I have had very good luck with any Sony product I've owned. As we speak, in fact, I'm in the process of converting all my many, many hours of VHS tapes to DVDs. I film all my Amtrak trips, and any time I get the itch to go on a trip, I just pop in a tape (or, now, a DVD). I've saved thousands of dollars by watching tapes and DVDs instead of going on an actual trip. :lol:


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## CHamilton (Apr 26, 2012)

All of the DSLRs I've seen require two fully-functional hands, which I don't have, so I use the Canon PowerShot SX230 HS. It has quite nice specs for something without interchangeable lenses, including a 14x optical zoom, and is small enough to take anywhere. Its only downside for me is a proprietary battery and charger, which is pretty archaic these days. I bought an extra battery after losing power quite early in a steam trip behind the SP 4449 last summer.

When I was in the market, I did a lot of online research, but then went to my local camera store to try out options in person. This is imperative for me since my physical limitations mean that I just can't operate a lot of cameras due to the placement and size of some of the controls. Here in Seattle, we're lucky to have an excellent, professionally-oriented camera shop called Glazer's Camera, which I highly recommend. They have very knowledgeable staff, and their prices are comparable to the online alternatives. They do sell online, also.

I find, though, that I also take a lot of pictures with my HTC EVO 4G, simply because it's a snap to post them directly to Facebook. The quality isn't bad for many uses, though not anywhere near as good as the Canon.


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## GG-1 (Apr 26, 2012)

CHamilton said:


> When I was in the market, I did a lot of online research, but then went to my local camera store to try out options in person. This is imperative for me since my physical limitations mean that I just can't operate a lot of cameras due to the placement and size of some of the controls. Here in Seattle, we're lucky to have an excellent, professionally-oriented camera shop called Glazer's Camera, which I highly recommend. They have very knowledgeable staff, and their prices are comparable to the online alternatives. They do sell online, also.


Aloha

The quoted paragraph points out the most important aspect of Photography. No matter how good the camera is, it does not make it feel right in your hands, and your comfort/skills is what lets you take a good picture.


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## WhoozOn1st (Apr 27, 2012)

Good early response. Seven cameras so far, so that's only 5,019 more members left to hear from!!



CHamilton said:


> When I was in the market, I did a lot of online research, but then went to my local camera store to try out options in person. This is imperative for me since my physical limitations mean that I just can't operate a lot of cameras due to the placement and size of some of the controls.


This is a crucial issue for Team Whooz Executive Assistant Alice, too, who also must try out cameras in person before reaching a decision. She's in the market right now, and is still doing her online due diligence to winnow the field before heading into stores. Maybe she'll have something to tell us about that, too. For the past several years she's been getting multiple specimens of an out-of-production Sony model because she finds it easiest to work with.

Ryan mentioned his iPhone, CHamiton cited a phone, and that's a category I neglected to mention. Phone cams are becoming more popular as go-to cams as their capabilities improve, and even becoming main cameras for some, cutting into low-end digital camera sales. The phonecam route wasn't an option for me when looking into an everyday camera, since the one in my LG Optimus Slider produces junk shots that are barely worthy of embedding in text messages. Yuck!

So far we're hearing about the cameras themselves, and that's great, but aside from JayPea hardly anything about the way the hardware is used by the software (the owner) for rail photography. Hopefully we'll get some expansion into that area as we go along... And don't be shy about including examples!






This is a high zoom shot from the Kodak Z1015, Fillmore & Western Railway, July 4, 2011. The train is almost a mile away, seen through a break in a river levee. I like the way distance gets compressed in long shots like this, in which the uphill grade facing the oncoming train is emphasized by the compression, and by the viewpoint from down low, near track level.
​


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## Peter KG6LSE (Apr 27, 2012)

two Canon 1D mk2 .

24-85 f3.5 USM2

70-300 f5.6 IS USM

I also tote a 50 mm prime f1.8

The 1st 1D

I have captured lightning from a moving bus.. Crank the daylights out of the ISO and have fun.

photo

photo

The GoPro does some way cool shots for indoor stuff.

photo

....

Peter...

Peter ..


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## lthanlon (Apr 27, 2012)

The digital camera I use most often is on my iPhone. I like how it usually records location. Here's an image I took while on the Texas Eagle last fall.






The film camera I use most is the Lomo LC-A+. Here's a view taken during the Southwest Chief's layover in Albuquerque.






The lenses on both cameras are recessed, so if I'm shooting through a window, I can hold the camera flush with the glass and avoid reflections. The main benefit of the iPhone camera is that it's always with me. I love the quirky distortions introduced by the LC-A+. Another plus for the Lomo is that it can take super-long exposures.


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## JayPea (Apr 27, 2012)

This is a photo taken last spring at a railroad crossing near Ritzville, WA. This is on the old NP route, a heavily used route by BNSF and is also used by the Empire Builder on its Portland run. I was using my Sony camera and using the 10X zoom to its fullest capacity. For some perspective, the elevators in the background are about half a mile or so away.


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## trainman74 (Apr 27, 2012)

I'm not a particularly serious photographer; I use a compact Canon point-and-shoot model, the PowerShot A720IS (wasn't advertised as pocket-size, but it does fit in my jeans). Like Ryan, my "backup camera" is the iPhone.

Both taken with the Canon in Cork, Ireland, earlier this month:


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## WhoozOn1st (Apr 27, 2012)

So far an interesting array of rail and rail-related photos, and an equally interesting array of cameras, including those whooz owners didn't grace us with photo examples. One I find particularly intriguing is Ithanlon's Lomo LC-A+, first because it's a film camera in our digital age (not that there's anything WRONG with that!), second because I'd never heard of the brand before. I wasn't familiar with a number of the models noted, so Googled 'em all to get a clearer picture (rotten pun intended) of what folks were talking about in showing us their cameras. With the Lomo I was starting from scratch, without any idea of what to expect, and came up with this from Wikipedia for starters, though there's plenty more info out there:

"*Lomography* is the commercial trademark of Lomographische AG, Austria for products and services catering to lo-fi photographers. The name is inspired by the former state-run optics manufacturer LOMO PLC of Leningrad (Saint Petersburg), Russia. LOMO PLC created and produced the 35mm LOMO LC-A Compact Automat camera — which became the centerpiece of Lomography's marketing and sales activities. This camera was loosely based upon the Cosina CX-1 and introduced in the early 1980s."






Lomo LC-A+.
​


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## Alice (Apr 28, 2012)

Lomo cameras are spectacular for their rotten optics, impossible to predict how a shot will come out. They are favored by artists. Users can add to the randomness by purchasing expired film from them.


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## CHamilton (Apr 28, 2012)

Alice said:


> Lomo cameras are spectacular for their rotten optics, impossible to predict how a shot will come out. They are favored by artists. Users can add to the randomness by purchasing expired film from them.


Alice, I'd forgotten about Lomography until you mentioned it. Here's a great overview and sample images from Smashing Magazine.



> The characteristics of Lomo photographs are oversaturated colors, extreme optical distortions, rainbow-colored subjects, off-kilter exposure, blurring and alternative film processing, all things usually considered bad in photography. In short, Lomography is the act of taking photographs without thinking, and ignoring the established rules of “good” photography.


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## Ryan (Apr 28, 2012)

Here is a picture of my camera (with me hiding behind it) taken by tracktwentynine.





DSCN7656 by tracktwentynine, on Flickr

He shoots a Nikon P7000(?), and is a constant reminder that you don't need a DSLR to take an excellent photograph.

I also neglected to mention film, I am starting to dip my toes back into that arena with a Nikon N80. No train pictures yet, but here is on of my recent favorites:





Smile! by Ryan Stavely, on Flickr

And a train picture to round out the set. One of the very first I took, back in the days of the D60:





DSC_0050 by Ryan Stavely, on Flickr

This wasn't the shot I had intended, my intention was to focus on the train, but I was still learning to use the camera and it focused on the guy in front of me. Pretty happy with how it came out.


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## MrFSS (Apr 28, 2012)

While I use only digital now, and that has been the case for a number of years, my first camera was a Kodak Pony 135 which I used to take slides. I received this camera in the late 1940's and used it until about 1965 when I purchased my first SLR. Took may train slides with it and fortunately I keep those old slides which have now been digitized and saved at this *LINK*.

Picture of the Pony 135






Taken in Chicago from Roosevelt Rd about 1957.






Taken in Cincinnati about 1955.






Taken in Louisville (my hometown) about 1955.


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## Long Train Runnin' (Apr 28, 2012)

Going for extra credit here. Heres a photo of me and my camera from the 2009 AU Gathering in Boston. Photo credit belongs to member Chuljin.






Although I no longer own the lens shown in that photo.

I have a Nikon D40 and an 18-105VR for everyday use, and when I'm feeling adventurous I have a 70-300VR for the distance stuff. I keep thinking about getting a straight 50mm lens so I can focus more on composition, but I guess I enjoy taking bad pictures


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## amtrakwolverine (Apr 28, 2012)

Also going for extra credit heres a pic of the handycam






and a pic I took with it


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## WhoozOn1st (Apr 29, 2012)

What's this "extra credit" crap!? Nobody's gettin' any extra ANYTHING around here, see? Okay, maybe Long Train cuz he's got a shot of that Boston guy whooz name included "II" and used to post at AU all the time but pretty much disappeared after Gathering III... 

More cool cameras, cool photos, and another nod to film with MrFSS' contribution. Tom also mentions digitizing his slides, and in perhaps expanding the initial scope of this thread maybe he could tell us something about the process. I know _I'd_ be interested! Kinda born into railfanning, I've got a ton of virtually unviewable slides that I'm sure could benefit from DIY digitization. I know he's a Photoshop advocate too, and so might wanna discuss post production and editing as well...

While the focus (so to speak) has been on still photos so far, I wonder how many use the video capabitlities of their cameras as well. Of course there's the Sony camcorder of amtrakwolverine, who extracts stills from a dedicated video machine, and if memory serves I believe Long Train Runnin' has - or had - one of these as well. By the very nature of trains they lend themselves well to video, so are you folks who do the rail video thing multitasking your still rigs, shooting with small camcorders like we've already seen and using them for stills on the side, using mini vidcams like the late, lamented Flip or the Sony Bloggies, or what?

So far we've seen some really nice photo samples from people showing us their cameras. In my first post I complained about focusing problems with the Kodak Z1015, so to balance out all the good stuff we've seen so far here's something rotten! This is an example of the focus hunting I noted - in autofocus video mode the camera can't decide what's what, thereby wrecking an otherwise perfectly good video (and fueling my desire for a new camera):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2MV3NF9v-S4​



Nice, huh? For those who do the video thing, have you ever experienced this phenomenon, and if so how did you deal with it?


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## amtrakwolverine (Apr 29, 2012)

Don't need a dedicated video machine. Any laptop or computer running the sony software that comes with the camera can extract the photos that go to the cameras built in hard drive instead of the SD card. for videos I just upload right to youtube or photo bucket or imageshack right from the card. As for auto focus not much you can do if there is no manual option. I used to use a vivitar vivacam but it fell in a public toilet during a monster truck show and stopped working. I used to have a Kodak easyshare 4MP camera can't remember the model but it stopped turning on. I have a Nikon D60 camera but does not have video capabilities plus it got dropped and the lens does not stay attached(I'm hard on cameras).


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## WhoozOn1st (Apr 29, 2012)

amtrakwolverine said:


> Don't need a dedicated video machine.


All that's meant by "dedicated video machine" is a camera that's primarily designed to shoot video, like a camcorder, that only does still photography as a secondary thing. The opposite would be "dedicated stills machines," I suppose, which do video as a capability secondary to their designed main purpose.


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## Tracktwentynine (Apr 30, 2012)

Ryan said:


> Here is a picture of my camera (with me hiding behind it) taken by tracktwentynine.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks for the compliments, Ryan.

I have had great success with my Nikon P7000, which is a mid-range camera. Larger than a compact, but one I can still fit in a jacket pocket. I like it for its size and flexibility. I generally carry it with me on a day-to-day basis (never know when you're going to need to take a picture!). The best accolade I can give it is that it is super easy to switch into HDR mode. However, I am very disappointed in the speed of the camera. It takes far too long to start and to focus. I've heard these issues have been fixed with the newer (P7100) version. But the performance (or lack of it) was a factor in pushing me back to Canon.

Here are a few photos with my *P7000*:





"Waiting for a Train" - Silver Spring, Maryland [Washington Metro].






(HDR) "Philly Departures" - Philadelphia, Pennsylvania [30th Street Station].

I have recently upgraded to a DSLR (it was a Christmas present). I'm now using a Canon Rebel T3i for when I know I'm going to be out taking photos. I'm still getting used to it, since I've only had a chance to practice on rail fanning/transit fanning trips a few times this year. If anyone has any tips for newbies with DSLRs, I'd love to hear them.

I'm very pleased with the speed. I'm also pretty happy with the ability to play with focal length, though I still need to learn how to do it better.

Here are a few photos with my *Rebel T3i*:






"Moment in the Sun" - Colesville, Maryland [National Capital Trolley Museum].






"Green Reflections" - Tempe, Arizona [uPRR and Metro Light Rail bridges over Tempe Town Lake].

And of course, I use a phone, too. I have an *Android HTC Thunderbolt*, which takes surprisingly good photos.






untitled - Tempe, Arizona [Metro Light Rail]


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## dan72 (May 6, 2012)

I just came across this topic today. I'm in the same boat with Whooz and currently own a Canon SX40. So far, I have been very happy with it. In the past, I had the Canon S5 and upgraded to the SX30 in early 2010, but became frustrated with it as it seemed to be loaded with too many megapixels (14 mp) on a CCD sensor resulting noisy and soft pictures many times (could be operator error, but I was getting nice shots from my s5 previously). The SX40 was switched to a CMOS sensor and dropped to 12 MP which made a huge difference in low light shots and overall sharpness. I did flirt heavily with an SLR--seriously considering the Canon T3i, but I decided that a bridge camera was best for me.

I also loaded the CHDK (Canon Hackers Development Kit) on my SD card which allows me to access other features such as the ability to take RAW photos. If I wish to do star trails, I can set the shutter speed up to 34 minutes. If you have a Canon P&S, be sure to Google CHDK and they website can give you directions on how to install it.

I also have a pocket camera - the Canon ELPH 310HS which has the aforementioned CMOS sensor as well. It's handy to bring when I go to dining car or if I was to take pictures of a train station and want to remain subtle about it.

If you're at all interested, you are welcome to check out my Flickr photostream here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/

Dan


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## WhoozOn1st (May 7, 2012)

dan72 said:


> I also loaded the CHDK (Canon Hackers Development Kit) on my SD card which allows me to access other features such as the ability to take RAW photos. If I wish to do star trails, I can set the shutter speed up to 34 minutes. If you have a Canon P&S, be sure to Google CHDK and they website can give you directions on how to install it.


I've read about CHDK, and the more I read the more intrigued I become, though I remain unsure whether it could really benefit they way I pursue photography. At any rate, while I've had the SX40 since November there's been no extended shooting opportunity to learn the camera better and become fully comfortable with it. I'm quite pleased with the results so far, all from brief outings, but wanna have the machine totally wired before trying something like CHDK.

Some nice work there at Flickr, BTW...


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## dan72 (May 7, 2012)

WhoozOn1st said:


> dan72 said:
> 
> 
> > I also loaded the CHDK (Canon Hackers Development Kit) on my SD card which allows me to access other features such as the ability to take RAW photos. If I wish to do star trails, I can set the shutter speed up to 34 minutes. If you have a Canon P&S, be sure to Google CHDK and they website can give you directions on how to install it.
> ...


Thanks, Whooz! I don't tap into the CHDK very much unless I want a RAW shot or I am doing an extended exposure for star trails. The nice thing about it is that it acts more as a overlay to the current firmware instead of a replacement. Also, you can slide your SD card to 'unlock' and it won't even boot up. Whoever came up with this thing was pure genius. Anyway, I found it gives me some SLR functionality without the SLR prices.

One other item I love about the sx40 is the burst mode. I wish the continuous shoot was a little faster, but the burst mode is great. I used it while foaming a couple of weeks ago and results were impressive. I normally don't upgrade cameras every year, but I'm sure glad I changed up from the SX30.

Anyway, I hope your SX40 works out well for you!

Dan


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## lthanlon (May 8, 2012)

MrFSS said:


> While I use only digital now, and that has been the case for a number of years, my first camera was a Kodak Pony 135 which I used to take slides. I received this camera in the late 1940's and used it until about 1965 when I purchased my first SLR. Took may train slides with it and fortunately I keep those old slides which have now been digitized and saved at this *LINK*.


Wonderful photos! Thanks for sharing these.


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## lthanlon (May 8, 2012)

I'm going to come to the defense of my tragically hip Lomo LC-A+. Contrary to what some here have stated, the camera does not have a crappy lens, nor does it routinely introduce bizarre colors and suffer from exposure issues. In fact, my LC-A and LC-A+ produce some of the most consistently on-target exposures of any camera I own.

Much of the Lomo mystique comes from an attitude that traditional rules of composition, exposure and focus can be ignored -- and even embraced as wonderfully creative accidents. I don't necessarily agree with this idea, but am willing to accept creativity whatever its form. In addition, many Lomo photographers shoot slide film and then cross process in standard C-41 color negative chemistry, or use redscale film and expose through the base instead of the emulsion. Both techniques can produce extreme vignetting and unexpected color shifts.

Here's an example of cross processing in an LC-A+ plus view of Crown Hill's Tower of Memories in Wheat Ridge, Colorado:







You can also get interesting results from redscale film, too. Here are examples of redscale, taken with an LC-A+ on the California Zephyr in Illinois:











Here are a few shots that show how the LC-A and LC-A+ can take plain old ordinary images. The first shows the characteristic distortion of parallel lines:


























Finally, here's an example of a low-light exposure:


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## CHamilton (May 16, 2012)

If anyone is in the market for a new camera, I thought this article, with some specific recommendations, might be of interest.

The best camera bargains right now



> For the most part, the digital-camera landscape is mapped out in $200 increments. Every $200 you're willing to spend represents a nice step up in camera capabilities.
> 
> Here's how it generally shakes out: For $200, you'll find basic, pocketable point-and-shoots with decent image quality, automated controls, and little else other than a range of color options. For $400, you'll get an "advanced" fixed-lens camera with manual controls, a wide-aperture lens, and a RAW-shooting mode. $600 buys you a ticket to entry-level DSLR land. If you step up to $800, you can get a mid-range DSLR or a premium mirrorless camera with a faster shooting speed, higher ISO, and more-granular manual controls. At $1000 and up, the sky's the limit in terms of APS-C-sensored DSLRs, but you'll still need to spend a bit more to get a full-frame DSLR.


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## WhoozOn1st (Aug 31, 2012)

Thread Expansion Alert!

Since starting this topic I've had great opportunities to get out and about with the Canon SX40 HS, becoming much more familiar with the camera along the way. Because it's not a DSLR or other type of interchangeable lens camera (it's a high-end point-and-shoot "superzoom" compact in the current lingo) I knew going in that it's limited from an optical standpoint.

But it does have a hot shoe for external flashes or other attachments, and it does have a bayonet mount, which opens things up a bit. So I got to wondering and reading about what options I might have for attachments, tools, gizmos, devices, and what have you that I might use in the endless quest (okay, desperate attempt) to improve my train photography.

Maybe others have things they use and do that they'd be willing to share here as well.

The bayonet mount is basically a pair of wide notched fittings on the front of the lens barrel that allows stuff to be stuck on the end. First thing I got to put on the bayonet mount was a lens hood, which helps cut down on flare - unwanted light - when I'm trying to shoot close to the sun's direction (not unusual when trying to photograph moving trains - or from aboard them for that matter). Thinking more about unwanted light, I started reading about polarizing filters. Now I've known about polarized lenses about as long as I've known about sunglasses. And I'd heard about 'em in photography but didn't know much (which hasn't really changed). I found that digital camera focusing and metering systems require circular - as opposed to linear - polarizing filters.

Once I decided to try a circular polarizing filter the issue became how to put it on the camera. No mounting threads like a DSLR, and no polarizing filters with bayonet mounts, so I had to find a bayonet-to-threads adapter. Recommendations and prices were all over the map. I went with Canon's recommended specs for the model (though other sized ones claimed to also fit), but not their high price for the part, and found a 3rd party 67mm filter adapter for pretty cheap, and an inexpensive circular polarizing filter to use on it. Polarizer prices were also all over the map but I went cheap, figuring that if I like the way it works I can shell out and step up.

Mounting was easy, and the polarizer works well in test shooting, which is all I've had a chance to do so far. Looking forward to getting trackside with my new toy soon! It really cuts haze and enhances color saturation, especially skies, just as advertised. Oh yeah: The adapter's gonna remain mounted so the polarizer can be a quick on/quick off deal. That meant a new lens cap to fit the adapter, and a new (better) lens hood as well. EDIT: The new lens hood is threaded to attach to the adapter, or to the polarizing filter if that is also mounted; old hood uses the bayonet mount.

On another front, one ongoing problem I seem to have is getting pictures level. Sometimes that's no big deal, but crooked can really wreck pics like, say, a landscape view of a whole train or a side-on, roster-type shot of a locomotive. Yeah, I know most editing software can rotate, but that's a pain in the patoot I'd rather head off with the camera before lopsided happens.

Team Whooz Executive Assistant Alice has been using a little bubble level device that screws into the tripod mounting hole on the bottom of her Sony compact (now in the process of being replaced by a new Fujifilm X10). It's worked well for her, but I didn't wanna be taking my eye off the electronic viewfinder and looking down at the level before pressing the shutter button every time. Critical moments lost and the train gets away, shot missed while checking for level.

Still, the crooked shot issue was bugging me so bad that I almost caved and got a level like Alice's. While looking around online for one, though, I ran across another option: a hotshoe-mounted level!

Once again, as seems to be the case with ALL photo accessories, prices were all over the map; a number of different desgns, too. And once again I cheaped out, using the same rationale as for the polarizing filter. Unlike the polarizer, though, I haven't had a chance to really use the level at all yet.

In the original post of this thread I mentioned that I'd picked up a Canon A1200 as a cheap-o cheap-o, everyday walking around kinda camera, and that it was working just fine for its intended use. To update that a bit, the little A1200 has performed above and beyond expectations, turning out some perfectly acceptable - even surprisingly good - nonrail scenery shots during Team Whooz forays. It got heavy use at the Grand Canyon, as well as Zion National Park, Arches National Park, Valley of Fire state park in Nevada, plus northern California, Washington state, and the Oregon coast. A real workhorse!






Canon A1200, off topic at Valley of Fire state park in Nevada on 5-24-12 while returning from South By Southwest Chief.
​



So does anybody else out there in Amtrak Unlimited Photoland wanna share their ideas, suggestions, tips, recommendations, or just plain old stories about photo accessories, gizmos, and all that? And of course it's never too late to go with the title of the thread and Show Us Your Camera!!






You can sort of see the bayonet mount if you look closely: low stretches around the top and bottom edge of the lens barrel, by the printing, and little centering notches on the sides. Attachments go on sideways, then twist into place.
​





Hotshoe-mount level. On the above camera the hotshoe is covered by a rubber cap on the electronic viewfinder housing.
​





​
Tripod-mount level similar to the one Alice uses.
​


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## amtrakwolverine (Aug 31, 2012)

For the sony handycam I have a slik monopod 5337 http://www.amazon.com/Slik-Pod-Monopod-Head-Quick-Release/dp/B00009MKHA

and a smaller slik insta-lok T-210 can't find a picture of it online.

and for show us your camera I have acquired a Kodak easyshare MD81 12MP camera for free.


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## CHamilton (Sep 11, 2012)

There's a very nice introductory post on CHDK (mentioned by dan72 above) at the Lifehacker blog.

Unlock the Secret “Pro” Features of Your Canon Point-and-Shoot with CHDK


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## dan72 (Sep 13, 2012)

Whooz

I feel your pain on keeping pictures level. I've dealt with the same thing. Canon does have a nice grid that comes up both in the EVF and the back screen which have made a huge difference for me in leveling out shots. As CHamilton pointed out, CHDK also has several grids that you can pull up. In fact, some of them look like you should be shooting a missile instead of a pictures.

As far as filter adapters for the SX40, I've used the one made by Lensmate: http://www.lensmateonline.com/store/sx20sx10sx1.php It's a 58mm but have had very little problems with vignetting. They also make it out of a softer plastic so it won't wear and tear on the lens barrel. Another great item is the lens pedal hood that can bayonet on the barrel as well (but not with a filter). Those are pretty common on ebay and amazon.

I used to use a polarizing filter more on my old S5, but I have found that if you set the sx40 to 'P' and then set it to bring out the color blue, it really brings out the sky and water. With that, I find I don't need to polarizing filter quite so much. But, I still use ND filters for water shots.

Glad to hear the sx40 is still working out for you. Still liking mine. Even if Canon upgrades this year, I'll still sticking with it!

Dan


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## WhoozOn1st (Sep 15, 2012)

dan72 said:


> Whooz
> I feel your pain on keeping pictures level. I've dealt with the same thing. Canon does have a nice grid that comes up both in the EVF and the back screen which have made a huge difference for me in leveling out shots. As CHamilton pointed out, CHDK also has several grids that you can pull up. In fact, some of them look like you should be shooting a missile instead of a pictures.


The EVF (electronic viewfinder) grid does indeed work well - *IF* I remember to use it in the "heat of the moment," when trying to balance all other factors of an often fast-changing shooting environment. Still don't know if the level mounted on the hotshoe will help on that front either. And I've seen screenshots of CHDK grids - some of which look straight out of GamerLand. Unfortunately I think CHDK is out for me. Too complex for my small brain, and certainly one of two things would explode upon trying it: the camera or my head. EDIT (about the 5th so far): Back LCD screens are usually only used when shooting with somebody else's camera ("Will you take a picture of us?").



> As far as filter adapters for the SX40, I've used the one made by Lensmate: http://www.lensmateo...sx20sx10sx1.php It's a 58mm but have had very little problems with vignetting. They also make it out of a softer plastic so it won't wear and tear on the lens barrel. Another great item is the lens pedal hood that can bayonet on the barrel as well (but not with a filter). Those are pretty common on ebay and amazon.


The 67mm adapter I purchased at Amazon (before they started collecting taxes from Californians!) works fine at about half the price of the lensmate model (Mr. Cheapo strikes again), but the one you linked would certainly be a fine choice as well. With the polarizer mounted there's barely noticeable vignetting at full wide, where I rarely shoot, and that's easily croppable. For those who might be unfamiliar with the term, vignetting is when the barrel or sides of the lens become visible, resulting in dark corners in the image. It's something to be aware of and try to avoid, especially for those who don't usually edit their photos (and most people don't, just like most people with DSLRs never remove the kit lens that came with the camera). EDIT: Oh, and I do have a non-adapter petal lens hood. It was another instance of finding a 3rd party item that works at Amazon for a LOT less than Canon charges for virtually the same thing with their name on it (About $8 vs. about $25 in this case, IIRC).



> I used to use a polarizing filter more on my old S5, but I have found that if you set the sx40 to 'P' and then set it to bring out the color blue, it really brings out the sky and water. With that, I find I don't need to polarizing filter quite so much. But, I still use ND filters for water shots.


While I've not tried an ND (neutral density) filter, that remains under consideration, with the split versions kind of intriguing. When you mentioned water shots I wracked the small brain trying to think of any I'd done, and couldn't come up with any aside from test shots using the polarizer. EDIT (up to 6 now for one lousy post!): Remembered a water shot, and a really recent one at that (see below). Not sure a neutral density filter woulda helped under the conditions (end edit). Nice idea about setting for blue in P (Program), and it's something I'll have to try, though most of my shooting is done in shutter priority ("Tv" on the Canon) mode.






Water shot: Oregon Coast Scenic Railway runs northbound on a causeway across a lagoon beside highway 101 between Garibaldi and Rockaway Beach, Oregon.
​



One thing about modes that I wanna mention for all Valued Readers: Don't forget to check your settings before you start shooting. I just finished editing some Team Whooz pics, and was appalled at a greenish/yellowish cast in my shots. Turned out I'd had the camera in "Auto," (how it got there is beyond me) - and obviously carelessly left it there. I NEVER shoot in Auto and woulda changed it immediately had I realized. Just plain nuts. Executive Assistant Alice's photos are much more accurate, colorwise:

Astoria Riverfront Streetcar, 7-18-12

The weird cast was reduced somewhat in editing, but needn't have occurred in the first place if I'd been more careful about the camera's setting before - and even during - shooting.



> Glad to hear the sx40 is still working out for you. Still liking mine. Even if Canon upgrades this year, I'll still sticking with it!


Yeah, I keep reading rumblings about an SX50, but who needs it? One camera at a time, and I'd like to get the '40 wired before thinking about any upgrades! Thanks, dan72, for sharing ideas and your experience.






Sometimes the grid in the SX40's electronic viewfinder works just fine for leveling, as here when Oregon Coast Scenic Railway (ex-McCloud River Railroad) No. 25 was standing still at Rockaway Beach, Oregon.
​


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## dan72 (Sep 17, 2012)

Nice shots, Whooz! I hear you on the Cheapo route with stuff. The Lensmate has been my only spurge. Everything else has been ebay bought - especially batteries. Canon is highway robbery for extra batteries. One thing that ticked me off was when I upgraded my the sx30, part of my sick and twisted thinking was 'oh I can reuse the batteries.' WRONG! They went with a slightly smaller battery for the sx40. Grr.

And yes, Auto can be problematic. One thing that the SX30 taught me was get off Auto and learn how to use the stinking thing. Although better on the sx40, I still use 'P' or 'M' as much as I can.

Here's a shot I took using an ND4 filter last year at Shepherd's Dell in the Columbia River Gorge in Oregon.

http://big47little47.blogspot.com/2011/07/amtrak-to-pacific-northwest-part-iv.html

It's a fun filter to experiment with. Later on at Multnomah Falls, I rushed to get a shot of a UP train passing by with teh falls in the background only to realize all too late I forgot the take the filter off. Ooops. Needless to say, that blurry mess will not see an upload button.

Here's a shot of the Empire Builder in Red Wing, MN using the 'Blue' setting on 'P'





Also, to show how it picks up on water, here is Soo Line 2719 coming into Duluth last weekend.





Anyway, I ramble on. I hope our paths (or tracks) cross someday and we have a chance to banter around about camera's in person!

Dan


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## WhoozOn1st (Sep 25, 2012)

dan72 said:


> Nice shots, Whooz! I hear you on the Cheapo route with stuff.


Thanks for the compliment, and thanks for sharing the links with your own cool work. I've been lucky enough to catch heritage-painted Amtrak P42 No. 156 myself in various environments, and of course I'm always partial to steam photos.

Packing up the SX40 and the A1200 now for a cross-country modified loop jaunt that includes the Amtrak Unlimited 6th Annual Gathering at Philadelphia, as well as rail action in other cities, so I think there's some good shooting in my immediate future. And maybe some photo issues to post about en route, like how to deal with the eternally maddening Sightseer Lounge glare...






No. 156 and the Pacific Railroad Society's Diamond Jubilee Special getting wyed at Bakersfield, California, 4-3-11.
​


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## Misty. (Sep 25, 2012)

The current cameras are my iPhone 4 and a Casio Exilim EX-ZS5






Examples from each - iPhone:





Untitled by MistyOLR AKA icebratrpg (Chicago fangirl), on Flickr

Casio





Untitled by MistyOLR AKA icebratrpg (Chicago fangirl), on Flickr

I still maintain that my best camera was my Samsung SL202, though, if only because I still consider this my best picture ever:





Untitled by MistyOLR AKA icebratrpg (Chicago fangirl), on Flickr


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## amtrakwolverine (Sep 25, 2012)

For extra credit heres what the pictures look like that the kodak takes
















compared to the nokia X2-01 cell phone I have


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## WhoozOn1st (Sep 27, 2012)

MistyOLR said:


> The current cameras are my iPhone 4 and a Casio Exilim EX-ZS5


So how come you didn't get it in pink?


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## Carolyn Jane (Oct 2, 2012)

Like Whooz, I started out with a Kodak, one generation up...the DX7590. It is still looking at me from the top of the computer desk. I would still be using it if it had a wider angle lens. I moved up strictly with Kodak (I also own the Z1015IS) until Pentax came out with a 'bridge' camera. I bought the x70 three years ago, but it is in the shop have a vignetting problem addressed. When I had film SLRs, it was Pentax all the way. I refuse to go back to carrying all that stuff around. I also used a Lumix ZS8 until it got stuff on the sensor, and I replaced it with a Lumix ZS19. Here are some shots taken with it:





















Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad in Chama, NM






Silver Meteor & freight






Silver Meteor


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## GG-1 (Nov 7, 2012)

Aloha

Thought you might like to read this Article about buying a Camcorder. This publication is well respected by prows in the industry.


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## WhoozOn1st (Nov 12, 2012)

GG-1 said:


> This publication is well respected by prows in the industry.


Prow in the industry:


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## leemell (Nov 12, 2012)

WhoozOn1st said:


> GG-1 said:
> 
> 
> > This publication is well respected by prows in the industry.
> ...


:giggle:


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## shinkansen (Nov 23, 2012)

While at work, it's a Nikon D3s and a D4 all the way. When the day is over, it's a Fuji X100 and an X-Pro1. Though I have to admit, I have had fun the past two years with an iPhone and Hipstamatic.


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## Devil's Advocate (Dec 20, 2012)

My first experience with a "real" camera was a brand new Pentax SF10. That was not the original target of our interest but stackable discounts that brought the cost down to around half the original price and the work of a true salesman changed our mind. It may not look like much today, but it was really cool and complicated compared to everything we had ever used before it. We knew what it could do before we bought it because the sales guy spent nearly an hour going over all the options and showing us how to access them. I'll admit up front that I never quite figured out how to work every setting in manual mode, largely because the conventional film developing process created too long of a delay between composition and result to easily associate good or bad photos with their original settings and also because the camera's electronics already did such a great job in automatic and hybrid modes.











After years of random but enjoyable film photography I eagerly awaited digital photography.

Early digital cameras were expensive, had extremely low resolutions compared to even the most basic film cameras, and didn't have any way to see your work until you uploaded your photos to a computer or had them printed out.

As digital cameras quickly improved I tried numerous brands.

Olympus, Fuji, HP, Kodak, Nikon, Canon, you name it.

Eventually I settled on a basic introductory DSLR from Canon called the the Rebel XT in the US or the 350D in Europe or the Kiss DN in Asia.











^ It may not look like much today, but Canon's RXT blew my point-and-shoot mind when I first started playing with it.

It seemed like a good value back then, and honestly I still think it was. The only problem with the RXT was that I wasn't quite ready for it. Like every other SLR system the camera body is just the beginning of what is likely to be a long and involved process of determining a set of applicable lenses, finding them at a reasonable price, and learning how to get the most out of them once they're in your possession.

You'll probably spend a lot more on those lenses than the camera body, regardless if you buy good glass from the beginning or because you bought bad glass and had to replace it after the fact. You'll also want name brand batteries, grips, flashes, and and other accessories that can easily cost double or triple the commodity maker prices. That was not something I was fully aware of up front and ending up with lousy glass and and sub-par accessories left a bad taste in my mouth.

In addition to that I didn't realize how much of a role post-processing can play in the final result. If you add up everything you need to get what you want out of even a basic model like the RXT the total cost of ownership can rise from an initial $500 purchase to well over $2,000 without any effort at all. If you bought low grade glass and no-name accessories first you can add another $1,000 on top of that which are difficult to resell to anyone but other newbies.

That's why I don't begrudge anyone who hasn't stepped up to the DSLR market. It's a huge undertaking in both time and money. If photography is only a minor hobby for you then a manual setting camera with a single purpose-built lens is probably your best bet. Chances are you won't need to change lenses anyway unless you have really specific demands that can only be met with special purpose glass and/or a fast aperture.

Most of my EF lenses and various accessories are gone now. My RXT is tied to a single EFS IS 17-85. It's nothing special but it allows me to take photos that won't work on a phone.






Speaking of phones, I previously used an HTC EVO 4G as mentioned by another member.






The HTC EVO 4G was a great phone for its time. WiMax 4G speeds were amazing back in the 3G era and were even powerful enough for large uploads and downloads to a tethered PC or other device. Not quite enough RAM and CPU power for today's software, but back then it was amazingly versatile. Unfortunately, even though the EVO had the same 8MP as my RXT the optics and sensor were terrible in my view. I could never get a quality photo out of my EVO. It also had terrible battery life. To get a full day's worth of active use without charging I had to use two 3000mah batteries which was a major PITA.

I still have my EVO 4G for basic tasks. It can handle even the latest 64GB memory cards and play all the music, movies, books, and photos you'd need to pass the time. It also works as a GPS and anything else that doesn't require an active data connection.

Today my active phone is a Samsung Galaxy S III. It lasts a whole day (and night) with a single 4000mah battery and takes great pictures compared to nearly every other phone I've had, including some models of iPhone.






On a recent trip to a beach resort 10,000 miles away I made a last minute purchase of one of those new fangled water resistant cameras.






That was a fun experiment, and it worked out well. Two weeks in it was my time to leave but my friend was going to stay for another two or three weeks. Her own underwater camera had failed and the camera I had snagged at a steep discount for $120 in the US was going for closer to $240 in Asia, so I left my camera with her.

For the most part I've been content with what I have, but none of it is really geared toward my next interest. Namely, my growing curiosity of videography. So when I saw a popular performer able to handle high-rate video that could be purchased at half of the original price once the newest version came out I decided to pull the trigger. But that's a story for another time.


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## degermark (Dec 30, 2012)

I've recently purchased my first mirrorless camera, the Nikon 1 J1, with 10mm, 10-30mm and 30-110mm lenses. It's my first step up from point and shoot cameras and I'm concentrating on learning it's capabilities before making my most ambitious Amtrak trip to date in April from Chicago to Sacramento on the CZ and then in June from Pasco to Chicago on the Empire Builder prior to returning to my "home" near Frankfurt, Germany. I'll also be using the cameras on my iPod Touch. I'll check back in in May and let you know how the J1 is working out, after trying it on the Rockies, Monument Valley, Yosemite and other locations while riding Amtrak. Now back to the "How To" book.


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## WhoozOn1st (Dec 30, 2012)

degermark said:


> Now back to the "How To" book.


Nice to hear of someone whooz taking the time and making the effort to learn their camera's capabilities. I've come across too many who have taken "point and shoot" so literally that they weren't even pressing the shutter button halfway to let the autofocus work before taking a shot. Then they wonder what's wrong with their camera that all its pics turn out blurry.

Have fun riding and shooting with your new Nikon!


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## Acela150 (Jan 20, 2013)

Ok so the tides have turned in Acela150's world. As I have recently took ownership of a Nikon D5100. Haven't been able to go taking pictures of trains yet but it seems much much better then my D80.


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## Ryan (Jan 20, 2013)

Congrats, that's a quality upgrade!


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## Acela150 (Jan 22, 2013)

Ryan said:


> Congrats, that's a quality upgrade!


Ryan it truly is. Just taking pictures around the house I notice some major differences. I'm truly impressed. I like how it has a screen I can use to take photos and videos or use the viewfinder. I got a good deal on it too. Still gotta work some of the kinks out but once I get it working I think it'll be easier to use then my D80.


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## Devil's Advocate (Jan 22, 2013)

So when are we going to start posting photos of the trains themselves and discussing our experiences?

Did I miss that thread or have we yet to start one?


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## GG-1 (Jan 22, 2013)

Devil's Advocate said:


> So when are we going to start posting photos of the trains themselves and discussing our experiences?
> Did I miss that thread or have we yet to start one?


Aloha

As the first message in this thread states. This thread is for the discussion of how to get pictures of train subjects. This includes safety while getting these pictures. The feeling at the time we started this thread was the picture results belong in the appropriate threads. Pictures in this thread really should be to develop photographic technique.


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