# Chicago to Reno, Zephyr was a breeze...(mostly!)



## caravanman (Sep 9, 2014)

I arrived in Chicago by Cardinal Amtrak train after 24 hrs from Washington D.C. on Labour day, Monday 1st Sept 2014.

Although I have stayed at the Chicago HI hostel before, I could not remember the bus number, and being too smart for my own good, I had not bothered to print off the hostel guide info. I asked a driver and he gave me some directions, but after a long wait for a bus that never came, probably due to the holiday, I walked there from the Union station.

Mostly I like to travel light, with just a small carry on case and a shoulder bag. Due to the boat crossing, I had to bring extra clothes to dress up a bit, so with two rather full cases and the shoulder bag, I looked a bit homeless as I staggered along, red eyed from the fairly sleep deprived train ride... how quickly my posh cruise persona has decayed!

Too early to check in, but left my big bags at the reception and took a slow wander up to the lake area. My favourite Indian eatery near the hostel had closed, but I enjoyed a Chinese meal.

The hostel has improved some room options, and my room had only 4 bunks, two young Austrian guys were there already when I checked in, polite, but rather boring to me, and I am sure their feelings were similar towards myself! We were joined by an interesting German guy, who was into martial arts, and wanted to buy an old car to tour around... he amused me with his story of spending most of the next day being chauffeured around in a police car. It seems he was in a dodgy area and asked a cop for advice, and they took him around to keep him safe! He gave up looking in the end and just decided to hire.

Rather unusually for me, I did not take any bus or train rides at all when in Chicago. The weather was nice and sunny, with the exception of one half day, so I just wandered around. I took a self guided tour and also the hostel architecture tour. One bonus of the later was having a rather good, obscure middle eastern restaurant pointed out... best food since I got here




Met Steve at the hostel, an English guy in his early 50’s who had sold up and was travelling the world. Impressive guy, been just about everywhere! we had a look at a few of Chicago’s gems together and I picked his brains about cheap travel... seems couch surfing and hitching is the way to keep costs down... probably not my style though. His daily budget is around $50, to include everything!

Took in a bit of classical music with a free concert at the culture centre, and also viewed photos at the library... The library exhibition was of informal street photos taken by a children's nanny in the 1950’s, they only came to light years after she died.

Finished off an interesting book by an Indian author, fictional but realistic short stories about the everyday struggles of the lower castes in India. To be honest, quite a few hours passed sitting in the sunshine reading, over my four days in Chicago!




The train to Reno leaves Chicago at 2pm, so plenty of time to pack and get ready on the Friday morning, 5th Sept. Even had time to enjoy a last wander along the lakefront near the hostel.

Not quite so well prepared, food wise, for my train ride from Chicago to Reno, but brought along some hard boiled eggs, tomatoes, tinned fish, and some cookies, together with a gallon bottle of spring water.

Bus this time to the station, my first and last ride in Chicago. Arrived in the departure area just as the announcement about seniors, etc was being made, so stepped up sharply and got 2nd place in the line!

I was the 1st person to find my coach, and was allocated the bulkhead window seat, all good for me. Big morose guy sits down next to me, why do I get the ones who won’t talk? To add to the immediate negative vibes, the seats behind are taken by a young family where the mom has no apparent interest in her young kids, communicating with them only to say “shut up”! when they start whining, and boy do they whine... I don’t think I heard one laugh or happy chuckle from anyone behind, kids or adults, just constant bickering or threats of a slap. Apart from everyone around my seat being silent, or crying, or shouting, it was all set to be a wonderful trip...

We were about 20 minutes late departing Chicago, and once my ticket was scanned I

decided to grab a hot dog from the cafe, sat in the observation lounge car for quite a while and talked to a retired English guy, one of 4 friends now going as far as Denver by train. He had expected to go through to Salt Lake city on the train , but one of the wives had claustrophobia, and refused to endure the 10 minutes inside the 6 miles long Moffat tunnel!

A little later I got into a long conversation with a gent sat nearby, who was attending an organic farm tour in Denver. He lives in Colby, Wisconsin, and is part of the Mennonite community. They farm organically and produce organic maple syrup. He has given me his address and invited me to stay there for a few days. I am pretty keen to take up this amazing offer if I can manage to fit it in. Mennonites are similar to Amish, and although they too only drive horse and buggy’s they are a little less strict, as far as I can make out... no beards either.

　

My window seat in coach gradually turned from a bonus viewing point into a semi-prison with the big guy in the aisle seat sleeping and blocking me in. Added to the harsh wailing and nasty language from behind too, I resolved to try and sleep the night in the lounge car.

This worked out quite well, the train crew were quite happy, many passengers spent the night there, the early arrivals slept on seats (inc me!), those later lay on the floors next the windows.

Surprisingly, there were even two ladies from the sleepers, who found it better than whatever arrangements they had... I think they just wanted to get away from the rest of the family!

One young guy had been rather noisy with drink and/or drugs, he soon fell asleep, but awoke later and seemed very much the worse for wear... was sick, staggered about, even fell down the stairs to the cafe car. We were stopped in Lincoln station, fortunately, and the conductor phoned for medical and police to remove him from the train. I was rather surprised when a fire engine arrived first, but they do medical as well as fires here, unlike in the U.K. I told them the guy fell and may have banged his head, and I heard later that he was taken to hospital. He went with just his stuff from the lounge car, so I guess his belongings ended up at the end of the line... The crew did a good job on cleaning up, lounge smelt even fresher than before!

I had noticed the drunk guy talking to an older male passenger earlier, so next morning when I saw the older guy I mentioned the events of the night, but he professed to know nothing. Strangely though, he then asked me to take his money and buy him a beer and a short from the cafe car. I declined, and he went down himself... first ones of his day at 6.30am! I imagine he had encouraged the other guy to drink too much, but who knows?

The station in Denver has been re-vamped, and the conductor said Denver folk were pleased with the improved interconnected transit hub, and the airport light rail line, which was under construction, would also connect there. What a novel idea... different modes of transport all connecting... can it ever catch on???




There were several interesting looking passengers, I liked one guy’s hat and natty sartorial

get up, but I never got round to asking him what his story was...




It was quite misty in Denver, apparently that was pretty rare, it soon cleared as we headed up into the mountains. I resolved not to take photos this day, I have so many from earlier Zephyr trips. I think there is something about taking pics that stops one really living in the moment oneself, although the urge to capture and share is never far away.

Very impressive views both below and above as the train climbs. We were already a mile above sea level in Denver, and yet the mountains soar high above still.

Met an interesting English girl who was rather fun, an illustrator, she sees herself of no fixed abode, and has recently enjoyed living in Italy and Spain. She likes train travel and said that taking the Zephyr trip in coach was one main reason for being in America.

The following night was spent in the lounge too, which had far fewer takers this night.

I did get my camera out for a few shots of the canyon scenery on the last day, very hard to convey the sheer scale of these rocks!




As I did not use the diner at all, I asked an older American couple for their thoughts, they felt the food was adequate, given the limited kitchen facilities. I just had a couple of hot dogs and several coffee's from the cafe car to augment my own food supply. The cafe car attendant was "ok", not friendly, not unfriendly, not talkative, just doing his job in a slightly resigned fashion.

To sum up my ride, the Zephyr remains a stunning visual treat from Denver westwards, and is good value in coach at around $160 Chicago to San Francisco. If you make the effort, you can meet many interesting people too. For myself, now age 62, I am probably getting a bit old for the overnights in coach, or the lounge. I felt pretty tired after two nights of poor sleep, and it makes me think I need to alter my plans for some of the longer train rides... Amtrak has not changed, it's me! There were no problems with any of the onboard train services, although I find the air con tends to be a bit on the cold side for my comfort.

We were about 3 hours late into Reno, the young girl illustrator rushed up to me and gave me a big goodbye hug, saying she thought I was awesome, which cheered me up no end... who knows, she might be correct!

My Reno hotel is right across the street from the Amtrak station, and they were able to find me a room on the 20th floor to check in even that early, so I took a much needed long hot shower and crawled into bed for a few hours rest, reflecting that this is the first proper bedroom to myself since I got to America, 12 days ago. The joys of budget travel!

Some more pics... https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152702338284120.1073741834.682004119&type=1&l=0b8d62f8af

(more to follow...)

Ed


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## greatcats (Sep 9, 2014)

Excellent writeup, Ed! I drove through Reno less than two weeks ago. Are you coming down this way and then going to the Gathering, or coming east after that time in SF?


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## Bob Dylan (Sep 9, 2014)

Nice pics Eddie! And running into so many Brits and Europeans must mean that this is a good time for budget travelers to come to the Colonies and tour via Train and stay in hostels!

Spending a few daysin CHI without riding on trains and buses is awesome, you must still be in better shape than you think! ( 62 is just a kid!!!)

Looking forward to your future adventures and to seeing you again in the Bay Area for the Gathering!


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## caravanman (Sep 9, 2014)

Hi,

Thanks fo the nice comments.

It is my intention to go from Reno to Sacramento this Thursday, then on the Sunday will go to Las Vegas. (cheap hotel again!)

I intend to come to Flagstaff soon after Vegas, but might go down to san Diego first. I will coordinate in detail once I have the broader plan figured out!

Cheers,

Ed.


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## oregon pioneer (Sep 9, 2014)

Loving your installments, Ed!

Our Mennonites around here drive Subarus and pickup trucks, so you see, they come in all flavors! The women still must wear dresses and cover their hair, but the dresses may range to denim skirts, the hair coverings can be mere handkerchiefs, and the footwear is often ankle sox and tennis shoes (the "sporty Mennonite" look).


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## City of Miami (Sep 9, 2014)

Where is the 'rather good, obscure middle eastern restaurant' in Chicago - and name if you remember? I'll be there a couple days end of next month and visit it. I found a doozy in Bethesda - Persian cuisine. Thanks for your efforts in posting to us,


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## Railroad Bill (Sep 9, 2014)

Continuing to enjoy your adventures on and off the trains. As another 62 year old, I must say you are quite the Bohemian for riding coach across the country.  My days of overnight coach riding have been gone for several years now. Glad you have met some interesting people along the way and enjoying the CZ scenery. Just a few weeks more and we will be heading out on the CZ for the Gathering. Looking forward to seeing you again and hoping your future adventures prove to be enlightening.


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## Swadian Hardcore (Sep 9, 2014)

Hey man, welcome to Reno! Hope your stay is great.


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## bobnjulie (Sep 9, 2014)

More great pictures! Thanks for sharing!


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## Notelvis (Sep 10, 2014)

Great pictures and thanks for the report. The CZ is my favorite Amtrak route for a number of reasons...... some sentimental.


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## caravanman (Sep 10, 2014)

Thanks for the feedback.

I will look up the restaurant info and post that tomorrow, just in a nice Russian owned cafe enjoying a cardomon coffee and free internet.

I like the idea that Menonite folk evolve, it seems a denial of the force of nature if cultures just stay the same... although choosing not to go with the crowd can be positive evolution too!

Ed


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