# Using trains in Scotland and England. OK, but not memorable.



## greatcats (Apr 8, 2014)

I have just returned to Arizona on United Airlines last night from London on United Airlines, having flown to Edinburgh. I have good things to say about the airline, except that I just wrote them commenting on the two loud and foulmouthed drunks I was seated next to from London to Houston. I complained to the flight attendant and said they needed to be cut off. These two UK residents then thankfully conked out for the remainder of the flight. If my memory serves me correctly, airlines used to have a two drink policy, and these two had far more than that.

Some of you know that I often travel to attend symphony concerts and other musical events. The purpose of this trip was to hear the Royal National Scottish Orchestra ( RNSO ) conducted by Jean-Claude Picard. I have had recordings of the featured work, the Symphony #5, by Ralph Vaughan Williams, but have never heard it live. It was sublime and will now be one of my fondest musical memories. I stayed two nights at a nice B&B in Edinburgh, but did not really do too much in that city, as I was fatigued and the weather was lousy. I then took a bus downtown and went to the large and busy Waverley station for the Scotrail train at 10:35am to Inverness. The equipment is a four car multiple unit diesel, in fairly good condition. Some of the seats face each other with a permanent table in between, which is rather cramped. I enjoy talking to other travelers and made a cheery good morning to the 60 something couple seated opposite me. They responded minimally and avoided eye contact with me and any further conversation. Sure, people don't have to talk to me, but most people don't take me for being the Ugly American. When we reached Inverness, they turned their back and departed without a word, and I decided they were not worth the time of day, either. Fortunately, I ran into more friendly people in other places, even on planes. The ride is somewhat interesting, with some of the stations being handsome old buildings, but the weather and visibility were poor. Arrival in Inverness, about three and a half hours later, was on time.

I stayed two nights at another B&B, the Rossmount. Robert MacKay and his wife, Ruth run a very fine house. He is retired from Scotrail and since I also am a retired railway employee; we shared tales and a barrel of laughs. As mentioned, the symphony concert, which also included music of Carl Nielsen and Igor Stravinsky, was splendid. The first night dinner was at the Rocpool Restaurant, recommended by visitors from Inverness whom I met where I am a volunteer ranger at Sunset Crater in Arizona. I had made a reservation, telling the restaurant how I learned about their place, and the owner knew who I was the minute I walked in the door. I rather liked Inverness, buying a Scottish paining and spending time in a second hand bookstore in an old church, heated by a wood stove.

I walked back down the hill to the station for my day long train trip to Coventry, which returned the same way to Edinburgh by the same route. This time I was seated with three friendly ladies going to stay overnight for a theater production in Edinburgh. We had a good time and they shared their snacks with me. Then I transferred to a Virgin Rail train, which was bound for London Euston. This is a nice nine car or so electrified set of modern slant nosed design, but obviously has been around for awhile. I sat in the quiet car, which was a bit stuffy, but fairly comfortable, and had several seat companions. Virgin Trains are routed down the west coast via Preston and Birmingham and operate mostly at a high speed. The itinerary that I had selected for this approximately 450 mile journey came to around $88, a good value, but it had me making a second change of trains at Wolverhampton to a Cross Country train, which would have me arrive Coventry a few minutes ahead of the Virgin train, but had the hassle of hauling baggage up and down stairs. The first conductor said I had to change as the ticket read; the second said, never mind, just stay on the Virgin train until Coventry, which I did, arriving about five minutes late. Thus ended my train rides in the UK, which were not spectacular, but served their purpose.

I walked several blocks to a nice restaurant where I had made an online reservation for 8pm and then to the Brittania Hotel. If you would like some entertaining reading, read the reviews of this place on Tripadvisor, including mine. That place leaves something to be desired, but the location is perfect. Sunday was spent at Coventry Cathedral for both the morning and afternoon services, as I'm a devotee of church music and a chorister myself. This is the Cathedral that was destroyed by German bombs in 1940, and the ruins stand in front of the modern Cathedral completed in 1962. After this, I went to the bus station nearby and took National Express bus to Heathrow, and stayed at an airport hotel. This is being written from Phoenix, and will drive home to Phoenix in a few hours.


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## gaspeamtrak (Apr 8, 2014)

Excellent trip report thanks for sharing!


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## jis (Apr 8, 2014)

The one thing that makes train service on many routes in the UK so usable is the frequency of service. Service between Edinburgh and Glasgow for example is exceptional in terms of frequency, at some parts of the day service every 15 mins, and rest of the day service every half hour at least, and then too service along multiple routes too.


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## pianocat (Apr 8, 2014)

What a fantastic trip GC! Did you have time to go out to Loch Ness, from Inverness? Great description of the 'quaintness' of the whole country. When we lived in Aberdeen, I would often take the train from Aberdeen to Edinburgh - simply to get away for a day and shop or walk the Castle. Trains were always on time!! To me, Scotland holds an almost mystical atmosphere that simply exudes history at every turn. Are you making plans to return? Nice report! Edit to add: The SNO came to Aberdeen every few months, got to hear Mitsuko Uchida play Mozart K.488 with them - hearing VWms. must have been an awesome experience, as well.


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## Bob Dylan (Apr 8, 2014)

Nice trip Eric! Were the less than friendly folks on the Train native Scots, Brits or Tourulists? I know people from the Isles have a reputation for being "reserved" but usually on a Train most people loosen up and are more outgoing! Glad the music was good,thanks for the howdy from the Houston Airport!


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## greatcats (Apr 8, 2014)

I think the unfriendly folks were English, but not sure. As Sarah Z says, some people may have psychological problems!


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## greatcats (Apr 8, 2014)

No, I did not go to Loch Ness. The innkeeper said not to bother with the weather. He recommends Loch Lomond. Another time.


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## trainman74 (Apr 9, 2014)

Do you remember the name of the B&B where you stayed in Edinburgh?

(Friends and I are planning a trip to Scotland later this year.)


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## greatcats (Apr 9, 2014)

Ardmor House, 74 Pilrig St. , Edinburgh. About 1 mile from Waverley Station.


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## SarahZ (Apr 9, 2014)

greatcats said:


> I think the unfriendly folks were English, but not sure. As Sarah Z says, some people may have psychological problems!


Right, they may have been introverts and/or shy in social situations. I'm the same way most of the time and mean no offense. I try to at least smile when I say, "Good morning," so that I (hopefully) don't come off as rude, but then I lapse back into silence.


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## caravanman (Apr 11, 2014)

Sorry if you felt your fellow train passengers were rude. I am just thinking back to my own train rides here, and it is true that we don't tend to welcome interactions too much, this side of the pond. Probably nothing personal to you.

There is a Youth Hostel in Edinburgh, and I can highly recommend the scenic train tide to Kyle of Lockalsh, for anyone visiting the Isle of Skye.

Ed


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## Green Maned Lion (Apr 11, 2014)

Or they are just your typical British folk, who are like that.


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## Railroad Bill (Apr 11, 2014)

Enjoyed your trip report GC. Hope to someday take a trip across the Pond and Scotland is on our list to visit. Of course, I want to see St Andrews and play a round of golf.


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## jis (Apr 11, 2014)

Railroad Bill said:


> Enjoyed your trip report GC. Hope to someday take a trip across the Pond and Scotland is on our list to visit. Of course, I want to see St Andrews and play a round of golf.


No trains to St. Andrews though. You have to get off at Leuchars between Edinburgh and Dundee and then take a bus or a taxi to St. Andrews. I've been there several times, since my Niece is at the University there working on a Doctorate in English.


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