# Zephyr and Lakeshore, the trip back home...



## caravanman (Nov 1, 2014)

Homeward Bound...

I enjoyed the gathering of Amtrak rail fans in San Francisco, it was an opportunity to meet some more of the faces behind the online forum.

I first visited San Francisco about 10 years ago, and have passed through several times since then, always a great buzz for me. Partly the buzz is nostalgia, the hippy days, Height Asbury, the summer of love, Steve McQueen‘s “Bullit”, 1960's vibes, and partly from it still being such a cool place with the cable cars, trams, golden gate bridge, and happy memories of earlier visits with my son, step daughter and my girlfriend.

With just a few hours to spare, I managed to re visit the coin operated mechanical museum near Fisherman's Wharf to see "dancing Suzy"... only a quarter to see her wooden dance, she looked a bit newer than on my last visit, must have had a makeover! Enjoyed my first ever steamed pork dumplings at the Embarcadero, and also re visited the sailing ship pier near the cable car turntable. A ride on the tram had to suffice, the cable cars were subject to longer queues than I can cope with. The coin operated museum has become a bit of a regular pilgrimage for me, it was such fun the first time!

After the rail fans meeting, I decided to have a few days chilling out in San Luis Obispo, near the California coast, and reached there by train on that Monday, mid afternoon.

The SLO hostel is very close to the station, only a couple of blocks walk, but I was surprised to find it closed on arrival. It is the only hostel that I have stayed at recently that still requires guests to leave the premises between 11am and 4.30pm.

Sat outside and waited, feeling a little under the weather, with a heavy cold starting.

The owner was away, so Dave opened up and booked me in... a kind and very interesting character, as were all the folk who worked there. Mixed dormitory rooms in a nice old house. Dumped my gear and had a quick look around the town, bought a few food items for making dinners and breakfasts in the hostel kitchen.

Varied and international mix of guests to chat with at dinner, and I received a few more tips on what to see and do.

I ended up staying much longer than I first intended, I found that my initial thoughts, either to go south to San Diego, or north to Seattle would not work out, with full hostels on my dates, and then expensive onward travel back to New York. I was feeling a little weary from travel and my cold, so I decided to sit back and just enjoy the California sunshine.

San Luis Obispo is said to be "the happiest town in America", a label bestowed by Oprah Winfrey of all people.... so then it must be true??

Quite wealthy, small size, good Californian weather, little racial diversity... Comfortable, smug, a bit boring I can see, but I would not imagine the best of places to live, long term...

For me, a very good port of call. I took almost daily bus rides out to Morro Bay, a nearby seaside town with good surfing beaches, and an excellent place for us non surfers to sit and read in the sunshine, watch the sea otters, pelicans, and chat with a few passers by.

Thursday evening has a big event in the town, the original farmers market has morphed into a street event, with roads closed to cars. Performers, other street musicians, and many stalls selling hot and cold foods alongside the original farm produce. Very well attended, and the smoky dark evening lent a slightly medieval market feel to the popular barbecue stalls.

One variation on sitting on the dock of the bay, was a days drive up Highway 1, the famous winding coastal road, as far as Monterey, in a hostel guests hire car.

We shared the driving and returned back to the hostel later on the faster 101 road in the dark.

As we alighted from the car, she handed me my phone, which had slipped from my pocket when I drove.

A long day and so to bed. Awoke in the middle of the night to remember that my passport had been in the same pocket, was now gone, and that it may have dropped outside the car when we changed drivers in the dark. Next morning it was found in the car, but a nasty reminder, along with the earlier loss of some of my medications, that I am not always as alert as I think I am!

I seem to have had more than my share of train ticket problems on this trip, and another occurred here in SLO. I was searching for the cheapest options for trains back to Chicago, and found 4 cheap price roomettes, the small sleeping rooms, to be available online. Because I did not have a printer, I went up to the station, a matter of just two blocks away. The agent there said that although her system showed 4 roomettes were available, she could not book any of them as non were through rooms. After a phone call she confirmed that nothing could be done, there were no roomettes I could have on that date, Sacramento to Chicago.

Tail between my legs, and another cloud over Amtrak, I returned to the hostel and that helped me to decide to extend my in SLO.

When I did manage to find other suitable dates and reserve travel through Chicago onto New York, it worked out ok, price wise it was a good deal, and was booked online with the tickets printed by the hostel.

Departure from SLO was on an Amtrak bus to San Jose, I was initially the only passenger aboard a huge coach. 11am departure time very convenient, and only about 6 passengers by the time we arrived in San Jose. Onward train to my overnight hotel in Sacramento. Although I like the SAC hostel, I chose to try the often recommended Vagabond Inn Executive, which sounded like a contradiction in terms...

My own room again! Luxury! A nice place and a reasonable price, my only gripe being my own heavy baggage and 3 lots of stairs to climb, no lift... An extra reminder to travel lighter next time. A quick visit to the food court and pleased to get another of the giro kebabs that I had sampled a few weeks earlier with the rail fans group visit to SAC.

Awake very early, and took a dark and misty 6.30am light rail ride from the nearby station to the 24hr. supermarket near 13th St. station. Looking for fruit and other food items for the journey. Many odd characters about, even so early!

Enjoyed a last quick bout of California sunshine on the platform before boarding my Zephyr train for a 30 minutes late departure from Sacramento.

My own room again! A roomette on the lower level, which was fine. It is many years since I rode upstairs in a roomette, the last 6 or so have all been lower level.

Adrian my attendant, very good with his introduction to the facilities and procedures, although he did not offer any help with my bags upon boarding.

I told him not to worry about my room, I would attend to the seating and sleeping alterations myself.

I have already been asked if I was weary by the end of the trip, and I said no, but on reflection I think I was naturally starting to focus on the fact I was now going home, after 10 weeks away, and so felt rather switched off as we left Sacramento. I thawed out soon enough, and began taking interest in the scenery, and snapped many photos again, although I have lots from my other Zephyr train rides!

My sleeper car was in good order, with refurbished restrooms and a nice shower, all clean and tidy. Coffee and juice and bottled water available gratis. The only issue was a lack of any available heat within the roomette. Some announcements from the restaurant car were non existent on the last day, but I think that was down to crew artifice more than any technical issues, the announcement that the dinner was now closed at 11.30am came booming through...

The dinning car crew were a sorry bunch, but I got two nice steaks for both my evening meals and a couple of burgers for lunch times, together with ice cream and cheesecake, so felt the food was enjoyable enough. One server was quite elderly, and made mistakes, serving tables out of order, and giving me someone else’s over done steak. The steward was a huge guy who never made it down to the lower level anytime to take my reservations, and I never saw him lift a finger. The other server was ok, although I never got part of one dinner order. I still tipped a couple of $ each meal, but felt the staff were strangers to customer service, by and large.

The cafe car attendant refused to take payment in silver, as I tried to spend my left over coins, so Adrian got his tip in small change, although it was a good amount!

I had my kettle with me, and just made up instant porridge and fresh fruit for my breakfasts.

Although a 240v UK kettle, it works on USA 125v but takes about 15 minutes to boil a cup full of water! Having got used to its slowness, I am now astonished how quickly it works back home on the correct voltage!

Early into Denver, a quick look at the station again, and early into Chicago.

I had met a hard of hearing woman at dinner, she mostly lip read, and did a great job communicating. She found my speech harder to follow, being UK, she said. I wrote her out a brief detail of the metro lounge, as she had no idea about it, and she was pleased to find it a comfortable place to wait for her connecting train.

No problems with the metro lounge, I explained I was arriving in sleeper, and leaving in coach on the Lakeshore Ltd that evening. Dumping my bags, (hurrah!) I walked up to lake Michigan in the sunshine, although a cool breeze made me wish I had worn warmer clothing. Funny to think back to the start of September, when I passed through going west... I looked for the eastern cafe I used then, but being a Sunday, it was closed up. The fountains were all switched off near the lake, but the Chicago “bean” sculpture was still open... As with San Francisco, it is another place of pilgrimage for me on my visits to this city.

Walking out to my train in the evening from the lounge, I was first to arrive at my coach, and got a window seat. These are single height coaches on this train. Almost full coach, lucky for me my elderly and odd seating companion snagged her own seat, so I had the two seats to myself all night. Very happy about that! Slept better than I had anticipated I would. Purchased a coffee and asked for an extra cup of hot water in the morning, in order to make up my porridge oats again for breakfast. Lunch was a hot dog and some items from yesterdays early morning shopping trip. About 30 minutes late into New York.

Buying a single subway ticket from a machine costs $2.75, so some coins are required. I did not overpay, so no idea if change is given. Several machines stated "no notes accepted- coins only".

Very good buskers on the rush hour platform, saxophone, guitar, loud and funky!

Reached 103rd street stn. without drama, and found the hostel nearby. Checked in, found my room, then went out to find some food. A queue at a Chinese eatery stood out, and I gave it a try. Noodles and spicy lamb... the noodles like wide ribbon, rather than the thin ones. Tasty and filling, but one was in no danger of getting lamb poisoning, judging by the tiny amount of meat!

I was very tired, and soon retreated to my hostel bed. I had opted for a “deluxe” 4 bed only room, which was clean, but as barren as a monks cell.

It transpired that I was the only person booked in the room all night, so that quiet night was another lucky turn of events.

I had checked my larger bag back in Chicago, and was only collecting it the day after my arrival... Free storage, so that I would not have so much to carry overnight in New York, a tip I got here on AU.

I thinned out papers and discarded a few items before I left the hostel, then a subway to the south ferry terminal. The subway train operator had a great “Nooo Yowk” nasal accent, nice to hear as he announced the stops.

My small roller case received sniffer dog attention as I boarded the Staten Island ferry, and I soon had my tourist pics of the New York skyline and the statue of liberty taken, so returned back again on the next ferry after a quick exit and re entry at Staten Island.

I was surprised and very pleased to spot the Queen Mary 2 in dock again, which seemed an auspicious event to mark the end of my long visit here, although I was flying home.

Back ashore, I walked up towards Brooklyn Bridge, and passing some gents eating a spicy smelling lunch, I asked where it was from. Directed to a nearby halal street food cart, I joined the local office workers in the queue and enjoyed a tasty lunch overlooking the water.

Subway back up to Penn station to collect my last bag, then head out on the subway again to the JFK airport. Easy check as I was so early, then later on a last meal of Panda Chinese food and just sitting waiting, as everyone who has ever flown will know seems a l o n g wait!

I managed to budget my spending so that I left America with just $3 in cash, but a large dent in my credit card!

More photos here: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152824979949120.1073741853.682004119&type=1&l=5e82d01049

“That’s all Folks!”

Ed


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## third rail 1200 (Nov 1, 2014)

Great travelog, thank you for taking the trouble to post. You seem to have enjoyed your trip hope you will return to see more.


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## City of Miami (Nov 1, 2014)

I managed to find the Oasis without difficulty when I was in Chicago earlier this week. I liked it and it was very busy! I also visited the Bean and took a few pics - and then went over to the old library building across the street. Did you go there? It's fantastic - the Tiffany domes in the old reading rooms and loads of mosaic detail work in the building are the main attraction.

I also stayed in hostels - the HI in Chicago and the private one in Detroit. Both were more than fine.

I had another great trip on the Cardinal with beautiful viewing through Kentucky and West Virginia.

Thanks for your trip reports which I have enjoyed reading - and I certainly enjoyed meeting you on the Cardinal that day!


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## caravanman (Nov 1, 2014)

Hi, Yes I did visit that building, it was on the architecture tour which I took from the Chicago hostel. Was lucky to hear a piano and cello recital there also, in the main room at one of their regular free lunchtime events, Glad you found the cafe ok... Likewise, I enjoyed meeting you, and hearing about your interesting times in California, etc.

Cheers,

Ed


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## greatcats (Nov 1, 2014)

Ah! The report I have been waiting for! Those Colorado train pictures look mighty familiar! It is too bad that you lacked heat and had a sorry dining car crew, but it sounds like it was a fairly good trip. Do drop in again in Flagstaff!


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## Bob Dylan (Nov 1, 2014)

Glad that the SLO stay and the trip to NY ( except for the worthless Diner crew) worked well for you Eddie!

Wonderful seeing you again, will the next trip be back to India?? Hope England has a " good" winter! Cheers and Smiles across the miles!


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## bobnjulie (Nov 1, 2014)

Glad the rest of the trip worked out. Enjoyed your photos immensely! Say hello to Jeremy


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## Alice (Nov 1, 2014)

Enjoyed all of the trip reports and photos, especially enjoyed meeting you at the gathering. (Started "The Lady Who Liked Clean Restrooms," fabulous story-teller, I think Penny needs it in her luggage when I'm finished with it!)


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## caravanman (Nov 3, 2014)

Hi All,

Thanks again for the comments and good wishes!

I have had a few minor health issues over the last few years, mostly age related I guess, so was feeling much less confident about solo travelling, being reliant on myself... something which I had often done.

This recent extended trip has given me back the confidence to just carry on with my travels and enjoy myself... If I can doss down in the westbound Zephyr lounge car overnight, *and* ruffle a few AU members feathers at the same time, life is still very good!

I am keen to re visit India, Jim, but having just checked my credit card bill, it looks like I will have to leave that 'till next autumn. I feel content at the moment, but the cold winter winds next month may be winds of change, enough to waft me off again to warmer climes!

Alice, a great pleasure to meet and chat with you... I did visit that amazing SLO bookshop, and bought two books for 10c each!

As for Jeremy Clarkson, *********************** but so nice to meet you, Bob and Julie, happy travels!

Eric, a great pleasure, and likewise my humble abode is at your disposal!

Best wishes again to all,

Ed


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