# Southwest Chief, April 2014



## Michigan Mom (Apr 13, 2014)

This trip had been postponed earlier and was now back on track, coinciding with the kids' Spring Break. Train 3 CHI-LAX-LAS and then 4 on the way back, this time from Vegas to Kingman AZ and onwards.

The good: With or without flowers, newspapers or cranberry juice, Amtrak's LD trains are an exhilerating visual journey and are staffed by superlative employees who are knowledgeable, hardworking and put care and thought into everything they do. 

The bad: Years go by and the Wolverine service is still wildly inconsistent at best.

The ugly: Shared restrooms. Once quaint and serviceable, part of the adventure, nowadays nasty.

The weather was still cold but had cleared from the previous day’s rain and the sunrise seemed to preview the weather that awaited in the Southwest. We arrived at the Ann Arbor Amtrak station with high hopes and keen anticipation of the adventure ahead. The AM Wolverine to Chicago is generally reliable for those who need to be there by a certain time, and the onboard experience is pleasant and low key. Amtrak has evidently trained employees to apologize for delays and provide explanations. Personally I can live without the perfunctory “We apologize for the inconvience” especially having spent years in the travel industry, knowing how little those words mean, but the general public sets great store by apologies and I think that is why you hear them so freely given. I’d rather have good information. And, sometimes you get both. This particular morning, an announcement was made that due to a signal problem, the train was stopped to let the conductor off at the crossing, and would then move forward a little and then stop again to pick him up. Well I don’t know what the “signal problem” was but that conductor must have been one heck of a runner because the train never stopped after the crossing. You can create your own visual there  The train continued through pretty western Michigan countryside, still with thin patchy crusts of snow in places. Amtrak's new onboard Wifi was easy to connect with, but useless after that. Email wouldn't load, weather channel site wouldn't load. It may have been a lot of people using limited bandwith. My son was able to connect to his favorite ESPN site so the countryside held no interest for him, and I didn't care about my email enough to troubleshoot further. Enjoying coffee with scenery was enough, and my daughter was brimming with barely suppressed excitement about the trip. She wanted to order her own beverage from the cafe car and pay for it with her money. Since we were in the front row of BC and I could see the adjacent counter, I said sure. Although, the beverage is free in BC, I told her just to give him a tip as I signed the sheet for her already. The café car attendant, depending on your perspective, could be described as either reticient, uncommunicative or surly. When my daughter went to ask him for a cup of herbal tea, he replied that he only had regular tea, and did not say another word. If it were me, and a little kid asked for something like that, I’d have suggested something else, maybe hot chocolate. I also would have cracked a smile. My kind hearted little girl took some change out of her coin purse and went back to the counter to give him a tip even though she didn’t get anything, because she thought it might "cheer him up". I didn't want to discourage this display of compassion and sensitivity so I just told her how proud I was of her doing a nice thing for someone. And as always, I'd brought stuff to snack on and some bottled waters. We arrive in Chicago with plenty of time before the SW Chief is scheduled to depart. The Metropolitan lounge is teeming with passengers. Son gets connected on his laptop and we girls take a walk around Chicago, sunny but still very brisk. We pick up some essentials, and head back to the lounge. LD trains are called, starting with the Texas Eagle, then the EB and the Zephyr, gradually the crowd thins somewhat and the moment of magic arrives when they make the announcement for Train 3. The gracious Metropolitan lounge attendants walk us out to the track to the mightly Southwest Chief and our journey to the West is truly underway. Goodbye, cold, ice and snow! We board Car 331, Family Room 15 and get settled as the train glides out of Union Station.

Our room is on the lower level, and is remarkably spacious. Capacity is 2 adults and 2 children, so the 3 of us have more than enough space to hang out in, and windows on both sides of the train. The first mini-crisis occurs when the kids start looking around for outlets to plug their various electronics into. The room contains only one outlet. "How can this be?" my son asks. When the SCA stops by to introduce himself, he confirms that yes, there is only one plug, as these cars were designed 45 years ago. It simply means that a shared charging schedule must be devised, and that a power strip would be handy to have on future trips. Paul is a wonderful SCA, with old-school professionalism and courtesy. He is also training a new hire on his first day on the job. Being new, I don't think it's quite right to give his name, but I will say the young man was enthusiastic, hardworking and was clearly being trained by the best. He is bound to enjoy a great career in his new role, plus I'm pleased to see that Amtrak is secure enough to be hiring.

Late afternoon sunshine illuminated Chicago buildings, the highrises and the more pedestrian urban landscape as we rolled along, and then the train stopped. Moments later, a familiar apology for the delay and then an interesting explanation: We were stopped because the train impacted "a piece of equipment near the track" which "took off a piece of engine." After maybe 20-30 minutes to give people time to speculate on how vital a piece of engine this was, the train started moving again with no additional explanation. The dining car attendant came by to take our reservation and we headed for the diner early, to try and acclimate slowly to the time changes. 

Dining car staff on this trip was outrageously friendly and fun. They were on Day 3 of a five day tour of duty and were clearly a little punchy. Yet they were having so much fun with their jobs, the passengers and their coworkers, that a botched order or dropped plate here and there only added to the fun. I loved these guys. I did notice, as a change from our EB trip of a couple years ago, that the community seating aspect was enforced to the point where the diner could be 3/4 empty and they would seat a single person with us every time. It didn't matter, though, we were there to go with the flow, and met some very interesting people. For this first meal onboard the train, our dining companion was a woman traveling to Kansas City from the east coast, for a family health issue. Her family did not accompany her on this trip, and both she and her husband were always busy with work and their kids, so she thought the train might be a low-stress alternative to flying. He stayed home with the kids so she could take the time needed for this trip. I wish she had booked a sleeper, because that probably would have been more relaxing for her, as her coach car was evidently loud and populated with unsupervised children. We had lots of common ground to discuss and she seemed to enjoy the meal and being able to chat with us as the sun set over fields in Illinois. As our meal drew to a close, a compliment from her on my well behaved children sent MM's heart soaring. 

After dinner we head back to our room and relax for a while before getting ready for bed. Going down the hall to the restroom, I notice that the liquid soap dispenser has vanished. Not a problem on the sleeper as I steal a bar of soap from the shower room, and when we see Paul and his trainee, mentioned that there was no liquid soap for handwashing. Paul said that people do take these for the Amtrak logo... I find that more than a little weird... but no matter, the soap dispensers are replaced and manage to stay put for the remainder of the journey. 

Our SCA trainee helps us get the room ready for night and we are then ready to take care of the room ourselves for the duration of the trip. Having showered in the morning, we all change, clean up with washclothes, brush teeth and son climbs up into the top bunk. He's a lanky kid and was able to stretch out comfortably with no one in the adjacent upper bunk. I marvel at the good sized adult lower bunk and my daughter is delighted with her own little space which includes her own window. We fall asleep early and don't even wake up for major stops like Kansas City.

Next up: Sunday, full day on the train


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## oregon pioneer (Apr 14, 2014)

Great report, thanks, and keep the updates coming! I'll be watching for them.


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## Michigan Mom (Apr 14, 2014)

I don't want to get fired so this installment will be quick. We rose early for breakfast, in the ongoing attempt to sort of stay on Eastern time, and this morning our dining companion was a young woman on her way to visit her grandparents. This was her first train trip and she seemed to be enjoying herself. She gave us a glimpse of what life must be like living in tornado country. We really don't deal with this much in Michigan, although we've had a few. We're still in Kansas at this point, still a lot of fields and farm. La Junta, CO is one of the "smoke/fresh air stops." I never miss a chance to get out and walk a bit, take a look at the often historic train stations, and my daughter comes with me as she evidently doesn't trust me not to miss the train. When my son was little he was the same way. Now, he stays onboard and takes advantage of the train not moving to do some homework problems. I try to drum up a little excitement about breathing the air in different states, alas the younger generation finds this lame. The train whistle sounds and the conductor yells the "All Aboard!" Soon, the train leaves CO and is traversing NM. The desert landscape stretches as far as the eye can see. It looks EXACTLY like the ending scene in "Vegas Vacation" a movie we are watching for the 50th time in anticipation of the destination. The train begins a slow ascent into the mountains, and that is entertainment that surpasses any printed or digital material, The family BR is excellent for scenery with the windows on both sides, so we stayed in our room until lunchtime.

Next: Lunch and ABQ stop


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## CaliforniaMom (Apr 14, 2014)

Enjoying your report, looking forward to next installment (but don't get fired!)


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## brentrain17 (Apr 14, 2014)

thanks for the great trip report, and yes, always bring a power strip


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## oregon pioneer (Apr 14, 2014)

CaliforniaMom said:


> Enjoying your report, looking forward to next installment (but don't get fired!)


Fired from being the mom? Not a chance, they won't let you go! Sounds like you are a good one.


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## Bob Dylan (Apr 14, 2014)

Most enjoyable report MM! Sounds like your kids are well raised and as someone has said, the family that rides trains together stays gather! Don't get fired but continue the trip report ASAP!


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## Guest (Apr 14, 2014)

what happened to Post #3?


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## SarahZ (Apr 14, 2014)

Guest said:


> what happened to Post #3?


I see Post #3. It's about breakfast and the stop at La Junta.

If you're talking about the third installment, she hasn't written it yet.


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## Michigan Mom (Apr 14, 2014)

Thanks for following  I had to get to my day job. And then the cook-dinner job. So anyway, we left off in NM, headed for ABQ. Some ranches, with horses and cows, one of our dining companions mentioned they saw buffalo but I wouldn't know, unless they were very cow-like. The new young 'uns were frisking about happily while the moms grazed nearby. The farms became more few and far between as we got higher in altitude, but the scenery became quite interesting with the different rock formations, and reddish rocks and dirt. We went to lunch after Raton, NM, before Las Vegas NM. No neon at that stop  Our lunch companion was on her way to meet up with friends/family somewhere around the ABQ stop, where they had various adventures planned. She was much fun and also had something in common with my daughter as they both have the "shopping bug." She was not able to sleep much the previous night in her roomette, and I could understand as the rough track in areas takes some getting used to. I have not written much about the food itself, and honestly it isn't the draw for me. The breakfast scrambled eggs were certainly good, and my son had omellettes that he enjoyed. Daughter had the railroad french toast. Otherwise, for her, the choices were really a hotdog meal or the cheese pizza. She thought the chicken nuggets were on the level of the school cafeteria, not a ringing endorsement, and isn't fond of mac/cheese. We both love raw vegetables and I really have to plan better next time and pack some in a cooler. Son on the other hand was quite happy with the cheeseburger at lunch and the steak for dinner. I tried the entree salad for today's lunch and it was fine. I'm just not really going to complain about food that I don't have to shop for, prepare, cook and clean up after. And it's vacation  We finish our lunch and bid our companion safe travels, then head back to our room again. Hanging out with my kids, watching the scenery, is what this trip is about. I'm loving it that there is no internet and cell phone reception is bad. We have to interact as a family and they will remember these times. The next stop will be Albuquerque and this is a somewhat lengthy servicing stop, so there will be plenty of time to detrain and look around. Besides, we've heard from our lunch companion that local Navajo artists have their wares to sell right on the platform. My son has already decided he's not interested in seeing what there is to see, and wants to be able to write out his chemistry problems while the train is stopped, so once again it's up to us girls to explore the Wild West. As we are stepping off the train in ABQ, we see our friend from lunch and we say goodbye to her again, as she reminds my daughter to get out there and shop.  As if she needed reminding.  The weather was gorgeous, especially for us Michiganians. Sunny, cool, and dry, with air that felt intoxicating to breathe (once we got away from the smokers). Tables with jewelry and crafts were either set up or in the process of being set up, along a section of platform outside the ABQ station which was a combination Amtrak/Greyhound depot that even had a little cafeteria inside. We didn't spend any time in the station; being much more interested in perusing the craft tables. Daughter found a handmade hair clip and bracelet which made her very happy, and I got a pair of earrings. We decide to wait until our trip back to buy more and set forth for a good walk in the sunshine and cool breeze. There was so much time with our early arrival, that I wanted to take a longer range walk around downtown ABQ, but my girl is still young enough that she was terrified about missing the train so we limited our walking to crossing through the station and around the block before heading back to our sleeper. Paul was amused when I told him that my daughter didn't trust me not to miss the train and he said that was common with little ones. We boarded with time to spare and got settled as once again, the mighty SW Chief left ABQ. It wasn't all that long until our dinner reservation was called. Our companion this time was a very quiet man, so quiet that I felt like I was doing something wrong. Thinking it was the "train thing" I tried to engage him in conversation, and he did answer questions when he had to, but mostly I just felt like I was bothering him. Or maybe it was something he didn't like about me, or the kids. It was very different. He was retired and headed to California to visit a relative, and had a distant look in his eyes that was more empty than sad, but I wished I could have chased that emptiness away, at least for the duration of the meal. As far as the food itself, he appeared to enjoy his half chicken. I tried the "healthy" option which was described on the menu as an eye of round steak with baby carrots and couscous. The couscous was the only part of that that appeared, and while I was more than OK with the sauteed spinach, the meat had no resemblance to any beef cut I've ever seen. I asked the server if if was possible to ID the meat and, with his signature humour, he said, "I don't know, I never eat that healthy stuff." Then he asked a diner at the next table who ordered the same thing what the meat was on her plate, and she answered, "top round." I was still dubious. In fact, I was convinced this was a pork steak. No religious objections, mind you, but in general not crazy about pork products. Bacon or sausage maybe once or twice a year. Ham never, and pork loin steaks, never. Just don't like it. So I left it and had the side dishes. Good excuse to have dessert  I leave the tip and we excuse ourselves and as we headed back to our room, my kids both opined that the gentleman seated with us didn't feel like talking and I shouldn't have tried so hard. I replied to them that it just seemed like what you were expected to do, but I agreed with both of them that it would have been better for me to just keep quiet.

We enjoyed the scenery until the sun finished setting and went to bed early, mindful of the time change. With the 8 am arrival into LAX, we are advised that breakfast will only be served from 5-6. We are not committed either way, and decide that if we are awake, we'll get a last train meal, and if not, we'll make do upon arrival.

Next: California Dreaming...Sort Of


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## Michigan Mom (Apr 14, 2014)

CALIFORNIA!

What the hey, I'm up at 0430, why, cause it's 0730 at home and I should have been up an hour ago. I open the curtain and peer out at a different landscape, flattened, with definite signs of civilization, gas stations, stores and multiple train crossings. Presently the aroma of brewing coffee is wafting through the car and I go upstairs to get that morning cup. At 0500 I advise kids that if they want another diner meal, this is it. They get ready in a hurry and we make our way to the diner where the servers, as jocular as they have been for this trip, motion for us to sit down and then a couple of minutes later, they seat an elderly gentleman with us. His wife decided to sleep in and skip breakfast. They have, he tells us, been married for over 50 years. In fact he had many stories to tell about his business before he retired, his family and the plans that brought he and his bride to Los Angeles. He was entertaining, personable and we all 3 were delighted to have his company that morning . It really just made my day that a couple who had to be in their 70s, enjoyed new adventures. While they did enjoy their train experience, he correctly pointed out to me the cost of their sleeper exceeded the cost of flying. All too soon it was time to part ways, and say goodbye to him and to our dining car crew. They were wonderful and I will always treasure the one who made a point to communicate with me about a dropped plate. You know who you are  When we got back to our room, it had already been restored to day configuration. I felt bad because we had every intention of doing that ourselves, not to mention moving all the bags and stuff that our young SCA ending up doing. He was certainly gracious about it when I said as much to him. Approaching LAX, there were slowdowns for the ubquitous freight traffic, although the schedule padding allowed for a close-to-on-time arrival. Sunshine and palm trees signaled that we were in CALIFORNIA!!!

Next: From Espresso to Greyhound


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## greatcats (Apr 14, 2014)

This is Greatcats here in Flagstaff. By the dates you made your postings, I was going to come down to the station tonight and say hello to you, but I see that you have already arrived LAX. Enjoy that ride over Raton on the way back, because it is looking pretty likely that in 2016 it will be rerouted through Amarillo. Just as long as they keep the train running!


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## Michigan Mom (Apr 14, 2014)

Not only that Greatcats, we have already arrived back in Michigan as of Saturday night. I was using incorrect verb tenses to try and convey that "real time" feeling but we actually got to LAX on Monday the 7th, in Vegas the same afternoon, then left again on Thursday the 10th,via Kingman. After getting back home I've been steadily unpacking, cleaning, washing and had to be ready for the usual Monday work day, and writing is always a constant exercise in editing for me, so that has a lot to do with the time delay. Why are they rerouting the train, I don't understand?

Anyway thanks for the comment, I've gotten too tired to finish the last installment LAX-LAS tonight, but should get that done tomorrow and then there will be the return jaunt via Kingman. Sorry we didn't see you in Flagstaff - that is one busy station, even at the late or early times, there were a lot of people either boarding or leaving the train. Seemed like that stop alone should be enough to keep the SWC in business.


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## oregon pioneer (Apr 15, 2014)

MM -- the reason that the SCA has to "do up" the room before arival into LAX is so that it is already made up fresh and ready for the next trip, with clean sheets and all. The more they can do before arrival, the quicker they can get the car finished up. They would leave your pillows to change the cases after you are completely out of the room, but the beds were certainly made up before they were set back up in daytime configuration.

As a side note: when our EB was so very late getting into CHI in December, the SCA made up the beds when we got up on the day we should have arrived. Then yet more delays caused us to have to use the beds again, so all the spare linens were dirty as well before the trip was over. The SCA just shrugged and said "they'll have to deal with it in the yard when they clean the train."


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## greatcats (Apr 15, 2014)

Hi Michigan Mom - The likely reroute of this train has been the topic of much discussion on this forum, but not in recent weeks. To sum up the reasons for the re-route, which could have additional reasons tacked on, goes something like this: The Southwest Chief is usually fairly well patronized; that is not the problem. However, the old Santa Fe mainline across western Kansas, through La Junta, over Raton Pass and to Albuquerque is no longer a primary freight route. In western Kansas and to La Junta, there is some freight service, but the passenger train speed has had to be decreased due to the rough track. From La Junta, or maybe Trinidad, west to Lamy in the Santa Fe area, all freight service was withdrawn off that line several years ago, I believe around 2006. It is simply more efficient and less problematical for BNSF to send its long distance freight on a less mountainous, double tracked route east across the Texas panhandle into Oklahoma. There is a contract in force through the end of 2015 for BNSF to keep the Raton Pass line operable, but what will happen after that remains to be seen. Who is going to pay millions of dollars to keep over 200 miles of railroad, scenic and historic as it is, up to passenger train standards, for two trains a day? It no longer serves the purposes of BNSF, Amtrak is not in a position to cough up the money, and the states involved, especially New Mexico, have backed away from the matter. The scenario has not yet played out and it could turn out in different and unexpected ways, but there are certainly good reasons to send the Amtrak train over the route through Amarillo and then up to Wichita. It would still serve Albuquerque, but would have to be run north several miles from the present mainline and reversed on the wye track south of Albuquerque station, which has been done before. I hope I answered your question; some others will probably chime in with some additional remarks. I will be interested to read the rest of your trip and am glad that you are safely at home.


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## Michigan Mom (Apr 15, 2014)

Another fast pre-work installment: So there we are detraining in California, with sunshine and the aforementioned palm trees swaying slightly in the breeze. We say goodbye to Paul and the Southwest Chief's newest SCA, and set forth into the station. As usual I had calculated the amount needed for tips and it worked out perfectly, with the correct amounts left for the return. There are no ATMs on the train  Once inside the station, we walked until we found the Metropolitan Lounge. This lounge bears as much resemblance to Chicago's as gold does to plastic. Clean, with abundant sunshine from the windows, with a tray of snacks (packaged muffins, but from a local business in San Luis Obispo), a fridge stocked with cranberry juice cocktails, a water dispenser, and.... an espresso machine. That's right... not just coffee... cappucino with the touch of a button. CALIFORNIA!! Oh, this was a lovely quiet place to wait for the next departure. The kids weren't interested in the snacks but I took a muffin and a cup of tea, and they got cold water from the dispenser and we sat down to charge up everything for the bus ride. With the 2 hour layover, as usual the girls had to get out and explore, so we left our bags with my son and went outside of the station into the courtyard. What a gorgeous station is LAX, with beautiful public areas both indoors and outside. One of the courtyards has a fountain in the center and off to the side, a koi pond. We sat and watched the fish for a while and then went back inside to pick up a couple snacks to take on the bus ride. After gathering our belongings, we went out to the bus stand, which, while mildly chaotic, was still a pleasant place to wait, given the weather. We started getting a little apprehensive when 3 buses loaded up and departed for Bakersfield, with no sign of our LAS bus, and no announcements or information given. Departure time had come and gone, and the kids were starting to give me those "looks". We finally found an employee who said we had not missed it and to wait at the far end. Finally, the Greyhound arrived and the irascible driver got out and we began boarding. (OK, I did not know that early on that he was in fact irascible). An hour after scheduled departure, the bus lumbered out of Union Station and we were on our way. There is really no way I can say this without sounding negative... so I'm just going to say it. This is not an experience that we ever hope to repeat. I make no apologies for hating it, as Shakespeare said "to thine own self be true". So the bus makes numerous stops in little stations around the LA area before heading out to the desert. No express bus, this is, and the driver made a long and interesting announcement after everyone boarded. There was a strict lecture about noise, using headphones for electronics, and keeping conversations quiet, (which I did appreciate) along with an admonition that alcohol or drug use and hostility would not be tolerated and would be "prosecuted." As I said, interesting. He then continued to educate us about the delay and told everyone to call ahead and let whoever was meeting us know that we would be late, between 530-6 pm instead of 4:55. "This is a bus," he said unnecessarily, "This is not a train, or a plane. This is a busy spring break week, and the highways and byways are all being used by people like you who...." it went on like that. Well, this was completely disingenious because the delay was caused by the Greyhound's hour late departure from LAX, not by any traffic on the "highways and byways." His lecture had the desired effect, I guess, because no one complained, at least not out loud, although the guy in the seat in front of us muttered angrily before taking a sip from his little flask.

-To Be Continued- there's the work thing and this is taking longer to write than anticipated.


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## Bob Dylan (Apr 15, 2014)

Bus + Grumpy Driver + Desert= Unpleasant Trip!

Sure miss the Desert Wind!


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## GG-1 (Apr 15, 2014)

Aloha

I guess I have not cared about the Bus ride because every time I have ridden it was going to or from friends and family. And also since I was not driving the rout I could watch the scenery go by. Did you see the cat on the mountain?


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## Michigan Mom (Apr 15, 2014)

Don't remember the cat on the mountain,GG. There were some weird looking solar panel things set in a flat area, though. Looked like alien spaceships or something. Anyway, to continue, one of the last LA-area stops was San Bernadino. (I think... might have that wrong... it was a tiny little station). The driver announced we would be there 10 minutes and could get off the bus. I decided to go see if there was a restroom in the station, and the kids stayed onboard. As I got off, the driver was chatting with a station security guard. Before I could say anything, he assumed his version of a polite smile, gestured and said, "You can smoke over there." "I don't smoke" I told him. "Is there a restroom inside?" He gave a very interesting response that I won't repeat verbatim here, but if had to do with what I could go do inside if I wanted. Trying for jocularity, I said, "Now don't leave without me." His face transformed with remarkable speed into a decided frown, and I realized that I had used up my 5 seconds of alloted conversation time with him. "What?" he said. "Well, my kids are on the bus, so don't leave without me. Although you would like them. They are nice kids!" If I tell you that my attempt at humor fell a little flat that wouldn't even begin to convey what was reflected in his expression. The security guard chimed in and said in a serious tone, "You can't do that." Now I'm confused. "What? I can't?" "No!" they both said, shaking their heads. I was aghast. "But they are 17 and 11!" The driver and the guard continued the head shaking and the driver said, "You have to take them with you." This was too much. "Really?" I said. "To the bathroom?" The security guard then said, "No, we meant you can't leave them and take off." The reader is probably thinking they were being humorous but they so clearly were not. They were speaking to me in the exact same tones as were used to tell the passengers they couldn't do drugs onboard. Why on earth would they even feel the need to say something like that??? I walked into the station and saw a table where the TSA was wanding everyone and searching their bags prior to boarding, then looked at the station restroom. it smelled awful and 2 women were in the midst of a conversation about a "problem" with one of the stalls. I walked back out and got on the bus. As we pulled out and headed back to the freeway, for the benefit of the newly boarded passengers the driver repeated his lecture about noise and not using any illicit substances. He also announced there would be a meal break at Barstow. The kids were pretty hungry by now and luckily we had the Subway sandwiches purchased at LAX, so they had something to eat in the meantime, and we simply avoided drinking anything. The bus ride over the desert was certainly scenic, and there was still the anticipation of our final destination. The passengers around us were just a very, very interesting cross section of humanity. I don't want to be judgmental, so I'm not judging, I'm just saying that I wouldn't want to meet most of them in a dark alley, and there was an awful lot of information sharing that I'm not thrilled my kids got to hear. At least, not my youngest. The guy in front of us, who seemed mean at first, mellowed out quite a bit the more he sipped from his flask. My daughter whispered, "Mom, he's drunk." He got very cordial with the woman next to him and they had some very earthy conversations, but my daughter started watching a movie on her portable DVD, with earbuds and didn't hear much. My son was across the aisle next to another young man. That's about where the resemblance between the two ended, and I'm not going to elaborate on that. By the time we were getting near Barstow, I got to really appreciate the prison warden I mean the driver's announcements. We pulled into the Barstow rest stop and most of the passengers made a beeline for the main building. We went into a nearby burger place, bought some food and used the bathrooms there before heading back to the Greyhound. From here on in it would be nonstop to Vegas, and the passengers seemed more settled, although a couple of times the driver admonished everyone that if he could hear a conversation, it was too loud. Finally the desert landscape began to give way to occaisonal buildings and then we were approaching the Strip. Iconic Vegas landmarks thrilled the crowd, and the kids perked up too. There was one final announcement threatening people with eternal damnation if they didn't stay seated until he advised us it was OK to stand up... fine, totally understandable... and then we were there. Readers will appreciate that we were pretty dam thrilled to be getting off that bus. We were humbly grateful that our luggage was not stolen, and we cut through the station and headed to Fremont Street to our hotel. There was no sightseeing other than the walk through Fremont, through the casino and then the checkin process. Our room at the D hotel was quiet and comfortable, we all took LONG HOT showers and relaxed for the night before heading out the next morning. 2 days on the Strip at the MGM and come Thursday, the 10th, we are reluctantly going to head back on Train 4.

Next up: Van to Kingman, AZ... like... Night to a different Night


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## Railroad Bill (Apr 15, 2014)

Enjoying the trip report Mich Mom. Your last segment on the bus will reinforce our efforts to avoid bus rides as much as possible. 

Although, we have ridden the buses from LA to Bakersfield during the day to connect with the San Joaquins and they were all pretty nice experiences.

Looking forward to your Kingman shuttle experience which is how we will make our trip to Laughlin and Las Vegas in the future.


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## Michigan Mom (Apr 16, 2014)

You'll have no problems with the shuttle service, RRBill - maybe the late hour, but as you will see, a totally different experience than the bus ride. Without further ado:

From Knight, to Night... to a different Knight... and then another Night....

So, after 4 days, 3 nights, late on the 4th day after hanging out at Excalibur for the day, we arrive at LAS airport via taxi. We are all feeling somewhat letdown about leaving Vegas but were also looking around wondering where to find the bus or shuttle to Kingman. One of the airport police was familar and he pointed out the bus/shuttle stand just outside the terminal. Even then we weren't sure exactly where to wait and we found another traveler who was waiting for the Amtrak shuttle as well. RRBill and anyone else planning this, I suggest arriving no earlier than 45 minutes before departure, maybe 30, although even 20 would not make you miss the shuttle. Shortly after we found where the correct stop was, a van drove up and the friendly driver got out then came over to talk with us. The van was pulling a "pod" that would hold the luggage. The driver, who knew our names before we could tell him, collected the tickets and introduced himself. His name was Andy and he was the epitome of professional, friendly and considerate. For those of us who had arrived early, he loaded the luggage in the pod. We were welcome to wait inside the van but it was a pleasant evening and we all elected to wait outside. He discussed suggested seating for everyone. For our group of 3, he thought the last row would be best, and we took him up on the offer. When it came time to board, 2 passengers did not show up, and after Andy directed us to our seats, advised that my son could stretch out in the empy row if he wanted. Andy completed some paperwork and we were on our way. What a different experience from the Greyhound this was. Swadian Hardcore will want to kill me and I understand, I can only ask for similar understanding that not everyone looks at everything the same way. Anyway, Andy gave detailed information on what the trip would be like, stops, climate control, and asked us to let him know if we were uncomfortable in any way. No one onboard was picky about that and the heat alternated with the a/c. The first stop would be Laughlin, which was about an hour and a half, and then after 30 minutes there, Kingman was only 35 minutes away. So even the first leg went by quickly. I actually wished this could be done in daytime for the scenery and wakefullness aspect but I'm sure there is just no other way to structure this connection else someone would have thought of it by now. We catnap a little and soon wake up when the van pulls off the freeway, and Andy parks in a neon-lit plaza adjacent to a hotel, In and Out Burger, gas station and other buildings. The desert night is pleasant and cool. My son decides he'd rather stay napping so my daughter and I get out to explore. What we thought was a hotel, as we went in to locate the restroom, was actually a casino (with hotel attached). The casino floor was vast but not tortuous like it would be in Vegas; rather it was one large floor. The night had a surreal quality, so many people awake so late, in this beautiful desert community. It honestly felt like life on a different planet. We walked to the store across the street to get bottled water/ milk and I was intrigued by the In and Out Burger. Supposedly this is a chain that West Coasters hold dear because of the excellent burgers and I wanted to try one. On the other hand I don't normally eat cheeseburgers in the middle of the night. Still, who knows when we'd have the opportunity. My daughter declined so I ordered one and indeed, it was pretty darn good. Just the regular cheeseburger. Highly recommended  Maybe the 2 Joes could check it out and let everyone know what they think. After that we head back to the van, I asked Andy if he was able to get a burger and he said he was busy doing his paperwork during the break. Everyone boards and we head back to the freeway. As Andy had promised, it was a short ride to the Kingman, AZ Amtrak station. Andy showed us how the station sits along historic Route 66, and said that the train was running on time, (which meant an hour wait) and unloaded the luggage while he explained that we could sit inside the waiting room but that the rest of the station was closed, including the small museum at the other end, although we could peek through the windows. There was another room where Amtrak crew were waiting but we couldn't access that. I have to say Andy was really an amazing person. Can you imagine doing his job, having to work only at night? Being so cheerful, professional and focused on customer safety? I can't. His demeanor and how he performed his job gave me a confidence that I don't normally have driving around in the middle of the night. Andy wished us all safe travels, we said goodbye and he set off on his hour commute to his home. After that, there was nothing to do but doze or play with electronic devices in the small waiting room. Andy had warned us a lot of freight traffic would be coming through, and after we all jumped up at the first one, we realized there was no chance the SW Chief would be that early and everyone kind of settled in their seats. One passenger did go outside to look at the freight trains when they showed up but it was chilly enough that the rest of us stayed inside. Finally, at around 15 minutes before scheduled arrival time, a conductor came through the adjoining door to instruct us where we should wait on the platform. I have to say his directions were very explicit. It seemed no one would be boarding at the same door. When Train 4 finally arrived, we were a little shocked at the distance we walked to our sleeper. The other sleeper passenger was waiting in a different area, and the coach passengers, in a different area yet. Doors were opened and they all boarded and I started to feel a little irrationally apprehensive. Finally a conductor got to us, and let us on. Again, a little irrational but i can't describe how relieved we all were, to be onboard our sleeper, to find our beds ready. Car 430 was one of the older cars, with the nonworking "music controls" in the roomettes. Considering the date of manufacture, I sure would love to know what the musical selections were. Unlike many passengers I probably would love the music. I hoped the SCA didn't have to wake up in the middle of the night to get the rooms ready, but I'm guessing not since we didn't see anyone. Quietly, we got settled, cleaned up and my son, across from us in his own roomette, hoisted our small bags into his upper bunk. We said good night to him and gratefully crawled into our own beds and fell asleep quickly. Our shuttle ride from LAS, to Kingman, compared with the bus ride, definitely Night to Knight... or Knight to Day... or day to night.... anyway....

Next.... Flagstaff, AZ and beyond


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## Railroad Bill (Apr 16, 2014)

MM. The last time we were in Kingman, the station was still being renovated and there was a small room in a building across the street from the station where everyone waited. We stayed at a Quality Inn where the crew stayed and the hotel shuttle brought all of us down to the waiting room before the train arrival. Nice to know the station is usable now and that you had such a great experience with the LV shuttle.

Look forward to the next part of the report.


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## D.P. Roberts (Apr 16, 2014)

Wow, great report so far - I'm looking forward to reading the rest of it!

I've not yet seen the Metropolitan Lounge in Los Angeles - it sounds very nice. I also love LAUS. It's such a beautiful old building, and all those courtyards and fountains make it a lovely place to spend a layover. I just booked a trip on Train #4 today and actually chose an earlier connection so that we can spend more time there! I'd never even think about doing that at any airport, anywhere.


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## Everydaymatters (Apr 17, 2014)

I'm enjoying reading this and look forward to the next part. Thanks for sharing.


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## hessjm (Apr 17, 2014)

In a precursor to our Gastronomic Adventures, when the 2 Joes ventured to Vegas to help Eric with the Santa train for the Nevada RR Museum, we encountered In and Out! I had heard some rumors about the joint beforehand and had done a little research for our order. With a little trepidation we each ordered the following: One 2 by 2 animal style and fries well done, without batting an eye they placed the order and sent us along our way! In and Out has a complete secret menu to order from! We were pleased with the meals we received and we may have to try another secret option sometime! It was on this trip that the seed for our adventures was planted!


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## Bob Dylan (Apr 17, 2014)

Heresy! No California Burger Chain will Ever match the Mom and Pop Joints that still exist in most towns!

In and Out just opened in Austin and the New Arrivals are going crazy lining up for hours to get their fix like its a 4 Star Parisian Bistro or something!

They're Good but not Great and I say that as someone who knows that the 2 Joes Know Food!


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## CaliforniaMom (Apr 17, 2014)

Still enjoying your report, MM! How long was your bus ride in total? I have to say I hate bus rides, probably couldn't last more than an hour on one.


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## pianocat (Apr 17, 2014)

Great trip report! I particularly like this reference to the Greyhound bus, "Readers will appreciate that we were pretty dam thrilled to be getting off that bus. " Glad I'm not the only one who doesn't like the 'dog'......


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## rrdude (Apr 17, 2014)

In-And-Out is as good as it gets for a chain, and it's DAMN GOOD. Beats the food u get at a lot of

"locals" (maybe not Threadgill's Jim) but doesn't beat the atmosphere of the locals.


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## AmtrakBlue (Apr 17, 2014)

Jake's Wayback is good too.


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## caravanman (Apr 17, 2014)

Very enjoyable read. I think that one of the things I enjoy about my own trips stateside is the juxtaposition of luxury and comfort with gritty bus rides and rough characters!

Ed


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## GG-1 (Apr 17, 2014)

What was your opinion of The D Hotel downtown, it is recently refurbished and renamed.

Aloha


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## Michigan Mom (Apr 17, 2014)

I'll try to respond to a few posts before continuing. CalMom, the California bus ride is scheduled at 1010-1655, with the half hour meal break included. We didn't leave until maybe 11? And arrived close to 6p. I think Amtrak should list all the stops instead of making it sound like it just goes to LAS, so people can be more informed in their decision making. After all, the Kingman routing indicates the stop at Laughlin. Hess, I have heard about that "secret menu" but this was a first maybe only visit, so I didn't even get as adventurous as the onion option. The regular cheeseburger was actually a double, with lettuce and tomato. Tasted so much better than expected. Seemed like they actually used fresh ingredients. Like Bill said, really, really good.

GG, the D hotel, especially considering how close it was to the bus station, was a nice place to rest for the evening. i would not want to plan a lengthy stay there, and the downtown area despite having strollers and little kids in evidence, really is not a family atmosphere, especially in the evening and later. Fremont Street in general I'd recommend more for adults without kids. But we were more than happy with the hotel, it was a bargain compared to Strip hotels, and our room was clean, comfortable and quiet (facing towards the mountain away from Fremont). Unfortunately, from our perspective anyway, even our nonsmoking room had a smoke smell. It is particularly concentrated on this property for some reason. Staying only one night there was no reason to complain. It might be the way all the downtown properties are. Also, I have to say the D Grill was excellent. Service was friendly, nice atmosphere and the food outstanding. And again unlike many of its Strip counterparts, affordable. With the 5$ off coupon received at checkin, our breakfast was not only enjoyable, it was an excellent deal. Recommend!


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## trainman74 (Apr 17, 2014)

hessjm said:


> In and Out has a complete secret menu to order from!


They have some of the items listed on their official website now, where they actually call it the "not-so-secret menu"! Although what I've heard is that you can get just about anything you can think of involving any of the ingredients they have in the restaurant, just as long as you can describe it to the cashier and he or she can then pass it along to the cooks.

I do love Animal Style. Now this thread has gotten me hungry.


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## SarahZ (Apr 17, 2014)

MM - they do use fresh ingredients.  That's why they won't expand. Otherwise, they'd have to ship the meat and such in freezer trucks.

I always get a double-double, fries well done, and a Neapolitan shake.

I miss In-N-Out so, so much. I love that place. It's my treat every time I go to CA. I doubt I'd eat there often if I lived there, but in a way, that's what makes it so special... that I only get to have it once every few years.

The last time I flew out there, Brent and I stopped at an In-N-Out near SFO because we simply could not wait. We were on our way to meet friends, so we texted them to say, "Sorry. Give us 15 minutes. We couldn't pass this place without stopping." They understood.


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## OlympianHiawatha (Apr 17, 2014)

Imagine if they had an _*In-N-Out*_ at LA Union Station!!! Then I'd be in real trouble trying to decide between there and _*Philippe*_!


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## Michigan Mom (Apr 17, 2014)

So where'd I leave off.... oh yeah, we'd left Kingman AZ, to fall asleep and wake up a few hours later in Flagstaff, 530ish. This is a major stop for both the coaches and sleeper cars. The SCA told me people will board at Flagstaff in a roomette and disembark at ABQ. It got me to wondering if Amtrak loses revenue on sleeper sales for short distances.... but I digress. Bustling Flagstaff, before sunrise, and I could smell the coffee brewing. It was not enough to keep me awake. A couple of hours later, I stumble up the staircase for a cup of that coffee and then come back down to the roomette, informing my daughter that she can either sleep in or have breakfast in the diner. She is up very quickly. Knocking on my son's door across the hall, he opens the curtain and gives us a glare. Turns out he has no interest in going to breakfast, and reminded me that we still had a sandwich I'd purchased for him the previous night, in the lunch-container-cooler thing that we take on trips. He said he'd eat that for breakfast. So it was just my little girl and me who showed up in the diner. We sat down and watched the landscape, trying not to miss Las Vegas. Presently a woman walked into the diner and the staff motioned for her to sit across from us. She looked so perplexed I felt sorry for her and spoke up: "They aren't going to let you sit by yourself even if the place is empty." At that she smiled broadly and started telling us how poorly she slept in her coach seat, how this was her first and last trip on Amtrak, and how she was only doing this to visit a relative who was unable to travel. I made no mention of us being in a sleeper nor did I recommend that she try one next time, because, well, because every once in a great while, I know when to keep quiet. Let's just leave it at that. The 3 of us did have a great conversation as we crossed the NM desert. She was looking forward to returning to her home in ABQ, and after we got back to our roomette, my daughter was looking forward to seeing the crafts for sale on the ABQ platform again. My son was now up and eating the sandwich, so I brought him a cup of orange juice to enjoy with it. Both kids wanted to settle in with their electronics for a while. Given the scenery I decided perhaps this was the time to visit the SSL car. Neither wanted to come with me, so I told them I would return when the train was ready to stop in ABQ. I stopped at the cafe to get a cup of hot water. I've usually got a few green tea bags somewhere in my luggage, since it's never all that difficult to get hot water, somewhere. The SSL car was surprisingly empty, and I settled in by one of the windows. It is definitely a broader vantage point than the sleeper window, and since it wasn't crowded, I stayed. Soon, the announcement came that ABQ was coming up, and I got up to make my way back. The SSL car was located behind the dining car on the way to our car, and when I was about to cut through the dining car, 3 small children (2 under 5 I would say) stopped me and asked for assistance in finding their parents. It didn't help my peace of mind when the youngest took off in the opposite direction, while her brother (?) told me that she "wasn't supposed" to run off. As it turned out, they were with different family members, one in coach, one in a roomette, and the dining car attendant helped me reconstruct where each kid should be headed. It was kind of weird, though. Again, not mine to judge....but at least, I knew where my kids were, and I was late getting to them because of that situation. The train had stopped by then and my daughter was visibly relieved when I showed up at our roomette. It will surprise no one that my son stayed onboard while we girls ventured outside. Previously, I had looked through our cash reserves, setting aside SCA and diner tips, and the rest pretty much was spent at the craft tables, not that we made anyone rich from that  When we boarded the train again, we met our SCA, Peggy. She's a marvel, vivacious and hardworking. She had her hands full, too, as our car was always full. Evidently this is more likely to happen with the car closest to the diner. After our chat with Peggy, we went to lunch and for the first time, did not have anyone seated with us. Although we did enjoy meeting people on this trip, it was also nice to be left to our own devices. We had hoped to see the diner crew from Train 3 but these folks were just as good with different personalities. I gained a litte insight and found out that the mystery meat described earlier was indeed, pork loin. The "healthy" option is prepackaged and no substitutions can be made to what comes with it. Which is fine, but for whatever this is worth, I think Amtrak should not load pork dishes onboard and serve to people who order beef. Anyway, at lunch we got 2 adult burgers and one kid hotdog meal. One thing I will keep in mind for future trips is to pack some variety of fresh vegetables in our little cooler. Carrot sticks, celery, anything. It's great to have meals onboard but at some point I would have sold one of my kids for an honest to goodness vegetable (i.e., not corn or potato). The little salad dishes at dinner do probably comprise one vegetable serving.. not enough for a day. Anyway, we while away the afternoon, knowing it's our last day on the train as we will be arriving in Chicago the next day for a connection to the Wolverine home. We find ourselves a bit tired from the lack of sleep the previous night, and all of us take catnaps in between lunch and dinner. Any stop that is announced that gives us an opportunity to get outside and stretch for a few minutes, maybe even walk a bit - I'm out there. These stops were always well announced, as were the brief stops where staff indicated people would not be able to detrain if it were not their destination. As the sun begins its slow descent and we have given our dinner reservation time for 530, my son announces that we have a mini-crisis brewing. At least, it's evidently a teenage boy crisis.

Next up: Sports: How important Can a game be??


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## rrdude (Apr 17, 2014)

Peggy = Great TA-S


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## Michigan Mom (Apr 18, 2014)

Peggy is definitely awesome. So was Paul.

So, late desert afternoon, sunny, expansive. I had fallen asleep but woke up before the announcement for 530 dinner reservations. The crisis unfolded when we called across the aisle for MI Son to get himself ready for dinner. Ah, but it seemed there was an all important hockey game on at the same time. Something about the Redwings and playoffs - I really couldn't tell you, but it necessitated him being able to get a signal and listen on his phone - I'm not understanding that either. If anyone out there can tell me what electronics are needed (and how expensive they are) to take on a trip so various sports events can be listened to, I'm thinking I can get a few more years of family travel here. He is an honors student and I wouldn't be adverse to getting him a scanner or whatever is needed. Maybe I should go to Radio Shack and ask. Anyway...he strongly didn't want to be preoccupied with his phone in the diner, and I agreed. Having been essentially a solver of problems in my previous job, this was an easy one. I'd simply fill out the ticket for the server and ask to bring his meal back to him in a to-go carton. Sarah, I was wishing at that moment for a stop with an In and Out Burger adjacent to the platform  Anyway, problem solved, and off we went, MI Daughter and I. We were seated across from an older couple, very gracious and dressed to the nines. They had to be in their later 70s, yet clearly enjoying life to the fullest. They had pretty much traveled the globe and had many interesting tales to tell, often engaging my daughter in the conversation, which I thought was very kind of them. Time went by quickly and we had even finished our desserts, we all left our tips on the table, and the couple bade us good evening. The dining car staff had brought us an extra dessert for my son, but we were still waiting for his to-go dinner. When the server walked by I asked him about it and he replied, "Oh, I took him his dinner some time ago." Can you imagine how considerate that was? We didn't even ask for that service. So we took his dessert back to the car and found him with earbuds on, frowning. I know when not to ask him about the progress of a game so I just collected the used dishes and silverware in the same bag they were packed in, disposed of the paper trash, and took the bag back to the diner. I'm really not sure about these new plastic plates. Designed to withstand high power microwaving, I am sure they can be washed and resused, at the very least recycled? Does anyone know? It's not very "green" to dispose of this amount of recyclable waste.

Anyway, a last evening winding down for the night on the train, I tell my kids that the rough track is just like a free massage. If you say that out loud you can actually think of it that way  We fall asleep somewhere between CO and KS, crossing states while I don't have to be the driver  What....a feeling....awesome.

Later: Still sunshine but back in the Midwest


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## Michigan Mom (Apr 18, 2014)

We are up in time for breakfast and are happy to see our diner staff friends from the previous evening. I really was floored how nice it was for the guy to take my son his dinner so he wouldn't have to wait. I was so glad that good tip planning meant that I had enough ones and fives to tip appropriately for all meals. They work very hard. Anyway, all 3 of us went to breakfast and this time they seated an older woman with us, who clearly liked children and she seemed to enjoy talking with my little girl, who once again enjoyed the attention. When that nice man took our orders he warned that the vegetables in the omellete were the same corn medley thing that had followed us all during Trains 3/4 and appeared in many dishes, but my son wasn't picky. I had the chef special burrito with egg and pepper jack, my daughter went for her last Railroad French toast, and our companion had the scrambled eggs. The "Wild West" views from the window had given way to more Midwest, although the weather was still nice. You start to get this feeling about then, as in, it will be good to get home of course, but a great vacation coming to an end is still a bit of a downer. The daily grind against Las Vegas is simply an unfair match  Afterwards we returned to our rooms and we moved our bags to the luggage rack in the hall so we could help Peggy by getting as much ready as we could. With seats in the daytime configuration, we watched the scenery, started packing and checking for odds and ends, and chatted. Well, my daughter and I chatted, my son decided that vacation was truly over and started trying to work on chemistry problems. The morning seemed to fly by and before we knew it, the diner called for 12:00 lunch reservations and we went back for the last train meal. The entree salad was not bad, mostly Romaine and a few cherry tomatoes, and could be ordered with or without grilled chicken. I was happy to just have a salad. Our dining companion was having a wondeful time and loved everything about train travel, including the food. Her enthusiasm was contagious - I'm not someone who would ever get that excited about the softness of a roll. But she was that excited and engaged about everything, and freely shared her knowledge, which was considerable, and her many travel experiences. I love hearing the perspective and knowledge from folks who have truly traveled the world. She had also lived in a number of places but was very happy with the retirement home she and her husband got in New Mexico. Not only did this last train meal pass by very quickly, but the diner had cleared and the staff were putting things away and we were still chatting. Our gergarious companion wished us safe travels and we wished her the same, we left our tips and she reminded us to explore the wonders of New Mexico on future trips. When we returned to our sleeper, Peggy had finished readying the room for arrival so we retrieved our bags and continued to search for anything that might have fallen or been misplaced. Freight traffic near Chicago slowed our arrival and we pulled into Union Station about an hour late. The plan had been to shop and pick up dinner for the 6 pm Wolverine trip home, but the shorter layover created a narrower window in which to accomplish this and we learned, or were reminded, of a few things to keep in mind about weekend store hours in the Loop area..

Next up: In Search Of


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## Green Maned Lion (Apr 18, 2014)

Interesting. I found Las Vegas so depressing I ended up leaving two days early and spending some time in Colorado.


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## Michigan Mom (Apr 18, 2014)

If you don't mind my asking, Lion, what depressed you about Vegas? I want to live there 

And, it's time for the last installment, to wind up the Great SW Chief Excursion of 2014. We are arriving into Chicago, and the topic of discussion is whether or not we can wait in the Metropolitan Lounge. We are not connecting TO a sleeper, but we arrived on one. MI kids think I have nothing to lose by asking the attendants inside, so we go in with our tickets. It turns out that sleeper car accommodations are eligible to spend the layover in the Lounge, even if we are not connecting to another FC service. So we set up shop there, it was not at all crowded as the LD trains had all left for the afternoon. We have only an hour and a half to go out and find food for dinner, and son wants to take advantage of the internet access to email everyone in his study groups and so on, rather than go out into the city. He said just get him any type of packaged roast beef or turkey sandwich and a banana or apple and a drink. Us girls leave him in the lounge, on his computer, with all the luggage and we head out into a beautful warm Chicago afternoon. Relying on memory here, pretty sure there was a Walgreen's on Madison going east a couple blocks. While that isn't where I would normally look for food, I'd noticed that recently the chain has introduced some semi "fresh" to go offerings such as salads,sandwiches and other snacks including fruit, yogurt parfaits and so on. Plus I thought we could pick up some milk, lemonade and maybe an adult beverage  We walked over the Chicago river and after some second-guessing, spotted the Walgreens on Madison and sprinted across the street. It was closed. ***? On a Saturday afternoon? I looked at my watch - it was exactly 5 pm. Well, maybe they closed at 5 on Saturdays, which seemed odd in the big city, a sentiment echoed by someone else who walked up behind us and tried the door. No matter. It's a big city, we'll find another one. We didn't want to venture too far away though, knowing they would board that Wolverine at 530 and that it would be difficult to get seats together. So we turned to head back west and saw a CVS across the street. We ran up and found it, too, was closed. No matter, we pressed on, and circled back to the CVS that was kitty corner from the station. According to the sign it was never open on weekends at all.

Wow. To look at the positive side, we just had a brisk combination walk/sprint around Chicago on a beautiful day, and after being on vacation we needed the exercise. on the negative side, we had a strapping 6 foot lanky teen who had not eaten much that day and who wanted something other than train food. We figured at least we could go back to the station and get something there, so we walked/jogged back and looked around. It was only a few minutes away from boarding time by then. What places were open had dreadful lines (Mickey D/s) or were sold out of everything (Corner Bakery) or didn't have anything that either kid was interested in. Relay's the convenience store had prepackaged sandwiches, so I grabbed one of those, a couple bananas, chocolate milk and we were on our way back to the lounge. At checkin the attendant said there would be snacks available but in reality each time a basket of chips was brought out, it was emptied with lighting speed and I asked if I could have just one for my daughter, whereupon the nice attendant set out another basket. We took a bag of chips for her and collected our belongings in anticipation of the boarding call. The attendant called us to the front of the lounge then changed her mind upon seeing the congestion, taking us around the back way, through the same door that was used to board the LD trains. She kindly directed us towards our track and we joined the queue, with boarding already well underway. As with previous trips, there was a conductor who appeared to be directing people to the cars where they wanted people to board. When we got to the front of the line, a passenger on the adjacent track claimed his attention and he stepped away to help him. So we waited. After a few seconds, certainly less than a minute, a woman tapped my shoulder aggressively and asked us to keep moving. I replied that we were waiting for the conductor to let us know which car to board. Based on over a decade of Wolverine travel, they always had specific cars for specific stops. The woman said, in a very condescending tone, "That has never mattered before." Well, yes it has and I told her as much. She frowned and stepped back for a moment, while my son, looking over his shoulder at the crowd and at the man who was occupying the conductor's attention, said, "Mom, that person seems like they have a major problem. Let's just get on." So we walked up a couple of cars, and then saw the other conductor, who, when asked where we should board, said, 'It doesn't matter on weekends." OK, never heard this before but whatever. We climb the stairs and get on. The car is full. I'm thinking I'd like to sit next to my little girl even though son is fine by himself. We walk all the way through the train a couple of times and find nothing. Finally a conductor (the one who was helping a passenger on the next train over) moved a couple of single passengers so "this little girl can sit with her mother" and my son sat a couple rows away with another young man, and we roll out of Chicago on our way home. I really do not remember when the last time I took a Saturday night Wolverine out of Chicago (that wasn't in BC) but this is another one of those experiences not to be repeated. We were apparently in the Kzoo car, with apologies to Sarah but it was unbearable. Loud drunks, lots of weird smelling food and people standing in the aisles, carrying on, loud screeching converations and laughter. It's fine that people were enjoying themselves but there was no break in the volume, in fact even listening to music or a movie with earbuds was impossible Each time the female conductor came through, I thought for sure she would say something, but she merely kept going. I have seen her before on other trips, and have also learned that if you get the odd conductor who gives every indication that they hate both people and their job, they aren't going to change, and the only thing to do is to smile and minimize contact with them. Actually you can forego the smile and they won't miss it, having lost the ability to respond in kind. I'm really not sure what it is about the Wolverine, maybe it's the consistent sold out crowds, maybe some other reason but there is a 50/50 chance your onboard crew look like they hate humanity. The noise level, not to mention the smells (my son's seating companion opined that one of the worst examples detrained at Niles, although the car retained the smell of body odor for some time afterward) and the erratic service all make this an example of a service to avoid. Many years ago, MI Mom's ex husband used to take Amtrak from Detroit to Ann Arbor and back and he used to ask the staff if the train was on time. His favorite response was, "It's today, isn't it?" Sadly all these years later and the Wolverine is as erratic as ever. We lost a little time enroute, announced with the perfuctory, meaningless apology and then then when we finally left Jackson, thinking we'd only be a half hour late home. But just then an announcement was made that due to a "signal problem" the train would only be able to go 15 ("that's one-five") miles an hour, and that "they were looking at the problem" and they would let us know if "it was fixed." Well I tell you what, I'd trade 6 million useless apologies if they had just followed up with anything. That was the first and last description of the problem. We had moved from the crazy loud obnoxious car, to another car where there were a couple empty seats, which was slightly more relaxing, but also had a family with babies that apparently didn't know how to dispose of diapers so the smell didn't pervade the entire car. Really people it's not that difficult. Wrap them up and then put them in plastic bags, tied up tightly and then put them in the trash. But at least the noise level was down, except for when the ladies from that one car went to the cafe car and back. Never heard such loud consistent conversation. The train crawls along, and I think the short distance from Jackson to Ann Arbor was covered in something close to 2 hours. Signal problem? Speed restriction? Whatever it is, it sure doesn't make sense to most passengers. I usually try to find a silver lining, which in this case, it got us over missing our vacation time, and looking forward to getting home and cleaned up and into bed. There are several people I know professionally who now drive between Ann Arbor or Detroit and Chicago on business, who will not take the train. After this experience I can no longer in good conscience advocate anything differently, and recently one of them had said to me, "There is nothing you could say to change my mind." I'm still hopeful for the future of train travel and for more and better Michigan-Chicago services. But this segment on the Wolverine was comparable to the Greyhound ride across the desert..... minus the rest stop and scenery. It was definitely an adventure, and overall, I know my kids had a great vacation, and we made some memories in the process. Thanks for reading and for the comments, enjoyed those more than the writing!

MM


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## greatcats (Apr 18, 2014)

Great reporting job, Michigan Mom, and my congrats to you for taking your kids ion this somewhat adventurous journey! Most if it sounded pretty good, excepting Greyhound and the Michigan trains. I have not been on Greyhound in over ten years and have never been on the Michigan trains. You may have read my recent report on the UK where I found it necessary to complain about the 40ish ill behaved drunks on United Airlines. They were disgusting. Had they been on Amtrak, they might have been met by the police at the next grade crossing


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## SarahZ (Apr 18, 2014)

The "Kalamazoo car" gets a lot of overflow from the "U of M" car(s), since those get so unbelievably packed on the weekends. You end up with a billion college students, high on weekend fun, heading back to their respective campuses. I don't blame you for being annoyed, and I take no offense. I'm happy the train is so busy, but on the other hand, yeah... it's crazy.

Our favorite trick is to head for the car that holds the Michigan City and New Buffalo passengers, as they get off at the beginning of the run. We enjoy a nice, empty-ish car until we hit the outskirts of Kalamazoo, whereupon we move forward to the Kalamazoo car so we can get off at the platform with everyone else. 

You'll be happy to know that service will be speeding up once they finish the tracking between Kalamazoo and Dearborn. It will be 110 mph, just like the portion from Kalamazoo to Porter. This should also prevent the general delay nonsense. Additionally, we're getting new cars (bi-levels), which means more capacity (yay!). Plus, there's a hope that they'll add service, as in having more trains daily. That should also help with capacity.


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## Bob Dylan (Apr 18, 2014)

Since y'all live in Michigan you probably know about Business Class on the Wolverine, I'm not sure what they charge now for the upgrade but I've always found it worth it on this Route! (I used to ride Detroit-Chicago a couple of times aonth!) Perhaps your colleagues would find this a reason to give the Train a try instead of riding in the zoo car with the animals!

And things Closed in Chicago on the weekend????? Unbelievable and strange!


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## SarahZ (Apr 18, 2014)

BC is kind of ridiculous, even if you book way in advance. It used to be about $16 extra, but lately it's been more like $60-70 extra (on weekends - I'm not sure about midweek, and this is just my experience). Boarding first and having a quiet car is really nice, but it's not worth it for us since we live so close. It defeats the whole "cheaper than gas" thing at that point.

We only use BC if it's part of our point redemption on an LD trip.


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## Green Maned Lion (Apr 18, 2014)

All the people gambling, but not only that, taking no joy in it.


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## Bob Dylan (Apr 19, 2014)

Thanks Sarah, I used to pay $12 to Upgrade to BC from Detroit to Chicago, I agree that $50+ is too much and would only book this with an AGR Award as you said!


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## Michigan Mom (Apr 19, 2014)

Jim, I can attest to what Sarah was saying about the fare increase... and I can't blame Amtrak because the inventory apparently always sells out quickly. I was looking at DET-CHI with a colleague recently and the days of the 12$ upgrade are definitely gone the way of the dinosaur. Our employer pays for coach travel and I expect most employers would have a similar policy; then the employee pays the upgrade cost. If available you really have to consider whether it's worth paying 80$ for. Also, to clarify, I'm not trying to trash Wolverine service and use it at least 6 times a year. I just wish things about it were better  15 mph all the way from Jackson to Ann Arbor because of a "faulty switch" is not something that is going to make sense to the non-foamer, and it was torture. The early morning departure does seem to have the fewest issues, but that's just my personal observation.


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## SarahZ (Apr 19, 2014)

Michigan Mom said:


> The early morning departure does seem to have the fewest issues, but that's just my personal observation.


I think you're right. We tend to ride the 9:25 Wolverine, which would be the first Wolverine of the day, and I can't remember ever having to wait more than 5-10 minutes. Hopefully, once the track is upgraded, we'll see a lot more of that. (Obviously, if there's a delay on the Chicago or Pontiac end, that'll trip it up, but at least the majority of the track will be upgraded.)


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## Michigan Mom (Apr 19, 2014)

Edited last entry for some typos, hope I got them all. Lion, that is an apt observation about Vegas, so many people on the slots, 24/7. It's humanity so it's worth seeing, in a way, and there are things about humanity that depress me a lot more. And maybe they are enjoying it. Some people budget a certain amount and play until it's gone, and then quit, but unfortunately who knows how many people are losing money they can't afford. It was more fun some years back when the older machines made this kind of burbling sound that was a fun backdrop to the long casino walks, the more modern machines and the more modern music now make me avoid the casino floors to the extent possible.


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## Railroad Bill (Apr 19, 2014)

Very much enjoyed your total trip report. Sorry your last experience on the Wolverine coach was not good.

Only reinforces our commitment to only ride coach from CLE to TOL. If we cannot afford the sleeper, we can't afford the trip. :giggle:


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## caravanman (Apr 20, 2014)

Great report, very honest and matter of fact, warts and all as they say, so all the more realistic of the average train riders expectations.

While I would NOT want to live in Las Vegas, I always try to include it in my trips... hotels are cheap if you don't gamble, and warm weather most times! Great for people watching!

Ed


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## Michigan Mom (Apr 20, 2014)

Ed, I agree with your sentiments. And while researching, for fun, "old Las Vegas" I found a site that mentioned the old Amtrak route that was called "Desert Wind." Service ceased in 1997. I wonder if this was what Jim Hudson was referring to, I took the statement literally and didn't realize it meant anything else. There really was an Amtrak route to the city? Why oh why isn't it there now....


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## Ryan (Apr 20, 2014)

Yes, there was.

It's been extensively discussed here.


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## SarahZ (Apr 20, 2014)

Michigan Mom said:


> There really was an Amtrak route to the city? Why oh why isn't it there now....


http://discuss.amtraktrains.com/index.php?/topic/33672-pioneer-and-desert-wind/


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## CaliforniaMom (Apr 21, 2014)

Thanks for the entertaining TR, and glad you got home safely!


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## GG-1 (Apr 21, 2014)

Michigan Mom said:


> Ed, I agree with your sentiments. And while researching, for fun, "old Las Vegas" I found a site that mentioned the old Amtrak route that was called "Desert Wind." Service ceased in 1997. I wonder if this was what Jim Hudson was referring to, I took the statement literally and didn't realize it meant anything else. There really was an Amtrak route to the city? Why oh why isn't it there now....


Aloha

Twice when attending a convention in Vegas, I flew from Honolulu to LA visited with my daughter then taking the Desert Wind, which was packed, then flying home. The view as you come into the Valley at dusk was incredible, And when not driving one could look at the valley.

A Plus to Vegas is the diversity of entertainment which way out weighs the sadness of those that let them get hooked on one kind of entertainment and then loose control of themselves.


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## Michigan Mom (Apr 22, 2014)

Thanks for that comment GG. I hope someday they bring back the Desert Wind!


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## Swadian Hardcore (Apr 23, 2014)

People I know who came from Las Vegas said it really sucks, not a great place to live, they say Reno is better, even though Reno is just a beat-up stop for transcontinental freight trains, trucks, and buses.

I asked you to take the Greyhound bus from Green River, originating at Denver, it's better, but you rode from Los Angeles anyways, so I really don't know what to say. I think maybe you should've stayed overnight in Flagstaff and taken the Greyhound from there to Las Vegas, that bus would be originating in Phoenix and might be better than the Los Angeles bus, but I don't know about that area for Greyhound.


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## SarahZ (Apr 23, 2014)

I don't gamble, but I'd still love to see Las Vegas someday. I like lights.  Plus, there are lots of shows, restaurants, and rides. It's kind of like Disneyland for adults.


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## greatcats (Apr 23, 2014)

I believe there is only one direct Greyhound between Flagstaff and Lad Vegas and it operates in the middle if the night. All the others go through Phoenix. I have examined the schedules from here to LA. And I would have to be pretty stuck to make use if those schedules.


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## Swadian Hardcore (Apr 23, 2014)

greatcats said:


> I believe there is only one direct Greyhound between Flagstaff and Lad Vegas and it operates in the middle if the night. All the others go through Phoenix. I have examined the schedules from here to LA. And I would have to be pretty stuck to make use if those schedules.


All Greyhound schedules from Phoenix to Las Vegas go through Flagstaff, they no longer operate on US Route 93. There's two daily runs, and from Flagstaff, there's a 2:30 PM departure arrivng at Las Vegas 8:20 PM, also Kingman 30-minute rest stop from 4:55 PM to 5:25 PM.

So, in hindsight, I think Michigan Mom should've stayed in Flagstaff for a night, maybe go up to the Grand Canyon, then taken the Greyhound to Las Vegas. But that's in hindsight, and I really didn't think of that option when I first asked Michigan Mom to ride from Green River, which would skip out o the SWC.


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## greatcats (Apr 23, 2014)

OK, Swadian, I stand corrected. The 2:30 pm departure from Flagstaff I would consider taking if I was going to Las Vegas and did not wish to drive. Returning, other than a 6:40 am departure from Las Vegas, I think I would opt for the van to Kingman and then the train.


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## Swadian Hardcore (Apr 23, 2014)

greatcats said:


> OK, Swadian, I stand corrected. The 2:30 pm departure from Flagstaff I would consider taking if I was going to Las Vegas and did not wish to drive. Returning, other than a 6:40 am departure from Las Vegas, I think I would opt for the van to Kingman and then the train.


They should delay that 6:40 AM departure, maybe, but that might affect other connections. It's really complicated to change a schedule when you have lots of connecting buses.


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## Michigan Mom (Apr 24, 2014)

Swad: I didn't see any Green River option, when I booked the award this is the routing I was given, which was fine because we wanted to see LAX station. Coming back was a paid fare and again the Kingman routing is what was given. No regrets mind you, it was partly a learning experience, which happens on many vacations.

And Sarah, your comment on Vegas: It is indeed Disneyland for adults. There are kid elements too, you can "customize" a Vegas vacation in different ways, from family to adult, from budget to luxury, really an endless number of ways to slice the pie. You can dine anywhere from food courts to gourmet. The same can be said for the entertainment; family to adult and expensive or not. People do go there to gamble but you would have no problem planning fun stuff to do and never touch a slot machine.


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## Swadian Hardcore (Apr 24, 2014)

The Green River and Flagstaff options both have to be booked directly from Greyhound. Sorry, I didn't realize this was not possible under your circumstances, since I'm a Greyhound Road Rewards member, it really doesn't matter to me. Road Rewards is great for me because I ride Greyhound so much and I can get a free ticket to anywhere almost every year because the points are done for number of trips, not distance or price paid.

My bad. Yeah, Greyhound has grumpy drivers and some of the routes aren't so timely, but you gotta understand that things happen. Nobody is going to friendly every day. Since you described yourself as "possibly riff-raff", I guess the driver might've thought you really did wnat to abandon your kids. But Greyhound Los Angeles does suck more than over here or in the mountains because of the high loads, congestion, and lots of suspicious passengers.

Still, at least the bus wans't a stinking G4500 that gets passengers sick.


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## Michigan Mom (Apr 24, 2014)

The bus equipment, itself, was fine. I saw some considerably less appealing equipment at one of the stops. But the self description of me as "riff raff" was meant to be humorous and convey a nonjudgmental tone, not meant to be taken literally. I think if you met me in person you would not have for one minute pegged me as someone who would even think of doing what you said. The point is more that the driver, or the security guy, or both, had evidently seen or heard of that happening before. Just like the driver evidently felt the need to warn passengers repeatedly not to drink, do drugs or engage in unruly or hostile behavior. I can tell you the drinking thing was ignored by at least one passenger, in the seats in front of us, but he was very careful and to tell the truth, it actually helped his mood so it was for the best. He was a little scary, OK? I'm happy that it mellowed him out. I am glad you have had good experiences, I was just reporting our experience. We had adventure - it was interesting, to be sure, it makes for some good stories but you couldn't pay me to get on another Greyhound absent some really dire circumstance. Like maybe if it was the only way out of town ahead of a nuclear attack or earthquake. Certainly my kids won't let me book this routing again on purpose.  Every day, every trip is probably different, so each person will have their own experience. C'est la vie!!


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## Swadian Hardcore (Apr 25, 2014)

Oh the security guy! I hate some Greyhound security too, they detained me for taking pictures of buses in Sacramento, and they gave me pat-downs at the Oakland and San Francisco stations. The guys in Oakland and SFD weren't that bad, but SAC security is really bad. They're not nice at all, and they don't give a damn if you try to explain that you are a bus enthusiast, because they don't work for Greyhound, they're contractors, and you can't expect anything much from "rent-a-cops".

As for the driver, probably just having a bad day, common with LAD drivers having to deal with suspicious passengers. The good Greyhound drivers, like the Denver, SLC, and Reno ones, they don't make long announcements but if you break the rules then you'll get a stern warning, next time you get kicked off the bus at the next exit of the road. Or if you happen to be on US 40, I guess they would just pull over and kick him/her out then and there.

At least I'm glad for Greyhound that you didn't post a big rant saying, "Greyhound sucks! The bus smelled like shte. The ac was broken! The seats were broken and dirty! The restroom leaked and the door caved in! The bus rocked around like a boat! The engine overheated and broke down! Never again!" Shows that the G4500 rebuilds had to come first and foremost on Greyhound's To-Do List.

Usually if you see a driver displaying "GO GREYHOUND", then he's probably a bus fan and a good driver.


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## Guest (Apr 26, 2014)

SarahZ said:


> I don't gamble, but I'd still love to see Las Vegas someday. I like lights.  Plus, there are lots of shows, restaurants, and rides. It's kind of like Disneyland for adults.


Yes it is and it is definitely worth the while!


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## AlienSwarm (Apr 26, 2014)

Guest said:


> SarahZ said:
> 
> 
> > I don't gamble, but I'd still love to see Las Vegas someday. I like lights.  Plus, there are lots of shows, restaurants, and rides. It's kind of like Disneyland for adults.
> ...


Can only agree here. I've been several times and I've had a lot of fun wasting my time there.


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## GG-1 (Apr 27, 2014)

AlienSwarm said:


> Guest said:
> 
> 
> > SarahZ said:
> ...


Having a Good time is never wasting time.

Aloha


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## Michigan Mom (Apr 28, 2014)

agreed GG1  Wise words

Swadian, meant to tell you, there is a Trinity bus service that runs between Detroit, Lansing, Ann Arbor, Toledo and Jackson. Probably not in that order. Anyway the Greyhound equipment out of LAX is similar, definitely comfortable and the only difference I could see is that the Trinity bus line has screens where the driver can evidently choose to show a movie. That really does help pass the time.


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## Swadian Hardcore (Apr 29, 2014)

Greyhound actually has some buses with TV screens, where the driver can show a movie, but passengers complained about blaring audio. They also said most of the movies were boring, G-rated. So Greyhound installed an audio system where passengers can plug in their own headphones, but that caused more complications from screens "disrupting" sleeping passengers and eventually they just gave up.

I agree that Greyhound is sometimes boring if you don't sit in a window seat, but sitting in a window seat really helps a lot, and the older buses with quieter HVAC actually let you hear the engine which is surprisingly entertaining, especially when the turbo kicks in going uphill or passing a truck.

I think Greyhound Canada still has the buses with screens, maybe some Canadian drivers still show movies based on his personal preference. This bus used to have it: http://cptdb.ca/wiki/images/f/f2/Greyhound_Canada_1118-a.jpg, but they took them out during rebuilds. As you can see, it doesn't have screens anymore. But it _does_ have VIP seats!


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