I'm not sure thats a fair characterization.I also walked around downtown SLC... it was ok... but be prepared for people to try and convert you to be a Mormon if you go near Temple Square.
First of all, Salt Lake proper is less than 50% Mormon now... it's not likely that someone on the street is just going to pick you out of the blue and try to convert you ...
Temple Square is, after all, about it's namesake, the temple. It's also about our (Latter-Day Saints) feelings with respect to Christ and his Gospel. It is assumed that a person attending temple square has some interest in at least learning about the church, since they came there (we don't tend to go round up people at gunpoint for tours unless the attendance numbers are down). I mean, you would not expect presentations on investing in mutual funds there, would you?
Guided tours are available but optional. Missionaries are everywhere, but I don't think that they are overly in your face. They are there when you enter to say "Hi", and point you in the direction of anything you might be interested in. Certainly they will also discuss the gospel with you too. There are a number of things in the area including the Temple, two visitors centers (with an incredible statue of Christ in the North Visitors center), the tabernacle, the conference center (well worth a visit). If you are interested in geology then there is the family history library and there is also a church history museum.
The Joseph Smith Memorial Building (JSMB) houses a theater where a movie plays. Right now it's a movie about the life of Joseph Smith, founder of the church. Other movies about the history of the church, etc... play at the North Visitors center. The North visitors center and the conference center also houses some wonderful art. There are also some wonderful restaurants at the top of the JSMB. The Garden is great for lunch or dinner and the Roof restaurant is a very nice (but expen$ive) premium buffet. My wife did it for our anniversary, it was amazing.
The South visitors center is more directed to the pioneers and the building of the temple. It's well worth the trip. There is one room in this visitors center that I love. It has a full on view of the temple and you can just sit there and reflect on life or whatever.
Many people enter Temple square and do feel a special spirit about it. Whatever your faith, it can be a moving experience learning about the trials of the pioneers, or learning of the life of Christ.
I actually work for the church, and my office looks over temple square. It's a very different experience working for the church than working for anywhere else, I can tell you that!!
You can see a picture of my office view at My office view
Robert
P.S. Should have added.... The Mormon Tabernacle Choir practices every Thursday evening and has a live program every Sunday that you can attend if you should wish. There is also a organ recital but I'm not sure when that is. You can google lds tabernacle choir for more information if you like.
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