Best Places to Visit Along the CZ and EB

[brianpmcdonnell17]

At the end of December into early January, I will be doing my first cross-country train trip with a USA Rail Pass. Although I would welcome any preferable alternates, I have already selected the routes I will likely be travelling on (SM-LSL-CZ-CS-EB-CL-SS). The rail pass is good for 14 nights (15 days) and involves 9 nights on the train, so I can stop for 5 nights along the way. I have already taken many trips to majority of the cities from Minneapolis east, so I would like to focus on places West of there. I am likely going to spend 2 nights in Seattle and 1 in San Francisco, but the others are undecided as of now. I generally enjoy visiting large cities, but I would also like to incorporate cold weather and snow into the trip, as the two cities I already plan on travelling to have mild winters. Would Essex, MT be a good choice for a stopover? Are there any other towns worth visiting on either of the two routes, or would it be better to visit a larger city such as Denver or Salt Lake City? Is there enough to see and do in San Francisco that I should stay an extra night on such a busy trip?

 

[Chessie]

There are lots of great ski sites around Denver area, some with hot springs nearby to boot. Vail, Aspen, Glenwood springs, to name a few. And the Glacier NP is absolutely beautiful in winter but I generally love the wilderness so I might be biased.

Royal Gorge operates a day train for tourists on the old Royal Gorge route from Canon City which is a few hours from Denver and it might be of interest to rare mileage collectors. I believe there is even a Christmas train.

 

[Lonestar648]

SLC is a close drive to the mountain ski areas, possibly less traffic than some Colorado sites. Whitefish is just outside Glacier, a very nice small town. From Seattle, you can drive up into the mountains for some great ski areas.

 

[Gemuser]

Whitefish, Montana on the west side is the winter centre for Glacier National Park. Well worth a visit.

 

[EmCee Al]

I would recommend a night in Glenwood Springs, CO while on the CZ. The train stops in the afternoon regardless of direction of travel. The Hotel Denver is across the street from the depot, and the Glenwood Hot Springs Pool is a short walk on a nice pedestrian bridge over the Colorado River. Soaking in that hot springs pool with snowflakes in the air is absolutely wonderful! Glenwood Springs is a nice town, which when combined with that aforementioned pool-soak would be a great counterpoint to your other big city stops. There are many good restaurants within walking distance from the depot and hotel, too. One night in Glenwood would be perfect!

If you are a skier, you could rent a car in Glenwood and either go to Sunlight, their local area, or Aspen. You would probably need to stay two nights in the area if that is your choice.

There is not much more to Essex, MT than the Isaac Walton Lodge and the local BNSF maintenance facility. Staying there is wonderfully relaxing because of its remoteness. However, it is some distance to either the East or West Glacier Park entrances if you wanted to go there.

Whatever you decide, it sounds like a great trip!

 

[KauaiJohn]

Vancouver is worth seeing. Portland and the Columbia River gorge are a must see

 

[BoulderCO]

I'm biased, but since I live here and you enjoy cities I'll recommend Denver/Boulder. From Denver Union Station Boulder is a 35 minute bus ride. For a smaller town experience Glenwood Springs is good in the summer but may be very quiet in the winter during your visit.

 

[Johanna]

Earlier this week I spent a day in Leavenworth, Washington. I don't know what it'd be like in the winter, but in the springtime, it's lovely. It's 100% a tourist town - done up as a Bavarian style village to make you think the Cascade mountains are the Alps - but on the plus side, that means that, although you can walk from one side of town to the other in about ten minutes, there are plenty of hotels, restaurants, and things to do.

 

[tomfuller]

My favorite stop on the CZ is Glenwood Springs. I have actually seen someone swimming in the world's largest hot spring fed swimming pool in December.

Unless you want to stay at the Isaac Walton Inn, try getting off in Whitefish, MT which has a greater selection of places to stay.

If you didn't want to go all the way to San Francisco, get off the CZ in Sacramento. My favorite HI Hostel is a Victorian mansion at the NW corner of 10th & H within walking distance of the Valley station.

 

[Metra Electric Rider]

Is Leavenworth the area known for cross-country skiing - one of the few places in the US with a large network of groomed trails set up for the sport?

If you just want to downhill ski, there is of course Winter Park right on the CZ.... (well, Fraser, home of the Brazier).

 

[Riverviewer]

Along with the above suggestions, don't forget to do some eagle watching out the left side of the EB between St Paul and La Crosse, especially around Red Wing. Bald eagles winter there thanks to the open water spots on the upper Mississippi River (which RW has plenty of, thanks to the Cannon, Rush and other rivers flowing into it).

 

[JayPea]

Is Leavenworth the area known for cross-country skiing - one of the few places in the US with a large network of groomed trails set up for the sport?

If you just want to downhill ski, there is of course Winter Park right on the CZ.... (well, Fraser, home of the Brazier).

Leavenworth is indeed known for its cross-country skiing. There are several trails for cross-country skiing there including one that is lit for night skiing. Snowboarding and downhill skiing areas are also available at Leavenworth. It is a beautiful place to visit any time of year and there are plenty of activities all year round.

 

[ehbowen]

There is not much more to Essex, MT than the Isaac Walton Lodge and the local BNSF maintenance facility. Staying there is wonderfully relaxing because of its remoteness. However, it is some distance to either the East or West Glacier Park entrances if you wanted to go there.

True enough as far as it goes, but some Red Bus tours are offered from the Izaak Walton into the park...we took one in 2011. Also, as the only year-round lodging that I know of in the Glacier Park area, it's a Mecca for cross-country skiing; that's the resort's primary business in the winter.

 

[brianpmcdonnell17]

Thanks everyone for the responses. I would definitely like to visit some of the cities mentioned on the west coast such as Sacramento, Portland, and Vancouver, however on this particular trip I am going to go further inland to get the winter experience as well as break up the trip. Also, the ski resorts near many of the destinations sound fun, but I will not be able to rent a car or have the time for a long connecting bus on this particular trip. Given that information, I have narrowed it down to Whitefish or Essex (Izaak Walton Inn) on the Empire Builder section and Denver/Boulder, Winter Park/Fraser, Glenwood Springs, or Salt Lake City on the California Zephyr. Which town would be a preferred stop-over in Montana? Also, how do the costs compare on the CZ stops, and are all of those choices likely to have snow in late December?

 

[tomfuller]

There is a good bus service all year long from Glenwood Springs to Aspen (41 miles). https://www.rfta.com/ For skiing closer to the route of the CZ check out Winter Park/Fraser

 

[CCC1007]

Thanks everyone for the responses. I would definitely like to visit some of the cities mentioned on the west coast such as Sacramento, Portland, and Vancouver, however on this particular trip I am going to go further inland to get the winter experience as well as break up the trip. Also, the ski resorts near many of the destinations sound fun, but I will not be able to rent a car or have the time for a long connecting bus on this particular trip. Given that information, I have narrowed it down to Whitefish or Essex (Izaak Walton Inn) on the Empire Builder section and Denver/Boulder, Winter Park/Fraser, Glenwood Springs, or Salt Lake City on the California Zephyr. Which town would be a preferred stop-over in Montana? Also, how do the costs compare on the CZ stops, and are all of those choices likely to have snow in late December?

Go for whitefish, as the town is more than just a train yard, hotel, and a dozen cabins... if you didn't know, the list I just put down is ALL that exists at the station of Essex.

 

[ehbowen]

...I have narrowed it down to Whitefish or Essex (Izaak Walton Inn) on the Empire Builder section and Denver/Boulder, Winter Park/Fraser, Glenwood Springs, or Salt Lake City on the California Zephyr. Which town would be a preferred stop-over in Montana? Also, how do the costs compare on the CZ stops, and are all of those choices likely to have snow in late December?

In Montana: Go to Whitefish if you want to rent a car and explore; Hertz serves the Amtrak station directly and there is quite a bit to do in the local area including a modest ski resort at Whitefish Mountain. Go to Essex if you prefer cross-country skiing or if you'd just like to relax, watch trains, and get away from it all for a day or two (literally "get away from it all;" there's no cell service!). I've stayed at both places and find each of them charming in their own way.

I've never stayed at any of the CZ stops save Reno, where my aunt lives, but just from looking out the windows of the train I would pick Glenwood Springs out of the names on your list.

 

[Rockymtnchris]

Ditto to Glenwood Springs. Most coziest looking town along the CZ route from CO to CA.

Here's a pic of their platform

from my trip...

 

[chakk]

There is also a smaller ski resort a few miles south of Glenwood Springs. The ski resort provides a daily bus service from several hotel locations in Glenwood Springs.

 

[Lonestar648]

Whitefish in MT or Glenwood Springs in CO. or do both,

 

[ehbowen]

A photo of the Izaak Walton Hotel in Essex. The hotel is surrounded by mountains on all four sides.

Although the tracks are close there are no grade crossings near the hotel, hence little whistle action. Train noise was not a problem for us.

Please note that the Empire Builder stops at a little halt about a quarter mile behind the footbridge where this picture was taken. The hotel sends its van to meet every train when notified that a passenger is en route.



[Edit To Add] The fireplace in the lobby of the Izaak Walton. Although the lobby is an "electronics free" zone, well stocked with books, there is free wi-fi available downstairs in the bar. Sorry, no elevator...this hotel predates ADA by decades. (There is a wheelchair lift from the parking lot to the first floor where the lobby, restaurant, and four guest rooms are, and there is one accessible public unisex restroom.)