How about a compromise? A fresh and contemporary experience--plastic-wrapped junk food in a grade school cafeteria-like setting (long lines, no tablecloths, and throw away your own trash (or "plate waste" as some school nutrition reports vividly call it
) on routes/stretches where there are no long stops. But a Fred Harvey-type sit-down meal (perhaps at an extra cost, even for sleeping car passengers) in places where the train is going to be stuck there forever anyway. For example, you could perhaps get such a meal in during the engine swap in WAS, which takes a long time, and always longer than they say it will. Or that place on the Empire Builder out there in the middle of nowhere where we stopped forever, where the coffee and hot chocolate truck lady was doing a brisk business.
Or in Tampa--doesn't the Star sit there for a while between going in and backing back out?
I really am serious--it wouldn't work everywhere, but there are a few places where it could.