Escape from Russia: Version 1: 1 Bus, 2 Planes, and 9 Trains

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Day 9: Harz Schmalspurbahn



I woke up in the morning with the intentions on catching the morning train up the Brocken mountain. So I went downstairs and had breakfast in the immaculate hotel dining room before asking if I could leave my bags in the room till I got back down from the mountain. Then I set out down into The Valley again.



I left myself enough time to walk around the town in daylight as well as catch the first train up the mountain. So I took the shortcut back down to the main square and explored and photographed most of the places I had been the night before and it’s still as beautiful. Then I walked back to the train station and bought the second ticket on the train up the mountain and went out to the platform. The consist was there minus the engine.



So I walked over to the overlook over the shops where I could see them readying multiple steam engines for the days work. Then they brought the second train into the station with their diesel switch engine which appears to be a standard gauge engine on narrow gauge trucks. Abou then they also backed 99-222 a 2-10-2T onto my train and I went and boarded the last car.



I had a wonderful view off the back porch and I don’t care how cold it could be if open vestibules or rear platforms are available I will utilize them. The Train departed at exactly the advertised time and away we were. We passed by the interchange track with DB. Now you’re probably wondering how they accomplish freight interchange with a standard gauge railroad. They have special flat cars they load the standard gauge equipment onto and then deliver with a narrow gauge freight train. A very interesting type of trans load facility.



Then we weaved around The Valley floor for a little bit before we started ascending the grade. Even seven cars back you could here this seventy year old engine really charging up the grade. As we gained elevation I could see flicks of snow that hadn’t yet melted so I was hopeful there might be some snow at the top of the mountain. We arrived in Drei Annen Haus to take on water which gave me plenty of time to photograph the train and use the facilities before we took off again. We picked up a lot of passengers here.



Also at his station we met the little one car DMU they use on runs that have less ridership. We then charged up the Brockenbahn where there were quite a few railfans out and about. I didn’t realize the next station was a fresh air stop so I was kinda miffed at myself for not taking advantage of that. Then we continued up the mountain. The Engine was earning her keep as we challenged the grade up to the top of the mountain. Eventually the Soviet Listening station came into view so I knew I was near he top. I got off the train and grabbed a photo of our train in the snow before running up the last bit of a hill to the observation point.



While everyone else was struggling With the ice I had no problem because I was still used to it. Then I went and caught the first train down which only had five passengers total as most layover for awhile at the top of the mountain. We passed by several cross country skiers on our way down. We pulled into the runaway track to allow an upgrade train to pass. I got a great video and stills of the 2-10-2T 99-234 headed upgrade.



Then we backed back onto the mainline and continued our journey downhill. The Engine wasn’t taxed at all going downhill because there is very little grades at all going that way. We stopped again for a fresh air stop at the only intermediate point on the Brocken Bahn officially and this time I used it before we went into a three way steam meet at Drei Annen Haus. On the way down I could look up the Brocken and see the train we passed going downhill arriving at its terminal even though it looked like a N scale model.



The Nordhausen-Brocken Train was on gleiss 1 with 99-7243-1 (2-10-2T), and the train on the Selke Valley Line was on gleiss 2 with 99-7237-3 (2-10-2T). They only have one water spout so I got to watch them switch the engines around to take on water for both. For the next fifteen minutes three steam powered passenger trains were sitting in this small town. If that isn’t almost heaven I don’t know what else could be. All too soon the train up the Brocken departed, followed by The Valley train, and the last one out was us.



I was having camera trouble because I only had one battery and it didn’t get a full charge and it kept getting onto one bar because as it gets colder in temperature it loses charge. So I spent a lot of time on this trip down the mountain taking it in my hands and warming it by friction heating it. Which seamed you extend the life a bit. I got off at the first Wernigerode stop and walked thru town to get to my hotel and claim my luggage.



They already brought the bags Downstairs for me and I then went back to town. I had a few options for a train an early one and a later one that both put me in München around the same time. The later one was a Full Hour later and it allows me to see the next train up the mountain charge out so naturally I chose the later train. I went downtown and got a table on the square next to the Rathaus. My favorite part of going to Europe is eating at sidewalk cafes. I didn’t have a lot of time between when I got there and the departure of the steam train up the mountain so I ate in a rush.



The Food was fantastic though and I ended up with ten minutes to spare. So I went over to the city gate to wait for the next train up the mountain. And it was definitely worth taking the later train. Imagine my surprise when not one but two engines are taking the eight car train up the hill. 99-7241-5 and 99-222 doing the honors. My photos weren’t super great because some cars turning right got in my shot. But man was that an experience. Then I walked back to the train station.



In front of the station there is a converted shipping container offering Covid tests. And to my surprise it was free so I got my Covid test to return to the USA for free. Then I caught my regional to Halberstadt. It was touch and go if we were going to make the connection because it was only timetabled for ten minutes. The whole ride I was trying to charge my camera and phone thru two various outlets. Then I switched to my next train to Halle and I enjoyed my scenic ride on a branch line opened in 1872. Now the article says it’s a mainline.



Maybe at one time this was a mainline as the infrastructure still appears to be there with a small hump yard along it. And all the station buildings are of decent size clearly built for when it was a heavy duty passenger line in the early 1900s. It looked like we were going to miss my connection to München which would throw a wrench in my dinner plans but somehow we made up ten minutes on our way there. My connection was late which is typical of Deutsche Bahn so my ten minute connection ended up being twenty minutes.
 
There were no seats to be had on this ICE III at all. Well that wasn’t exactly the truth there were about forty empty seats that were all claimed with bags. I stood for the ride down to Erfurt for an hour. Then I finally had enough of standing and I asked a businessman with his briefcase on the seat for the last hour. “Can I see your ticket”. He then asked “was I talking to him”. And I responded “no I’m asking your bag if it has a ticket if it doesn’t it’s not entitled to a seat.” Then I reminded him when you see twenty people standing in the vestibule and you have an empty seat you move your stuff to the ground.



Common courtesy is gone it seams these days in a lot of countries. But now I had a seat and I could charge my phone the ride down to München was uneventful. What was eventful is the station has completely changed since the last time I was here. The Food Court I get “railroad chicken” at is completely gone in fact all the restaurants are gone. But the biggest change the head house is completely gone. They are rebuilding the station so gone is the 1950s head house from the post war era. I quickly walked across the street to my hotel and put my bag up.



My plan now was to get dinner at my families favorite restaurant the Ratskeller so I walked over I followed the streetcar line to Karlsplatz and then I followed Neuhauser Straße to Marienplatz. This is the main pedestrian only street as it has been since the München olympics in the 70s. I then went downstairs and was given a table right by the large bier barrel. I’ve always seen it but never have I been so close to it. My server wasn’t as good as years past but the food was excellent as always. And my dad was incredibly jealous.



After a leisure dinner I then went out to take night photos. First I walked to my favorite market. Before cutting back thru Marienplatz heading towards Odeonsplatz. I detoured via the National Theater to photograph it lit up like the Ukrainian Flag. Then I went up to Odeonsplatz before heading to the unofficial Michael Jackson memorial which is really a statue for renaissance composer Orlando-di-Lasso. It’s an unofficial monument that is the heart of server so arguments in the city.



I then went over to the twin towers and I believe it is the only time I’ve seen the building without scaffolding since I was ten. Then I walked back up Neuhauser Straße and I ran into a street performer _________ that I had seen many years before. He is a cross between a street musician with his guitar, and a stand up comic. I was slowly strolling because I’ll be honest I was somewhat depressed after an argument with Виктория and well the uncertainty of when I might get to see her again, and a work problem. I heard him start John Lennon’s Imagine so I meandered back. And I ended up spending two hours listening to him.



His style is playing multiple jokes with either the lyrics or at the audience. One of his jokes this time was in the Fools Garden song “Lemon Tree” which official lyric is “Isolation is not good for me” became “isolation is good for Putin” and several jokes about the current crisis. Listening to his humor and talking to him probably brought the first non train related smile to my face since I left Russia. Actually I can’t remember smiling like that while I was there either. There is just something pure and relaxing about a good musician and comedian.



As he was tearing down I left to an atm and brought back twenty euros because he totally earned it despite the small audience and because he made me happy again. And I got his CD as a reward for twenty euros which was ok with me. He was surprised to see me come back when I said I would. He was really enjoyable to talk to. I wish I had his charisma. Then at this point it was literally almost midnight so I went back to my hotel. But i did detour via the platforms to look at the NightJet tk Venice depart and the TGV from Paris.



And my favorite open access operator was Algau Express (Alex) was on the farthest track over. I am disappointed to hear they lost their line to the Algau region. After photographing it I then went back to my hotel had a shower and then went to bed.
 
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My hotel in Wernigerode

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Part of the old fortifications

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Downtown Wernigerode

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One of the narrow gauge workhorses

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Two of the workhorses at the HSB Shop

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Look at the size of the diesel it doesn't add up.

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Here is the unique transloading that goes on here.

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Looking off the rear

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Looking at the beautiful Harz Mountains

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Taking on water at Drei Annen Haus
 
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There is the little DMU used for public transport

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You can see an East German border post in the distance

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Rounding a curve in a winter wonderland.

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Working up the steep upgrade

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At the end of the line on a snowy Brocken

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The Soviet Listening Station at the Brocken

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A snowy platform where the snow is at the same level of the roof

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The second train up the mountain charging upgrade

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Look at the second train approaching the terminal. It looks like the size of a model train.

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Three steam powered trains meeting at Drei Annen Haus
 
Day 10: Flying home



I left my hotel at six am for my nine am flight. I walked across the station to the s Bahn and my plan was get whichever one came first the S8 or the S1. The S1 came first and i got on it. However I was on the wrong section as it splits just before the airport so at the next station I got off and reboarded the next section to the airport. It was an uneventful ride. I had problems checking in for my flight because I somehow ended up as an unaccompanied minor.



It took me a few minutes to check in but I was starting to run out of time. I then went to customs where I lost thirty minutes because they only have two customs officers. Then I had to run across the terminal to one of the further gates and they were almost tying up with boarding. I got my boarding pass for my seat which was 5L and I was the only person again in all of first class.



We left on time and we taxied past a repossessed Aeroflot A320. We took off and then it was lunch time. This time I had the sirloin steak and it was ok but it wasn’t cooked the way I like it. I like my steaks rare and this was basically shoe leather it was well done. But I’ll say anything above medium rare is shoe leather. I watched BlackkKlansman and finished it this time. Then I watched the new Ghostbusters: Afterlife and I forgot what the third film I watched was. The flight was really uneventful but what can I write. Most of the flight you sit in one place, watch movies, and eat.



We landed roughly an hour early into Charlotte and customs and luggage was fast. So fast I was already passing Carowinds on my drive home by the scheduled landing time. I had to fight a little bit of traffic on my way thru Rock Hill’s Sprawl. But once I got on US21 it was smooth sailing all the way down to Ridgeway. After that I’ll obscure so no one knows my true location.



Afterthoughts



Would I do this trip again in the same manner. To be honest I probably would because I got some really cool experiences. I had a lot of fun with my girlfriend and I miss her so much. I tried out another one of the Moskva-Sankt Petersburg night train products which was very interesting. I got to see the land my grandmother always told me about from her childhood. And lastly I got a good ride on the various trains of Europe from the refugee train of hope to the HSB. And I will go back in May pending the current situation.



Now thanks to the sanctions my girlfriend has trouble with getting her cosmetics, tampons, and clothing for her, and her mother’s medications. So I will take it in with me on my next trip. Plus my family has created a fund for her family to help them in these scary times of about three thousand dollars. So I’ll bring that too. My father offered to nag our congressmen so we could get her an American visa for her and her family. But she has refused it so far because she’s Russian and Russians don’t run from a problem
 
The Schnitzel at the Ratskeller

Your dinner looks delicious! Do all of the Rathauses in the cities have restaurants in the building? I recall dining in such a restaurant when I visited Hamburg.

What an adventure you have had! Thank you for well written posts and the very good photos.
 
Your dinner looks delicious! Do all of the Rathauses in the cities have restaurants in the building? I recall dining in such a restaurant when I visited Hamburg.

What an adventure you have had! Thank you for well written posts and the very good photos.

I don't think all have one but it seams like a large amount of them do have them. I usually associate them with good restaurants as well.
 
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