Hello everyone,
Well we are back from our trip and I see there were some requests for my thoughts on the trip, so I'll give what I can recall.
Outbound
We departed Memphis on the 10:40PM train #58 and found the bed already put down. We were in the downstairs, car 5800 room 13. Attendant was friendly. But having the bed put down made it hard for us to move around, as we had two backpacks, a purse, and a CPAP to deal with as well. We ended up putting the two backpacks side by side on the floor between the bed and door, but this meant getting up and out was very difficult because we had no place to put our feet. No dinner was served due to the time. I slept (sort of, not really) on the top bunk and my wife on the bottom. Thanks for the suggestion on the 6' extension cord, that was a must! Train seemed clean but really it was an overnight hotel crash and our first time on a train, so it was simultaneously fun and extremely frustrating and sleepless.
We arrived in Chicago on time at 9AM. I think there was a light continental breakfast on the train but we skipped it. Chicago was beautiful -- no snow so we walked about 4 miles down up and down streets to the park and back.
We ate lunch at Giordano's and it was incredible.
Highly recommended to anyone who has a layover. If you want what is in the pic be sure to specifically ask them to make one of their deep dish pizzas -- they push the quick lunch specials during lunchtime because most people don't have 45 minutes to wait just for their pizza to cook. But if you have the time it's totally worth it. Their tiramisu was amazing as well, it crumbled and melted in our mouths.
We departed Chicago on time at 3PM on Southwest Chief #3, car #340 room #18. Upstairs! After this one we are hooked on upstairs! The train was clean and we actually shared the car with the crew -- transition sleeper I think it's called? Short trip to the dining car where we had our first dinner on a train. I had the steak and it was
meh at best (it seemed like an overly-well-done grey lump of sirloin even though it was supposedly a medium flat-iron steak) but we had a nice conversation with a retired mechanical engineer. Slept better that night. Had breakfast and lunch the next day, met a guy traveling cross-country because he was afraid to fly, spent some time in the afternoon in the observation car and then spent the rest of the time in our roomette before and after dinner. Arrived in Albuquerque the next day right about at 3:45PM after breakfast and lunch again.
The bad part was that in Chicago a family moved into the roomette right in front of us, and they put their two small kids in the roomette across the hall. The father/boyfriend/whatever spent the whole time snapping and barking at the kids and the wife/girlfriend, and we got to enjoy eavesdropping him griping at everyone for several hours. Also, letting their kids watch a Disney movie loudly for a while. In hindsight I should have spoken to the attendant who was just a few doors away but after 11PM or so it finally quieted down so we just left it alone.
Return Trip
We departed Albuquerque at 12:10PM on the Southwest Chief #4, car #431 room #4 -- upstairs again! This time our experience tanked
hard. The food was not very good and about halfway through the trip someone apparently had a bowel dysfunction in the toilet just down the hall from us and decided to leave brown smudges all along the stair rail and wall all the way to the downstairs.
I don't want to point fingers but the only family we saw downstairs was an Amish couple, but who knows? Dinner was frustrating because a group from coach decided to sit next to us and proceeded to get completely drunk, and my wife later pointed out that one of them almost threw up at the table. But at least we could enjoy lunch the next day -- until that same group sat a couple seats away from us and proceeded to throw back rum-and-coke like it was water. And a frat-boy group from coach sat next to us and did the same, drinking and being loud. But despite those problems, I asked for the steak again and it was
amazingly good. Seriously, it was a perfect medium-to-medium-rare (and I don't even like medium rare but it was delicious) with a singed outer crust. Seriously, this was an incredible steak, very happy with it. But that was a rare bright spot in the otherwise somewhat-crappy experience.
And oh yeah, there was some really horribly bad bumpy track in western Kansas, really freaked people out... (yeah I know about the derailment, it happened a few days after we went through there on the same train!)
We got into Chicago on time at 3:15PM and after walking around a bit ate dinner at Al's Italian Beef. I wanted the "Chicago experience" so I got the combo which had Italian beef and sausage with both sweet and hot peppers. Which is apparently a gradually acquired taste and it made me kind of sick afterwards unfortunately. Not horrible just not my idea of delicious food. But I finally got some real Chicago pizza and real Chicago beef sandwich so that's crossed off my list now.
Departed Chicago to Memphis on the New Orleans #59 (car #5900 room #4 - upstairs again!) at 8:05PM just about dead on time. Dinner was served in one seating for the whole train due to the departure time, which was OK since there were only a few cars. We were the first ones in the dining car because I had a hunch we should get in early and our car attendant told us we should go ahead even though we weren't sure if an announcement had been made. Turned out we got there early and surprised the dining attendant but he told us to go ahead and sit, and our sleeper attendant came through and it became clear from the laughing and picking that the sleeper attendant sent us on just to mess with the dining attendant. But it was cool because he took good care of us. He was run ragged and I started chatting him up and he stated that he was the
only one working the dining car for the whole trip -- he would handle seating, serving, cooking, everything all on his own all the way to New Orleans! That was shocking but made sense when we considered the Amtrak financial difficulties in the news lately. I asked him what food would be easiest to cook to not take much time and he said not to worry and pick whatever we wanted, so we did, and we had food on our table in literally five minutes! He even told a couple more groups who came in a few minutes later that there would be up to a 45 minute wait for them but he had food on their tables in under ten minutes. We asked if we could just get dessert at the end to take back to our rooms and he told us to go on and he would bring it to us -- and 10 minutes later he knocked on our door and handed us desserts with spoons and everything.
On this leg the top bunk was made up facing the opposite direction as the lower bunk, and for the first time I could actually get onto the top bunk properly without twisting myself into a pretzel. Seriously, if you plan to sleep on the top bunk be sure to ask it be made up so the head is
away from the side with the step. The bunk instructions clearly state this is how you are supposed to get up there. With the wrong configuration (where the pillow is on the side with the step) I found it to be honestly very dangerous trying to get up there while the train is bouncing around, because you have to twist your body around with your feet behind you on this tiny ledge and someone could easily be thrown off balance and fall. Plus in the correct position my head was no longer towards the front of the train so I didn't feel like I was hurtling head-first into darkness and I slept far better than I had any other night on the train. The beds are thin and hard but this was actually very comfortable and relaxing for a change. If/when we ride again I will absolutely ensure I sleep in that configuration, it's so much better than the other direction.
We arrived in Memphis about 70-90 minutes late due to the flooding that was happenning, as the train was required to slow down and watch for hazards. Got the luggage in a few minutes and got into one of the cabs that was waiting at the station and went to pick up our car. We had left our car at the Republic Parking on 250 Peabody Place and it was completely untouched after being there for 12 days. Honestly we expected something to happen to it. But when we picked it up we noticed that, being on the 4th floor, we coincidentally shared that parking space with about 12-15 police cruisers that patrolled the downtown area apparently, so I guess it worked out well after all. (when we dropped the car off two weeks before, there was an LA Lakers game about to start right across the street, so it was pandemonium and we almost couldn't get a parking spot in the only garage that offered overnight parking in the area!) But of course the garage computer ate our ticket and it took 90 minutes and a trip to the ATM in the rain to get cash to pay the attendant, which messed up our schedule for our return trip, but everything worked out OK in the end.
Summary
Memphis -> Chicago was a pain in the butt, uncomfortable and noisy and no food and hard to sleep. Chicago -> Albuquerque was beautiful, peaceful, and relaxing. (other than the grumpy family)
Conversely, Albuquerque -> Chicago was nasty and not relaxing, yet Chicago -> Memphis was very relaxing and enjoyable.
Also, we way overpacked for the trip, but there were a lot of unknowns since it was our first time on a train cross-country. We did not shower, but we did clean up in the bathrooms and used baby wipes once. And I'm honestly shocked that the "cup holders" in the roomettes are so shallow -- given how bumpy the ride can get I'm surprised we didn't have coffee dumped into our laps more than once. We intentionally only filled the tiny cups about 2/3 full to try and make them more bottom-heavy and just made more frequent refill trips, so maybe that helped.
Finally, we found the upstairs to be more comfortable and even a bit more roomy than the downstairs. Maybe it was just our imagination. But there is a definite feeling of more space in the Southwest Chief than in the New Orleans, because the SWC doesn't have the "closet" it just has a hanger with a belt. This means there isn't a wall right next to your head like there is on the CONO. So it definitely has more elbow room than the CONO.
BUT -- if you are in the upstairs be prepared for
a lot more swaying -- so much so that my wife had a bruise on her arm from the CHI-ABQ trip that was still there when we pulled into Memphis some 12 days later! She got banged up pretty badly in a couple spots, but they were just bruises nothing major so she wasn't worried about it and it didn't dissuade her from wanting to go again. But it is something people need to be aware of. Upstairs was a lot smoother and more comfortable in our opinion than downstairs, less track noise and it just seemed to be a smoother ride, but it sways far more than the bottom and you can be thrown suddenly from one side of the hall to the other. There were times I was almost thrown into someone's room where they had the curtain pulled but not the door, and other times I was definitely knocked sideways into someone's door.
All this makes it sound incredibly violent but it's not really, its just a hazard to be aware of. I could definitely see someone older or someone with stability problems having some potentially serious issues from it.
All in all we enjoyed the experience, it was an adventure to say the least, and we were shocked and horrified to find out about the derailment just five days or so after we returned. But we have also discussed taking a train back to Chicago just to spend time checking out the museums there since we didn't have time on this trip, or taking the Empire Builder out to the Dakotas area. So we definitely want to travel by train again. We'll just pack a bit lighter and relax a bit more next time.
Thanks to everyone who gave us tips and feedback before the trip, your ideas were invaluable. Hope this feedback helps someone else planning a trip!