Trip to the Wales Coast and Ffestiniog Narrow Gauge Rwy June 1971

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BlackDiamond

Streetcar Motorman
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This trip was to visit the narrow gauge Ffestiniog Railway in Portmadoc (Porthmadog) on the Wales coast. I was on a trip to the UK staying at my Grandmother's house in South Benfleet, Essex.

I Left South Benfleet June 23rd via EMU train to London Fenchurch St. then Underground to Euston. I had a reserved seat on the 1115 Euston to Wolverhampton on the West Coast Main Line, at that time one of the few relatively fast electrified mainlines in the UK. It was a fast trip on the 4 track line with a conventional locomotive and a string of probably Mark 2 or 3 coaches.

At Wolverhampton I changed to a Diesel MU composed of two 3 car sections that divided at Shrewsbury, one half going on to Chester and my half continuing to Aberystwyth in Wales. After the train divided I was riding in the rear seat with a great view out the rear drivers cab of the track behind us as we crossed from England into Wales.

The original routing I was given was to change at Dovey Junction for the train to Pwllheli, however the guard informed me Dovey Junction was just a platform literally in the middle of nowhere and I was better off changing at Machynlleth which is where the Pwllheli train originated. I was quickly learning Welsh names including the pronunciations, for example the "ll" is pronounced with a "th" sound. Shortly after the Aberystwyth train left, the Pwllheli train another 3 car DMU pulled into the platform. I chose to take the front seat behind the driver with a great view of the line ahead.

We soon reached Dovey Junction which was as desolate as I had been told, where the line to Pwllheli branches off. The line, referred to as the Cambrian Coast Line is a very scenic run through a rural part of Wales along the coast. I reemember one station I think the name was Gogarth Halt (UK term for a flag stop) which was in a clearing in the woods with nothing but a footpath leading to a few houses. There were several occasions where sheep ran across the tracks. We also passed Talyllyn where there is another of the Welsh 2 foot narrow gauge railways.

All the signaling on this line was still manual from signal boxes at stations with passing "loops". Each driver had a token that was handed to him either by the signalman or when 2 trains met they would just hand over the token through the side windows. All signaling was semaphores. I believe the line has now been updated to modern signaling.

After Talyllyn came to a more settled part of the coast where there were caravan (trailer) camping sites along the coast, then Barmouth the largest town along the line, reached by a long bridge across the Afon Mawddach. We shortly passed Harlech Castle which looks the way you expect a castle to look. After a few more stops now running more inland we came to Portmadoc or Porthmadog in Welsh which was my destination. I headed into town and found a B&B to stay in for the night. Not sure what I did for dinner, I seem to recall I went to one of the nearby hotels and had dinner there which was not particularly memorable.

The next morning I remember being woken by the sound of Welsh being shouted outside my window which turned out to be the landlady of the house giving instructions to a man on a ladder probably her husband who was doing some kind of repair. I shortly headed down to breakfast then it was time to check out the Ffestiniog Railway.

This railway was an early narrow gauge line built to haul slate from the hills down to the coast where it could be loaded onto ships or trains. It was the inspiration for the building of the famous 2 foot gauge railroads of Maine, one of which still exists as an operating line, the Wiscasset Waterville and Farmington near Wiscasset Maine. The Ffestiniog uses unique double ended Fairlie locomotives. I purchased a return (round trip) First Class ticket which got a seat in the first class carriage at the front of the train. The train ran to Dduallt where the locomotive ran around the train and took us back to Portmadoc. It was a very scenic ride through the Welsh countryside.

On my return I had a quick lunch at a cafe then boarded the train back to London. Unfortunately I don't have much of a recollection of the return trip. I believe that something in my lunch disagreed with me. In those days in parts of the UK sanitation and refrigeration left something to be desired and I recall getting sick on a couple of occasions and this was one of them., By the time I got back to my grandmother's house I had a fever and was vomiting. I felt fine the next day though. Other than that it was a memorable trip and was my first real experience at the age of 21 of traveling long distance in Britain by myself.

A few days later I left on a trip to Oostende Belgium which my grandparents had arranged for me. I will have to do a report on that trip sometime.
 
Some pictures from the trip. These were scanned from slides so not the greatest:
PICT0001.JPG
Euston not the most photogenic of stations but when you are excited about a trip you are about to take, it doesn't matter.

PICT0005.JPG
On the train to Machynlleth after leaving Shrewsbury when the section to Chester had been uncoupled and I had a view out the back drivers' cab. This is just leaving Newtown just across the Wales border.

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After I had disembarked at Machynlleth. Classic BR DMU. The train continued on to Aberystwyth and I waited here for the train that would take me to Portmadoc.

PICT0009.JPG
Classic BR railway infrastructure with the Welsh mountains in the background.

ffestiniog4.jpg
The Ffestiniog station at Portmadoc.

ffestiniog3.jpg
At Dduallt, where our engine will be uncoupled to run around the train. That is the first class carriage with its observation section behind the locomotive.
 
That picture, at Ddault, is very interesting as it shows the spiral under construction in the background with a work train on it. This was the first stage on the Ffestiniog's project that was so long in the making to reinstate the connection to Blaneau by building a new line to bypass the section that had been flooded by a reservoir.

The location is much more overgrown today.
 
This brings back memories of my brit rail pass trip I took in 1988. I rode a WCML train from Glasgow to Crewe. I ate breakfast in the dining car. Then I rode a DMU that was identical to the one described above. I enjoyed the rear-facing seat with a view looking back down the tracks. Near Chester, we hit some very rough jointed rail. My walkman was resting on the seat, and I enjoyed the music and the view. Once we hit the rough track my walkman bounced twice on the seat, and the third bounce was on the floor with the cassette and the batteries popping out. I rescued the batteries before they rolled too far, re-spooled the cassette, and was relieved that my cassette had not been ruined.

I don't recall the name of the station, but I remember changing to another British Rail train and riding up a mountain valley to connect to the Blanau FFestiniog RR. I too rode in the first class car. At Portmadog I caught another train to west to Pw------ Sounded like pefalley. I spent the night there in a Bed and Breakfast and rode the Cambrian coast line to Birmingham New Street. Then. I caught an IC 125 to Penzance.
 
This trip was to visit the narrow gauge Ffestiniog Railway in Portmadoc (Porthmadog) on the Wales coast. I was on a trip to the UK staying at my Grandmother's house in South Benfleet, Essex.

I Left South Benfleet June 23rd via EMU train to London Fenchurch St. then Underground to Euston. I had a reserved seat on the 1115 Euston to Wolverhampton on the West Coast Main Line, at that time one of the few relatively fast electrified mainlines in the UK. It was a fast trip on the 4 track line with a conventional locomotive and a string of probably Mark 2 or 3 coaches.

At Wolverhampton I changed to a Diesel MU composed of two 3 car sections that divided at Shrewsbury, one half going on to Chester and my half continuing to Aberystwyth in Wales. After the train divided I was riding in the rear seat with a great view out the rear drivers cab of the track behind us as we crossed from England into Wales.

The original routing I was given was to change at Dovey Junction for the train to Pwllheli, however the guard informed me Dovey Junction was just a platform literally in the middle of nowhere and I was better off changing at Machynlleth which is where the Pwllheli train originated. I was quickly learning Welsh names including the pronunciations, for example the "ll" is pronounced with a "th" sound. Shortly after the Aberystwyth train left, the Pwllheli train another 3 car DMU pulled into the platform. I chose to take the front seat behind the driver with a great view of the line ahead.

Nice report. The run from Euston to Wolverhampton would definitely have been in Mark 2 stock in 1971. The Mark 3 - a huge improvement, and arguably better than anything since - came in with the HSTs in the mid-70s, the West Coast getting locomotive-hauled versions. Traction would have been 25 kV overhead and anything from Class 81 to 86 - basically 3300 hp. The much beefier Class 87 with 5,000 hp came in 1974 with the extension of the electrification to Glasgow.

I have never been to Dovey Junction. It has - in theory at least - no public access except by train, and is supposed to be for use only for changing trains - rather like Manhattan Transfer (the comparison ends there).
 
This brings back memories of my brit rail pass trip I took in 1988. I rode a WCML train from Glasgow to Crewe. I ate breakfast in the dining car. Then I rode a DMU that was identical to the one described above. I enjoyed the rear-facing seat with a view looking back down the tracks. Near Chester, we hit some very rough jointed rail. My walkman was resting on the seat, and I enjoyed the music and the view. Once we hit the rough track my walkman bounced twice on the seat, and the third bounce was on the floor with the cassette and the batteries popping out. I rescued the batteries before they rolled too far, re-spooled the cassette, and was relieved that my cassette had not been ruined.

I don't recall the name of the station, but I remember changing to another British Rail train and riding up a mountain valley to connect to the Blanau FFestiniog RR. I too rode in the first class car. At Portmadog I caught another train to west to Pw------ Sounded like pefalley. I spent the night there in a Bed and Breakfast and rode the Cambrian coast line to Birmingham New Street. Then. I caught an IC 125 to Penzance.
You would have changed at Llandudno Junction to get to Blaenau Ffestiniog - which I am pleased to say is still possible.
The place that sounds like “Pefalley” is Pwllheli, as featured in Amtrak Maineiac’s original post.
 
You would have changed at Llandudno Junction to get to Blaenau Ffestiniog - which I am pleased to say is still possible.
The place that sounds like “Pefalley” is Pwllheli, as featured in Amtrak Maineiac’s original post.
I hung out in that part of Wales for a few days riding every little line and enjoyed it a lot. This was several years back.
 
I hung out in that part of Wales for a few days riding every little line and enjoyed it a lot. This was several years back.
It would be even better now, as the Welsh Highland Railway (also narrow gauge) has been restored from Porthmadog to Caernarfon. Unfortunately when we were there - for my mother-in-law’s birthday - it was December, so we couldn’t go on any of the heritage lines. I should have checked her birthday before getting married.
 
Wales has much to see and do. Its full of old castles and mighty mountains and every stone seems to be steeped in history. But for the railfan all these things pale in comparison to the narrow gauge steam lines, The great little trains of Wales.

If you can, do them all, but if you can't, be sure to do as a minimum the Talyllin and the Ffestiniog.

To get the most of the experience, I recommend getting and reading a copy of Talyllin Adventure by LTC Rolt before your trip. In this book he heroically describes how that line was saved from the brink and brought back as a tourist line by a group of bold people who who probably never had begun had they known beforehand what they were getting themselves into.
 
This gets me thinking about planning another trip to the UK. I had great trips to Scotland too. The line to Thurso and Wick was fun as well as the Kyle of Localsh line and the West Highlands line.

I spent the night at a bed and breakfast in Wick. The place had a sheepskin right in the common area. And a fire iirc. I sat there and read Giant Steps by Kareem Abdul Jabbar. What a juxtaposition. I was reading about how someone was “getting abused along the baseline”(dunked on) and sitting in this room with a sheepskin rug.
 
There is a great video of the Cambrian Coast line by Video 125, a Drivers Eye View that has the line from Machynlleth to Barmouth plus the Tallylyn and another narrow gauge whose name I forget. Made in the 1990s IIRC by then the old DMUs had been replaced by class 15x but it still had much of the old manual signaling and token operation.
 
Wales has much to see and do. Its full of old castles and mighty mountains and every stone seems to be steeped in history. But for the railfan all these things pale in comparison to the narrow gauge steam lines, The great little trains of Wales.

If you can, do them all, but if you can't, be sure to do as a minimum the Talyllin and the Ffestiniog.

To get the most of the experience, I recommend getting and reading a copy of Talyllin Adventure by LTC Rolt before your trip. In this book he heroically describes how that line was saved from the brink and brought back as a tourist line by a group of bold people who who probably never had begun had they known beforehand what they were getting themselves into.
Anything written by LTC Rolt is worth a read, even if his style is rather dated. “Red for Danger” is a classic of its kind.
 
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