[SIZE=12pt]Amtrak Summer Adventure 2014[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Cleveland-Chicago-Albuquerque-Taos, Alamosa, Durango-Albuquerque-Chicago-Cleveland[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]May 27-June 5, 2014[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Tuesday May 27.[/SIZE][SIZE=12pt] After planning for several months to ride two narrow gauge railroads in New Mexico and Colorado, we began our venture early on Tuesday May 27 with our drive to Cleveland. I had checked with Julie and Amtrak Status Maps to determine that Capitol Ltd #29 was running nearly on time into Pittsburgh. So we arrived in CLE at around 1:30 for our scheduled 2:45am departure. But after checking with our friendly Cleveland agents, we found that the train had been delayed in Pittsburgh, (cause unknown) and was now running 1.5 hours late. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] I acquired the new Amtrak System Timetable with a nice photo of the new Amtrak ACS 64 on the cover and we waited patiently for our train to arrive. At 4:18am Amtrak #29 led by P-42 locos #7 and #14 arrived and we made our way to the coaches at the rear of the train. Although we had bedrooms for the majority of our trip to ABQ, we had to ride coach to Toledo so as to avoid the extra AGR points needed between CLE and TOL. (Thanks AGR for not making CLE a border city.. [/SIZE]).
[SIZE=12pt] The conductor said our lower level seats were in the last car so we headed down the platform and found two seats together in the dark, but quiet little room on the lower floor of the coach. We left CLE at 4:27 after a quick 9 minute stop and off across the Ohio lakeshore we went. We stopped in Elyria but no one got on or off. We then had quite a few new passengers in Sandusky, still maintaining our 1.5 hour down status. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] The conductor came by as we entered Toledo to let us know our stop was coming up. We had decided not to check our bags which proved to be a bit of a mistake since our larger bags were a bit unwieldy pulling them down the platform to the other end of the train. We arrived in Toledo at 6:23 but we knew we had some time to work with since the conductors and engineers change at Toledo. We arrived at our Car 2901 and our car attendant verified our names and told us to go on to our Room B. Stashed the large bags downstairs and made it up to the room. That was the last time we saw our SCA until we got off the train in Chicago. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] The room was in day configuration which was fine since we just wanted to get settled and head down for breakfast. Train left Toledo at 6:34am and we walked down to the diner. We were seated with a couple from Elkhart, Indiana who had been visiting their daughter in Bethesda, Maryland and had boarded yesterday in Rockville. They had 13 children of varied ages and he was a master woodworker who constructed high quality desks and other furniture for large companies. An interesting couple to speak with as we headed across the NW Ohio countryside. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] Our dining car staff let us know that the commissary had shorted them on several items and there were only scrambled eggs and the continental breakfast available. (Not sure how that could happen but it is Amtrak..) Thus, we chose the scrambled eggs, grits, croissant, bacon, juice and milk. The staff was friendly but business-like and we noted the lack of flowers on the tables as amenities have been cut on the trains. There was a USA Today sitting on the lower floor shelf which I took up to our room. (not offered by the disappearing SCA. .)[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] We returned to the room, but I thought I should seek out our conductor to make sure our tickets were scanned. Our last trip on the Lake Shore resulted in our trip being cancelled (even though we were on it..smile) and I did not want that to happen again. I found one of our conductors in the lounge car and he checked his records and said we had been reported in. He went ahead and scanned my ticket just to make me feel better. Always better to be safe than sorry since I did not want our second leg (CHI-ABQ) to be cancelled for lack of scanning. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] We picked up a few passengers in Waterloo, Indiana and made our way toward Elkhart still a little over an hour down on the schedule. We were thinking of taking a Hiawatha points run up to Glenview, IL if time permitted. We arrived in Elkhart about 8:45 after passing the nice New York Central Historical Society museum and numerous old rail cars in their collection. Operation Lifesaver NS Loco 5337 also passed us by while waiting at the depot. We arrived in South Bend after 10am and another large group of people boarded mostly in coach. For such a significant city, the station is a rather quaint blue block building with a somewhat long walk up to the train platform. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] Moving along toward Chicago we pass the rail yards of several different companies as well as the old rusting steel mills, casinos, a first look at Lake Michigan and finally, the suburbs of South Chicago. It is a foggy morning and the Willis Tower is shrouded with a layer of clouds as we make our way downtown. Past Chicago White Sox stadium and across the Chicago River and in no time we are entering the Amtrak locomotive shops full of engines awaiting their next trip out of town. Good memories of our tour during the Gathering last fall. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] We arrived at CUS at 10:13am CDT, still an hour and a half down on the schedule. Our car attendant did not offer to take our bags downstairs, but was waiting at the door (probably looking for a tip he did not receive). [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We walked up the busy platform and entered the Metropolitan Lounge in a somewhat short line. The two agents were very friendly, gave us the information about storing bags, boarding time for our SW Chief and welcomed us to the lounge’s free snacks, restrooms, etc. (Contrary to some reviews, these ladies were very nice, which I can say has been the case on all of our trips in the past few years.) We took our bags over to the Red Cap in the bag room and decided to head out to the streets for a trip over to Michigan Avenue. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] Bus #151 on Canal Street will take you right over to Michigan Avenue and for $2.25 it is a real bargain. Buses were clean and driver was very friendly. We got off after we crossed over the Chicago River bridge and walked up the street admiring the famous shops that lined the Miracle Mile. We stopped by the Carbon & Carbide Building, Tiffany’s, Sax Fifth Avenue and then up to the Water Tower. Lots of flowers blooming along the sidewalk on this sunny day. One shop had an interesting display of old sewing machines filling the window as we made our way down the street. Had to stop and gaze in the windows at Cartier and Rolex to see what we could not afford. An interesting crossroad at Ohio and Michigan Avenue… [/SIZE] .. Lots of interesting sculptures and architecture as we decided to board our Bus #151 and head back to Union Station.
[SIZE=12pt] Had a nice meal at the Metro Deli and then sat and people-watched in the Grand Hall until it was time to head back to the lounge. A nice display of an Amtrak Loco coming through the vine wall at Wrigley Field to commemorate the 100th Anniversary of the home of the Chicago Cubs. When we checked in to the Metro Lounge it was packed with no seats available for 15-20 minutes while some trains finally boarded. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] We were told about 2:30 to come up to have our tickets scanned and then we were lead out the door. (Kindergarten Walk) .. to track 24 where our Southwest Chief #3 awaited. A long walk to the front of the train to our Car 0330 where our SCA Peggy was waiting to greet us. She explained where our room was and said she would be up to check on us as soon as the train got underway. We put our large bags downstairs and made it up to Room D. Plenty of water, juice and coffee brewing as we passed the refreshment station. I was going to walk down to get a photo of our engines but it was very dark and Peggy said we were running a bit late and that the train would pull out at 3pm. So I opted for photo shoots later in the trip and reboarded. We pulled out of CUS right on time and we were soon heading west through the suburbs of Chicago. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] I noticed we have three P-42s pulling our train. #139, #182, & #205. One seems to be smoking pretty bad when we pull a grade, but it’s nice to have extra power in case of a problem. We are staying within 10-15 minutes of being on time to all of our Illinois stops. Our LSA came around taking reservations for dinner and we opt for the early 5pm time. Lots of wind farms across the Illinois prairie on this very nice sunny evening. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We passed through Mendota and I remember the pizza place where our Gathering “points run team” had a pie last October. Always great memories of our Gathering Gang!!. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] Our companions for dinner are a young couple, Krista and Ryan, from the Kansas City area. She is studying to be a museum archivist and will be doing her graduate work in Rochester, NY next fall. He will stay out in Missouri and work to save for a home when they get married. We have the steaks, baked potatoes and veggies (corn mix that I unfortunately cannot eat) salad, rolls and of course, the cheesecake for me. Claudia selected the chocolate parfait which was also very yummy. Our server was Paul, a tall gentleman with a nice personality and efficient. We have had him before on our Amtrak travels. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] While we are dining west of Galesburg, a special train passed us heading east. It looked like one of the NS Heritage locomotives and part of the train were two or three? New ACS-64 locomotives heading for the east coast service. The train also had a number of strange looking cars, but it was going so fast (as were we) that I couldn’t make out much about its consist. These new locos are made in a Siemens plant in California, so I assume they were being pulled from there by a train that switched to NS in Kansas City??.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] We crossed the Mississippi at Fort Madison and the sky began to darken and it looked like we might get into a thunderstorm, but it seemed to pass us by and all was well for the evening. We had a smoke stop in Fort Madison and allowed us to stretch our legs and walk off some of dinner. Peggy stopped by to check on our plan to have beds put down. We noted we would probably want them down before Kansas City. We crossed over the Des Moines River and now we were in Missouri. A few minutes later we passed La Plata as the sun was heading down in the west. We arrived into Kansas City about 10:18, just a wee bit late, but we left on time. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] Peggy had come by to change our beds and then we headed off to dreamland. It has been a long day and we look forward to our trip through Colorado and New Mexico tomorrow. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Wednesday May 28[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] I am up around 5am and go down for a shower and a new set of clothes. We arrive in Dodge City a little early so we have a short stop which makes the shower go much easier..smile. We are running on time all across Kansas now and it is about time to head to the diner for breakfast. We are seated with a stately gentleman who turns out to be one of the more interesting people we have encountered on the train. He is a 77 year old Franciscan Priest who grew up in Colorado and New Mexico. His father was a miner in the Durango and Silverton areas. Spent his early life in Gallup, NM. He lives now in the Cincinnati area, but spends half the year in Italy leading pilgrimages from Rome to Assisi. He has published several books of poetry and other subjects and was just an amazing man to spend time with. A wonderful morning cruising across Kansas. And I had the cheese omelet, croissant, chicken sausage and milk. Claudia had her favorite breakfast burrito, grits, avocado and sour cream on the side with croissant and bacon. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] Our LSA is Freda, a tall blonde woman who is a take-charge person but very nice. She wanted to set up reservations for lunch and ask that someone be in the sleeper when she comes by. We had chosen to sit in the lounge car to enjoy more scenery, so I went up to cover our time back in the room. She saw me coming through the diner and said “wait, I can take your reservation here and save you the walk”. How nice!! [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] We enjoyed crossing the eastern Colorado lands full of cattle ranches and an occasional antelope running away from the train. We also noted that the lounge car had many boy scouts, and some girls as well, traveling from all over the country. It was interesting hearing them share their stories from back home. Some were from the east, New Jersey and Virginia; some from Ohio and others from other Midwest states. They were all heading for the Philmont Scout Ranch in New Mexico and would be getting off the train at Raton, NM. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] We had a break stop in La Junta, CO where we again changed crews. Our engineer was a female and she stopped to talk to Peggy and Paul as she headed for the depot and her ride home. A nice sunny morning and I was able to get some good shots of our three locomotives. Lots of curves in our track also allowed for some nice photos of the train on the move. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] We spent the next hour or so going through the Raton Pass with lots of rock formations, a tunnel, but no wildlife we could see on this trip. It will be a great loss if this section of the SW Chief goes away to the Transcom route, but I guess we have to wait and see what happens. We arrived in Raton about 11 am and the large group of scouts hauled their backpacks and luggage off the train and on to the waiting bus. We had another nice stop to enjoy the sunshine and check out the Raton depot. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] We spend the remainder of the early afternoon going through rugged high desert and then reach I-25 and the pueblos of several different tribes. We said goodbye to our Franciscan Friar who departed at Lamy for his bus to Santa Fe. We pass some RailRunner trains heading to Santa Fe. Lunch was at 12:30. We have the Amburgers with chips and another cheesecake for me. Claudia tried the orange sorbet dessert but found it too strong with citrus taste. We sat with a woman who had been a postal worker and was traveling to Flagstaff. She and Claudia had a good conversation about their former careers. The other seat was occupied by a man who was a jazz musician who lived near ABQ. He had been playing at New York clubs and it was interesting to hear his stories about his musical career.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] We arrive in Albuquerque about twenty minutes early at 3:30 pm and after checking out the Native American booths on the platform, we walk to our Hotel Andaluz, just a couple blocks from the station. It is a very nice hotel decorated in a Moorish motif with little Kasbahs along the outer walls, fountains in the lobby and several bars and restaurants. Our room was on the 9th Floor with a decent view of the city. The rooms are not very large but have a very interesting “green” philosophy with several brands of nature soaps, recycling bins, water saving toilets, etc. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] After freshening up we went out looking for a sandwich shop since we were still pretty full from lunch. There was a nice Brazilian restaurant across from the depot but we chose Jimmy Johns sub shop, which in the long run was less than spectacular. We didn’t realize there was a Subway a block away at half the price,..smile. Afterward we walked up to the depot and caught the RailRunner commuter train south to Belen. Senior fares were only $2 for the ride on a modern double decker train. We had passed through ABQ several times on past trips and always wanted to ride this train so now was our chance. We caught the 5:50pm southbound and arrived in Belen at 6:30. A brief break and then return around 7:00pm arriving in ABQ at 7:42. Nice scenery along the way as the mountains rose in the east and several pueblos with golf courses and casinos dotted the landscape. A pretty good ridership as there is a transfer bus at some stops to take people into Los Lunas and Bernalillo . Seats are very comfortable with tables available but no food service. This train runs between Belen and Santa Fe.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] We got off the train and walked back to the hotel to enjoy a good night’s sleep.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Thursday May 29.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]A nice sunny day as we take a little walk and find a public square with a Subway opened for breakfast. Their flatbread with egg and cheese and veggies hit the spot. People- watching as we sit under a canopied table outside with the birds and squirrels. Walk back to the hotel and call to arrange our rental car from Enterprise to “pick us up”. They arrive in about a half hour and we are taken to their headquarters on Lomas St. Interesting conversation about all the crazy drivers in New Mexico and how a third of their fleet in NM is in the garage for accident repairs. Drive carefully. We pick up our Toyota Camary and off to I-25 we go. No sooner do we enter the ramp to the interstate than a car has completely flipped over on the birm and officers are awaiting a squad to escort the injured to the hospital. Drivers are playing NASCAR on the five lane highway as we are going 70 and they are passing us like we are standing still. Changing lanes. Reminds me of the I-95 traffic in New Jersey and Maryland. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] We finally get out of the downtown and suburbs and reach a more peaceful drive passing several of the pueblos that we saw yesterday on the train. Most of this area is reservation land. Gasoline is considerably cheaper from pumps on the reservation since they do not pay some of the taxes. We stop for some snacks and then make our way up to Santa Fe. We decide we want to spend more time in Taos so we bypass the city and head north on US 285 until we reach the small town of Espanola. There we turn northeast on SR 68, a beautiful ride through the Rio Grande River valley and the adjoining mountain ranges. We stop at the Rio Grande Gorge Visitor’s Center and walk around their small museum and get some nice photos of the river and the rafters who are scattered along the river today. We continue on down the road and stop at a rest area where one can view the Taos Valley amid the Sangre de Cristo Mountains.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] We arrive in Taos around 12:30 and decide to stop for lunch before driving out to Taos Pueblo. The fee is now $16 which covers the right to take photos and a free tour of the pueblo grounds. My understanding is that they once charged a separate fee for photo rights but have decided it was too much of a hassle monitoring patrons who tried to sneak some cell phone photos without paying. We walk to the church where the tour is to begin. Not a large crowd of tourists on this sunny but cool day. Our tour guide was a nice young woman who gave us information about the history of the pueblo and the relationship between the Spanish and the native population, the role of the Catholic Church integrating with the native cultures, and the numerous conflicts that took place in the area. Members of the Taos Pueblo took part in the Pueblo Revolt in 1680 which resulted in the death of 400 Spanish soldiers and the routing of the Spanish colonizers out of the Santa Fe area. Twelve years later the Spanish returned and retook control. Our guide took us to the old cemetery and remains of the original church built hundreds of years ago. The pueblo people are not buried in caskets but most of their graves are marked with crosses and there are flowers everywhere. Most of the residents only live in the pueblo part of the year. There are about 2,500 members of this pueblo but only about 50 people live there year round now. We were told of the importance of the brick ovens that served as cooking devices. The walls of the buildings need to be constantly rehabbed as they break down with wind, water erosion over time. The pueblo has many festivals and religious ceremonies that are sometimes not open to the public. Many of the houses are used for business purposes where the Native Americans sell their wares, artwork, jewelry, pottery, and other items. I spend time taking photos of the two oldest pueblo structures in the village while Claudia is buying some artwork, photos and T-shirts for her collection. We meet several interesting women who spend time talking about the culture, their families and how there have been many times when outsiders and insiders have attempted to exploit the property. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] A small river runs through the pueblo and was once blocked by an attempt to harness the river upstream. The members of the tribe finally convinced the government to allow the water to flow through the village, a source of drinking water, etc. We enjoyed our day at the Taos Pueblo and the stories told by its residents. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] We left the pueblo around 4pm and traveled back into town. I was feeling a bit tired and having some effects of the altitude changes so we headed to our hotel, Hampton Inn Taos to unpack and rest. The hotel was very nice and had a Southwest design. We opted for some KFC this evening as a storm came up quickly and a brief shower ensued. Although we would like to spend more time in Taos, our tight schedule will take us to Colorado tomorrow to ride the Cumbres and Toltec train so we must leave early in the morning.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Friday May 30[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] We are up at 6 and have our free Hampton Inn breakfast of eggs, pastries, yogurt, etc. and start back through town where we take US 64 across the broad Rio Grande River plain. We stop to look over the large gorge bridge. At 565 feet above the Rio Grande River, it is the seventh highest bridge in the United States. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] We drive past an Eco-village called Earthship Biotech, which was made up of many housing units, some underground, many with interesting structures covering miles of the high desert area. One can rent space there and live in a completely environmental friendly society. You can rent a home for around $150 a night. Might be interesting. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] We turn on to US 285 and head north toward Colorado. There are several mines with large trucks hauling Perlite, a substance used in construction plaster and has many other uses as well. Traffic is pretty sparse this morning and we reach Antonito, CO around 9am. Our train is supposed to leave around 10 so there is plenty of time to get our tickets, take numerous photos of the old steam locomotives and our rolling stock, the station and shop buildings and a trip to the museum shop. We meet a couple from Colorado who are members of the Cumbres and Toltec RR Society and who ride the train a few times each year. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] As the crew gets the steamer ready to go we board our car #501 Antonito, which is a First Class car with tables and chairs in a neat narrow gauge car with a bar area and restroom. There are a few empty seats for the first half of the ride so plenty of room to move around and talk with other passengers. Our car attendant is Daisy and she gives some history of the train and the surrounding countryside. We receive free drinks, a nice thermos glass, donuts and information guide with map. Our train has an open gondola car ahead of our parlor car that one can go outside and take unobstructed views. We were told there might be a problem with soot and smoke from the engine but most of the trip, the wind seemed to blow everything away from the train. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] The Cumbres & Toltec RR is the nation’s longest and highest narrow gauge railroad (3 foot gauge). It is the San Juan Extension of the Denver & Rio Grande Railway. It was first constructed in 1880 from Antonito, CO and track was laid throughout the year until it reached Chama, N.M. in December 1880, crossing the Cumbres Pass at 10,015 feet and down a 4% grade into Chama. Passenger service ended in 1951. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] We were pulled today by Engine #489 a Class K-36 2-8-2. We had coaches Conejos, Cresco, Sublette, Car 520 Combo Car, Toltec Vista Gondola, Antonito ,and Colorado Parlor Cars. We crossed the highway and headed out across the broad valley before gradually gaining altitude through a series of curves and loops. Over the Hangman’s Trestle as we move back and forth between the Colorado and New Mexico border. The docent in the gondola, Russell Johnson, was very informative as I rode out in the gondola for several miles. The Rio de Los Pinos flowed through the valley as we climbed higher and higher. We passed several old water tanks used to fill the tenders of the former D&RG locos. We saw some antelope and many grazing cattle in the pasture lands. Many colorful flowers of purple, yellow and orange hue.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] At Sublette, an old railroad track gang station, we took on water and stop momentarily to view the old buildings that had once housed workers. A man on a four wheel ATV came by with his friendly dog to say hello. We continued to climb higher as the river valley below looked like a small stream from our elevation. We passed through some small tunnels and near a monument to President Garfield who had died during the early years of the railroad. We eventually reached Osier, at which all passengers disembarked for lunch. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] A large building housed numerous choices for our included meal. Selections between turkey with all the fixin’s, meat loaf dinner, salad bar, dessert bar, and hot dogs and mac & cheese for kids. A very nice meal; good food. We sat with the couple we met earlier in the day and found out that Lion Bill had once been a District Governor back in Colorado so we had some things to talk about at lunch. His wife Renee talked with Claudia about the train ride and our travels on Amtrak. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] We had about 50 minutes at Osier and then we re-boarded our car and headed west. We had some new passengers in our car including Bill & Renee who moved to our car from the rear coach. Some passengers opt to ride the trip from Chama to Osier and return, while others take a bus part of the way. Osier was once a thriving little village with a store, rooming house, turntable and coal loading docks. We move down the mountain across the Cascade Trestle at 137 feet above the valley below. Our new coach host was Mercedes, who would ride back to Chama after her ride on the other train earlier in the day. We traveled through a broad valley at the Tanglefoot Curve where we saw a female elk running to avoid the train. We reached Cumbres Pass at 10,015 feet an hour later and we again stopped for water. Saw some hikers stopped for a rest after a long climb up the highway trail. We arrive in Chama around 4:30 and unfortunately do not have much time to view the vast Chama railroad yards before our bus ride back to Antonito. The bus was a modern vehicle with a nice view of the scenery as we moved eastward over the mountain roads. We arrived back in Antonito around 5:30 and then headed north toward Alamosa, CO where we stay this evening. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] We arrived in Alamosa and stayed at another nice Hampton Inn that was almost new. Staff was very friendly and welcomed us as Hilton Rewards members. [/SIZE][SIZE=12pt] We found a nice Italian restaurant downtown, Bistro Rialto, and had some good lasagna, spaghetti, salads, etc. and then went over to take a few photos of the excursion train Rio Grande RR. Stopped at the Walmart across the street from the hotel to pick up some supplies and then watched some TV before retiring for the night. Most of the hotels were full of FFA high school students who were attending their state convention in Alamosa this week. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Saturday May 31[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] Woke up to another great Hampton breakfast and then off to downtown to shoot some more photos of the Rio Grande Scenic RR. Unfortunately, we did not plan enough time to ride this train as we needed to be in Durango by this afternoon. Did have an interesting conversation at the Alamosa depot with two Hispanic men about Amtrak. They and their dog were just lounging on the platform until the train left on its daily excursion to La Veta. Some nice diesel locomotives and double deck passenger cars operate on this line that makes several different trips each week. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] It was time to move west again and our first stop was Monte Vista where a refurbished depot served as the end point of one of the RGSRR weekly trips. A nice little town. We drove on through the village of Del Norte and then stopped at a nice rest area near South Fork. There were many different types of birds flying around and nesting in the trees and buildings. The park had several hummingbird feeders that attracted the colorful species. A stop at the Denver and Rio Grande RR excursion train led to an interesting conversation with the owner about his acquisitions of equipment, the moving of the depot to the site and his attempt to offer a ride at a reasonable price to his customers. We just missed the 10am train so maybe ride the next time we are here. A 3 hour round trip up the river and back with lunch a part of the excursion at Wagon Wheel Gap. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] Next we entered the famous road to Wolf Creek Pass as we weaved our way to the top of the Rocky Mountains. Still some snow on the peaks and this road is one you will always remember. Lots of curves, tunnels and breathtaking (literally) views. :unsure: [/SIZE] We reached the park at the top of the pass and the air was a little thin. Some great photos of the valleys and the waterfalls, but it was time to get down to lower altitudes. We stopped briefly to see Treasure Falls and then on down the road to Pagosa Springs. Claudia had traveled this route over 40 years ago and much was the same except for the commercial development now found on the west side of town. McDonalds and Lowes have invaded the little hamlet. We stop for lunch and then on we go toward Durango.
[SIZE=12pt] We stop at Chimney Rock which is in the Ute Indian Reservation for some photos. Find an antique mall where we spend some time looking at the nice items on display. They had several railroad lanterns but nothing I needed for my collection. We closed in on Durango and found the main street and the Durango and Silverton RR depot from which we would depart tomorrow. It was only 1:30pm but thought we would see if our hotel room at the Hampton Inn Durango was ready. The hotel is on the northern edge of town but is on the Durango Trolley Line which makes it convenient to get downtown without driving. Our room was still being changed, so we parked the car and took the trolley downtown. Its FREE and a very nice ride. Friendly drivers; clean and efficient transportation. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] We arrived at the final stop and were told it was about a two block walk to the depot. Although we had boarding passes, one can get souvenir tickets if you ask at the desk. All kinds of interesting shops and restaurants along the street as well. Arrived at the depot, took some photos and were then told about the great railroad museum just down the tracks. What a fantastic display of railroad and other transportation memorabilia. Steam locomotives, old fire engines, old automobiles, artifacts and history of all kinds; a nice model railroad layout. Free admission and docents ready to answer questions. A must stop when you are in Durango. We decided to walk up the street and look for a place to have dinner. Found an Irish pub that looked promising but first we hopped the trolley back to the hotel to check-in and freshen up a little.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]A quick 15 minute ride drops us off right in front of our hotel and we checked in quickly and unpacked for a few days stay.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] We decided to drive downtown and found a place within a block of the Irish Emporium B&G restaurant. We got a seat in front by the window and could watch the pedestrian traffic while we ate. A good turkey club sandwich with salad and drink. An interesting fellow smoking some MJ on the street. Now that is legal in Colorado and we saw a few “natural smoke shops” proclaiming they had some quality weed for sale… :huh: [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Spent the remainder of the evening going in some shops and in one antique mall, I found a nice Louisiana & Arkansas RR lantern that was priced right. Such a deal! Now I just had to find a way to transport it back to Ohio via Amtrak. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] We returned to the hotel later that evening and enjoyed some fresh cookies provided by the staff before turning in for the night. Tomorrow would be the long awaited trip of the Durango and Silverton RR and the weather looked like it would be great.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Sunday June 1[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] We got up early to make the 7:00 am trolley to downtown. You save about $7 in parking fees by not taking your car to the depot. Although we also found there are plenty of parking spaces in the downtown area that are free on weekends. We started the day with another great Hampton breakfast and then walked to the trolley stop at the end of the driveway. Not a lot of passenger traffic this morning except for a few railroad excursionists like ourselves.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] We walked down to the depot and found the 8:00am train getting ready to leave. This train would arrive in Silverton around 11:30 and then have an immediate bus back to Durango for those who wanted to do other things in the afternoon. We opted to take the 8:45 train which would have 2-3 hours in Silverton, lunch and then a bus ride back to Durango. We were told this is the best option since the return railroad trip is long and covers the same scenery.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] I take some photos of both trains and then try out the movie part of my new camera on our steam locomotive. It came out very well and I am pleased so far with my new Canon camera. Still have to read instructions to make it work correctly…sigh.. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] We opted for the Alamosa Parlor Car at the rear of the train and although it is somewhat expensive, it was nice to have the amenities associated with the car and the nice vestibule ride on the back as we climbed the mountains and followed the river valley. Our car attendant was Kevin, who was very knowledgeable about the train and the historic aspects of our ride. We received some cinnamon rolls (unfortunately I could not eat them due to stomach problems) and free soft drinks, water, etc. A nice travel bag and mugs were also included in the price.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] We left the depot on time at 8:45 am and began our slow climb along the cliffs above the river valley. Our consist was D&RG locomotive #481 Class K-36 with an old baggage car used to carry camping equipment for a large group of hikers who would get off the train further up the line. Coaches Hermosa, Elk Park, covered gondola car, concession car 566, Durango, covered gondola car, McPhee, Prospector, Silver Vista Dome Car, and our Alamosa Parlor Car. Our car was originally built in 1880 as a chair car and has been refurbished several times over the years. A classy car with a full bar and restroom.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] We passed through some ranch property and even a golf course on the way out of town, a prairie dog town with dozens of little fellows popping out of their holes to check out our train. A yellow speeder with two railroad employees stayed behind our train for the trip, looking for areas that needed attention, checking for possible spark related fires, etc. We pass several sidings with very old and dilapidated D&RG freight equipment and old water towers. I decide to head out on the platform and take some photos from the rear of the train. Some nice marker lamps on the rear, but must make sure not to lean too far out since the train is rocking and rolling up the track. Some nice lakes and mountain scenery as we enter San Juan National Forest lands. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] We work our way slowly along the cliffs and now we can see the famous photos taken as p.r. for the railroad in videos and magazines. A long way down to the Animas River below. The river is raging as the snow melt has swollen the river to near flood stage. It is too dangerous for anyone to raft or kayak the river at this point. We cross some bridges and an old power plant whose access was only by rail. Some old D&RG stock cars rot away on another siding as we pass by. We stop to take on water and our brakeman must walk to the rear of the train to act as flagman. Of course there isn’t likely to be another train that close behind, but everyone must follow railroad rules. He later comes into our car and explains his equipment of flares and flags used in the old days to protect a stopped train. The conductor makes an appearance and answers questions about the history and operation of the train. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] We eventually reach an area where the train stops to let the hikers off the train and to empty the baggage car of their gear. This is a service provided by the railroad and there are several groups every week that use the train to get in and out of the heavily forested areas. Snow still covers the tops of many of the mountains that rise 11-13,000 feet above sea level. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] Kevin does a nice job of providing historical data about our train ride. He gave up his regular job a number of years ago to work on the D&S RR and loves it. We have several groups riding in our car including a couple from Germany, some folks from Michigan, another couple from Denver. I go up to check out the Silver Vista dome car and it is very nice. Not that many people riding up there and the next car is nearly empty. Kevin explained how a major rock slide we were passing by at 5mph was the scene of a potential disaster for the train as one train had just passed when it fell. A motorcar man was caught in between the two slides and narrowly escaped injury. The MOW crews must be ever vigilant for these slides. :help: [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] As we get closer to Silverton, instructions are provided for those of us returning via bus routes and others returning on the train. We pull past the earlier train that will soon be departing and onto another siding. The bus and its driver are waiting nearby and he wants to check his manifest before we proceed into town. We are able to leave our things on a bus seat, which allows me to claim the front seat with more leg room..[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] The sun is shining and it is much warmer than expected at this high altitude today. We walk around the town and see the dirt streets and the old buildings of this historic site. Time to find a place to eat. It was recommended to us to try the Brown Bear Café and thus we headed there after some window shopping. A quaint little place with many seats and an old bar that looked out of the old West. We had some soup and sandwiches and a cool drink. Food was o.k. and not overly expensive. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] Afterward we shopped some jewelry and artifact shops and looked for some souvenirs. We were both feeling the effects of the altitude and everything seemed to be in slow motion for a while. Our bus was scheduled to leave at 3:00pm and everyone was assembled to board except for one woman who bought the wrong honey and wanted to go back and return it. The whole bus waited while she walked back to the store. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] We eventually got underway and our bus driver proceeded to document every inch of the trip. It was fine at first but got a little old as we moved along. We climbed along Hwy 550 until we reached a nearly 11,000 foot summit. A nice view of Silverton from up there, but Claudia started feeling a bit whoozy from the altitude. We proceeded along this ridge and then up another 11,000 foot peak which didn’t help anything either. We eventually reached Durango and it was time to get on the trolley and head back to the hotel. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]I went out to Wendys to grab some sandwiches and we decided to stay in that evening to rest. I guess we are both getting too old for these high- flying adventures. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] We decided that trying to do Mesa Verde tomorrow would be a mistake, so we opted to cancel that idea and consider heading back a day early. I contacted Amtrak and they were able to change our reservations for bedrooms on the Tuesday train instead of Wednesday. So that part worked well. Our hotel agreed to let us check out a day early without penalty and the desk staff was very nice and caring about our needs. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] I arranged to get a Hampton Inn room in Albuquerque on Monday night so everything was set for checkout on Monday morning and the drive back to ABQ. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Monday June 2[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] We slept in a bit and then headed down to breakfast. On our way out of town via US 550 and a scenic ride it was. Several interesting small towns along the way including Aztec and Bloomfield, where the old D&RG once traveled on the way to Chama. We had crossed into New Mexico very quickly and now were in the high desert area of the Jicarilla Apache Reservation and the old Spanish Trail. We neared Chaco Canyon but no time today to explore that ancient ruin. We stopped in Cuba for lunch at a local Mickey Ds and then through the Jimez and Zia Reservations, Zia Pueblo and San Ysidro before we reached Bernalillo and the more modern areas north of Albuquerque. We arrived at our hotel in ABQ around 1:30 and our room was ready so we were able to check in. Decided to head downtown and see Old Town ABQ for the afternoon. Also wanted to stop at the depot to see when we could check our bags and get new tickets printed for our Amtrak trip tomorrow. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] Arrived in Old Town after 3 and the place was pretty dead. Very few tourists, still some venders on the sidewalks but our memories of our last visit many years ago left us feeling that things were not well in Old Town. We did find several shops with quality art and jewelry but Claudia did not see anything special enough to purchase. We went to La Hacienda for supper and had a decent Spanish meal but certainly not of the quality of our local Mexican restaurant here in town. We tried to avoid some accidents, a fire downtown and construction and ended up on the east side of town near the University of New Mexico. Found our way back to the hotel and enjoyed a leisurely evening watching some TV and resting for tomorrow’s homebound trip. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Tuesday June 3.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] Our train was not scheduled to leave ABQ until around noon, but we needed to return our rental car and make sure we could check our bags. So we had breakfast, packed the suitcases and then headed down to Lomas St around 9:30 to drop off the car. Enterprise was giving double points for this rental so we accumulated some more Amtrak points. They dropped us at the ABQ depot early and we had to wait until 10:30 before the Amtrak desk opened for business. The clerk was very pleasant and checked two of our large bags and said they would be placed on the Train #30 when they reached Chicago so they would be on our train in Cleveland. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] The WiFi was working well in the station and I was able to see that SW Chief #4 was running on time and would probably be in ABQ by 10:45 almost an hour early. I went outside to take some more Railrunner photos and then we took our bags out on the platform to check out the Indian booths. They were caught by surprise at the early arrival and many were still setting up their tables. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] Engines 19 and 72 pulled in at 10:48am and everyone on the train would have plenty of time to walk around for over an hour before the train departed at 12:10. We walked up to our Car 0430 and met our congenial SCA Simon who welcomed us to his car and asked if we needed anything. We took our bags up to Room D, grabbed some water and enjoyed the air conditioning in the near 100 degree temps in ABQ that day. :blink: [/SIZE] I went back outside to take photos of our engines. Met a nice Japanese couple traveling and we each took pictures of the other. They were traveling across the country and had a meeting in New England they were attending. I stood outside to talk to Simon and the other car attendant for a while. He has worked for Amtrak for over 25 years and actually lives in ABQ instead of L.A. Gets a deadhead sometimes when he is off at L.A. but says they many times have called him to work the train on into Chicago when they need more help. He admired my Amtrak hat and pins and we talked about all the problems facing Amtrak and whether the Transcom route would be in the future of the Southwest Chief. He hoped not, but says the funding is not likely to come from New Mexico with its present governor. We were told we should see the LSA to schedule lunch since they had already taken some reservations before they reached ABQ. I managed to secure an early time at 12:30 so all was well.
[SIZE=12pt] We had a couple of young guys who wanted to get something out of their checked bags in the baggage car but with the changing crews and the general policy against that, it did not happen. These two seemed a bit loud and boisterous on the train and were constantly getting ice for their cooler and probably drinking a bit too much. :angry: [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] We left ABQ right on time and were in the diner ready for our Amburgers at 12:30. One of our seatmates was a woman from New Jersey who had been visiting her daughter in ABQ. She would be boarding the Lake Shore in Chicago for her trip to New York area. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] A nice ride through the pueblos north of town before we turned northeast and headed for Lamy. We stayed about 15 minutes down through the area between Lamy and Trinidad and moved at a steady pace sans any freight traffic. We decided to ride up in the Lounge Car for a while since it was not that crowded. We passed SWC #3 just west of Las Vegas and then pulled into Raton for a brief stop before working our way through the pass and down into Trinidad where it was time for supper. I tried the fish special, which was mahi mahi. It tasted fine but was a little dry. Had a baked potato and veggies with salad and roll. Claudia had the steak, which was great as usual. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] We had a longer stop in La Junta as we changed crews. We were running about 15 minutes ahead of schedule so a chance to go into the station to see what it was like. A large ticket counter enclosed in iron rail. Some nice posters and a small seating area. The agent was not at his desk since he needed to be baggage man as well. The Renzenberger van was waiting out front to take our old crew to their respective quarters for the evening. Plenty of BNSF action in the yard on the other side of our train. Some old Santa Fe red and silver units #927 (C41-8W) BNSF 9200 (SD70-AC) among the numerous engines in the yard. Out of town on time at 7:40pm and we sit back and enjoy the pending sunset after Lamar, our last stop in Colorado.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] A brilliant sundown show in the cloud filled sky as we entered Kansas. We asked Simon to put our beds down and we fell off to sleep soon after. Did not even notice the rough tracks in Kansas that night. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Wednesday June 4[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] Woke up the next morning around 5am in Topeka, KS running about half hour late. Went down to take a shower, while Claudia used the shower in the room. Breakfast was at 6:30 and we dined with a nice Amish couple from Kansas who were on their way to Ohio for a wedding. They were traveling with her parents who were riding coach, while they had a roomette. He was a farmer, a harness maker and worked in construction. They had four children who stayed home because of the measles epidemic in the Ohio Amish communities. Turns out the wedding they were attending was only a few miles from our house. We have a large Amish community in our county and the measles problem arose from a group of Amish on a mission trip that returned home with the disease. They would be riding the Lake Shore this evening and getting off in Elyria.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We all had eggs, croissant, and grits, potatoes. We had some great conversations and enjoyed seeing them later in Chicago.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] We stopped west of Kansas City to fuel the engines and change crews before entering the KCS station area. We arrived at 7:20 and left on time at 7:43am. It had rained hard overnight and many of the fields and streams were running full. Some flooding on a few country roads as we crossed Missouri. A real backlog of freight traffic from both NS and BNSF, but our train seemed to keep running and passing trains on sidings. Dispatcher doing a great job of keeping us moving. We heard the announcement that the NPS speakers would be boarding in La Plata and would set up shop in the lounge car, so we went down to hear their programs. Thought we might see Robert Tabern, but the gentlemen said he and his wife were traveling this week. The program pointed out some interesting facts about the towns and countryside we travelled through. We had left LaPlata around 10am and by 11 we were close to Fort Madison and still running on time. When you cross the Des Moines River, you will briefly be in Iowa. We had a stop in Fort Madison so I went to the first coach and walked out on the platform. Lots of NS and BNSF locos sitting at the station and I proceeded to take some photos while we waited. As I tried to cross back over to the train side, one of the conductors came screaming and said “NO NO Stop!!. You must cross the track at the platform near the station”. I said o.k. but everyone had just crossed these same tracks a minute ago. Doesn’t matter you will all have to cross up the track.. Since I was going to my sleeper it really didn’t matter to me, but those people in coach were a bit annoyed they had to walk all the way up to the station, cross the tracks, and then walk all the way back to the rear of the train again. Bureaucracy runs wild again.. :giggle: [/SIZE] We were there for a few more minutes so I talked to Simon a while and then got back on the train on our 0430 car and walked to the lounge where Claudia was waiting.
[SIZE=12pt] Our NPS speakers continued their talk about Fort Madison, the Mississippi River and the small towns in Illinois as we moved onto the large bridge over the river. The role of glaciation on the contours of Illinois landscapes was interesting to Claudia who loves geology. We went to lunch around noon and sat with a father and his son from Canada. They lived near Toronto and would be taking the Lake Shore for Buffalo later this evening. We had the Amburgers, but Claudia tried the hot dog and macaroni and cheese. They were offering any meal on the menu to clear the inventories. Cheese cake for me again. [/SIZE] We dined through Galesburg and moved along toward Princeton. We arrived there around 1:15, just a few minutes late. We continued to stay about 15 minutes late into Mendota but with the padding in the schedule, we arrived into CUS only 1 minute down.
[SIZE=12pt] We thanked Simon for a good trip and wished him well as we pulled our bags down the platform to the Metro Lounge. We checked our luggage into the Red Cap room and were told to be back by 6pm for boarding. We had reserved a 7pm dinner time. Everyone again at the desk was friendly and accommodating. We grabbed a drink and some snacks and then headed out to watch traffic on the river. We saw our Amish couple and parents making their way over to check on the Water Taxi, but there was no boarding across from the station as there usually is. They had mentioned they wanted to go to Navy Pier but did not want to ride the bus. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] It was a bit windy and cool in Chicago so we took a short walk and then went back to sit in the Great Hall and enjoy the sites. A group of men were using a small boom crane to maneuver around the ceiling. This provided the major source of entertainment while we were there. [/SIZE] At 5 PM we returned to the lounge and found a seat in the busy room. The Empire Builder was its usual 9 hours late, but the other trains seemed to be running close to on time. We received a message that the Capitol Ltd would be boarding 15-20 minutes late but hoped to leave on time. At 6:30 the conductor came in to scan tickets and then we were led out the back door to our train. We were in Car 3001 Room B and our car attendant was Carlos. He seemed friendly but proved to be a no-show most of the trip just like the guy we had on 29 coming west last week.
[SIZE=12pt] We mentioned to him that we would be needing to switch to coach in Toledo due to Guest Rewards boundaries. We also mentioned that several of our attendants had arranged for us to stay in our bedroom into Cleveland if there was no one taking our room in TOL. He said he would check with the conductor and let us know. We always agree not to have the beds put down so as to not cause any extra work for our attendant.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] We went to supper at 7 and decided on the steaks. We sat with Katherine and her quiet husband who said very little during the meal. Perhaps he did not feel well. The steaks were very good and we enjoyed the trip across northern Indiana, hoping we would hear good news from Carlos about our Toledo transfer. Not.. :angry: [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We never saw him again the remainder of the evening. We lost more time in Waterloo, Indiana as we sat for a half hour waiting on freight traffic. And we did not have any word on our room so we disembarked in Toledo and walked down to our coach car. It would have been common courtesy to tell us our room would be occupied and that we would need to leave at Toledo. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]As we walked past the station doors we noticed a long line of passengers boarding the coaches. I also heard the new young conductor yelling out our names while directing people to the coach where the other conductor was assigning seats. Seems he had scanned all the people boarding while they were in the Toledo station and our name was the only missing passengers on his manifest. Little did he know we were riding at the front of the train in a sleeper/ :giggle: [/SIZE] He seemed relieved that we were there. We mentioned we were to have lower level seats and he said to tell the other conductor and she will take care of it. She did assign us to the last car where there were several LL seats available and two together.
[SIZE=12pt]Thursday June 5 [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]We left Toledo an hour late and never made up the time, arriving in Cleveland at around 3am. We were fortunate that the rain had stopped and we quickly picked up our checked bags and headed down I-71 for the hour + ride home. Our little cat was glad to see us and we him. More playing and fur rubbing was in order before we could get into bed. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] We had a good time on our latest Amtrak Adventure. Disappointed in the SCA staffs of the Capitol and happy with our staffs on the Southwest Chief. We had very good weather for our travels in New Mexico and Colorado and were able to ride a couple of excursion railroads on my bucket list. Claudia enjoyed the trip to Taos and Durango, but not the altitude problems we experienced at varied times. We experienced good food and didn’t miss much of the amenities that were gone…flowers, papers, etc. Amtrak Guest Rewards worked with us on changing our tickets without any hassle at all. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Now to plot our next trip… :giggle: [/SIZE]