Churchill chiller...

[caravanman]

Hi Folks,

Having recently returned from an early season trip to India, where I was somewhat unprepared for the full extent of the heat, I am now considering the opposite end of the thermometer!

For many years I have had a desire to visit Churchill in Canada, in the winter. I would be content with arriving there in the morning on the train, and leaving that night, which seems an option. I am unused to extreme cold, and wonder what level of protection would be sensible in Churchill in say, February. I don't imagine doing much other than sitting in a cafe and trying to keep warm, but have no experience in winter sports clothing, etc.

As always, I am thinking cheap clothing that I can dump afterwards, as I head down south into the warm embrace of the Southern USA.

Any advice on what would be effective warm clothing would be a big help!

Cheers,

Ed.

 

[Alice]

Hi Ed, What a wonderful trip you are contemplating!

I'm strictly a warm weather person but went to Alaska one winter to see the northern lights. They were well worth it, as were other things, like the sun barely above the horizon at noon, the racks of fish stored on clotheslines outside, the frozen rivers had ripples like when they are liquid, the moose calves that came between the car and the cabin when I went out to see the light show, etc. So I recommend you pick a time with lots of sunspot action and then spend a little more time up there, if not on the Hudson Bay, at least pretty far north and someplace with a dark night sky.

As to clothing, I layered everything I owned in polar fleece and wool. It was too bulky to carry so I wore it, probably looking pretty silly at the airport in warm and sunny California. I mean I wore poly-pro long underwear plus polar fleece long underwear plus army surplus wool pants that I'd shrunk to make them thicker plus polar fleece long skirt. And similar on top. I had a genuine mink hat that was real ratty and very warm. I wore wool socks then polar fleece then boots with a furry lining. The gloves were interesting because they didn't give traction on my pushrims, so I kept taking them off to push a few feet, then tucked my hands in my armpits, then pushed a little further. I still have and wear the polar fleece. In Alaska, I was in the car a fair bit, and took a plane tour, but also spent considerable time outside. It was cold enough that both cameras froze (this was film days) unless I kept them tucked against my skin, unfortunately, that meant no Milky Way or Aurora Borealis photos because the cameras wouldn't work when left on the tripod. Nonetheless, I was toasty warm except for my hands whenever I took off the gloves. To translate, you'll need multiple layers that cover every inch of your skin, the new high-tech fibers like polar fleece really work the best, and insulate your camera, too.

I used to sail on San Francisco Bay, which is cold, and that is where some of the clothing came from. Some of the polar fleece is from sporting goods or hunting stores, but most of it I got on prior winter trips to Canada. It is difficult to buy good cold-weather or wet-weather clothing where I live, you have to go to a specialized store. But every place, even Walmart and Target, carry such things at reasonable prices in places where everybody needs it. I would think you could take any warm clothes you already own (including rags you could abandon after use), buy anything else at a thrift store in Winnipeg, and finally visit a regular retailer if necessary.

Have a great time, you are sure getting around in your retirement!

 

[Everydaymatters]

Hi Eddie. That sounds like a wonderful trip. One many of us think about, but never actually to. Having lived in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan as well as Northernost Illinois, I found that wind can be as big of a problem as the cold. I tried many different coats; Thinsulate, Goretex, and anything new that came out. Thinsulate and Goretex are ok at blocking the wind, but they don't block the cold.

I find that down is the best. A good down coat and a layer or two of wool sweaters or polar fleece under them would be warm. Avoid down coats that are overly bulky. They're not practical. Silk is good for extra warmth without the bulk. I have had good results from buying at Wintersilks and Cabelas and LLBean. REI has been recommended, but I have never tried them.

The only boots that I've had that kept my feet warm were Sorrels with the liners. They last forever and I think I bought mine at Blaine's Farm and Fleet. I'm not sure they still carry them.

Have a wonderful time and post lots of pictures.

 

[Bob Dylan]

Hi Eddie! Looks like wanderlust has struck again! Just can't keep you on the Island!

Alice and Betty gave you some great advice, so I'll just add that you would want to have a ski mask and a couple of scarves ( synthetic works but wool is best)for your outdoor time!

Sunglasses, and believe it or not, sunscreen, also come in handy for the glare and to keep from getting sunburned by the reflection off the snow!

I would think one day isn't enough to spend in Churchill,( but two days is plenty, its Very Cold and Isolated there!) as you'll want a good chance to see the reason most tourists make the trek from Winnipeg ( aka Winterpeg)to Churchill, ie the Mooches, er Polar Bears, and the Night Skies as Alice said!

You can check out the train schedules on via.ca for the Polar Bear Express from Winnipeg, or you can take a pricey flight, but the train is more fun.

Expect prices to be high since everything has to be imported, and since Churchill isn't that large a place, lodging can be scarce and pricey for bare bones places! Fortunately, currently the Loonie is weak against the major World Currencies, but might change by the time you arrive!

If you are coming to the Colonies during this journey, Texas is a good place to thaw out in the Winter! It would be great to see you again!

 

[caravanman]

Hi,

Thanks all for the good advice. I think Jan/Feb time would not be good for polar bears, but the "Northern Lights" would be a possibility if I stayed overnight and got lucky. I have been imagining this visit for more than 10 years, and as with the India jaunt... if I don't go soon, it 'aint gonna happen.

A knee jerk reaction to being back in Nottingham, so it may not materialize... my credit card is cowering in fear of more debt too!

Cheers,

Ed

PS Texas sounds just the antidote to snow and ice

 

[gaspeamtrak]

Here is a tip for you. Check out "VIA'S" Tuesday sales for the trip. They start at about 07:00 our time and finish at 23:59. You will get some real deals. try and get the fairs for both ways if you can . you may have to juggle your dates around. Good luck and let us know how you do...

 

[oregon pioneer]

Hi Ed,

Yep, sounds like an absolutely wonderful trip, and I look forward to the reports when it's all said and done.

I live in a place where it can get to 40 below (note that I said "can." With climate change, that seems to be a thing of the past). My usual practice is to layer, as others have said. I think if you can find a windproof outer layer that fits over about three layers of fleece (easily found in thrift stores these days), you are good to go. Don't forget the bottom half: you'll need a couple layers of long underwear, hopefully one of them fleece, and a pair of baggy pants to wear over them. Windproof is good here, too. For a hat, get one of the wool or fleece ski hats (or tuques, as they call them in Canada) with a fleece lining -- that helps keep the wind off your ears! If you haven't already tried one, you might like it so much you will wear it for outings back home. Mitts are warmer than gloves, so unless you need manual dexterity, just get a pair of cheap, thick, insulated nylon ski mittens.

Your biggest expense will be the boots. As others have said, snow-pac boots with fleece liners are absolutely the best! But if they are pretty much unaffordable for a short trip, you might look at some of these alternatives at discount outdoor supplier Sierra Trading Post. If it's really that cold, waterproofing is not necessary, the snow will not melt, LOL. The most important thing for warm feet is that you have plenty of room for thick, warm socks. DO NOT buy socks with any cotton or acrylic in them. These fibers don't wick moisture, and your feet will get cold quickly (dangerous at those temperatures). My preferred socks are always a blend of wool and polyester (60-80% wool is good).

When it comes right down to it, you can take the cold for a short while if you just have some good long underwear beneath your jeans, thick socks inside boots that are not tight over them, and a couple of extra layers with wind-proofing over your torso and arms. Add a good hat with ear protection (and a scarf to pull over your chin and nose if windy), plus mittens or ski gloves, and you are good to walk from the train station to the cafe.

Let us know how it works out (photos please!).

 

[jebr]

When it comes right down to it, you can take the cold for a short while if you just have some good long underwear beneath your jeans, thick socks inside boots that are not tight over them, and a couple of extra layers with wind-proofing over your torso and arms. Add a good hat with ear protection (and a scarf to pull over your chin and nose if windy), plus mittens or ski gloves, and you are good to walk from the train station to the cafe.

I will second this. As long as everything is covered, you're not going to instantly freeze the moment you step outside. If you're just going to be outside for a few minutes at a time, a good winter coat with a sweatshirt and t-shirt, a good hat that covers the ears, a scarf if needed, jeans and long underwear, and thick socks with boots will hold someone over when going from the station to the cafe. Heck, most mornings here (and it does get down to -20+ here at least a couple days most winters) I'll just wear jeans, my general work clothes, and a coat and race into work from the parking lot (which is only 15-30 seconds.) Not that I'm recommending this strategy (though it's fun to feel your nose hairs freeze.)

By the way, if you do the trip and are up in Winnipeg over a weekend, I'd be interested in meeting up in Winnipeg - it's a bit of a drive but not terrible, so long as the weather holds out.

 

[lyke99]

Hey Ed,

Although I've recently written here about my trip to Churchill this past July, I made the trip in late March/early April back in 1997. The winter is definitely the off-season for Churchill - only about 800-1000 year-round residents these days. As a native Minnesotan who sees some similar temperatures to Churchill (although we get them for a few days rather than a few weeks) I can say the others have given some good advice.

I'd say a base layer of silk long underwear is a good place to start. Thick or fleece-lined denim or wool trousers, wool socks, and decent boots (leather hikers are fine, mid-calf height snow boots would be better) on the bottom. Layers on the top and a coat with some windproofing, touque, and leather with wool or wool-like poly insulation mittens that come a few inches above the wrist (we call them chopper mitts here in Minnesota).

Polar bears can be in and around Churchill at any time of the year - I had to hang out in a local store for a bit while one was corralled during my 1997 trip.

Not sure what you're thinking for accommodations, but can say from experience that the berths and the Cabin for 1 are worth the price of admission.

Good travels and Cheers!

 

[caravanman]

Hi,

Thanks all for the great information and advice. I honestly don't expect to do much in Churchill, except try to keep warm, indoors... Seems good to have some extra clothing layers available, I can't begin to imagine the outcome if the train breaks down in winter!

I would expect to at least have a sleeping berth each way on the train. I did enjoy the Canadian cross country in a solo cabin a few years back at an "express sale" bargain price. (Finances are a bit tighter these days.)

I always liked the idea of arriving at Fargo, or similar, and getting a bus up to Winnipeg to visit Churchill... There was a bus service which got cancelled a few years ago... Is there any option for public transport accross that border nowadays?

Jebr, would be happy to meet up, if that can work out. With reference to the above, how would you feel about me coming to your area, and going together to Winnipeg?

The plan is just in it's early stages, it may not get off the ground yet, and my credit card may expect some respite too !

Cheers,

Ed.

 

[Bob Dylan]

Eddie: booking a Section Berth ,instead of a Cabin or Bedroom, should save you money. Currently the Loonie is very weak against the World's Major Currencies, but of course that can change.

Also, Canada has a scheme that will rebate the Goods and Service Tax to Tourists, but I'm not current on the details, I'm sure you can Google it up.

Lastly, there currently is no cross Border transportation between Winnipeg and the US, but VIA has a plan to reroute the Canadian on the Southern Transcon as far as Winnipeg through Thunder Bay so riding the Canadian from Toronto or even flying in to the Twin Cities and going up to Thunder Bay ( Highway 61 Revisited!) via Duluth and then taking the Canadian to Winnipeg might also be an option.

Coach tickets on the Canadian can be dirt cheap, especially in the Winter, I saw a fare of $198 CDN from Vancouver to Toronto a couple of Tuesdays, so if you could stand to ride in Coach for a Couple of nights, this could also really save you some money. ( you still get blankets and pillows in Coach and there is a snack bar ( and Diner in season!)and Dome Car just for Coach passengers on the Canadian.

Worth consideration in pricey Canada! ( India its not!)

 

[caravanman]

Hi Jim,

Thanks for the quick response!

Toronto to Winnipeg is not the most scenic section, and I have seen that portion before... The coach seats option for that does not appeal much... I must be getting old! I will keep an eye on all the fares, esp. the Tuesday sales. I might just fly into Winnipeg at the start, that looks the most sensible and economic option at this point. (Not that such things as good sense have been features of my travels thusfar).

Cheers,

Ed